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BY  ROBERT  URIE   JACOB 


(i"ii:!i, 


lUlIttU 


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-a 


LIBRARY 

OF  THE 

University  of  California. 


GIFT    OF 


[  l^>^-^ 'Jat-^JL 'v,^^^=9yC(3^r 

Class 


^ 


WE   ENTERED   THROUGH    THE  GATE   OF   JUSTICE. 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT 

Tne  Story  of  a 

Mediterranean 

Cruise 


BY 

ROBERT  URIE  JACOB 


ILLUSTRATED 


THE  JOHN  C.  WINSTON  CO. 

PHILADELPHIA 


OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 


\\ 


3 


^  Copyright  1907,  by 
Robert  Urie  Jacob. 


Half-tones  made    by 
The  Photo-Chromotype  Engraving  Co. 
Philadelphia,  Pa. 


PREFACE. 

"  k  Trip  to  the  Orient,  the  Story  of  a  Mediterranean 
J'Y  Cruise,"  by  Robert  Urie  Jacob,  has  been  written 
at  the  request  of  fellow-travelers  who  did  not 
have  time  to  take  notes  by  the  way. 

One  said,  "Do  not  write  a  guide  book  nor  a  love  story, 
but  a  simple  narrative  that  will  recall  the  incidents  and 
delightful  experiences  of  the  tour."  Following  these 
suggestions,  but  with  many  misgivings,  the  author  has 
undertaken  and  completed  the  work,  assisted  in  the 
editing  and  proof-reading  by  Miss  Ruth  Collins,  of  the 
Drexel  Institute,  and  by  Miss  Anna  C.  Kauffman. 

An  interesting  feature  of  the  book  is  the  large  number 
of  illustrations  made  from  artistic  photographs,  all  of 
which  have  been  kindly  contributed  by  amateur  photog- 
raphers. It  contains  nearly  two  hundred  illustrations  of 
views  or  incidents  in  Funchal,  Granada,  Algiers,  Malta, 
Athens,  Constantinople,  Jerusalem,  Cairo,  Luxor,  Naples, 
and  Nice,  reproduced  from  photographs  taken  by  Mr. 
L.  O.  Smith,  Rev.  G.  B.  Burn  wood,  Mr.  Charles  Louis 
Sicarde,  Mr.  Franklin  D.  Edmunds,  Mr.  Roberts  Lc- 
Boutellier,  Mrs.  Charles  S.  Crosman,  Miss  M.  Florence 

(iii) 


207385 


IV 


PREFACE. 


Pannebaker,  Mr.  Walter  F.  Price,  Mr.  S.  L.  Schumo, 
Mr.  George  C.  Darling,  Mr.  Howard  E.  Pepper,  Mr. 
John  W.  Converse,  Mr.  C.  Edwin  Webb,  and  Mr.  Edwin 
Alban  Bailey. 

The  story  was  intended  specially  for  voyagers  who 
have  visited  the  same  places,  but  it  may  be  almost  equally 
interesting  to  those  who  are  planning  a  similar  trip.  And 
those  who  must  stay  at  home  may  in  these  pages  be  able 
to  look  through  another's  eyes  at  the  places  described. 

If  the  book  should  in  any  slight  way  deepen  the  pleasant 
memories  of  those  who  have  made  the  trip,  or  if  it  should 
give  pleasure  to  those  who  must  picture  those  scenes  only 
in  their  imagination,  the  author  will  feel  that  his  effort 
has  not  been  in  vain. 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  ^AGE. 

I.    On   the   Ocean    i 

11.      FUNCHAL    10 

III.  Gibraltar    24 

IV.  Granada  and  the  Alhambra 38 

V.     The  City  of  Algiers  60 

VI.     The  Island  of  Malta  82 

VII.     Athens  and  the  Acropolis  97 

VIII.     Constantinople  and  Santa  Sophia 128 

IX.    The  Selamlik  and  the  Treasury 154 

X.    From  the  Bosporus  to  Palestine 179 

XI.    Jerusalem     199 

XII.    The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  227 

(V) 


vi  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER.  PAGB- 

XIII.  Cairo  and  the  Pyramids  257 

XIV.  Luxor  and  Karnak   296 

XV.  On  the  Nile 327 

XVI.  Naples  and  Pompeii 353 

XVII.  Nice  and  Mentone 378 


CHAPTER  I. 
ON  THE  OCEAN. 

HAVE    you    decided   to  go?"    inquired    my  friend. 
Before  us  on  the  table  lay  an  illustrated  booklet 
containing    the    prospectus  of  a    cruise    to    the 
Mediterranean.     Its  contents  had  been  under  considera- 
tion for  some  days. 

"Yes,"  I  answered,  "I  will  write  to-day  to  secure 
state  room  accommodations  for  our  party.  Neverthe- 
less I  am  not  quite  sure  that  it  is  wise  to  take  the  trip. " 

"Why?" 

"For  two  reasons.  First,  are  seventy  days  long 
enough  to  make  a  cruise  of  nearly  fourteen  thousand 
miles  and  visit  so  many  places?  Second,  with  five 
hundred  passengers  will  there  not  be  a  crowd? " 

"Well,  those  doubts  never  troubled  me.  Seventy 
days  is  all  that  can  be  spared  from  my  business,  and 
much  may  be  seen  in  that  time.  As  to  the  number  of 
passengers,  every  steamer  carries  its  full  complement. 
At  any  rate,  you  are  going,  so  think  no  more  of  your 
doubts.     You  will  probably  forget  that  you  had  any." 

So  it  was  that  at  seven  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the 
fifth  of  February,  when  the  steamship  Moltke  left  her 
dock  at  New  York,  we  stood  among  the  passengers 
lined  along  her  rail.  The  hawsers  had  been  cast  off, 
whistles  were  blowing,  and  tugs  were  puffing  in  their 
efforts  to  push  and  pull  the  huge  vessel  into  the  stream 

(i) 


2  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

At  that  early  hour  of  a  wintry  day  there  was  no  crowd 
fining  the  pier,  no  sea  of  faces  looking  upward,  no  wav- 
ing of  handkerchiefs  and  flags,  the  usual  sight  when  a 
great  liner  departs.  The  wharf,  cheerless  and  dismal, 
appeared  to  be  almost  deserted.  Its  only  occupants 
were  a  few  scattered  onlookers  shivering  in  the  cold, 
and  the  officials  and  employees  whose  duties  required 
their  presence.  But  on  the  Moltke,  in  spite  of  the  chill 
air  and  the  gray  morning,  all  were  animated  and  eager. 
The  band  played  the  "Belle  of  New  York"  while  the 
ship  was  being  warped  into  the  stream,  and  the  "Amer- 
ican Patrol"  while  it  was  steaming  down  the  river. 
The  tourists,  alert  and  expectant,  viewed  the  panorama 
of  the  city  as  the  tall  buildings  were  brought  into  strong 
relief  against  the  brightening  sky,  saw  Liberty's  cap 
reflect  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun,  then  watched  the 
incoming  steamers,  and  the  forts  and  lighthouses  that 
seemed  to  approach  and  pass.  Just  outside  of  Sandy 
Hook  our  pilot  with  a  satchel  of  letters  descended  the 
rope  ladder  to  the  waiting  tug,  and  soon  afterwards  the 
low-lying  shores  became  dimmer  and  dimmer  until  they 
disappeared  from  view. 

The  farewells  had  been  exchanged  on  the  previous 
day,  when  the  promenade  decks  and  saloons  of  the 
steamer  were  thronged  with  passengers,  friends,  and 
curious  visitors,  and  the  after-deck  was  encumbered 
with  piles  of  baggage.  Then,  the  tables  in  the  main 
saloon  were  filled  with  boxes  of  flowers,  baskets  of 
fruit,  packages  of  confectionery,  and  bundles  of  steamer 
letters  marked  to  be  opened  on  certain  days  after  sailing. 

Before  the  departure  we  had  met  the  deck  steward 


(3) 


4  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

and  with  his  assistance  had  located  our  steamer  chairs; 
for  in  the  places  then  selected  the  chairs  were  to  remain 
throughout  the  long  cruise.  We  had  also  interviewed 
the  chief  steward,  had  obtained  from  him  a  passenger 
list,  and  had  arranged  that  our  party  should  be  seated 
together  at  one  of  the  side  tables  in  the  dining  saloon. 

The  passenger  list  contained  four  hundred  and  fifty- 
three  names.  Among  these  were  thirteen  preceded  by 
the  title  Reverend,  thirteen  by  Doctor,  and  a  number 
by  military  or  other  titles  of  honor.  Every  state  in 
the  Union  and  several  provinces  of  Canada  had  repre- 
sentatives on  the  list. 

During  the  first  three  days'  sailing  a  storm,  which  had 
been  predicted  as  approaching  from  the  west  when  we 
left  New  York,  followed  but  did  not  overtake  us.  We 
could  not,  however,  remain  on  deck  as  long  as  desired, 
for  the  wind  was  chilly  and  the  ocean  rough.  But 
each  morning,  laden  with  heavy  wraps  and  rugs,  we 
sought  our  steamer  chairs.  Then,  settled  comfortably 
under  the  wraps  and  rugs  carefully  tucked  around  us 
by  the  attentive  steward,  we  defied  the  cold  for  an  hour 
or  two  and  inhaled  the  invigorating  air. 

As  the  vessel  made  her  way  southward,  the  tempera- 
ture moderated  and  the  sea  became  smooth.  By  the 
time  the  stormy  weather  had  passed,  the  tourists, 
accustomed  to  ship  motion  and  ship  life,  spent  most  of 
their  time  upon  the  decks.  Then,  to  increase  socia- 
bility and  make  the  time  pass  pleasantly,  self-appointed 
committees  met  and  laid  plans  for  card  parties,  lectures, 
concerts,  and  dances. 

On  the   fifth  night  out  the  southern  side  of  the  prom- 


ON  THE  OCEAN.  5 

enade  deck  was  curtained  with  awnings,  cleared  of 
chairs,  decorated  with  flags  and  Chinese  lanterns,  and 
brilliantly,  illuminated  with  clusters  of  electric  lights, 
for  an  impromptu  dance.  Music  was  furnished  by 
the  band,  and  Father  Neptune  kindly  kept  his  waves  in 
subjection,  although  an  occasional  roll  caused  some 
unsteadiness  in  the  movements  of  the  waltzers. 

By  that  time  we  knew  many  of  our  fellow- voyagers. 
For,  as  we  had  similar  plans,  a  common  destination,  and 
the  same  pleasures  in  anticipation,  we  readily  made 
friendships.  We  chatted  around  the  table  during  the 
luncheon  and  dinner  hours,  took  a  hand  in  euchre  with 
men  in  the  smoking  room,  or  a  place  at  whist  with  the 
ladies  in  the  music  room,  and  exchanged  pleasantries 
and  experiences  with  our  neighbors  while  occupying  the 
steamer  chairs.  Friendships  grew  rapidly  under  these 
favorable  conditions.  Sometimes  chats  with  new  ac- 
quaintances which  began  in  a  mirthful  way  changed  to 
talks  of  a  serious  kind  as  some  spoken  word  recalled 
home  and  friends  left  behind,  and  conversations  when 
prolonged  became  almost  confidential  in  their  character. 

One  afternoon  while  we  were  sipping  the  tea  which 
had  been  served,  a  lady  who  occupied  a  chair  next  ours, 
said: — "I  enjoy  so  much  my  hours  in  the  gymnasium. 
Each  morning  I  take  a  gallop  on  the  electric  horse  and 
get  my  blood  into  circulation.  The  first  day  I  felt 
rather  timid  in  the  saddle  when  the  custodian  asked, 
'Fast  or  slow?'  so  I  said.  'Start  slow,'  but  I  quickly  had 
him  increase  the  speed,  for  I'mused  to  horseback  riding." 

"We're  from  Texas,  you  know,"  spoke  up  a  young 
woman  sitting  close  by. 


6  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"You  should  practice  riding  on  the  electric  camel  in 
preparation  for  our  trip  into  Egypt,"  I  suggested. 

"We  have;  we've  tried  all  the  arm  and  foot  move- 
ments and  have  been  thumped  on  the  back,  and  on  the 
chest,  and  even  on  our  heads,"  responded  the  young 
woman.  "But  I  wished  for  a  rowing  machine.  Row- 
ing is  my  favorite  exercise. " 

"Before  we  left  home  we  all  had  many  misgivings 
about  this  trip,"  remarked  the  elder  sister.  "We 
knew  how  large  these  steamships  really  are,  but  yet 
we  had  visions  of  many  possible  discomforts  during  so 
long  a  journey.  We  disHked  tours  in  sleeping  cars  and 
couldn't  realize  the  difference  between  traveling  in  cars 
and  in  ships.  But  our  stateroom  here  is  very  cozy  with 
the  wardrobes  and  the  racks  for  our  books  and  our 
pictures. " 

.  "And  it  seems  homelike,  too,"  added  the  other. 
^  The  life  on  shipboard  was  to  many  a  novel  experience. 
In  the  mornings  we  were  roused  from  our  slumbers  by 
the  notes  of  a  bugle.  The  first  day  when  the  reveille 
sounded  I  looked  at  my  watch.  It  was  a  quarter  to 
eight .  ' '  Must  I  get  up  ? "  I  thought .  Then  remembering 
that  the  breakfast  hour  was  from  eight  to  ten,  I  closed 
my  eyes.  But  soon  there  came  a  gentle  tapping  at  the 
door.  "Who's  there?"  I  asked.  "Your  bath  is  ready, 
sir."  The  words  were  English  but  the  accents  were 
plainly  German.  That  call  was  more  imperative  than 
the  bugler's,  for  I  might  miss  my  invigorating  salt  water 
dip  if  I  did  not  quickly  respond.  After  a  breakfast  of 
fruit,  cereals,  chops,  and  coffee  we  went  to  the  deck  for 
a  tramp.     "Ten  rounds  of  the  promenade  deck  make 


(7) 


8  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

a  mile,"  said  my  room-mate  consulting  his  pedometer. 
Then  we  strolled  to  the  library  for  books,  but  the  books 
lay  unread  in  our  laps  when  we  were  seated  in  our  steamer 
chairs;  for  how  could  our  minds  be  fixed  on  the  story 
when  the  real  life  before  us  was  more  interesting? 
The  Professor  who  was  to  lecture  during  the  trip  stepped 
by  with  rapid  tread,  nodding  as  he  passed.  The  min- 
ister from  Iowa  who  was  to  preach  on  the  Sabbath 
stopped  to  exchange  greetings,  a  friend  dropped  into 
a  vacant  chair  for  a  talk.  Then  the  music  stands  were 
set  up  and  the  band  assembled  around  them  and  for  an 
hour  we  listened  to  selections  from  Wagner  and  Bach, 
varied  with  the  martial  strains  of  Sousa  or  the  melodies 
of  Foster.  The  stewards  brought  out  a  table,  filled 
it  with  dishes,  and  served  bouillon  and  biscuit,  while 
near  by  a  kodak  carrier  was  snapping  a  picture. 

On  the  ship  there  were  many  places  of  interest. 
When  in  need  of  exercise  we  visited  the  gymnasium  on 
the  upper  deck,  and  when  desirous  of  a  change  in  cook- 
ing we  resorted  to  the  grill  room  where  the  white  clad 
cook  broiled  chops  in  our  sight  over  a  bright  fire.  Im- 
pelled by  curiosity,  we  explored  the  vacant  steerage,  and 
with  the  chief  engineer  descended  the  iron  ladder  to  the 
depths  below  to  investigate  the  mysteries  of  the  engine 
and  fire  rooms.  Sometimes  from  the  breezy  fore -deck 
we  scanned  the  horizon  for  the  ships  that  rarely  ap- 
peared, and  sometimes  sought  a  snug  corner  aft  and 
watched  the  swift -winged  gulls,  the  quivering  log  line, 
the  smoke  clouds  and  their  shadows,  or  the  widening 
streak  of  water  disturbed  by  the  revolving  screw. 

"How  rapidly  the  week  has  passed,"  said  a  friend  on 


ON  THE  OCEAN.  9 

the  evening  of  the  twelfth  of  February.  Listen!  One, 
two,  three,  four,  "  as  the  ship's  bell  rang  out  four  strokes. 
"Four  bells,  that's  six  o'clock.  We  have  half  an  hour 
to  dress  for  dinner." 

When  we  entered  the  brilliantly  illuminated  dining 
saloon  that  evening  a  bust  of  Lincoln  was  on  the  plat- 
form, and  the  room  was  decorated  with  the  American 
colors.  Some  one  had  remembered  Lincoln's  birthday, 
though  many  of  the  passengers  had  forgotten  the  date. 
A  picture  of  Lincoln  with  the  inscription,  "In  commem- 
oration of  President  Abraham  Lincoln's  birthday," 
was  engraved  on  the  covers  of  the  souvenir  menus. 
The  dinner  was  an  unusually  good  one,  and  the  seven 
selections  rendered  by  the  orchestra  during  the  courses 
were  appropriate  for  the  day . 

After  dinner  a  man  who  had  been  personally  ac- 
quainted with  the  martyred  President  delivered  an 
interesting  memorial  address.  His  final  words  had  just 
been  said  when  an  announcement  was  made  which 
caused  a  thrill  of  expectancy  and  sent  us  hurriedly  to 
the  deck:  " Land  is  in  sight ! " 


CHAPTER  II. 
FUNCHAL. 

THAT  is  the  island  of  Madeira,"  said  the  captain, 
pointing  to  a  dark  mass  dimly  seen  against  the 
horizon.  "We  are  now  nearly  twenty -eight  hun- 
dred miles  southeast  of  New  York.  " 

We  had  been  sailing  for  seven  days  with  only  a  vast 
expanse  of  ocean  in  view,  and  so  w^e  longed  for  a  sight 
of  land  and  eagerly  looked  forward  to  the  arrival  at  our 
first  port.  As  we  approached  the  island  the  form  of  a 
mountain  became  clear  in  the  star-light ;  then  the 
twinkling  of  lights  at  its  base  revealed  the  location  of  a 
city.  When  within  half  a  mile  of  the  shore,  the  water 
in  the  harbor  became  too  shallow  for  large  vessels,  so 
the  screw  propellor  of  the  Moltke  ceased  revolving  and 
the  ship  came  to  anchor. 

"May  we  go  ashore  to-night?"  many  asked. 

"Certainty,  there  is  no  objection,"  replied  the  cap- 
tain. 

A  number  of  the  passengers,  eager  to  see  the  attrac- 
tions of  the  place,  and  too  impatient  to  wait  until 
morning,  were  rowed  across  the  dark  water  to  the  pier. 
In  the  city,  Funchal,  we  found  that  at  so  late  an  hour 
the  main  attractions  were  gambling  places,  dance  halls, 
and  lotteries,  the  owners  of  which  were  greedy  for 
American  money.  The  main  Casino,  in  the  midst  of  a 
beautiful   garden,    was   brilliantly    illuminated   and   its 

do) 


(ll) 


12 


.4   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


halls  were  filled  with  well  dressed  people.  Some  of 
the  party  who  had  placed  their  silver  on  the  tables  of 
chance  showed  on  their  return  to  the  steamer  handfuls 
of  coins  that  fortune  had  brought  them;  others  who 
had  made  similar  experiments  were  silent  as  to  the 
results. 

"We  should  have  read  up  the  Madeiras  before  leaving 
home,"  said  one  of  the  tourists  at  our  early  breakfast 


IT    IS    NOT    RAPID    TRANSIT. 


the  morning  after  our  arrival,  "but  we  were  too  busv 
then  with  other  things.  While  you  were  ashore  last 
night  I  found  in  the  library  an  old  English  book  of 
travel  that  gave  some  information  about  the  islands." 
"Share  it  with  us  while  the  stewards  are  bringing  the 
coffee,  won't  you?" 


14  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"  I  made  very  few  notes,  "  she  replied.  "As  we  are  .to 
be  in  Funchal  but  one  day,  1  skipped  the  statistics  of 
population,  hotels,  exports,  and  histor>^  But  here 
are  some  facts  just  as  I  jotted  them  down: 

"  'The  Madeira  Islands,  about  six  hundred  miles  west 
of  Gibraltar,  were  settled  by  the  Portuguese  and  are 
owned  by  Portugal. 

"  'The  principal  and  only  town  large  enough  to  be 
called  a  city  is  Funchal,  situated  on  the  southern  side 
of  Madeira  on  the  slope  of  a  hill. 

"  'The  city  has  an  equable  climate.  Mild  sunshine, 
gentle  ocean  breezes,  and  protection  from  harsh  winds 
by  mountains,  give  to  Funchal  throughout  the  whole 
year  the  temperature  of  England  in  the  month  of  May. 

"  'The  island  is  very  mountainous,  gashed  with  many 
deep  gorges  which  extend  in  from  the  sea.  The  streets 
in  the  city  are  paved,  but  the  roads  in  the  country  are 
impassable  for  wagons.  Merchandise  is  carried  on 
pack  mules  or  in  ox-drags.  Horses  are  rarely  seen  and 
carriages  are  few.  Quaint  vehicles  are  used  in  their 
stead  for  the  conveyance  of  passengers.' 

"How  odd  these  vehicles  are  we  shall  find  out  when 
we  land.  We  shall  have  a  busy  day.  I  am  eager  to 
start." 

It  was  yet  early  when  we  ascended  the  deck,  but  the 
sun  was  shining  brightly.  Funchal  appeared  like  a 
beautiful  picture.  Overhead  was  the  azure  sky  of  a 
summer  day;  before  us,  stirred  by  a  gentle  breeze, 
glistened  in  blue  and  silver  the  waters  of  the  harbor; 
on  the  curving  shore,  tier  above  tier,  reflecting  the  sun- 
shine, rose  the  white  and  3^ellow  stone  buildings  of  the 


FUNCHAL. 


IS 


city  surmounted  by  roofs  of  red  tiling;  above  the  city, 
white  cottages  amidst  a  dense  foliage  of  green  shrubbery 
dotted   the   steep   hillsides,    and   beyond,   but   seeming 


THE    WOMEN    WERE    WASHING    CLOTHES. 

very  near,  higher  mountains  formed  a  dark  and  appro- 
priate background. 

"The  steam  tenders  are  ready  to  carry  you  to  the 
shore,"  announced  one  of  the  officials,  interrupting  our 
survey  of  the  picture. 

We  descended  the  long  ladder  of  fifty  steps  from  the 
deck  of  the  steamer  to  the  bobbing  barge  in  the  water 


i6 


.4   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


below,  and  were  soon  landed  on  the  stone  steps  of  the 
breakwater,  which,  extending  out  to  a  picturesque  crag, 
protects  and  partially  encloses  the  harbor.  There,  in 
place  of  cabs,  a  hundred  low  sleds  with  canopy  tops  and 
cushioned  seats  were  in  readiness  to  convev  us  on  a 


IN    THE    SLED    READY    TO    START. 

sight-seeing  excursion  through  the  city.  This  ride 
in  ox-drags  was  a  novel  experience.  Each  sled  w^as 
dragged  by  two  bullocks,  driven  without  reins  by  loud- 
voiced  natives  who,  with  frequent  yells  and  prodding 
sticks,  urged  on  their  teams.  The  drivers  carried  bunches 
of  greasy  rags  which  they  occasionally  threw  underneath 


PUNCH  AL.  17 

the  sled-runners  as  a  lubricant  to  diminish  the  friction 
of  their  movement  over  the  stone-paved  streets. 

The  sights  in  the  city  were  strange.  The  shops  on 
the  narrow  streets  were  plain  and  unattractive,  and  the 
signs  unintelligible.  The  windows  of  the  lower  floors 
of  the  dwellings  were  grated  with  iron  bars  like  a  prison. 
Beneath  a  bridge  over  a  walled  ravine  that  kept  a 
rushing  stream  within  bounds  in  the  rainy  season,  women 
washed  clothes  and  spread  them  on  rocks  to  dry.  In 
the  public  square  the  women  carrying  water  from  the 
fountain  or  chatting  on  the  sidewalks  appeared  to  have 
little  curiosity  regarding  the  visitors  in  their  city,  and 
the  men,  lounging  on  the  steps  of  the  fountain,  cast  but 
careless  glances  in  our  direction ;  only  the  boys  stopped 
their  play  to  gaze  awhile  at  the  passing  strangers. 

"This  plodding  team  seems  fitting  in  such  a  peculiar 
place,"  remarked  one  of  the  quartet  in  our  sled.  "Al- 
though it  is  not  rapid  transit,  it  is  comfortable.  But 
look,  there  is  a  more  luxurious  mode  of  traveling." 
As  he  spoke  he  pointed  to  two  Portuguese  bearing 
suspended  on  a  pole  a  handsome  hammock  in  which 
a  lady  reclined  languidly. 

At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  we  changed  from  the 
slowly  moving  sleds  to  the  car  of  a  cog-wheel  railway, 
which  carried  us  up  the  steep  incline.  The  speed  of  the 
car  was  not  much  greater  than  that  of  the  ox-team.  As 
we  ascended,  scenes  of  beauty  opened  around  us.  Cot- 
tages built  on  terraces  were  covered  with  blooming  bou- 
guain-villea  or  climbing  roses.  Patches  of  cultivated  land 
were  filled  with  sugar  cane,  banana  plants,  and  orange 
trees.     Palms  and  cacti    appeared    in    many    varieties. 


8  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

Flowers  bloomed  on  every  side.  Geraniums,  fuschias, 
and  heliotropes  were  of  enormous  size.  Camelias,  lilies, 
and  nasturtiums  grew  in  profusion.  Children  from  the 
suburban  cottages  ran  alongside  the  moving  car,  merrily- 
casting  roses,  heliotropes,  geraniums,  and  camelias 
through  the  open  windows  into  our  laps,  and  the  tourists, 
pleased  with  the  floral  offerings,  in  return  tossed  pennies 
to  the  running  children. 

When  we  alighted  from  the  car,  young  peddlers,  some 
bright -faced  and  clean,  others  ugly  and  dirty,  offered 
flowers  and  trinkets  for  sale  and  beggars  asked  for  money. 
But  our  pennies  were  exhausted  and  we  were  glad  that 
peddlers  and  paupers  were  not  permitted  to  follow  us 
into  the  hotel  grounds. 

"Here  you  may  lunch,"  said  the  guide,  as  we  entered 
a  hotel  on  the  mountain,  "and  get  pure  Madeira  wine. 
The  wine  which  is  made  in  this  island  was  at  one  time 
its  most  noted  production;  but  some  -thirty  years  ago 
insects  and  disease  so  infested  the  vines  that  many 
vineyards  were  destroyed  and  the  quantity  of  wine  now 
made  is  not  so  large  as  in  former  years.  " 

After  having  luncheon  and  tasting  the  well  known 
wine  in  its  purity  on  a  broad  piazza  overlooking  a  beau- 
tiful tropical  garden,  we  wandered  through  an  interest- 
ing old  church  and  convent  near  by,  and  then  strolled 
around  a  mountain  pathway  from  which,  as  the  guide 
said,  "views  most  grand"  might  be  seen.  As  we 
advanced  on  our  way  we  looked  down  from  the  height 
upon  many  continually  changing  scenes  of  picturesque 
beauty.  Now  there  appeared  a  vista  through  a  wooded 
ravine   of  striking   grandeur,   now   a   view   of  a   rocky 


(19) 


20 


AfTRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


gorge   penetrating   from  the   ocean,   and   again   a   wide 
panorama  of  city,  harbor,  and  ocean. 

Our  return  to  the  city  was  in  a  conveyance  indeed 
unique.     The  descent  of  the  mountain  in  sleds  from  the 


HK    >IJ|)K    l>     1\\()    iMlLK.s    IN    LKXc.TH. 


FUNCHAL.  21 

summit  to  the  city  below,  through  narrow  lanes  paved 
with  small  stones  worn  and  slippery  from  years  of 
service,  was  an  experience  long  to  be  remembered. 
Our  sled,  without  any  means  of  propulsion  but  our  own 
weight,  glided  rapidly  down  the  hill  over  the  smooth 
surface  of  the  pavement  like  a  toboggan  on  an  icy  slide. 
It  was  controlled  by  two  men,  who,  sometimes  running 
alongside,  sometimes  clinging  to  the  runners,  regulated 
the  speed  and  guided  the  sled  around  corners  by  means 
of  ropes  attached  to  its  sides. 

"That  was  a  wild  and  exciting  ride,"  exclaimed  one 
of  the  ladies  who  had  been  tightly  holding  to  her  seat 
during  the  descent.  "What  is  the  distance  from  the 
summit  ? ' ' 

"The  slide  is  about  two  miles  in  length,  lady, "  replied 
one  of  the  conductors. 

"Don't  take  our  picture  now  with  our  hair  flying 
wildly,"  exclaimed  an  occupant  of  a  sled  just  arriving, 
to  a  friend  with  a  camera. 

"Your  request  comes  too  late,"  he  answered.  "I 
have  pressed  the  button.  " 

"I  hope  it  will  not  be  a  good  one,"  she  wished,  but 
it  was. 

When  we  returned  to  the  Moltke  many  row-boats  were 
clustered  around  the  vessel.  Some  of  these  had  brought 
visitors  who  desired  to  inspect  the  ship.  Some  contained 
Portuguese  merchants,  who,  with  cargoes  of  embroidery, 
wicker  chairs,  straw  goods,  fruits,  photographs,  and 
curios,  had  been  patiently  awaiting  our  return.  When 
they  were  permitted  to  come  on  board  they  displayed 
their  wares  upon  the  deck  and  made  many  sales.     Other 


22 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


small  craft  contained  half-naked  boys  who  shouted  to 
us  to  test  their  skill  as  divers  by  throwing  pennies  into 
the  clear  but  deep  emerald  water,  claiming  that  they 
could  secure  the  money  before  it  reached  the  bottom 
of  the  bay.  We  complied  with  the  boys'  request  and 
exhausted  the  ship's  supply  of  pennies  in  putting  their 
dexterity  to  the  proof.  When  the  money  was  thrown 
into  the  sea  the  voung  experts,  diving  like  beavers  and 


r 

w. 

1       i 

'^^ 

'"" 

THE   TUG   CARRIED    US   TO   THE    MOLTKE. 

successful  in  securing  the  money,  rose  to  the  surface 
and  clambered  into  the  boats  holding  the  coins  in  their 
mouths.  One  youth  more  daring  than  the  others 
mounted  to  the  upper  deck  of  our  steamer  and  offered, 
if  a  shilling  instead  of  a  penny  was  thrown  into  the  w^ater, 
to  plunge  from  his  high  perch  to  the  sea  fifty  feet  below 
and  get  the  silver.  And  he  won  much  applause  by 
successfully  accomplishing  the  feat. 


PUNCH  AL.  23 

Toward  evening  the  whistle  of  the  steamer  sounded 
warning  notes.  The  time  for  sailing  was  at  hand. 
The  tourists  who  had  been  loitering  on  the  shore  has- 
tened to  return.  The  peddlers  on  the  deck  reluctantly 
packed  their  unsold  wares  and  with  their  bundles  de- 
scended the  ship's  ladder.  The  visitors,  after  courteously 
bidding  adieu  to  the  officials  who  had  been  enter- 
taining them,  took  their  departure.  But  the  trained 
swimmers  whose  antics  in  the  water  were  giving  so 
much  amusement  tarried  until  ordered  away.  Then 
while  our  band  played  a  farewell  air,  Sousa's  "Hands 
Across  the  Sea,"  the  Moltke  slowly  steamed  out  of  the 
harbor. 


CHAPTER  III. 
GIBRALTAR. 

IS  not  this  a  German  vessel?"  asked  a  passenger  of 
the  first  officer,  as  the}^  stood  conversing  near  the 
gymnasium  on  the  upper  deck  the  morning  after 
we  left  Funchal. 

"Most  surely  it  is,"  he  replied,  astonished  at  the 
question. 

"Then, "  pointing  to  the  red  ensign  floating  at  the  top 
of  the  foremast,  "why  does  the  Moltke  fly  the  British 
colors  ? ' ' 

"The  British  flag  at  our  foremast  indicates  that  this 
ship  is  bound  for  a  port  that  belongs  to  Great  Britain, " 
explained  the  mate.  "When  we  sail  from  Gibraltar 
the  Union  Jack  will  be  replaced  by  the  French  tri-color 
to  show  that  we  are  then  on  the  way  to  a  French  port. 
The  emblem  on  the  fore -mast  will  be  changed  many 
times  before  we  return  to  New  York.  But  there," 
turning  and  pointing  to  the  rear,  "in  its  place  at  the 
stern  is  the  German  standard,  the  flag  of  our  fatherland. 
There  it  will  remain  throughout  the  cruise.  Above  us, 
too,  on  the  mast  nearest  the  stern,  the  white  pennant 
bearing  the  letters  H.  A.  P.  A.  G.,  the  insignia  of  the 
company  that  owns  the  Moltke,  will    constantly  fly." 

The  evening  we  sailed  from  Funchal  each  lady  found 
beside  her  plate  at  the  dinner  table  a  bunch  of  violets, 
a   memento  from  the   flower  gardens   of  Madeira ;  and 

(34) 


(25) 


26  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

on  St.  Valentine's  Day  each  found  there  a  package 
containing  a  pretty  fan  with  the  compHments  of  the 
Captain.  At  this  dinner  on  the  fourteenth  of  February 
much  merriment  prevailed  during  the  dessert  course, 
when  favors  containing  caps  and  bonnets  were  distrib- 
uted. Formality  was  dropped  for  the  time.  Each 
diner  donned  his  headgear  and  the  comical  appearance 
of  the  wearers  drew  forth  many  pleasantries  and  much 
laughter. 

The  Captain,  with  a  huge  paper  sun -bonnet  on  his 
head,  rose  to  make  a  few  remarks. 

"Silence!  listen  to  what  our  old  mother  has  to  say!" 
cried  a  humorist. 

Amid  laughter  the  captain  began,  but  the  laughter 
quickly  ceased  and  his  words  were  listened  to  with 
attention. 

"Fellow  voyagers,"  said  he  in  conclusion,  "you  will 
find  on  the  bulletin  board  to-night  some  information  and 
advice  relative  to  your  trip  to  Granada.  For  the  past 
ten  days  you  have  been  under  my  charge  and  I  have 
looked  after  your  welfare,  but  to-morrow  you  leave  the 
vessel  for  two  days.  I  wish  you  a  pleasant  excursion 
and  a  safe  return  to  shelter  under  the  care  of  your  'Old 
Mother.'  " 

After  the  applause  had  subsided  and  a  response  had 
been  made  by  one  of  the  passengers,  the  orchestra 
plashed  as  a  finale  Liebe's  "Auf  Wiedersehen. " 

Then  we,  after  securing  pencil  and  paper,  hastened  to 
join  the  crowd  around  the  bulletin  board  to  make  notes 
of  the  directions  for  the  trip  into  Spain.  The  notice 
read  as   follows : 


GIBRALTAR. 


27 


"The  Moltke  will  arrive  at  Gibraltar  to-morrow, 
February  fifteenth,  before  daylight.  Breakfast  will 
be  served  at  an  early  hour  and  tenders  will  be  along- 
side the  steamer  at  seven  o'clock  to  take  the 
tourists  to  the  dock.  There  guides  will  be  in  wait- 
ing and  three  hours  will  be  spent  in  Gibraltar. 

"At  ten  o'clock  the  tourists  will  be  conveyed  in 
the  steam  ferry  across  the  bay  to  the  railroad  station 
at  Algeciras,  from  which  place  the  train  will  start 
for  Granada.  During  the  ferry  passage  a  box  con- 
taining luncheon  to  be  eaten  on  the  train  will  be 
given  to  each  person. 

"  Dress  warmly  or  take  heavy  wraps,  as  it  is  some- 
times cold  at  Granada  at  this  sea-son  of  the  year. 

"Call  at  the  office  at  the  news-stand  on  main 
deck  for  railroad  tickets  and  hotel  assignments. 

"The     excursion     party     returning     will     leave 
Granada    at   four   o'clock    Monday    afternoon    and 
arrive     at     the     steamer     about     midnight.     The 
Moltke  will  then  sail  for  Algiers." 
"Let  us  go  to  the  office  ac  once.     The  giving  out  of 
tickets  may  require  considerable  time,"  said  my  room- 
mate. 

Others  were  of  the  same  opinion,  it  seemed,  for  many 
were  ahead  of  us,  but  there  was  no  delay,  each  applicant 
receiving  promptly  with  his  railroad  ticket  a  card  bear- 
ing the  name  of  the  hotel  in  Granada  to  which  he  was 
assigned.  The  managers  of  the  tour,  having  arranged 
in  advance  for  the  required  number  of  rooms  at  the 
principal  hotels,  were  prepared  to  make  the  allotment 
before   leaving   the   vessel,   so   avoiding   confusion   and 


2  8  A    TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

delay  on  our  arrival  at  our  destination,  and  securing 
for  us  prompt  attention  at  the  hotels. 

Some  of  our  friends  who  had  already  received  their 
envelopes  rejoiced  to  see  on  their  cards  "  Hotel  Washing- 
ton Irving,"  a  hotel  which  they  knew  from  description 
to  be  beautifully  situated  on  the  heights  near  the 
Alhambra. 

"Hotel  Victoria,"  I  read  on  mine.  I  was  disap- 
pointed at  first:  but  on  the  following  da\'  I  found  that 
the  central  location  of  the  "Victoria"  gave  opportuni- 
ties to  see  much  of  the  life  of  the  city  that  might  have 
been  missed  had  the  assignnrient  been  to  the  hotel  in 
the  suburbs. 

When  we  awoke  the  next  morning  the  Moltke  was 
lying  quietly  at  anchor.  We  hastily  dressed  and 
ascended  to  che  deck. 

Any  one  who  has  seen  pictures  of  the  huge  rock  that 
guards  the  entrance  to  the  Mediterranean  will  recognize 
Gibraltar  at  sight  if  he  approaches  the  rock  from  the 
right  point  of  view.  The  illustrations,  however,  repre- 
sent a  somber  mountain.  The  picture  we  saw  showed 
white  houses,  red  roofs,  green  trees,  patches  of  lawn, 
groups  of  shrubbery,  and  plots  of  flowers,  all  contrasting 
with  gray  rocks;  these  with  blue  sky  overhead,  and 
white  sails  in  the  foreground  gave  life  and  color  to  the 
scene. 

As  we  gazed  for  some  time  from  the  vessel's  deck  at 
the  strong  fortress  which  has  been  held  securely  in  the 
grasp  of  Great  Britain  for  two  hundred  years,  we 
thought  of  the  many  unsuccessful  attempts  that  have 
been  made  during  those  two  centuries  to  wrest  it  from 


THE     ROCK     HAD     A     PEACEFUL     LOOK. 
(29) 


so  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT 

British  control;  most  noted  of  all,  the  long  siege  by  the 
French  and  Spanish  forces  that  continued  for  four  years 
when  Napoleon  was  supreme  in  France.  What  might 
have  been  the  result,  if  England's  grasp  on  the  rock 
had  been  broken  by  Napoleon;  or  what  the  outcome, 
if  Napoleon's  fleet  had  been  victorious  in  the  conflict 
on  the  near-by  Trafalgar  Bay ! 

The  rock  had  a  peaceful  look,  but  we  knew  that  the 
cactus  plants,  which  grew  rank  on  the  slope  of  the 
mountain,  concealed  powerful  batteries,  and  that  on  the 
summit  of  the  rock  were  mounted  cannons  of  the  largest 
calibre,  which,  if  required,  could. hurl  projectiles  to  the 
far  side  of  the  strait,  a  distance  of  twelve  miles. 

On  one  of  the  highest  points  of  the  rock  stands  the 
Signal  Tower.  To  this  tower  the  officers  of  the  Moltke 
had  signaled  the  news  of  our  arrival  when  the  steamer 
entered  the  harbor,  and  before  we  had  stirred  from  our 
berths,  that  information  had  been  flashed  over  the  cable 
to  London  and  New  York.  On  the  following  morning 
our  friends  at  home  read  in  the  shipping  news  of  their 
daily  paper,  the  following  item: 

"Arrived  out;  Feb.  15,  Gibraltar,  Moltke,  from  New 
York." 

As  we  started  ashore  on  the  lighters  at  the  early  hour 
appointed,  we  realized  that  we  should  have  to  take  in  a 
great  deal  in  a  very  little  while.  We  entered  the  city 
of  Gibraltar  by  a  tunnel-like  entrance  through  walls  of 
great  thickness.  The  gateway  was  closely  guarded  by 
sentinels,  who  demanded  the  passes  with  which  we  had 
been  furnished  and  who  told  us  that  these  would  be 
good  only  until  sunset,  for  at  the  firing  of  the  evening 


GIBRALTAR. 


31 


WE    DESCENDED    A    LONG    LADDER    OF    FIFTY    STEPS. 


gun  each  day  the  gates  are  closed  and  the  passes  then  are 
useless. 


32  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

The  markets  near  the  gates,  where  many  kinds  of 
fruits,  vegetables,  and  fish,  unhke  those  seen  in  our 
home  markets,  were  offered  for  sale,  first  attracted  our 
attention.  Here  customers  carrying  oddly  shaped 
baskets  were  bargaining  with  Moorish  fishermen, 
Jewish  peddlers,  and  Spanish  marketmen.  Each  dealer, 
with  gesticulations  and  loud  voice,  appeared  to  be 
asserting  the  superiority  of  his  own  wares.  There  was  a 
confu.sion  of  tongues.  Only  the  pigs  tied  to  stakes 
squealed,  and  the  chickens  in  wicker  crates  crowed, 
in  strains  familiar  to  our  ears.  The  streets  through 
which  we  proceeded  were  clean  but  narrow.  The  side- 
walks were  only  wide  enough  for  two  people  to  walk 
side  by  side.  The  buildings  were  constructed  of  gray 
limestone  similar  to  that  of  which  the  great  Rock  is 
composed. 

The  presence  of  an  army  in  this  stronghold  was  indi- 
cated by  the  large  number  of  soldiers  we  met.  An 
officer  wh®m  we  questioned  kindly  told  us  that  the 
garrison  consisted  of  about  six  thousand  men,  and  that 
provisions  sufficient  to  feed  that  number  for  five  years 
in- case  of  siege  were  at  all  times  kept  in  storage.  He 
advised  us  to  visit  the  "Lower  Galleries"  of  the  forti- 
fications on  the  heights  and  obtain  the  view  from  that 
point,  and  then  to  attend  the  afternoon  band  concert 
in  the  park.  But  our  limited  stay  did  not  permit  us  to 
follow  his  suggestions. 

"In  some  respects,"  said  the  Major,  "Gibraltar  is 
rather  a  dull  post  for  the  officers  stationed  here ;  but 
we  have  a  large  library,  billiard  and  club  rooms,  courts 
for  tennis,  and  ground  for  polo.     We  have  also  many 


(33) 


34 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT, 


dances  and  riding  parties,  and  occasionally  attend  the 
Spanish  bull  fights  which  take  place  in  the  large  bull 
ring  across  the  bay  at  Algeciras.  " 

)f^  The  great  variety  of  uniforms  worn  by  the  soldiers  of 
England  was  particularly  noticeable.  We  saw  squads 
in  khaki  uniforms  carrying  quarters  of  beef  toward  the 
barrack  buildings  on  the  hill ;  a  detachment  in  Scotch 

kilts  marching  to 
relieve  the  guards 
on  sentinel  duty 
at  the  neutral 
ground;  many 
smart  looking 
corporals  and  ser- 
ge ants  in  short 
red  jackets  and 
little  red  caps 
placed  jauntily  on 
the  sides  of  their 
heads,  carrying 
short  canes;  an 
el derly  looking 
officer  in  spotless 
white  flannel,  to 
whom  the  mili- 
tary salute  was 
given  by  all  soldiers  who  passed  him;  numbers  of 
officers  in  red  coats  and  white  duck  trousers ;  and  a 
group  of  troopers  in  undress  uniform  of  coarse  white  or 
grey,  who  had  been  grooming  the  horses  in  the  stables. 
Other  things  of  interest  that  the  camera  of  our  eyes 


THERE   IS   A   LITTLE   MILK-MAID 
SERVING    MILK. 


GIBRALTAR.  35 

snapped  as  we  hurried  along,  were  yellow-slippered, 
bare-legged,  swarthy  Arabs  gliding  quietly  by ;  a  neat 
grey-gowned  nurse  taking  two  pretty  English  children 
to  early  service ;  Spaniards  in  long  black  cloaks  and 
felt  hats  drawn  down,  who  looked  exactly  like  the 
conspirators  we  see  in  a  play ;  many  sailors  in  the  garb 
of  various  nations,  who  appeared  to  be  enjoying  a  holiday 
ashore ;  Hebrew  residents  in  peculiar  looking  coarse 
costumes;  well  dressed  English  people  with  prayer 
books  on  their  way  to  church;  Moors  from  Tangiers  in 
snow-white  turbans,  and  black-haired  Spanish  senoritas 
with  large  pompadours,  high  combs,  and  mantillas 
draped  gracefully  over  their  heads.  These,  with  many 
others,  met  our  sight;  but,  among  all  the  crowd  we 
encountered,  we  were  not  approached  by  a  beggar,  the 
soliciting  of  alms  being  forbidden  by  the  military 
authorities . 

We  paused  to  glance  at  the  little  Trafalgar  cemetery, 
but  did  not  enter. 

"Here,"  said  the  English  guide,  "sleep  many  of  the 
British  heroes  who  with  our  gallant  Nelson  gave  their 
lives  to  gain  the  famous  naval  victory  of  the  Bay  of 
Trafalgar,  in  which  the  French  and  Spanish  fleets  were 
destroyed.  Bonaparte  boasted  that  the  combined 
navies  of  the  two  countries  would  crush  our  British 
fleet,  and  then  his  army  would  cross  the  channel  and 
camp  in  London;  but  our  brave  Admiral  upset  Napo- 
leon's plans. " 

Beyond  the  cemetery  we  crossed  the  Alameda  or 
Park  Gardens,  the  pleasure  ground  of  the  people,  where 
the  military  band  plays  in  the  afternoon  and  evening. 


36 


A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


There  we  saw  a  luxuriant  growth  of  subtropical  vegeta- 
tion, orange  trees  with  leaves  of  dark,  glossy  green, 
date  palms  with  bunches  of  unripe  dates,  palms  with 
broad  leaves,  spreading  pepper  trees,  and  great  ash 
trees  whose  roots  protruded  above  the  ground  for  unwary 
tourists   to   stumble   over.     The   geraniums   and   helio- 


EACH    COMPARTMENT    SEATS    EIGHT. 


tropes  were  of  gigantic  size,  and  many  other  flowering 
plants  were  unusually  large. 

Our  guide  persuaded  us  to  enter  a  museum,  as  he 
called  it;  but  this  proved  to  be  a  regular  old  curiosity 
shop  containing  a  large  assortment  of  oddities  and 
souvenirs  with  which  the  owner  was  willing  to  part  for 
a  sufficient  compensation. 


GIBRALTAR.  37 

"There  is  a  little  milkmaid  serving  milk.  I'll  take  a 
snap-shot  of  her  while  she  is  at  work,"  said  one  of  our 
party  with  a  camera  as  we  drew  near  a  young  girl  who 
was  drawing  milk  directly  from  a  brown-haired  goat  into 
a  customer's  pitcher. 

While  returning  to  the  wharf  we  met  several  herds  ot 
the  brown-haired  goats  driven  by  milkmen  through  the 
streets ;  and,  assembled  near  the  dock  around  a  group 
of  English  Salvation  Army  lads  and  lasses  who  were 
singing  familiar  hymns  accompanied  by  cornet  and 
drum,  we  saw  a  motley  crowd  of  men,  many  of  whom 
from  their  diverse  and  peculiar  costumes  were  evidently 
sailors  from  various  ports  of  the  world.  Then,  having 
completed  our  hurried  tramp  through  the  city  in  the 
time  allotted  for  that  purpose,  we  descended  the  steps 
at  the  pier  to  the  ferry-boat  that  was  to  carry  us  a  few 
miles  across  the  bay  to  the  town  of  Algeciras. 

After  thirty  minutes  on  the  ferry  we  stepped  ashore 
on  Spanish  soil.  The  first  special  train  had  departed 
and  the  second  was  being  made  up.  During  the  short 
interval  of  waiting,  the  kodak  carriers  were  busily 
engaged  securing  their  first  Spanish  views. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
GRANADA  AND  THE  ALHAMBRA. 

THE  small  cars  on  the  railroad  which  carried  us 
from  Algeciras  to  Granada  were  divided  into 
compartments  with  doors  opening  from  the  sides. 
Each  compartment  comfortably  seated  eight  persons, 
four  facing  the  front  and  four  the  rear.  This  arrange- 
ment of  seating  allows  general  conversation  among  the 
group,  and,  if  the  occupants  are  congenial,  promotes 
sociability. 

A  traveler  speeding  through  the  United  States  in  a 
"Chicago  Limited,"  at  the  rate  of  sixty  miles  an  hour, 
can  merely  catch  glimpses  of  objects  on  the  way  and 
receive  only  blurred  and  indistinct  impressions  of  the 
scenery;  but  when  traveling  in  the  "Spanish  Express," 
at  the  more  moderate  speed  of  twenty-five  miles  an  hour, 
he  can  enjoy  clear  and  vivid  pictures  of  the  unfolding 
panorama.  Let  me  try  to  describe  some  of  these 
pictures  just  as  they  appeared  to  us  during  the  trip. 

Looking  back  after  leaving  Algeciras,  we  saw  the  huge 
rock  of  Gibraltar,  almost  an  island,  connected  with  the 
main  land  by  a  narrow,  flat,  sandy  isthmus.  Across 
the  "neutral  ground,"  as  the  strip  between  the  English 
and  Spanish  possessions  is  called,  a  line  of  sentry  boxes 
extended,  and  red-coated  British  sentinels  paced  back 
and  forth.     Parallel  to  the  British  line  there  was  another 

(38) 


(39) 


40  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

line  of  sentry  boxes,  where  the  soldiers  of  Alfonzo  were 
on  guard  to  prevent  the  smuggling  of  tobacco  and  other 
forbidden  wares  into  Spain. 

"See  those  miserable  little  white  plastered  huts  with 
roofs  made  of  straw,"  said  one  of  our  party.  "I  did  not 
know  that  the  people  were  so  poor." 

This  picture  of  poverty  was  our  first  impression  of 
Spain.  For  some  distance  the  train  had  been  running 
through  a  region  apparently  unfertile,  where  fences  of 
sharp  spined  cacti  enclosed  small  fields.  The  people 
were  shabbily  dressed,  the  houses  straw-thatched  and 
dilapidated,  and  the  little  patches  of  land  poorly  culti- 
vated. It  seemed  that  Sunday  was  a  common  wash- 
day; for  at  almost  every  cottage  the  family  wash  was 
hanging  in  the  sun  on  trees,  shrubs,  or  cacti. 

Within  an  hour,  however,  we  were  passing  through  a 
section  of  the  country  entirely  different  in  aspect,  where 
the  cork  industry  gives  employment  to  many  people. 
For  a  distance  of  eight  or  ten  miles  groves  of  cork-oak 
trees  were  in  sight.  At  the  station  were  bulky  piles  of 
cork  bark,  cars  stacked  with  cork  were  on  the  sidings, 
and  great  carts  drawn  by  oxen  were  on  the  roads  bring- 
ing in  still  more  of  this  valuable  commodity. 

"Millions  of  bottles  are  made  in  our  cit3^  said  a  New 
Jersey  girl,  "and  there  is  enough  cork  here  in  sight  to 
stopper  them  all." 

Beyond  this,  the  land  was  more  fertile  and  under 
better  cultivation.  Well  built  stone  houses  replaced 
the  huts ;  glossy-leaved  orange  trees  and  pink-blossomed 
almond  trees  dotted  the  fields  or  filled  the  orchards. 
Instead  of  fences,  the  boundaries  of  fields  and  farms 


GRANADA  AND  THE  ALHAMBRA. 


41 


were  marked  at  the  corners  by  white  stones  projecting 
above  the  ground.  Farther  along,  yellow-green  olive 
plantations,  magnificent  in  size  and  beautiful  in  color, 
filling  the  valleys  and  hillsides  as  far  as  the  eye  could  see 


SPANISH    CHILDREN    CAME    TO    THE    STATION. 

with  orderly,  far-reaching  lines  of  trees,  made  so  im- 
pressive a  sight  that  it  drew  forth  many  expressions  of 
admiration. 

Women,  as  gatekeepers,  waved  white  flags  to  signal 
that  the  crossings  were  clear.  Gangs  of  men,  often 
thirty  in  a  gang,  were  in  the  fields  cultivating  leeks 
or  onions  with  crude,  heavy -looking,  short-handled  hoes. 
Teams  of  long-horned  oxen  attached  to  old-fashioned 
plows,  at  times  eight  or  ten  teams  in  one   field,  were 


42  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

turning  up  the  soil.  Occasionally  ox-teams  drawing 
heavily  laden  carts  or  wagons  were  seen  along  the  smooth 
white  roads;  but  more  frequently  appeared  trains  of 
slowly  moving  donkeys,  five  or  six  in  a  line,  with  gay 
trappings  and  bells  and  panniers  piled  high  with  -pro- 
duce, driven  by  red-sashed  muleteers. 

At  stations  w^here  the  train  stopped  five  or  ten  minutes, 
the  doors  at  the  sides  of  the  compartments  were  opened 
and  the  passengers  descended  and  walked  up  and  down 
the  platform.  Spanish  women,  carrying  jugs,  cried 
"  Lacte,  "  "Limonada,"  "Narrandjada,"  and  "  Acqua," 
and  other  peddlers  with  baskets  offered  "boUos," 
"tortitas,  "  and  "narranges.  "  After  some  difficulties  in 
obtaining  information  as  to  "how  much,"  the  shillings 
and  pence,  pesetas  and  centimes  of  the  tourists  were 
exchanged  for  the  milk,  lemonade,  orangeade,  and 
water,  the  cakes,  rolls,  and  oranges  of  the  dealers. 

One  of  the  ladies,  after  making  a  purchase,  said,  "I 
asked  that  woman  with  the  black-eyed  baby  the  price 
of  a  half  dozen  oranges.  She  said,  'Fifty  centimes. ' 
Then  I  offered  her  an  English  six-pence,  and  she  gave 
me  six  oranges  and  a  penny  in  change. " 

Spanish  boys  scrambled  for  a  roll  or  boiled  eggs  thrown 
to  them,  and  men,  women,  and  children  extended  their 
hands  for  money  or  remnants  of  our  luncheon.  One 
boy  who  had  secured  an  apple  and  an  egg  in  a  scramble 
laughed  with  happiness  over  his  success.  These  people 
did  not  appear  to  be  destitute ;  for  children,  as  well  as 
adults,  were  comfortably  clothed,  and  wore  neat  looking 
shoes  and  stockings.  As  the  day,  however,  was  Sun- 
day, probably  they  were  in  holiday  attire. 


GRANADA  AND  THE  ALHAMBRA. 


43 


The  red-capped  station  masters  were  important 
personages.  At  the  principal  stations  they  directed 
the  starting  of  the  trains  with  the  greatest  care  and 
dehberation.  In  our  own  country  the  conductor's  hand 
touches  the  signal-cord  and  the  train  moves.  At 
Ronda,  a  bell  in  the  station  rang,  then  a  red-capped 
employee  trotted  along  the 
length  of  the  train  ringing  a 
hand  dinner  bell.  A  minute 
later  he  repeated  his  trip  with 
warning  bell,  then  the  whistle 
tooted,  but  it  was  not  until 
the  red-cap  was  sure  that 
every  passenger  was  aboard 
that  the  whistle  issued  a  second 
toot  and  the  wheels  began  to 
revolve.  These  extraordinary 
precautions,  although  afford- 
ing amusement  for  the 
tourists,  may  have  been 
taken  under  special  orders  of 
the  railroad  officials  in  order 
to  avoid  accidents  and 
insure  our  safety.  At  any 
rate,  we  know  that  the  rail- 
road officials  and  their  Spanish  employees  did  give  us 
special  attention  and  treat  us  with  kindness  and 
courtesy. 

Through  many  deep  cuts  and  tunnels,  over  romantic 
gorges  of  dark  depth,  and  along  cliffs  whose  heights 
we    could   not   see,    the   train   climbed   and   crossed   a 


"may  we  kodak  you?" 
'they  all  do/'  he  replied. 


44  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

mountain  range.  As  the  car  emerged  from  tunnel  or 
cut,  changing  scenes  of  wild  and  savage  landscape  ap- 
peared near  by,  and  charming  glimpses  of  distant  valleys 
far  below.  The  torrents  and  waterfalls  of  the  river 
Gaudiara  added  to  the  weird  beauty  of  the  scene. 
A  stanza  in  Southey's  poem,  "The  Cataract  of  Lodore," 
fittingly  describes  the  wildness  of  the  river  that  we 
crossed  and  re-crossed  so  often: 

"Here  it  comes  sparklinj. 
And  there  it    lies  darkling: 
Now  smoking  and  frothing 
The  cataract  strong 
Then  plunges  along, 
And  dashing  and  flashing  and  splashing  and  clashing: 
And  so  never  ending  but  ever  descending, 
Sound  and  motions  forever  are  blending." 

A  famous  canyon,  deep  and  narrow,  with  rushing, 
foaming  stream,  seemed  like  a  crevice  sliced  down  by  a 
gigantic  blade.  Towns  and  villages  far  away  amid 
green  fields  and  gray  olive  orchards,  and  buildings 
of  white  and  cream,  luminous  in  the  sunlight,  with 
backgrounds  of  dark  and  rugged  mountains,  produced 
a  succession  of  picturesque  views.  Among  the  hills 
were  seen  young  Davids,  staff  in  hand,  guarding  flocks 
of  grazing  sheep,  ancient  swineherds  lazily  watching 
droves  of  swine  feeding  on  the  roots,  and  goatherds 
following  their  nimble-footed  brown  herds  as  they 
picked  their  way  among  the  rocks. 

As  we  approached  our  destination,  the  valleys  showed 
signs  of  great  prosperity.  The  fields  were  highly  culti- 
vated; the  farms  were   irrigated  by  ditches  of  flowing 


MARVELOUSLY     BEAUTIFUL     IN     MOORISH     SPLENDOR. 


(45) 


OF   THE 
iJiMIWCDOi-v-w 


46  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

water;  the  orchards  were  well  trimmed;  the  buildings 
larger;  and  the  red-sashed  laborers  more  sprucely 
attired. 

At  Pinos  we  saw  the  stone  bridge  where,  in  1492, 
Columbus,  on  his  way  to  France,  disheartened  by  his 
failure  to  interest  King  Ferdinand  in  his  plans,  was  over- 
taken by  Queen  Isabella's  messenger  and  summoned 
back  to  court  to  receive  his  commission. 

As  twilight  was  settling  down  we  arrived  on  schedule 
time  at  the  white  stone  station  in  Granada  where  car- 
riages stood  in  waiting  to  convey  us  to  the  hotels.  The 
Spanish  drivers  strove  to  surpass  each  other  in  speed. 
Our  coachman  lashed  his  horses  till  they  ran  like  a  run- 
away team.  Regardless  of  anyone  in  the  streets,  graz- 
ing wagons  by  the  way,  overtaking  and  passing  carriages 
ahead,  he  gave  us  the  wildest  ride  we  had  ever  taken. 
This  chariot  race  to  the  hotel,  a  distance  of  over  a  mile, 
happily  ended  without  accident  or  collision. 

"Well,  I'm  thankful  that  ride  is  over  without  an 
upset,"  exclaimed  with  a  sigh  of  relief  a  nervous  lady, 
who  had  tried  ineffectually  to  restrain  the  driver's 
zeal  by  the  use  of  English  words  which  he  did  not  under- 
stand. 

The  old  Cathedral,  covering  ground  equal  to  a  block 
in  length  and  half  a  block  in  width,  always  attracts 
many  visitors.  Massive  pillars  support  the  roof  and 
marble  tiles  cover  the  floor.  The  light,  falling  softly 
through  stained  glass  windows,  discloses  valuable 
paintings  on  the  walls,  fine  statuary  in  the  aisles,  and 
decorations  of  white  and  gold. 

"Is  this  building  very  old?"  some  one  inquired. 


GRANADA  AND  THE  ALHAMBRA. 


47 


"Old!"  replied  the  guide  with  scorn  in  his  voice, 
this  Cathedral  was  here  when  Columbus  discovered 
your  country."  The  guide,  however,  exaggerated 
somewhat.  It  was  built  just  about  the  time  America 
was  discovered. 

In  the  Ro3^al  Chapel  of  the  Cathedral,  upon  an 
alabaster  mausoleum   decorated  with   fine   carving,   lie 


HERE     WASHINGTON     IRVING    LIVED     FOR    A     TIME. 

the  effigies  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella.  The  soft, 
creamy  alabaster  gives  them  the  appearance  of  sleeping. 
An  inscription  on  the  tomb  reads  as  follows : 

This  chapel  was  founded  by  most  CathoHc  Don  Fernando 
and  Dona  Isable,  King  and  Queen  of  Spain,  of  Naples,  of  Sicily, 
of  Jerusalem,  who  conquered  this  kingdom  and  brought  it  back 


48  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

to  our  Faith;  who  acquired  the  Canary  Isles  and  the  Indies; 
who  crushed  heresy,  and  expelled  the  Moors  and  Jews  from  these 
realms. 

Queen  Dona  Isable  died  Nov.  26,  1504. 

King  Don  Fernando  died  Jan.  23,  1516. 

On  the  altar  of  the  chapel  is  a  very  interesting  bas- 
relief  representing  the  surrender  of  the  city  of  Granada. 
In  the  sacristy  we  were  shown  the  carefull}^  guarded 
holy  relics;  the  richlv^  embroidered  vestments  used  on 
ceremonial  occasions ,  the  sword  of  Ferdinand ;  the 
sceptre,  crown,  and  mirror  of  Isabella;  and  the  casket 
which  contained  the  jewels  that  the  Queen  offered  in 
pledge  to  secure  funds  for  Columbus. 

"Most  precious  of  all  the  relics,"  said  the  sacristan, 
"is  the  handkerchief  with  which  the  blessed  Santa 
Veronica  wiped  the  sweat  from  the  Savior's  brow  on 
the  road  to  Calvary.  This  bears  the  impression  of  the 
Savior's  face. " 

The  greatest  point  of  interest  in  Granada,  perhaps  in 
all  Spain,  is,  of  course,  the  Alhambra.  This  is  the  name 
given  to  a  collection  of  buildings  located  on  an  elevation 
that  overlooks  the  city.  These  palaces  on  the  heights 
were  for  many  centuries  the  dwelling  places  of  the 
Moorish  kings,  surrounded  bs'  their  nobles,  retainers, 
and  guardsmen.  They  were  also  the  repositories  in 
which  were  stored  the  immense  treasure  accumulated 
from  the  forays  of  the  Moors  upon  the  Christians  of 
northern  Spain,  and  from  the  sacking  of  Christian  cities. 
The  palaces  of  the  rulers  and  the  treasure  within  were 
protected  by  great  citadels  and  by  stout  walls  which 
encircled  the  heights. 


DECORATED     WITH     ARABESQUES      AND     STORIED     WITH    INSCRIPTIONS. 


(49) 


50  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

In[the'^latter  part  of  the  fifteenth  century,  after  a  long 
struggle,  the  Moorish  power  was  overthrown  by  King 
Ferdinand,  and  since  then  Granada  has  been  a  Spanish 
city.  Columbus  was  present  at  the  court  of  the  Spanish 
sovereign  when  the  capitulation  of  Granada  occurred 
in  April,  1492,  and  within  two  weeks  after  the  surrender 
of  the  city  received  his  commission  to  sail  in  search  of  a 
new  world. 

Washington  Irving 's  description  of  the  entrance  of  the 
conquering    Spaniards    into    the    Alhambra    after    the 


■m^- 


THE    GENERALIFE    OVERLOOKS    THE    ALHAMBRA. 

capture  of  the  city,  might,  with  the  change  of  a  word  or 
two,  still  portray  the  visit  of  a  party  of  modern  tourists. 
"The  halls  lately  occupied  by  turbaned  infidels," 
he  writes,  "now  rustled  with  stately  dames  and  Christ- 
ian courtiers,  who  wandered  with  eager  curiosity  over 
this  far-famed  palace,  admiring  its  verdant  courts  and 
gushing  fountains,  its  halls  decorated  with  elegant 
arabesques,  and  storied  with  inscriptions,  and  the 
splendor  of  its  gilded  and  brilliantly  painted  ceilings. " 


PROTECTED  BY  CITADELS  AND  WALLS. 
(51) 


52  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

Although  the  coloring  is  faded,  and  in  many  places  the 
intricate  ornamentation  is  crumbling  or  broken,  sufficient 
remains  to  show  how  marvelously  beautiful  it  must 
have  been  in  Moorish  splendor.  And  beautiful  it  still 
is,  notwithstanding  the  ravages  of  time. 

While  in  the  Court  of  Myrtles,  some  of  the  party 
examined  the  light,  graceful  arches  and  the  stucco 
tapestry  interwoven  with  flowers  and  leaves  that  adorn 
the  galleries;  others  were  more  interested  in  the  gold 
fish  swimming  in  the  transparent  water  of  the  long 
sunken  tank  in  the  center  of  the  tiled  court.  In  the 
richly  ornamented  Hall  of  the  Ambassadors,  the  state 
reception  room  of  the  king,  we  waited  while  the  guide, 
in  answer  to  a  request,  interpreted  some  of  the  delicateh" 
carved  inscriptions  that  fill  every  available  space  on  the 
wall. 

"One  of  these  mottoes,"  said  the  guide,  "that  is 
repeated  over  and  over  again  on  almost  every  wall  of  the 
palace,  reads:  'There  is  no  conqueror  but  Allah.' 
Other  mottoes  which  are  very  common  are :  'There  is  no 
God  but  Allah;'  'Mohammed  is  the  envoy  of  Allah;' 
'Allah  is  great;'  'Allah  never  forgets;'  and  various 
quotations  from  the  Koran.  " 

Twelve  weatherbeaten  marble  lions  in  the  center  of 
the  Court  of  Lions  uphold  a  large  alabaster  basin  in 
which  were  caught,  in  times  gone  by,  the  falling  waters 
of  the  fountain  above  it.  Many  graceful  pillars  support 
the  surrounding  arcades  of  this  court  and  the  exquisite 
fret -work  looks  as  if  carved  in  ivor^^ 

A  practical  man  in  the  party  called  attention  to  the 
beautiful  wooden  doors  through  which  we  entered  the 


GRANADA  AND  THE  ALHAMBRA.  53 

Hall  of  the  Abencerrages,  and  to  the  peculiar  manner 
in  which  they  were  hung  on  pivots  instead  of  hinges. 
On  the  rim  of  the  marble  basin  in  the  center  of  this  hall 
some  red  stains  were  seen. 

"Here,"  said  our  guide,  "is  where  the  heads  of  the 
.\bencerrages  were  cut  off. 

"But  why  was  Aben's  head  cut  off?"  inquired  a  lady. 

This  gave  the  guide  the  opportunity  he  desired. 

' '  A  prominent  member  of  the  tribe  or  family  of  the 
Abencerrages,  named  Hamet,"  he  replied,  "fell  in  love 
with  the  Sultana,  and  she  in  return  loved  the  handsome 
and  gallant  warrior.  Secret  meetings  took  place  under 
a  cypress  tree  in  the  garden  of  the  Generalife  until  the 
Sultan,  Boabdil,  accidentally  discovered  their  meetings. 
The  enraged  Boabdil,  without  revealing  his  knowledge 
of  their  actions,  invited  the  guilty  Hamet  and  every 
member  of  his  tribe  to  attend  a  banquet.  As  each  guest 
arrived  at  the  palace  he  was  brought  into  this  hall. 
Here  the  guards  seized  him,  forced  his  head  over  the 
edge  of  this  basin,  and  the  sharp  simitar  of  the  execu- 
tioner showed  no  mercy.  This  was  the  king's  revenge, 
and  so  the  stains  on  the  fountain." 

The  Room  of  Two  Sisters  brought  forth  exclamations 
of  praise.  Walls  covered  with  dainty  traceries  in  plas- 
ter, like  embroideries  on  a  ground  of  lace  work;  dados 
brilliant  in  fantastic  designs  of  red,  green,  and  blue; 
ceilings  dropping  thousands  of  stalactites  each  differing 
from  the  others  in  beauty  of  form ;  and  charming  views 
from  the  boudoir  windows  of  floral  beds  and  fountains 
in  the  garden  beyond, — all  these  combined  to  make 
this  place  a  suitable  residence  for  a  Queen. 


54 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


In  the  Baths  we  saw  where  royalty  had  bathed  in 
marble  basins  to  the  sound  of  music  by  players  in  the 
gallery   overhead. 

"Here  are  the  rooms  which  Washington  Irving  oc- 
cupied in  the  Alhambra  during  his  stay  in  Granada," 
explained  the  guide. 

Some  of  us  tried  to  recall  Irving 's  graphic  descriptions 
in  the   "Conquest  of  Granada"   of  the   scenes   around 


THE    SUMMER    RESIDENCE    OF    THE    MOORISH     KINGS. 

this  city ;  of  the  struggles  between  the  Christian  knights 
under  the  banner  of  Ferdinand,  and  the  Moorish  cava- 
liers under  the  standard  of  Mahomet;  of  fields  covered 
with  silken  canopies;  of  cavalcades  of  warriors  in 
jeweled  armor  and  nodding  plumes;  of  hand-to-hand 


CHARMING    VIEWS    FROM    BOUDOIR    WINDOWS. 


(55) 


56  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

conflicts  and  daring  exploits;  of  the  siege  and  capture 
of  the  city  and  expulsion  of  the  Moors  from  Spain. 
As  we  thought  of  the  unfortunate  Boabdil,  the  noble 
queen  mother  Ayxa,  and  the  beautiful  Zoraya,  driven 
into  exile,  giving  up  their  beloved  palace,  the  home  of 
their  ancestors  with  all  its  wealth  and  beauty,  to  their 
hated  enemies,  and  leaving  the  land  which  had  been  in 
possession  of  the  Moors  for  eight  centuries,  we  to  some 
extent  realized  the  sorrow  that  filled  the  hearts  of  the 
departing  exiles  as  they  looked  back  for  the  last  time 
on  the  heights  of  Granada  and  wept. 

Although  the  buildings  of  the  Alhambra  are  partly 
in  ruins,  the  view  from  the  Old  Watch  Tower  has  not 
changed  materially.  Standing  on  the  tiled  roof  to  which 
we  climbed  by  man}^  well  worn  stone  steps,  we  saw  a 
magnificent  panorama  spread  out  before  us.  The  city 
lay  almost  at  our  feet ;  beautiful  valleys  extended  for 
many  miles  dotted  with  white  villages;  gray  olive 
orchards  appeared  here  and  there ;  verdant  hills  rose 
in  the  distance;  and,  forty  miles  away,  the  snow- 
covered  peaks  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  pierced  the  sky. 

After  leaving  the  tower,  we  drove  to  the  Palace  of  the 
Generalife,  which  is  situated  on  the  mountain  side 
considerably  higher  than  the  Alhambra.  We  approached 
this  beautifully  located  residence,  where  Moorish  kings 
came  to  spend  the  summer  months,  by  a  wide  path 
bordered  with  tall  cypress  trees.  In  the  Court  of  the 
Cypresses  our  Spanish  guide  pointed  to  a  venerable  tree 
and  said:  "That  cypress  is  six  hundred  3^ears  old; 
under  it  the  guilty  lovers,  the  Queen  'and  Hamet, 
had  their  meetings  until  discovered  by  King  Boabdil." 


GRANADA  AND  THE  ALHAMBRA.  57 

In  the  gardens  of  the  Generalife,.  we  rambled  amid 
oddly  trimmed  trees,  climbing  roses,  immense  rose 
bushes,  fountains,  and  grottoes,  and  wished  that  our 
stay  might  be  prolonged.  The  terraces  of  the  garden 
have  flights  of  marble  steps  leading  from  one  level  to 
another.  One  of  the  flights  we  descended  had  runlets 
of  water  flowing  down  on  the  top  of  the  marble  balus- 
trades. Water,  clear  and  sparkling,  which  is  brought 
from  a  mountain  stream  above,  is  abundant  everywhere 
in  fountains  and  pools,  and  in  streamlets  along  the  path- 
ways. 

Among  the  sights  of  the  city  the  milk  delivery  was 
interesting  to  strangers.  A  number  of  long-haired 
brown  goats  having  been  driven  to  the  door  of  a  house, 
a  pitcher  was  brought  and  the  milk  drawn  fresh  from  one 
of  the  goats ;  or  a  cow  was  led  along  the  street  and  the 
milk  furnished  directly  from  the  cow  in  any  quantity 
desired  by  the  customer. 

Small  donkeys  with  panniers  were  used  instead  of 
wagons  for  the  transfer  of  almost  every  kind  of  material 
in  the  city  and  country.  Often  the  burdens  were  so 
large  that  the  donkey  was  almost  lost  from  sight.  We 
saw  these  patient  little  animals  driven  through  the 
streets  variously  laden  with  sacks  of  charcoal,  bundles 
of  wood,  baskets  of  vegetables,  crates  of  oranges,  bags 
of  coal,  cans  of  water,  kegs  of  wine,  or  bearing  hampers 
filled  with  building  stone,  bright  tinware,  or  new-mown 
grass.  Even  the  street  cleaners  shoveled  into  the 
panniers  on  the  donkeys'  backs  the  dirt  and  refuse  that 
had  been  collected  on  the  streets.  Occasionally  we  saw 
men  or  women  or  children  perched  on  the  top  of  a  load. 


58 


A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


Two  men  were  sometimes  seen  riding  on  one  donkey, 
and  once  we  observed  three  large  men  on  one  small 
donkey. 

As  we  drove  along  the  streets  to  the  station  the  resi- 
dents at  doors,  windows,  and  sidewalks  smilingly  com- 
mented among  themselves  on  our  outlandish  foreign 
costumes,  evidently  comparing  our  American  styles 
with    their    own    familiar    dress.     It    was    certainly    as 


INTO    THE    PANNIERS    ON    THE    DONKEY  S    BACK. 

interesting  to  the  Spanish  women  to  observe  the  pecu- 
liarities of  our  costumes  as  it  was  for  us  to  notice  the 
mantillas  and  gay  bodices  which  gave  them  a  pictu- 
resque appearance  in  our  eyes.  We  were  being  in- 
spected as  well  as  they ;  but  the  Spaniards  are  so  polite 
that  there  was  nothing  unpleasant  in  their  curiosity. 


GRANADA  AND  THE  ALHAMBRA.  59 

It  was  after  midnight  when  the  steam  launches  carried 
us  across  the  bay  from  Algeciras  to  our  steamship. 
The  reception  given  us  at  the  Moltke,  after  our  two 
days'  absence,  made  us  feel  that  we  had  indeed  arrived 
home.  Colored  fires  reddened  the  waters,  clusters  of 
electric  lights  illumined  the  sides  of  the  vessel,  the  band 
was  playing  on  deck,  and  the  captain  welcomed  us  at 
the  head  of  the  gangway.  Then  while  the  orchestra 
played  selections,  a  full  course  midnight  dinner  was 
served  to  the  hungry  pilgrims. 


CHAPTER  V. 
THE  CITY  OF  ALGIERS. 

ON  the  morning  of  Tuesda3^  February  seventeenth, 
the  Moltke  was  speeding  over  a  calm  sea  toward 
the  coast  of  Africa.  The  tourists,  after  the 
strenuous  sight-seeing  of  the  past  two  days,  luxuriously 
rested.  Some  lazily  lounged  in  steamer  chairs  with  pil- 
lows under  their  heads  and  gay  blankets  over  them; 
others  exchanged  experiences  with  friends  while  saunter- 
ing slowly  around  the  deck.  Some  in  groups  sur- 
rounded the  card  tables,  playing  or  watching  the 
games ;  while  others  read  books  from  the  shelves  of  the 
library,  or  gathered  the  latest  home  news  from  the 
columns  of  the  London  Times,  or  the  Paris  edition  of 
the  New  York  Herald,  copies  of  which  had  been  taken 
on  board  at  Gibraltar. 

During  the  afternoon,  however,  a  north-east  wind 
suddenly  arose  which  stirred  the  blue  waters  of  the 
Mediterranean  until  the  short  choppy  waves  gave  to 
the  vessel  a  new  and  peculiar  roll,  differing  from  ans^ 
previously  experienced  by  those  on  board.  As  a  result, 
many  of  the  passengers,  not  being  able  to  adjust  them- 
selves to  this  unfamiliar  change  of  motion,  became 
suddenly  pale,  and  prudently  retired  to  the  privacy  of 
their  staterooms.  But  by  the  time  the  evening  dinner 
was  served  the  wind  had  somewhat  subsided,  and  the 
majority  of  the  passengers  gathered  in  the  saloon  for  an 

(60) 


THE  CITY  OF  ALGIERS. 


6i 


entertainment  in  the  form  of  a  roll-call  of  states.  This 
was  presided  over  in  a  jolly  manner  by  a  prominent 
lawyer  from  Philadelphia.  As  he  called  the  name  of  a 
state,  some  native  of  that  state  responded  in  a  short 
informal  address  in  which  he  praised  his  section  of  the 
country  so  highly  that  he  made  it  appear  to  be  a  perfect 
El  Dorado.  There  was  but  time  to  hear  from  seventeen 
states  although  representatives  from  almost  every  state 
in  the  Union  and  from  Canada  were  present. 

When  the  sun  rose  on  Wednesday  morning  our  steamer 
was  anchored  within  the  breakwater  a  short  distance 


LIKE  GHOSTS    WALKING  THROUGH   THE   STREETS. 

from  the  docks  in  the  harbor  of  Algiers.  A  pleasant 
sight  greeted  our  e^'cs  when  we  came  on  deck.  We  saw 
a  little  white  boat  gliding  over  the  waves  flying  the 
American  flag,  then  two  white  steam  launches  speeding 
through  the  harbor  with  the  same  emblem  floating  in  the 
breeze,  while,  over  to  the  left,  we  descried  at  anchor 
three  white  gun  boats,  and  hanging  at  their  sterns  our 
country's  flag. 


62  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"Three  cheers  for  the  Stars  and  Stripes,"  cried  an 
enthusiast,  and  the  hurrahs  were  given  earnestly  and 
vigorously. 

On  the  bulletin  board  we  found  the  following  notice 
posted: 

PROGRAM  FOR  ALGIERS. 

The  Managers  will  furnish  landing  tickets  to  the  tourists 
but  all  expenses  while  on  shore  in  Algiers  will  be  borne  by  each 
individual. 

Carriages  will  be  waiting  on  the  docks  for  those  who  desire 
to  ride,  at  their  own  expense,  and  a  guide  will  be  assigned  to  go 
with  every  four  carriages. 

Meals  may  be  obtained  by  returning  to  the  ship,  and  pas- 
sengers are  expected  to  return  to  the  vessel  at  night. 

"How  shall  we  spend  the  day  without  a  definite  plan 
laid  out  for  us?"  said  one  of  a  group  at  the  bulletin 
board. 

"Let  us  take  carriages  with  a  guide  as  interpreter," 
suggested  another,  "and  drive  around  the  cit}^  during 
the  morning,  then  buy  our  luncheon  at  a  French  res- 
taurant, and  spend  the  afternoon  tramping  around  and 
visiting  the  shops. " 

"That  will  suit  me,  especially  the  shopping  part; 
I  want  to  buy  some  souvenirs,"  replied  a  third. 

"And  return  hungry  to  the  vessel  in  time  for  a  good 
dinner  in  the  evening,"  added  a  fourth. 

Descending  the  ship's  ladder,  we  placed  ourselves  in 
the  care  of  the  bronzed  Arab  boatmen,  whose  little  boats 
had  for  some  time  been  circling  around  the  steamer,  and 
were  rowed  to  the  custom  house  pier.  Not  having 
luggage  to  be  examined,  we  fearlessly  passed  the  red- 


THE  CITY  OF  ALGIERS. 


63 


trousered  custom  officials  in  the  building  and  crossed  the 
busy  docks  to  the  carriages  in  waiting. 

At  the  docks  many  vessels  were  lying,  and  the  wharves 
were  filled  with  outgoing  and  incoming  freight.  Beyond 
the  docks  along  the  front  of  the  city  is  a  broad  avenue, 


THE   LITTLE    MOSQUE    IN    GOUVERNMENT    SQUARE. 

the  Boulevard  de  la  Republic,  elevated  forty  or  fifty 
feet  above  the  wharves.  This  boulevard  is  supported 
on  the  sea  side  by  solid  white  stone  arcaded  walls, 
and  is  reached  by  inclined  roadways  or  by  handsome 
stone  stairways.      On    the    land    side  it  is  lined  with 


64  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

substantial    white    stone    buildings    of   uniform   height 
with  an  arcade  in  front. 

The  population  of  the  city  of  Algiers,  about  100,000, 
is  composed  principally  of  Moors,  Arabs,  Negroes, 
and  other  African  nationalities,  but  with  a  large  num.ber 
of  French,  and  many  Hebrews,  some  Spanish,  English, 
and  other  Continental  representatives,  and  a  few  Ameri- 
cans. On  its  streets  we  saw  faces  of  different  colors 
ranging  from  pure  white,  through  all  the  tints  of  brown, 
to  the  deepest  black. 

In  the  Place  de  Gouvernment,  one  of  the  centers  of 
business  and  religious  life  of  the  city,  we  met  turbaned 
Arabs,  barefoot  negroes,  red-trousered  soldiers,  French 
civilians,  American  tourists,  Hebrew  traders,  Kabyle 
mountaineers.  In  this  motley  crowd  the  native  men 
and  women  especially  attracted  our  attention.  The 
Algerine  men  wore  long  white  gowns  fastened  at  the 
waist  with  a  girdle;  white  cloaks,  called  bournous, 
around  their  shoulders;  and  white  turbans  of  many 
folds  on  their  heads.  The  richer  classes  were  arrayed 
in  spotless  garments  of  fine  material,  stockings,  and 
ornamented  sandals;  the  laborers  wore  coarse  gowns, 
and  sandals  made  of  rope ;  while  the  unclean  bodies  of 
importunate  beggars  and  unfortunate  cripples  were  but 
partially  covered  with  filthy  sacking  and  rags  which 
hung  upon  them. 

The  Mohammedan  women,  wearing  long  bloomers 
made  exceedingly  full,  and  white  mantles  resembling 
sheets  draped  over  their  heads  and  falling  loosely  around 
their  bodies,  looked  like  ghosts  as  they  walked  through 
the    streets.     The    white    bandages    or    veils    wrapped 


(65) 


66  .1    TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

around  their  heads  concealed  all  the  features  except 
the  eyes,  which  appeared  black  and  piercing.  The 
Arab  men  may  be  able  to  distinguish  the  age  of  these 
veiled  females,  but  it  was  difficult  for  us  to  tell  which 
were  old  women,  and  which  young,  except  by  the  elas- 
ticity of  their  movements. 

Near  the  Place  de  Gouvernment  is  the  imposing  palace 
of  the  Governor  where  all  official  business  is  transacted. 
Adjoining  the  palace  stands  the  handsome  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral.  A  long  flight  of  white  marble 
steps  leads  up  to  the  doors  of  the  Cathedral  and  a 
spreading  palm  tree  stands  like  a  guard  near  the  foot 
of  the  stairway.  As  we  stood  before  the  tomb  of  St. 
Geronimo  in  the  interior  of  the  Cathedral,  we  listened  to 
the  following  tale  told  by  our  Catholic  guide. 

"A  young  man  by  the  name  of  Geronimo,  who  lived 
in  Italy  about  three  hundred  and  fift}'  A^ears  ago,  was 
captured  by  the  Moors,  and  because  he  would  not  re- 
nounce the  Christian  religion,  was  condemned  by  his 
captors  to  death  by  torture.  They  tied  his  feet  and 
hands  with  cords  and  threw  him  alive  into  a  mould  of 
soft  concrete  which  slowly  hardened  around  him,  and 
the  stone  thus  formed  was  built  into  the  wall  of  a  fortress 
then  in  course  of  construction.  Fifty  years  ago,  when 
the  fortress  was  being  demolished,  the  block  of  stone  was 
discovered  with  the  skeleton  enclosed  therein.  The 
bones  were  carefully  removed  and  interred  in  this  Chapel 
in  the  tomb  you  see  before  you.  Into  the  vacant  space 
within  the  block  of  concrete,  after  removal  of  the  bones, 
liquid  plaster  of  Paris  was  poured,  as  into  a  mould,  and 
a  perfect  model  of  Geronimo's  body  was  obtained  and 


OF   THE 

OF 

^§^^ITY  OF  ALGIERS.  67 

placed  in  the  Museum.  It  was  in  recognition  of  this 
act  of  heroism  in  refusing  to  renounce  the  Christian 
faith  that  the  martyr  was  canonized  and  the  name  of 
Geronimo  was  added  to  the  calendar  of  the  saints  of 
our  Church. " 

In  confirmation  of  the  guide's  story,  the  plaster  of 
Paris  model  of  the  dead  martyr's  body  may  be  seen 
among  the  curiosities  and  antiquities  in  the  National 
Museum,  a  short  distance  from  the  Cathedral.  This 
model  shows  the  features,  the  clothing,  and  the  cords 
which  tied  his  feet  and  hands. 

The  main  business  part  of  the  city  is  not  only  modern 
but  model,  having  clean,  well  paved  streets  lined  with 
substantial  white  stone  four-story  buildings  with  arcades 
or  covered  pavements  in  front  of  them.  As  very  little 
smoke  or  soot  rises  from  the  city  the  white  buildings 
have  not  become  soiled  and  darkened  but  retain  their 
freshness  and  purity  of  color. 

Many  of  the  stores  we  visited  were  kept  by  Arabs  who 
understood  French  but  could  speak  only  a  few  words 
of  English.  The  prices  named  by  these  merchants 
were  generally  two  or  three  times  more  than  they  ex- 
pected customers  to  pay,  and  it  was  very  amusing  to 
watch  the  process  of  a  sale.  A  price  was  named  by  the 
dealer;  a  bid  was  made  by  the  customer;  then  figuring, 
explaining,  and  dickering  went  on  in  a  mixture  of 
languages  and  signs  until  finally,  if  the  buyer's  patience 
did  not  wear  out,  the  deal  closed  with  a  compromise. 
When  the  purchaser  departed  happy  with  a  bargain, 
the  dealer  also  appeared  well  satisfied,  and  if  the  same 
buyer  returned  to  the  store  after  once  making  a  purchase, 


68  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

the  Arab  merchant  would  recognize  and  welcome  him 
with  most  gracious  smiles  as  if  he  were  one  of  his  warmest 
friends. 

In  these  shops  there  was  offered  for  sale  such  a  varied 
and  attractive  assortment  of  oriental  wares,  that  by 
evening  the  tourists  were  laden  with  packages.  Hand- 
some silk  rugs,  embroidered  silk  waists,  curiously  carved 
Algerine  weapons,  brightly  colored  leather  goods, 
articles  of  hammered  brass  or  copper,  silver  filagree 
work,  ornaments  of  silver  and  gold,  trinkets  of  ivory, 
coral  and  pearl,  fans,  photographs,  and  picture  postal 
cards  purchased  during  the  da3^  were  stored  away  in 
staterooms  as  souvenirs  of  Algiers. 

At  the  market  stands  were  fruits  and  vegetables  in 
abundance.  The  dates  offered  were  especially  pleasing 
in  appearance  and  quality.  The  bread  dealers,  we 
noticed,  sold  bread  by  weight,  and  added  or  cut  off 
chunks  and  slices  in  order  to  give  the  exact  weight 
wanted  by  customers. 

The  beggars  did  not  trouble  us  very  much  by  their 
importunities,  although  they  were  to  be  seen  everywhere 
in  filth  and  rags.  Street  peddlers,  however,  were  per- 
sistent in  offering  wares  and  trinkets  for  sale,  and  bright 
Arab  boys,  who  had  learned  a  few  sentences  of  English 
ran  after  us  offering  their  services  as  guides. 

The  coffee  shops  which  we  saw  while  passing  through 
the  streets  were  as  numerous  in  Algiers  as  beer  saloons 
in  an  American  city.  As  the  Mohammedan  religion 
forbids  the  use  of  alcoholic  liquors,  the  Arab  followers 
of  Mahomet  appeared  to  be  satisfying  their  craving 
for  stimulants  by  drinking  strong  black  coffee  and  by 


THE  CITY  OF  ALGIERS. 


69 


drinking  it  often.  In  the  cafes,  which  are  open  in 
front,  allowing  all  that  goes  on  inside  to  be  visible  from 
the  street,  and  on  the  benches  outside  the  shops,  we 
saw  the  customers  sitting  crosslegged  slowly  imbibing 
this  favorite  beverage  from  tiny  cups.     It  was  plainly 


ON    FRIDAYS   THE   WOMEN   VISIT  THE  CEMETERY. 

apparent  that  in  this  warm  climate  where  there  is  no 
haste,  numberless  hours  are  dreamed  away  on  the 
benches  of  these   cafes. 

When  we  left  the  modern  part  of  the  city  and  ascended 
the  avenues  which  lead  up  the   hill  toward  the   older 


70  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

portion  we  found  the  streets  diminishing  in  width  until 
they  were  only  passageways  from  six  to  ten  feet  wide, 
bordered  by  high  buldings  with  blank  walls  showing  no 
windows  below,  but  with  projecting  windows  above 
which  almost  meet  overhead.  In  some  of  these  steep, 
narrow,  crooked  streets  there  are  little  shops  about 
the  size  of  a  large  closet  in  which  the  merchant,  sitting 
crosslegged  on  bench  or  cushion,  can  reach  his  goods 
and  wait  on  his  customer  without  rising  or  interfering 
with  the  enjoyment  of  his  pipe .  As  the  narrow  thorough- 
fares are  not  wide  enough  for  carriages,  we  had  to  walk 
through  them  with  a  guide.  We  were  not  favorably 
impressed  with  the  odors  nor  with  the  sight  of  the  filth 
in  the  streets  and  were  glad  when  the  guide  turned  from 
the  gloom  and  foulness  of  the  ancient  Moorish  streets 
and  led  us  again  toward  the  bright  and  attractive  ave- 
nues of  the  modern  city. 

The  electric  street  cars  are  divided  into  two  com- 
partments ;  the  first  class  having  thin  cushions  on  the 
seats,  and  the  second  class  having  wooden  seats  without 
cushions.  The  natives  save  the  extra  penny  of  fare 
by  crowding  into  the  second  class,  thus  giving  to  the 
first  class  passengers  the  advantage  of  always  having 
enough  room.  In  the  second  class,  however,  the 
tourists  had  a  more  favorable  opportunity  to  study  the 
people.  Opposite  us  in  one  of  the  second  class  compart- 
ments which  we  entered  sat  two  veiled  women  in  their 
voluminous  white  bloomers  and  wrappings.  We  could 
see  that  one  was  old  by  the  fact  that  she  leaned  upon  a 
staff,  and  we  decided  that  the  other  was  young  because 
she    showed    some    curiosity.  ,  Sitting    near    us    was    a 


THE  CITY  OF  ALGIERS. 


71 


little  black  haired  Arab  girl  with  a  chunk  of  dry  bread 
in  her  hand,  at  which  she  was  gnawing  greedily.  In  a 
corner  seat  a  meek  looking  nun  in  black  gown  and  wide 


ABLUTION    AT    THE    FOUNTAIN    BEFORE    PRAYER    IN    THE 
MOSQUE. 

Spreading  stiff  bonnet  was  counting  the  beads  of  her 
rosary  as  quietly  as  if  alone  in  her  devotions. 

"Look,"  said  one,  as  we  were  leaving  the  car,  "there 
is  the  'Thomson  and  Houston'  stamp  on  the  motor." 

"Yes,"  responded  another,  '*  American  products 
appear  to  be  well  represented  in  this  French  colony." 


72  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

On  the  main  business  thoroughfare  we  had  noticed 
warerooms  where  'Singer'  sewing  machines  are  sold; 
at  an  agency  of  the  'Eastman  Company'  we  had  re- 
stocked our  kodaks  with  films;  and  we  could  not 
avoid  seeing  on  a  large  sign,  in  letters  that  could  be  read 
a  block  away,  the  words  'American  Dentist. '  Conse- 
quently when  we  passed  the  American  Consulate  it  was 
with  a  feeling  of  pride  that  we  saluted  the  National 
Emblem  which  was  floating  gracefully  in  the  breeze. 

In  the  Rue  de  Marine  we  saw  an  old  structure  of 
large  dimensions  with  a  long  row  of  plain  white  marble 
columns  in  front,  which,  from  its  appearance,  might  be 
mistaken  for  an  old  warehouse.  We  were  told  b}^  a 
Moslem  guard,  who  fortunately  understood  our  inquiry 
and  was  able  to  answer  our  questions  in  English,  that 
the  building  is  the  Mosque  El  Tebir,  the  Great  Mosque, 
and  that  we  might  enter  subject  to  certain  regulations. 

"You  must  remove  your  shoes,"  said  he,  "or  wear 
slippers  over  your  shoes.  You  must  also  pay  a  small 
entrance  fee. " 

In  the  vestibule,  the  door-keepers  of  the  Mosque 
selected  slippers  from  an  assortment  of  different  sizes 
which  they  kept  for  visitors'  use  and  tied  these  over  our 
shoes  with  tapes.  We  were  then  permitted  to  enter  and 
wander  around  the  interior  over  the  handsome  Persian 
rugs  which  cover  the  stone  floor. 

"The  Moslems  regard  their  Mosques  as  very  sacred 
places  consecrated  to  the  worship  of  Allah,  and  they 
will  not  permit  any  profanation  of  their  sanctuary," 
cautioned  one  of  our  party,  a  Presbyterian  minister, 
seeing  that  we  were  inclined  to  make  fun  of  the  slippers. 


(73) 


74  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"The  Moslems  remove  their  shoes  and  enter  the  place  of 
worship  with  reverence,  and  they  expect  us  to  behave 
in  a  respectful  manner.  " 

"The  removal  of  the  shoes  at  the  entrance  to  a  place 
of  worship,"  continued  the  minister  in  explanation, 
"is  an  immemorial  Eastern  custom  based  on  the  words: 
'And  he  said,  Draw  not  nigh  hither;  put  off  thy  shoes 
from  off  thy  feet,  for  the  place  whereon  thou  standest 
is  holy  ground,'  and  also  on  the  words:  'And  the  captain 
of  the  Lord's  hosts  said  unto  Joshua,  Loose  thy  shoe 
from  off  thy  foot ;  for  the  place  whereon  thou  standest 
is  holy.  And  Joshua  did  so.'  We  should  remember 
that  the  Mohammedan  faith  is  based  on  the  Old  Testa- 
ment, though  supplemented  by  the  instructions  of 
Mahomet." 

In  this  ancient  Mosque,  where  the  worship  of  Allah 
and  the  study  of  the  Koran  has  continued  for  nine 
hundred  years,  we  found  a  few  barefoot  worshipers, 
some  kneeling  muttering  their  prayers,  while  others 
squatted  on  the  floor  reading  the  Koran  aloud.  At 
one  end  of  the  interior  we  saw  the  niche  which  indicates 
the  direction  in  which  Hes  the  Holy  City  of  Mecca,  and 
toward  this,  as  is  the  custom  in  all  Mohammedan 
mosques,  the  worshipers  turn  their  faces  while  at 
prayer.  There  were  no  benches  or  chairs  in  the  mosque, 
as  the  devotees  assumed  a  crosslegged  position  on  the 
thick  rugs  during  the  time  of  their  reading,  and  stood  or 
knelt  while  offering  prayer. 

The  Jardin  d'Essai,  or  Botanical  Garden,  situated  in 
the  suburbs  near  the  sea  about  two  miles  from  the  center 
of    the    city,  is  reached    by  an  electric    street  car  of 


THE  CITY  OF  ALGIERS.  75 

American  make  which  for  a  three -cent  fare  carried  us 
to  the  gates.  In  the  garden  the  large  and  varied  collec- 
tion of  tropical  trees,  plants,  and  vines,  so  different 
from  those  growing  in  our  own  temperate  climate,  great- 
ly delighted  us.  An  "Avenue  of  Palms"  half  a  mile 
long  was  lined  with  palm  trees  of  many  varieties,  some 
wide-spreading  and  curiously  branching  has  broad 
leaves,  and  others,  high-growing,  has  tufted  tops  sway- 
ing in  the  air  fifty  or  sixty  feet  above  our  heads.  A 
wider  avenue  of  similar  length  was  bordered  with 
magnolia  trees  of  immense  growth  which  we  then  saw 
only  in  bud,  but  it  was  not  difficult  to  see  in  imagination 
the  magnificent  picture  that  would  be  presented  to  the 
eye,  when  later  on,  these  millions  of  buds  overhead 
would  be  in  full  bloom.  The  "Bamboo  Pathway" 
led  through  a  dense  growth  of  bamboos  whose  slender 
poles,  bending  under  a  slight  breeze,  kept  up  a  continual 
creaking  sound.  Huge  trees,  whose  wide-spreading 
branches  were  supported  by  scores  of  accessory  trunks, 
so  that  each  tree  formed  a  grove  of  its  own, we  recognized 
as  banyan  trees.  In  one  part  of  the  garden,  winding 
paths  led  through  a  tangled  tropical  growth  so  dense 
and  wild  that  one  felt  as  if  in  the  midst  of  an  African 
jungle  where  a  tiger  might  spring  forth  or  a  boa  con- 
strictor drop  down  on  one's  head. 

On  the  heights  to  the  east,  in  the  favorite  modern 
residential  district,  called  Mustapha  Superieur,  many 
large  white  stone  hotels  and  apartment  houses  were 
situated  amid  gardens  of  glossy -leaved  orange  and  lemon 
trees.  Palms,  plane,  and  pepper  trees  lined  the  clean, 
wide    avenues;  ereen    terraces    beautified    the    hillside 


76 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


gardens ;  and  villas  were  almost  hidden  from  sight  by  the 
climbing  roses  and  luxuriant  vines  with  clusters  of 
purple  racemes. 

"Many  of  these  villas,  "  said  the  guide,  "are  owned  by 
wealthy   English   and   French  families  who   spend  the 


THE  ENTRANCE  TO  A   NARROW   STREET. 

winters  here.  The  mild  climate  and  uniform  tempera- 
ture of  our  city  makes  this  place  a  favorite  winter  resort 
not  only  for  invalids,  but  for  those  who  desire  to  get 
away  from  the  damp  fogs  and  harsh  winds  of  more  north- 
ern climates." 


THE  CITY  OF  ALGIERS.  77 

"Our  city  is  noted  for  two  views  which  we  think  are 
unsurpassed,"  he  continued,  as  the  driver  reined  in  his 
team  on  a  summit.  "One  is  this  which  we  now  look 
down  upon  of  city,  harbor,  sea,  and  villages  near  and 
distant  along  the  shore.  The  other,  you  already  have 
seen  from  the  deck  of  the  vessel,  yet  at  sunset 
you  will  find  that  panorama  of  the  city,  villages,  heights 
and  mountains  even  more  beautiful. " 

While  we'  were  exploring  the  city,  the  officers  on  the 
steamer  were  engaged  in  directing  the  taking  on  of  fresh 
supplies  of  coal,  water,  and  provisions,  which  had  been 
purchased  at  Algiers.  During  the  two  days  the  Moltke 
lay  in  the  harbor  fifteen  hundred  tons  of  coal  were 
carried  in  baskets  on  the  shoulders  of  Arabs  from 
barges  into  the  hold  of  the  vessel,  a  slow  method  of 
delivering  compared  with  the  rush  of  the  steam  scoops 
in  New  York  harbor  where  three  thousand  tons  were 
dumped  into  the  bunkers  in  a  few  hours'  time.  Fresh 
water  also  was  brought  from  shore  in  tank  barges  and 
pumped  from  these  into  the  tanks  on  the  steamer. 
The  quantity  of  fresh  water  required  at  this  port  cost  the 
steamship  company,  so  the  engineer  informed  us,  a 
sum  equal  to  four  hundred  dollars.  Also  great  quanti- 
ties of  fresh  fruits  and  vegetables  were  received  on 
board,  one  of  the  most  welcome  things  thus  added  to  our 
bountiful  bill  of  fare  being  the  tender  green  artichoke 
which  in  Algiers  grows  to  perfection. 
M  On  Thursday  afternoon  a  reception  was  held  on  the 
Moltke  and  our  band  gave  a  most  enjoyable  musical 
program  for  the  occasion.  Hundreds  of  well  dressed, 
courteous  French  ladies,  gentlemen,  and  children,  and 


78 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


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some  French  officials  in  uniforms,  came  on  board  to  visit 

the  vessel  which  was  thrown  wide  open  for  their  exam- 
ination. Some  of  the 
officers  of  the  naval 
vessels  also  came  to 
the  reception  and  ex- 
tended a  cordial  invi- 
tation to  the  tourists 
to  visit  the  gunboats. 
This  invitation  was 
accepted  by  some  who 
were  willing  to  spare 
the  time  for  that 
purpose. 

''Less  than  one 
hundred  years  ago 
Algiers  was  a  country 
of  pirates,"  said  one 
of  the  officers  to  a 
group  of  tourists , 
"and  Algerine  cor- 
sairs flying  the  black 
flag  infested  the  Medi- 
terranean coast.  Like 
birds  of  prey  they 
pounced  upon  the 
merchant  vessels  of 
other  nations,  con- 
fiscating the  cargoes, 

seizing  seamen  and  passengers,  and  burning  the  ships. 

They  cast  thousands  of  captives  into  dungeons  and  de- 


A    STREET    IN    OLD   ALGIERS. 


THE  CITY  OF  ALGIERS.  79 

manded  heavy  ransoms  for  their  release.  They  sent 
many  thousands  to  the  markets  to  be  sold, — the  men  to 
be  degraded  to  slavery,  the  women,  praying  for  death, 
to  be  dragged  away  to  harems  of  their  purchasers. 
Among  the  captives  held  for  ransom  were  many  Ameri- 
cans. But  you  are  familiar  with  all  this  ancient 
history." 

"No,  we  are  not,"  replied  one  of  the  ladies;  "I  may 
have  read  it  but  if  so,  it  has  slipped  from  my  mind. 
Why,  we  have  gone  about  the  city  feeling  as  safe  and 
secure  from  harm  and  insult  as  we  did  in  our  home 
cities. " 

"And  you  were  as  safe  in  Algiers  during  the  day  time 
as  A^ou  would  be  in  Paris,  London,  or  New  York.  I 
should  advise  you,  though,  to  keep  off  the  streets  of  this 
and  all  Oriental  cities  after  nightfall.  We  may  be 
proud  to  remember  that  the  United  States  was  one  of 
the  first  countries  to  stop  paying  ransoms  and  to  ad- 
minister a  salutary  reproof.  In  June  of  the  year  18 15 
our  Commodore  Decatur  sailed  into  this  harbor  and  sent 
a  message  to  the  Dey  of  Algiers  demanding  the  release 
of  all  Americans  then  held  in  captivity,  threatening  to 
bombard  the  city  if  the  prisoners  were  not  set  free. 
The  Dey  after  some  demur  yielded  through  fear  of 
bombardment  and  liberated  all  the  Americans ;  but  sent 
a  message  to  the  Commodore  requesting  that  a  tribute 
in  the  shape  of  powder  be  given  him  in  exchange  for  the 
captives.  'If  the  Dey  wants  powder,  he  must  take 
the  balls  with  it,'  Decatur  bravely  replied.  After  that 
the  merchant  vessels  flying  the  American  flag  were  not 
molested.     The    great    destruction    of    ships    and  the 


8o 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


capture  of  Europeans  continued  until  France,  highly 
exasperated,  determined  that  it  must  be  stopped,  and 
the  Moors  punished.  An  expedition  was  sent  to  Algiers 
and  the  country  was  conquered  in  the  year  1830,  since 
then  Algiers  has  been  a  French  colonial  possession." 

Just  as  the  sun  was  dropping  below  the  horizon  filling 
the  air  with  a  golden  light,  the  anchor  was  slowly  raised. 


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LED    THROUGH    A   TROPICAL,    TANGLED   GROWTH. 

A  number  of  the  French  people  who  had  been  visitors 
to  the  Molkte  were  in  a  steam  launch  near  by  waiting 
to  see  our  departure. 

"Adieu,"  "Adieu,"  "Bon  voyage,"  were  the  parting 
salutations,  as  the  French  ladies  waved  handkerchiefs 
and  the  French  men  raised  their  hats. 


THE  CITY  OF  ALGIERS,  8i 

As  the  warships  were  passed,  "Three  cheers  for  the 
Red,  White,  and  Blue"  were  given  with  a  will  amid 
waving  hats,  handkerchiefs,  and  small  flags,  and  our 
greeting  was  answered  by  the  lowering  and  raising  of  the 
Stars  and  Stripes  on  board  the  warships.  Then  our 
great  ship  steamed  slowly  out  of  the  harbor,  passing  the 
the  forts  which  at  the  extremities  of  the  moles  guarded 
the  entrance,  and  the  lighthouse  whose  strong,  steady 
light  was  just- beginning  to  shine. 

As  we  entered  the  open  sea  we  looked  back  with 
regret  at  the  scene  of  beauty  behind  us.  Vessels  fly- 
ing flags  of  many  nationalities  lay  at  anchor  in  the 
harbor  or  at  the  piers.  Above  the  handsome  white 
stone  docks  on  the  sloping  hillside  rose  the  clean-looking 
white  city.  On  the  hill  to  the  right  far  away  in  bold 
relief  stood  the  Church  of  our  Lady  of  Africa.  To  the 
left,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  along  the  shore  of  the 
bay  beyond  the  city,  were  clusters  of  Moorish  houses, 
white  villages,  and  green  plains,  and  on  the  heights 
above,  white  villas  and  hotels  in  the  midst  of  green  foliage. 
In  the  distance  rose  a  range  of  high  hills,  and  far  beyond 
the  gray  peaks  of  the  Atlas  Mountains  bounded  the 
horizon. 

No  picturing  of  that  scene  can  show  the  beauty  of  the 
view  there  presented  to  our  eyes.  But  he  who  has 
visited  Algiers  will  never  forget  the  soft  harmonizing 
colors  of  blue  sky,  white  and  yellow  buildings,  green 
foliage,  and  gray  background. 


CHAPTER  VI. 
THE  ISLAND  OF  MALTA. 

AMONG  the  tourists  were  twenty-one  Knights 
Templar.  These  Knights  took  a  special  in- 
terest in  the  history  of  the  island  of  Malta  and 
the  romantic  story  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  For  the 
benefit  of  those  who  desired  the  information,  a  lecture  on 
Malta  was  delivered  by  a  member  of  our  party  who  was 
familiar  with  the  subject. 

"Know  something  of  the  history  of  the  island," 
advised  the  lecturer,  "and  you  will  appreciate  and  enjoy 
what  3^ou  see  there  more  highly  than  you  would  without 
that  knowledge.  In  the  fortifications,  the  palaces,  the 
churches,  of  this  island  you  will  find  many  memorials 
of  the  Knights  of  Malta,  and  it  may  add  to  your  pleasure 
to  hear  something  about  the  famous  warrior-monks 
before  visiting  these  places." 

Many  of  his  hearers,  taking  the  advice,  made  notes  of 
the  story  as  related  by  him. 

"About  one  thousand  years  ago, "  he  said,  "  the  Order 
of  the  Knights  Hospitallers  was  organized  at  Jerusalem, 
by  Italians.  Its  members  took  vows  of  fraternity, 
chastity,  and  poverty.  The  purpose  of  the  Order  was  to 
erect  hospices  for  the  shelter  of  pilgrims  who  came  to 
visit  the  Holy  Sepulchre  ac  Jerusalem,  and  hospitals 
in  which  to  care  for  the  pilgrims  when  sick.  During 
many  years  of  faithful  service  the  work  of  the  Hospitallers 

(83) 


(83) 


84  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT.     . 

was  supported  by  contributions  from  all  Christendom; 
but  when  the  oppression  of  the  Turks  became  unendur- 
able, the  Knights  took  upon  themselves  vows  to  fight 
in  defense  of  the  Christian  faith,  and  the  religious 
brotherhood  became  a  band  of  saintly  warriors.  This 
band  during  the  time  of  the  Crusades  grew  into  a  great 
militarv^  order  known  as  the  'Knights  of  St.  John.' 
In  the  battles  of  the  Crusades,  the  Knights,  fighting 
against  the  infidels  for  the  possession  of  the  Holy  Land, 
became  renowned  for  great  personal  strength,  dauntless 
courage,  and  daring  heroism. 

"After  the  failure  of  the  Crusades,  the  Knights  were 
expelled  from  Palestine  by  the  victorious  Saracens,  and, 
twenty  years  later,  were  driven  from  the  near-by  island 
of  Cyprus.  Fleeing  to  the  island  of  Rhodes,  they  there 
enjoyed  two  centuries  of  power  and  increasing  prosper- 
ity, during  which  time  the  banner  of  the  cross  remained 
victorious  over  warring  Turks,  Greeks,  and  pirates. 
Then  at  the  end  of  this  period  came  the  memorable 
siege  of  Rhodes.  For  six  months  the  steel-clad  cavaliers 
withstood  the  assaults  of  the  Ottoman  hosts,  and  their 
ponderous  battle  axes  swept  down  the  infidel  assailers 
by  scores.  Personal  strength,  however,  could  not 
endure  the  continual  strain.  The  besieged,  utterly 
worn  out,  were  compelled  to  capitulate  and  leave 
Rhodes;  but  as  a  compliment  to  their  valor,  they  were 
permitted  by  the  Sultan  to  depart  in  honor,  taking 
with  them  all  movable  property  and  treasure. 

"In  the  year  1530,  the  Knights  of  St.  John  found  a 
refuge  on  the  island  of  Malta.  They  grew  in  numbers 
and  importance,  fortified  the  island,  and  resumed  the 


THE  ISLAND  OF  MALTA.  85 

warfare  against  their  hereditary  foes.  Success  at  sea 
and  on  land  resulted  in  the  capture  of  richly  laden 
prizes,  multitudes  of  captives,  and  booty  of  enormous 
value.  The  captives  became  slaves  laboring  on  the 
fortifications  or  straining  at  the  oars.  The  booty 
adorned  the  churches  and  enriched  the  people.  But  as 
power  and  wealth  increased,  the  desire  for  spoils  took 
possession  of  the  hearts  of  the  Knights  and  the  original 
vows  of  humility,  kindness,  and  charity  were  forgotten. 
They  became  proud  and  boastful  seekers  of  plunder  and 
believed  themselves  to  be  invincible.  Their  enemies 
called  them  piraces. 

"In  1565  their  numbers  were  greatly  reduced  during 
a  noted  siege  by  the  Sultan  of  Turkes^  Then  fortune 
smiled  or  frowned  on  them  in  varying  moods  for  many 
years,  whose  story  is  filled  with  romance  and  interest. 
In  1798  the  island  of  Malta,  after  having  been  for  nearly 
three  centuries  in  the  possession  of  the  Knights  of  St. 
John,  was  captured  by  an  invading  French  force,  and 
two  years  later  it  became,  by  conquest,  an  English 
possession. 

"The  fortifications  have  since  then  been  strengthened 
and  equipped  with  modern  armaments,  so  that  the  island 
is  now  considered  an  impregnable  stronghold.  Here, 
as  at  Gibraltar,  an  army  is  stationed  in  the  barracks, 
and  great  quantities  of  provisions  are  kept  in  store  to 
supply  the  garrison  in  case  of  siege.  The  harbor  of 
Valetta  is  deep  and  safe,  and  the  narrow  entrance  is 
commanded  by  three  strong  fortresses.  Here  is  the 
headquarters  of  the  Mediterranean  fleet  of  the  British 
navy.     Here,    also,    are   great   repair   docks,    a   coaling 


86 


A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT 


station  where  huge  stocks  of  coal  are  kept  on  hand,  and 
warehouses  filled  with  naval  supplies. 

"The  island  is  densely  populated,  the  number  of  people 
to  the  square  mile   being  four   times  greater  than  in 


MALTESE    WOMEN     WEAR    PECULIAR    BONNETS. 

England.  The  city  of  Valetta,  the  capital  of  Malta, 
named  after  the  Grand  Master,  Jean  de  La  Vallette,  by 
whom  it  was  founded  in  the  sixteenth  century,  stands 
high  above  the  water  on  a  commanding  promontory." 


THE  ISLAND  OF  MALTA,  S7 

"In  this  condensed  account,"  said  the  lecturer  in 
conclusion,  "I  have  tried  to  give  you  a  few  of  the  main 
facts  relating  to  the  Knights  and  the  island.  Those 
of  you  who  are  interested  in  the  romantic  history  may 
read  it  more  fully  when  you  have  leisure  after  your 
return  home. " 

The  Moltke  cast  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Valetta  about 
six  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  twenty-first  of  Febru- 
ary. After  we  had  partaken  of  an  early  breakfast, 
Maltese  boatmen  in  scarlet  caps  and  sashes,  who  stood 
up  while  handling  their  oars,  rowed  us  to  the  shore. 
Their  brightly  painted  boats  had  peculiar  carved  wooden 
posts  erected  at  prow  and  stern  and  white  awnings 
overhead.  Walking  up  a  sloping,  zigzag  pathway, 
constructed  in  a  passage  cut  down  through  the  high 
cliffs,  we  ascended  from  the  busy  docks  to  the  heights 
above.  At  the  summit  a  Maltese  gentleman  kindly 
directed  us  on  our  way  to  the  Queen's  Garden  located 
directly  above  the  landing  place. 

From  the  parapets  of  this  place  a  magnificent  and 
interesting  view  of  the  harbor  was  obtained.  Not  far 
away,  but  hundreds  of  feet  below  us,  the  Moltke  lay, 
encircled  by  the  white  awning-covered  boats.  Eight 
large  battleships  and  a  dozen  cruisers  and  gunboats, 
all  painted  black,  were  lying  peacefully  at  anchor. 
Steamships  and  sailing  vessels  at  the  docks  were  dis- 
charging cargoes,  or  were  lying  in  the  bay  awaiting 
their  turn  to  unload.  Steam  launches  were  busily 
flying  from  one  point  to  another,  and  little  ferry  boats 
were  constantly  crossing  and  re -crossing  the  bay.  The 
harbor  was  surrounded  by  high  cliffs  and  old  gray  forti- 


88 


A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


fications.  At  the  entrance  to  the  bay  stood  a  tall 
lighthouse . and  a  frowning  fortress,  the  one  for  guidance, 
the  other  for  protection.  Through  the  entrance  a  ship 
with  spread  sails  was  entering,  and  beyond,  the  sun- 
light shone  on  the  beautiful  blue  waters  af  the  Mediter- 
ranean. 

The  streets  of  Valetta  were  full  of  life  that  day.     In 
repl\^  to  inquiries  we  were  informed  that  on  the  follow- 


ATTRACTIVE  STORES  LINE  THE  "STRADA  REALE." 

ing  day,  the  Sunday  preceding  Lent,  a  festa,  or  carnival, 
lasting  three  days,  would  begin.  During  the  festa, 
business  would  be  suspended,  and  the  people,  disguised 
in  masks  and  fanciful  costumes,  would  engage  in  most 
ludicrous  and  extraordinary  antics  and  play  all  manner 
of  practical  jokes  on  one  another,  showering  the  passers- 


THE  ISLAND  OF  MALTA.  89 

by  gently  witn  confetti  and  flowers,  or  pelting  them 
stingingly  with  dried  peas  and  beans.  Many  children, 
impatient  for  the  morrow  to  come,  were  already  parading 
the  streets  arrayed  in  their  costumes. 

Attractive  stores  line  the  "Strada  Reale,"  the  main 
shopping  street.  In  these  stores  laces,  gold  and  silver 
filagree  work,  jewelry,  and  embroidered  muslins  were 
the  principal  wares  sought  by  the  tourists.  The  ladies 
of  our  party  were  particularly  anxious  to  secure  pieces 
of  Maltese  lace,  a  special  hand-made  product  noted  for 
the  excellence  of  its  quality,  the  making  of  which  gives 
employment  to  thousands  of  the  inhabitants.  In  trad- 
ing with  the  Maltese  merchants,  we  soon  found  that  the 
prices  asked  by  the  dealers  were  about  twice  the  amount 
the  customer  was  expected  to  pay,  and  that  bargain- 
ing was  as  necessary  in  Malta  as  in  Algiers. 

Almost  all  the  costumes  we  saw  on  the  streets  were  of 
the  English  style,  but  the  varied  uniforms  of  soldiers  and 
the  distinctive  garments  of  Greeks,  Turks,  Spaniards, 
and  Arabs  added  color  and  interest  to  the  scene.  The 
Maltese  women  wear  immense  bonnets,  called  faldettas. 
These  peculiar  bonnets  have  long  skirts  which  reach 
to  the  waist  and  are  totally  black  without  color  or 
ornament.  As  the  majority  of  the  inhabitants  are 
Roman  Catholics,  we  saw  many  priests  and  monks  who 
wore  black  robes  and  very  broad-brimmed  black  hats 
turned  up  at  the  sides. 

The  Maltese  are  lovers  of  flowers,  which  are  raised  in 
profusion.  At  the  corners  of  the  principal  streets  were 
small  fanciful  buildings,  a  few  feet  in  diameter,  in  which 
dark  eyed  brunettes   offered  flowers  and  bonbons   for 


go  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

sale.  The  people  also  love  music.  In  the  Opera  House, 
an  elaborate  structure,  which,  we  were  told,  cost  a 
quarter  of  a  million  dollars,  Grand  Opera  is  given  three 
times  a  week  for  six  months  in  the  year. 

We  visited  the  old  church  of  St.  John,  which  was  built 
three  centuries  ago  and  lavishly  adorned  out  of  the 
proceeds  of  plunder  that  had  been  taken  from  infidels 
and  pirates.  The  tower  above  the  church  contains  a 
chime  of  ten  bells,  and  the  clock  on  the  tower  has  a 
triple  face,  one  face  showing  the  hour  of  the  day,  one 
showing  the  day  of  the  week,  and  the  third,  the  da 3^  of 
the  month.  The  heavy  doors  were  open,  but  a  curtain 
of  matting  hung  over  the  entrance.  A  ragged,  barefoot 
boy  ran  before  us,  and,  drawing  aside  the  matting  that 
we  might  enter,  extended  his  hand  for  a  penny.  We 
walked  over  the  beautiful  inlaid  mosaic  marble  floor, 
and  beheld  handsomely  painted  ceilings  with  life-size 
figures  overhead,  and  richly  decorated  walls  and  pillars 
around  us.  A  priest  with  pride  pointed  out  the  famous 
paintings  on  the  walls,  the  bronze  and  the  marble 
statues  around  the  sides,  and,  in  the  various  chapels, 
the  three  huge  iron  keys  which  opened  the  gates  of 
Jerusalem,  Acre,  and  Rhodes,  and  the  gates  of  solid 
silver  in  front  of  the  richly  decorated  altar.  As  we 
stood  before  the  silver  gates  our  guide  told  us  his  little 
story : 

"When  the  French  captured  Malta  in  1798  they 
carried  away  as  bootv  the  most  valuable  possessions  of 
the  church  in  the  form  of  precious  jewels,  silver  statues, 
golden  vessels,  valuable  vestments,  and  works  of  art. 
The  Emperor  Napoleon  with  his  own  hand  took  a  most 


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(91) 


92  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

valuable  diamond  from  the  finger  of  the  jeweled  glove 
which  covered  the  sacred  relic,  the  hand  of  St.  John,  and 
placed  it  on  his  own  finger.  The  Emperor  also  took 
the  diamond  mounted  sword,  which  had  been  carried 
by  Valette,  and  buckled  it  to  his  side.  These  silver 
gates,  too,  would  have  been  carried  away  but  for  the 
forethought  of  a  priest  who  painted  them  black  and  so 
concealed  their  value." 

In  the  nave  of  this  church  we  tramped  over  hundreds 
of  marble  slabs  which  have  been  placed  among  the 
mosaics  in  the  floor  as  memorials  of  the  knights  and 
nobles  who  are  buried  underneath.  These  flat  tomb- 
stones are  adorned  with  representations  of  coats-of- 
arms,  musical  instruments,  angels,  crowns,  palms, 
skeletons,  and  other  odd  devices.  But  in  the  crypt 
underneath,  whither  we  were  next  conducted,  majestic 
monuments  of  elaborate  design  mark  the  resting 
places  of  the  most  noted  Grand  Masters  of  the  Order, 
the  tomb  of  Grand  Master  Cottoner  being  one  of  the 
most  imposing.  In  the  sacristy  we  gazed  at,  but  were 
not  permitted  co  touch,  the  beautifully  illuminated 
missals,  the  finely  woven  pieces  of  ancient  embroidery, 
and  the  splendid  robes  of  former  Grand  Masters. 

"The  tapestry  of  the  Lord's  Supper  and  many  other 
wonderful  tapestries  are  locked  in  that  chamber," 
said  the  priest,  pointing  to  a  closed  door,  "and  are  only 
exhibited  in  June  each  year.  " 

At  one  of  the  altars  in  a  side  chapel  worshipers  knelt 
before  a  piece  of  the  true  cross;  but  the  relics  regarded 
as  most  precious  in  the  custody  of  the  Church  of  St. 
John,  a  thorn  from  the  Savior's  crown,  portions  of  the 


THE  ISLAND  OF  MALTA.  93 

bones  of  three  apostles,  one  of  the  stones  cast  at  St. 
Stephen,  the  right  foot  of  Lazarus,  and  a  fragment  of 
the  cradle  of  the  infant  Jesus,  are  guarded  with  great 
care  and  rarely  exposed  to  the  gaze  of  curious  eyes. 

In  the  Governor's  Palace  the  tourists  spent  a  short 
time.  The  walls  of  the  Council  Chamber  are  hung 
with  rare  tapestry  which  has  retained  its  color  and 
beauty  for  nearly  three  centuries.  The  dining  room 
and  corridors  are  decorated  with  paintings  of  grim- 
faced  Grand  Masters  of  the  past;  and  the  gorgeous 
ball  room  contains  a  throne  on  which  these  same  rulers 
sat  in  state  surrounded  by  pomp  and  splendor.  In  the 
great  hall  of  the  Armory  are  rows  of  figures  clad  m  the 
antique  armor  worn  by  the  Knights,  together  with  steel 
gloves,  helmets,  and  coats  of  mail,  inlaid  with  gold  and 
silver;  and  around  this  hall  are  arranged  the  crossbows, 
arquebuses,  spears,  pikes,  swords,  battle  axes,  and  old 
battle  flags.  There  with  the  treasures  are  the  old 
silver  trumpet  that  sounded  the  retreat  from  Rhodes, 
and  the  faded  parchment  manuscript,  or  Papal  edict, 
which  sanctioned  the  gift  of  the  island  by  Charles  V. 
of  Germans^  to  the  Knights;  and  among  the  trophies 
are  the  jeweled  coat  of  mail  and  weapons  of  a  famous 
Algerine  corsair,  a  cannon  curiously  constructed  of  a 
copper  tube  wound  with  tarred  rope,  and  many  torn  and 
blood-stained,  crescent-mounted  standards  which  in 
the  hand-to-hand  conflicts  had  been  captured  from  the 
Turks. 

"What  soldier  of  the  present  day  could  march  or  even 
ride  any  distance  so  encumbered  with  steel?"  remarked 
one  of  the  tourists  as  we  stood  before  an  emblazoned 


94 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


suit  of  mail  that  had  been  worn  by  one  of  the  Grand 
Masters  of  the  Knights.  "To  handle  these  heavy- 
battle  axes  or  long  spears  for  stroke  after  stroke  or 
thrust  after  thrust   during   the   long   hours  the   battle 


THE    CLOCK    ABOVE    THE    ANCIENT    CHURCH    HAS    A    TRIPLE    FACE. 

raged  must  have  required  muscles  of  steel  and  wonderful 
powers  of  endurance." 

"These  breastplates  and  helmets  and  shields,  which 
were  worn  by  the  Knights  to  protect  them  from  the 
arrows  and  spears  of  their  enemies,"  said  one  of  the 
ladies,  as  she  looked  at  the  old  armor,  "enable  me  to 
understand  better  what  St.  Paul  meant  when  he  wrote 


THE  ISLAND  OF  MALTA.  05 

to  the  Ephesians :  Tut  on  the  whole  armor  of  God  that 
you  may  be  able  to  stand  against  the  wiles  of  the  devil, ' 
and  'all  the  fiery  darts  of  the  wicked. '  The  old  monk- 
soldiers  must  have  interpreted  that  command  literally 
when  they  went  out  to  fight  the  infidels." 

After  completing  our  sight-seeing  in  the  city  of 
Valetta,  a  little  train  of  cars  on  a  narrow-gauge  railroad 
carried  us  a  distance  of  six  miles  to  the  older  city  of 
Citta  Vecchia.  The  land  along  the  way  as  far  as  we 
could  see  was  divided  into  small  plots  ranging  from 
about  half  an  acre  to  two  acres  in  size.  Each  plot 
was  surrounded  by  stone  walls  from  six  to  ten  feet  in 
height,  many  of  which  were  broken  and  dilapidated. 
We  were  told  that,  although  the  climate  of  the  island  is 
quite  mild,  violent  winds  frequently  blow  over  it,  and 
these  walls  were  erected  to  protect  the  fig,  orange, 
lemon,  and  other  fruit  trees  from  destruction.  Pro- 
tected from  the  high  winds,  these  trees  yield  abundantly ; 
and,  in  the  fertile  soil  of  these  plots,  two  or  three  crops 
of  vegetables  are  raised  each  year.  Much  of  the  land 
was  rocky  and  uncultivated.  Very  few  trees  were  seen 
and  those  were  dwarfed.  One  species  of  evergreen 
tree,  called  the  Carob,  grew  only  ten  feet  in  height,  but 
spread  to  three  times  that  in  breadth.  In  some  neglec- 
ted spots  the  prickly  pear  grew  in  rank  masses.  The 
houses  along  the  way,  built  of  yellow  or  gray  stone,  had 
a  weather-beaten  look,  and  the  yards  around  them  were 
enclosed  with  high  walls.  The  small  square  windows 
in  the  houses  and  the  flat  stone  roofs  with  enclosing 
parapets  reminded  us  of  pictures  of  the  houses  in  Bible 
stories. 


96  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

In  Citta  Vecchia  the  two  principal  attractions  were  the 
Cathedral  of  St.  Paul  and  the  Grotto  of  St.  Paul.  The 
Cathedral  is  said  to  be  built  on  the  site  of  the  house  of 
Publius,  the  governor  of  the  island,  who  entertained 
and  lodged  St.  Paul  for  three  days  after  he  was  ship- 
wrecked on  this  island,  which  in  the  Bible  is  called 
Melita.  The  Grotto  is  said  to  have  been  occupied  by 
St.  Paul  during  his  three  months'  stay  on  the  island. 
About  four  miles  from  the  Cathedral  is  the  bay  of  St. 
Paul,  where  the  apostle  was  wrecked  while  on  his  way 
to  Rome.  There  is  the  little  creek  in  which  the  sailors 
tried  to  guide  the  storm-tossed  vessel  and  the  shore  to 
which  they  escaped  "on  boards  and  on  broken  pieces 
of  the  ship . ' ' 

In  Citta  Vecchia  we  were  shown  the  mosaic  pavement 
and  the  decorated  frieze  of  an  old  Roman  house  supposed 
to  be  over  two  thousand  years  old,  which  had  been 
uncovered  at  a  considerable  distance  below  the  surface 
while  an  excavation  was  being  made.  Notwithstanding 
their  age  the  old  mosaic  pavement  and  frieze  were  in 
good  condition. 

An  interesting  day  of  sight-seeing  closed  with  a  drive 
in  Valetta  through  the  humbler  part  of  the  city  and 
down  a  long  inclined  street  which  led  to  the  docks. 
At  nightfall  as  our  steamship  moved  eastward  the 
lights  of  Malta's  stronghold  gradually  faded  from  our 
sight,  but  the  gleam  of  its  lighthouse  followed  us  for 
many  a  mile. 


CHAPTER  VII 
ATHENS  AND  THE  ACROPOLIS. 

THE  sun  was  just  appearing  in  the  east  as  we  ap- 
proached the  seaport  of  the  Grecian  capital. 
Through  the  mists  of  the  dawning  day  we  could 
make  out  dimly,  ahead  of  us,  only  bleak  bare  hills.  As 
the  Moltke  steamed  through  the  straits  we  saw  a  light- 
house and  a  few  buildings  on  the  shore  and  over  the  low 
hill  on  our  right  the  tops  of  masts ;  but  when  the  vessel 
had  entered  through  a  narrow  passage  between  the  moles 
extending  from  either  side,  and  had  anchored  in  the 
centre  of  the  well  protected  and  commodious  harbor  of 
Piraeus,  we  gazed  on  a  scene  of  animation  and  activity. 
The  bay  was  filled  with  shipping  and  the  shore  lined 
with  warehouses  where  the  stevedores  were  already 
busily  engaged  in  lading  or  discharging  cargoes.  On 
each  side  of  the  Moltke,  little  more  than  a  stone's  throw 
away,  lay  gray  battleships,  cruisers,  torpedo  boats, 
destroyers,  and  other  naval  craft. 

"What  war  vessels  are  those?"  was  the  question 
asked  eagerly  by  many  passengers. 

"The  white  flag  with  the  blue  St.  Andrew's  cross 
floating  over  that  warship  is  the  Russian  national 
emblem,"  patiently  replied  one  of  the  officers  of  our 
steamer,  "and  so  I  conclude  that  these  vessels  compose 
the  Russian  Mediterranean  squadron." 

A  band  on  the  flagship  began  to  play  and  the  Russian 

(97) 


98 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


sailors  in  clean  white  suits  were  seen  forming  in  lines 
on  the  decks  of  the  vessels,  evidently  for  inspection  or 
morning  roll-call.  On  the  rigging  above  the  sailors' 
heads,  swaying  in  the  breeze,  were  hundreds  of  white 
suits,  washed  and  hung  out  to  dry. 

Soon  fifty  or  more  large  row  boats  were  plying  around 
our  steamer  in  readiness  to  convey  us  to  the  railroad 


HUNDREDS    OF     WHITE    SUITS     HUNG    OUT    TO    DRY. 

station  at  the  upper  end  of  the  harbor  about  a  mile  away. 
As  we  approached  the  shore  in  these  boats  we  saw  on  the 
wharf  at  Piraeus  a  motley  crowd  of  dirty-handed,  bare- 
footed, ill-clothed  men  and  boys.  It  seemed  as  if  all 
the  idle  and  vagabond  population  of  the  city  had  as- 
sembled to  lounge  lazily  in  the  sun,  hoping,  perhaps,  to 


ATHENS  AND  THE  ACROPOLIS. 


99 


obtain  some  small  coins  from  the  tourists  during  the 
transfer  from  boat  to  cars.  If  this  was  their  hope  they 
were  disappointed.  All  arrangements  for  the  welfare 
of  the  Moltke  tourists  had  been  carefully  made  in  ad- 
vance, and,  as  there  was  no  baggage  to  be  carried,  the 
services  of  the  dirty -handed  men  were  not  required. 

"Are  these  vagabonds  and  tramps  the  descendants 
of  the  noble   Greeks  whom  we  have   honored  all  our 


STRENGTH    AND    SIMPLICITY    RATHER    THAN    BEAUTY. 


lives?"  sadly  remarked  a  minister  in  our  boat.  "Can 
these  be  the  offspring  of  the  great  orators  who  electrified 
their  hearers,  or  of  the  famous  architects  and  artists 
whose  names  are  immortal?  Are  these  swarthy-faced, 
plain-featured  idlers  the  representatives  of  the  Greek 
beauty  of  form  and  feature?" 

In  preparation  for  a  visit  to  these  historic  shores  we 
had  filled  our  minds  with  tales  of  heroism  and  visions 


loo  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

of  the  beautiful;  now  the  sight  of  this  bare-footed 
throng,  so  different  from  the  pictures  we  had  formed  in 
our  minds,  was  a  severe  shock  to  our  imagination. 

"These  vagabonds  do  not  represent  the  Greek  race," 
responded  another  who  had  traveled  in  that  country 
before;  "they  are  merely  the  dregs  of  the  people,  a 
class  that  may  be  found  in  any  large  city  and  especially 
in  the  seaports. " 

The  distance  from  Piraeus  to  the  city  of  Athens  is  but 
five  miles.  From  the  windows  of  the  little  cars  we  could 
see  that  the  valley  through  which  we  passed  was  a  suc- 
cession of  well  cultivated  fields,  vineyards,  and  gardens. 
A  white  road,  almost  parallel  to  the  railroad,  traversed 
the  vallev.  Gray -green  trees  in  the  distance  indicated  a 
district  of  olive  orchards. 

At  a  station  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city  we  left  the 
train  and  followed  an  bid  guide  to  visit  the  Theseum,  or 
Temple  of  Theseus,  a  large  edifice  built  in  simple  Doric 
style.  The  plain  columns'  and  unadorned  pediments 
express  strength  and  simplicity  rather  than  beauty. 
Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  twenty -four  centuries 
have  passed  since  its  erection,  this  temple  is  noted  as 
being  the  best  preserved  of  all  the  ancient  buildings  of 
Greece.  A  short  time,  however,  sufficed  for  a  view  of 
the  plain  exterior  and  an  entrance  into  the  gloomy 
interior. 

Then  proceeding  along  a  fine  modern  road,  built  over 
the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city,  traces  of  which  were  seen 
in  adjacent  excavations,  we  passed,  on  our  right,  an 
open  plateau  on  the  rocks  where  an  audience  of  eight 
or  ten  thousand  might  assemble.     This  was  the  Pynx 


(lOl) 


UNIVERSITY 


I02 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


of  ancient  times,  a  gathering  place  of  the  people.  A 
flight  of  steps  hewn  in  the  stone  at  one  side  of  this 
plateau  leads  up  to  a  platform  cut  in  the  rock.  From 
this  rock,  named  the  Platform  of  Demosthenes,  great 
orators  addressed  the  multitude,  stirring  their  country- 
men to  deeds  of  valor.  Beyond  the  Pynx,  a  cave  with 
gates  of  rusty  grated  iron  was  pointed  out  as  the  prison 


ONCE    THE    MAGNIFICENT     MARBLE    STAIRCASE. 

in   which   the  noble   Socrates   was   incarcerated   before 
being  condemned  to  drink  the  fatal  hemlock. 

Farther  up  the  slope  the  guide  pointed  to  a  small 
rock  elevation  on  our  left  and  said:  "That  is  the 
Areopagus,  or  Mars  Hill,  from  which  the  Apostle  Paul 
made  his  appeal  to  the  idolatrous  Athenians.  He  prob- 
ably ascended  those  sixteen  steps  that  you  see  hewn  in 
the  rock.  Where  we  are  standing  now,  the  people 
stood  to  listen.     From  that  elevation  Paul  could  view 


ATHENS  AND  THE  ACROPOLIS. 


103 


the  avenues  leading  to  the  Acropolis,  avenues  adorned 
with  statues  in  honor  of  gods  and  goddesses  and  famous 
heroes. " 

As  we  stood  there,  we  could  almost  hear  Paul's  words: 


IN    HONOR    OF    NIKE,    THE    GODDESS    OF    VICTORY. 

"Ye  men  of  Athens,  I  perceive  that  in  all  things  ye  are 
too  superstitious.  For  as  I  passed  by,  and  beheld  the 
gods  that  ye  worship,  I  found  an  altar  with  this  inscrip- 
tion,  'To   the   Unknown    God. ' — God   dwelleth   not   in 


I04  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

temples  made  with  hands. — We  ought  not  to  think 
that  the  Godhead  is  hke  unto  gold,  or  silver,  or  stone, 
graven  b}^  art  and  man's  device."  The  altar  to  the 
unknown  god  to  which  Paul  referred  may  have  been 
one  of  the  many  altars  within  sight  of  the  elevation  on 
which  he  stood. 

After  we  left  Mars  Hill  a  few  minutes'  walk  brought 
us  to  the  foot  of  a  long  flight  of  ruined  steps,  at  the  top 
of  which  stood  broken  marble  columns.  Before  us  was 
the  Acropolis,  the  highest  point  of  the  city,  a  rocky 
eminence  with  inaccessible  cliffs  on  three  sides.  The 
only  approach  to  its  summit,  which  is  about  two  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  modern  city,  is  on  the  south- 
west side,  being  reached  by  the  avenues  we  had  followed 
up  the  gradual  slope  past  Mars  Hill. 

"On  this  height,"  said  the  guide,  "the  Athenians, 
during  the  reign  of  Pericles  in  the  golden  age  of  Greece, 
erected  a  temple  to  their  patron  deity,  Minerva,  the 
goddess  of  wisdom.  And  to  this  goddess,  named  also 
Athena,  who,  as  they  asserted,  sprang  from  the  brain 
of  Jupiter  a  mature  woman  in  complete  armor,  they 
looked  for  protection.  For  her  they  offered  their 
choicest  gifts,  yet  they  did  not  neglect  the  multitude  of 
other  gods  whom  they  feared  to  offend.  " 

The  old  guide  was  well  informed,  but  his  English 
was  rather  difficult  to  understand.  He  was  inter- 
rupted a  number  of  times  until  one  of  the  tourists,  a 
college  professor,  undertook  the  task  of  assisting  him 
in  the  story. 

■'These  dilapidated  stone  steps,"  said  the  professor, 
'formed   once    the   magnificent   marble   staircase   that 


GIGANTIC    STATUES    OF    WOMEN    UPHOLD    THE    CORNICE. 

(105) 


io6  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

led  to  the  gateway  of  the  Acropolis.  The  staircase  was 
seventy  feet  in  width;  in  the  centre  was  a  sloping 
carriageway  up  which  chariots  could  be  driven.  It  was 
built  by  Pericles  four  hundred  years  before  the  Christian 
era.  Statues  of  wonderful  beauty,  by  famous  sculp- 
tors, were  arranged  along  the  steps.  At  times  of  great 
rejoicing,  as  after  a  victory,  triumphal  processions 
ascended  these  flights  to  present  offerings  to  the  gods, 
or  to  deposit  in  the  treasury  of  the  temple  the  spoils 
taken  from  their  enemies  and  to  offer  sacrifices  and 
worship  to  their  protecting  goddess.  The  Propylaea, 
or  grand  entrance  hall  and  gateway  to  the  Acropolis, 
stood  at  the  head  of  the  stairway ;  these  broken  columns 
are  all  that  remain  of  one  of  the  most  imposing  structures 
of  that  golden  age.  " 

"Keep  close  to  the  professor  and  never  mind  the 
guide,"  urged  one  of  our  companions.  We  followed 
her  suggestion. 

"This  small  building  on  our  right  with  four  graceful 
Ionic  columns  in  front,"  continued  the  professor,  "is 
the  Temple  of  the  Wingless  Victory,  so  called  because 
it  was  erected  by  the  Athenians  in  honor  of  Nike,  the 
goddess  of  Victory.  The  statue  of  Nike  which  they 
placed  within  the  temple,  bore  in  her  hand  the  palm  of 
victory  and  upheld  the  wreath  of  laurel,  but  lacked 
the  customary  wings.  The  Athenians  hoped  that 
without  wings  victory  might  never  depart  from  the 
shores  of  Greece." 

"The  building  to  our  left,"  said  the  professor  as  we 
moved  on,  "was  named  the  Erechtheum  after  the 
Attic   hero  Erechtheus,  and   once    contained    a  seated 


(io7) 


io8  A  TRIP  rO  THE  ORIENT. 

figure  of  the  goddess  Athena.  These  six  gigantic  statues 
of  women  upholding  the  cornice  of  the  porch  are  the 
Caryatides  and  deserve  a  careful  examination;  for, 
although  carefully  prepared  casts  of  the  Caryatides 
may  be  seen  m  some  of  the  large  museums,  no  cast  can 
be  a  perfecc  representation  of  the  original.  One  of 
these  figures,  as  you  may  easily  see,  is  onh^  a  copy,  the 
original  having  been  carried  away  to  England  by  Lord 
Elgin  and  given  to  the  British  Museum.  The  marble 
columns  on  the  other  side  of  the  Erechtheum  are  con- 
sidered the  best  examples  in  existence  of  the  Ionic 
style  of  architecture. " 

Near  the  Erechtheum  we  passed  the  foundation  on 
which  had  stood  a  colossal  bronze  figure  of  Athena, 
sixty  feet  in  height,  holding  in  her  hand  a  spear  tipped 
with  gold,  the  point  of  which  could  be  seen  by  the 
ancient  mariners  far  out  at  sea.  Making  our  way 
across  the  summit  of  the  Acropolis  around  pieces  of 
broken  columns,  trampling  over  fragments  of  decora- 
tions, and  passing  foundations  of  missing  statues,  we 
stood  in  front  of  the  Parthenon,  the  temple  which  had 
been  erected  to  the  patron  deity  of  the  Athenians.  We 
thought  that  the  professor  might  weary  of  answering 
questions,  but  he  seemed  glad  to  voice  the  thoughts  that 
were  arising  in  his  mind. 

"In  the  harmonious  proportions  of  this  stately 
edifice,"  he  said,  "the  peerless  genius  of  the  architect 
Ictinus,  who  designed  the  structure,  is  revealed,  and  in 
the  delicate  finish  of  the  smallest  details  of  the  sculp- 
tured work,  the  wonderful  skill  of  the  artists  who 
carried  out  the  master's  design  is  shown.     We  hardly 


ATHENS  AND  THE  ACROPOLIS.  109 

know  which  to  admire  more,  the  matchless  genius  of 
the  designer,  or  the  marvelous  skill  of  the  artists.  Our 
poet  Emerson  truly  says: 

"Earth  proudly  wears  the  Parthenon 
As  the  best  gem  upon  her  throne." 

During  a  pause  for  critical  examination  of  the  front 
of  the  temple,  the  amateur  photographers  of  the  party 
placed  their  cameras  in  position. 

"Place  a  group  of  people  in  the  foreground,  "  suggested 
the  professor.  "You  see  that  the  marble  steps  are  nearly 
two  feet  in  height,  and  without  some  object  for  com- 
parison, these  steps  in  a  picture  will  appear  to  be  only 
of  ordinary  size,  thus  an  adequate  idea  of  the  size  of  the 
temple  will  not  be  given.  When  you  see  any  picture  of 
the  Parthenon  notice  the  truth  of  my  suggestion. 

"There  were,  as  you  see  at  this  end  now,"  continued 
our  instructor, "  eight  white  marble  columns  at  each  end 
and  seventeen  columns  along  each  side.  The  columns 
on  the  sides  are  mostly  broken  now  or  altogether  gone, 
and  the  color  has  changed  from  white  to  this  soft  golden 
yellow  tint.  The  carved  marble  frieze,  which,  over  five 
hundred  feet  in  length,  extended  around  the  building, 
was  the  work  of  Phidias  and  has  never  been  surpassed 
in  beauty  by  any  sculpture  of  the  kind  in  the  world. 
And  these  fluted  columns  are,  in  grace  and  proportion, 
the  noblest  examples  of  the  Doric  style  of  architecture.  " 

"But,  in  the  interior,"  said  the  professor,  becoming 
more  enthusiastic,  "surrounded  by  statues  and  works  of 
art  in  marble,  bronze,  ebony,  ivory,  and  gold,  stood  the 
crowning  glory  of  the  Parthenon,  the  famous  colossal 


no  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

statue  of  the  goddess  Athena  Parthenos,  Athena  the 
Virgin,  forty  feet  in  height,  made  of  ivory  and  gold  under 
the  direction  of  Phidias.  The  Caryatides  as  we  looked 
at  them  awhile  ago  appeared  gigantic  in  size,  but  they 
are  only  eight  feet  in  height.  The  height  of  the  statue 
of  i\.thena  was  equal  to  five  Caryatides  one  above  the 
other.  Let  me  read  you  the  description  of  the  statue 
by  an  old  Greek  historian,  Pausanias. " 

The  professor,  drawing  a  note  book  from  his  pocket, 
read  as  follows:  "The  image  itself  is  made  of  ivory  and 
gold.  Its  helmet  is  surmounted  in  the  middle  by  the 
figure  of  a  sphinx,  and  on  either  side  of  the  helmet  are 
griffins  wrought  in  relief.  The  image  of  Athena  stands 
upright,  clad  in  a  garment  that  reaches  to  her  feet;  on 
her  breast  is  the  head  of  Medusa  wrought  in  ivory.  She 
holds  a  Victory  about  four  cubits  high  in  one  hand,  and 
in  the  other  hand  a  spear.  At  her  feet  lies  a  shield,  and 
near  the  spear  is  a  serpent. " 

"The  Victory  referred  to  by  Pausanius,"  said  the 
professor,  replacing  his  note  book,  "was  an  image  of  the 
goddess  of  Victory  half  the  height  of  the  Caryatides, 
which  we  refer  to  for  comparison.  The  size  of  the 
statue  held  in  Athena's  hand  helps  us  to  realize  the 
height  of  the  colossal  figure.  " 

The  Parthenon  contained  also  a  treasury  in  which 
the  Athenians  deposited  the  immense  treasures  and 
spoils  taken  from  their  enemies.  In  the  course  of  cen- 
turies, however,  the  growing  wealth  and  power  of 
Athens  incurred  the  jealousy  and  wrath  of  other  nations. 
The  city  was  conquered  and  ravaged  many  times.  The 
Persians  ingloriously  failed  in  their  attempt,  but   the 


(ill) 


112  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

Romans,  victorious  under  Nero,  despoiled  this  temple 
and  carried  away  hundreds  of  bronze  statues  and  works 
of  art  to  grace  the  Emperor's  triumphal  entry  into 
Rome.  Other  Roman  conquerors,  following  Nero's 
example,  exhibited  to  the  applauding  multitudes  in  the 
streets  of  Rome  long  trains  of  spoils,  consisting  of  the 
rarest  paintings,  ornaments,  and  bronzes  torn  from  the 
Parthenon.  Goths,  Normans,  Franks,  Venetians,  and 
Vandals  successively  plundered  the  city,  stripping  away 
the  decorations  of  gold  and  silver  from  columns  and 
walls,  and  breaking  from  their  foundations  the  statues 
that  adorned  the  plateau  of  the  Acropolis.  The  Turks 
carried  off  shiploads  of  marble  and  bronzes  to  Constan- 
tinople. England  also  enriched  the  British  Museum 
with  many  choice  marbles  from  the  Acropolis — to 
preserve  them.  Lord  Elgin  explained.  " 

The  professor  paused  for  a  moment  and  his  hearers 
made  use  of  the  time  to  express  some  very  decided 
opinions  with  reference  to  Lord  Elgin. 

"But  the  culminating  disaster  to  the  Parthenon 
occurred  in  the  year  1687,"  continued  the  professor, 
resuming  his  story  with  as  much  sadness  in  his  voice  as 
if  the  disaster  had  been  a  personal  loss.  "Greece  was 
then  under  the  rule  of  the  Sultan,  and  the  Parthenon 
was  used  by  his  army  as  a  powder  magazine.  The 
Venetians  at  war  with  the  Turks,  besieging  Athens, 
bombarded  the  city.  A  shell  descended  into  the  Par- 
thenon, and  in  a  moment's  time  the  most  magnificent 
architectural  structure  of  ancient  times,  the  pride  of 
centuries,  lay  shattered  in  the  ruins  we  see  before  us.  " 

"The   Parthenon  in  twentv-four  centuries  has   seen 


("3) 


114 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


many  religious  changes.  Built  first  as  a  temple  of 
idolatr3%  it  became  under  the  Romans  a  Roman  Catholic 
Cathedral,  under  the  Greeks  again  a  Greek  Christian 
Church,  and  then  under  the  Sultan's  rule  a  Mohammedan 
Mosque." 

The  professor  wished  to  apologize  for  detaining  us 
with  the  length  of  his  explanations  but  he  was  over- 


THE   THEATRE   OF   BACCHUS    HAS    TIERS    OF    STONE    SEATS. 

whelmed  with  expressions  of  appreciation  for  his  kind- 
ness. 

"  Why, "  said  one  of  the  tourists,  "we  have  sailed  half 
way  around  the  world  to  see  these  ruins,  and  yet  some 
of  us  have  so  neglected  history  and  mythology  that,  we 
are  ashamed  to  say,  our  knowledge  of  the  history  of 


ATHENS  AND  THE  ACROPOLIS. 


115 


Greece  and  the  stories  of  its  heroes  is  extremely  limited. 
I  am  indeed  grateful  and  trust  that  you  will  be  patient 
with  our  ignorance." 

After  walking  through  the  small  museum  on  the 
Acropolis  where  a  number  of  interesting  relics  are  on 
exhibition,  we  lingered  awhile  on  a  little  platform  at  the 


THE    FRONT    OF    THE    STAGE    CARVED    WITH    GROTESQUE    FIGURES. 

northeast  corner  of  the  Acropolis  from  which  an  excellent 
view  of  the  city  may  be  oVjtained.  As  seen  from  this 
view-point  the  predominating  color  of  the  city  is  yellow. 
The  buildings  erected  of  stone,  and  plastered  or  frescoed, 
are  white,  or  yellow,  or  light  pink,  or  combinations  of 
yellow  and  white,  and  the  roofs  appear  to  be  covered 
with  yellow  tiles.     Below  us  to  the  right  we  saw  the 


ii6  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

ruined  columns  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter,  and  the  white 
palace  and  the  royal  gardens  of  the  king.  Across  the 
valley  beyond  the  city  we  could  see  the  prominent  steep 
rock  named  Lycabettus  with  the  chapel  of  St.  George 
on  the  summit,  and  ten  miles  away  we  could  make  out 
dimly  Mt.  Pentelicus,  from  which  all  the  white  marble 
for  the  temples  was  quarried,  and  Mt.  Hymettus,  in  a 
region  noted  for  the  excellent  quality  of  its  honey. 

Descending  from  the  heights  of  the  Acropolis  we 
entered  the  ruins  of  the  Odeon  of  Herodus  Atticus  which 
lay  at  the  base  of  the  Acropolis.  This  theatre  had  a 
stone  floor,  a  stone  stage,  and  tiers  of  stone  seats  capable 
of  seating  an  audience  of  six  thousand,  and  was  covered 
with  a  cedar  roof.  Now  the  roof  is  completely  gone 
and  the  seats  are  in  partial  ruin.  Beyond  this  smaller 
theatre  are  the  ruins  of  a  larger  one  called  the  Theatre  of 
Bacchus.  Here  the  masterpieces  of  Eschylus,  Soph- 
ocles, Euripides,  and  Aristophanes,  in  the  golden  days 
of  Grecian  glory,  gave  delight  to  great  audiences.  This 
theatre,  accommodating  thirty  thousand  spectators, 
contained  a  semi-circle  of  marble  seats  built  up  against 
the  cliff  of  the  Acropolis,  and  was  open  to  the  sky.  The 
large  stage  was  built  of  marble  and  the  front  of  it  was 
carved  with  grotesque  figures.  The  lower  tiers  of  seats 
nearest  the  stage  were  marble  chairs  reserved  for  priests 
and  other  dignitaries.  The  names  of  the  men  who  oc- 
cupied the  chairs  were  carved  in  the  marble,  and  some 
of  these  names  are  yet  visible.  While  resting  for  a 
short  time  in  these  official  chairs,  we  tried  to  imagine 
that  we  were  viewing  on  the  marble  vStage  the  perfor- 
mance of  an  old  Greek  tragedy  by  actors  in  the  graceful 


ATHENS  AND  THE  ACROPOLIS. 


117 


flowing  robes  of  those  ancient  times.  A  few  minutes 
later  we  were  grouped  at  the  side  of 'the  columns  which 
are  all  that  remain  of  the  glory  of  the  Temple  of  Jupiter. 
The  professor,  responding  to  our  request  for  informa- 
tion, said:  "The  Olympieum  was  the  Temple  erected 
in  honor  of  Zeus,  the  supreme  deity  of  the  Greeks.     As 


WE    DROVE    AROUND    THE    ROYAL    GARDENS. 

the  Roman  name  for  the  supreme  deity  was  Jupiter  or 
Jove,  the  temple  was  called  the  Temple  of  Zeus  by  the 
Greeks,  and  the  Temple  of  Jupiter  by  the  Romans.  The 
Athenians  began  the  construction  of  the  edifice  two 
centuries  before  the  birth  of  Christ,  but  the  work  was 
interrupted  by  wars   and  lack  of  funds   and  remained 


ii8  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

unfinished  for  three  hundred  years.  Then  the  Roman 
Emperor  Hadrian,  having  conquered  Greece,  completed 
the  work  and  claimed  for  himself  all  the  honor  and 
glory  for  the  erection  of  the  temple.  The  Temple  of 
Zeus,  next  to  that  erected  to  Diana  b}^  the  Ephesians, 
was  the  largest  of  the  temples  of  antiquity.  It  was 
built  in  the  Corinthian  style  of  architecture  and  had  a 
triple  row  of  eight  columns  each  at  the  ends,  and  a 
double  row  of  twenty  columns  each  at  the  sides.  Now 
you  see  only  these  fifteen  huge  columns  remaining.  In 
the  interior  of  the  temple  was  a  colossal  statue  of  Jupiter 
overlaid  with  ivory  and  gold.  Beside  the  statue  of  the 
god  stood  a  companion  figure  of  equal  size  representing 
the  Emperor  Hadrian.  The  grounds  around  the  temple 
were  filled  by  Hadrian  with  hundreds  of  statues,  many 
of  which  represented  himself." 

Carriages  which  had  been  ordered  by  the  managers  of 
the  excursion  awaited  here  to  take  us  rapidly  to  other 
points  of  interest.  As  we  crossed  a  bridge  over  a  little 
stream  on  our  way  to  the  Stadium,  the  guide  said:  "This 
river  appears  small,  perhaps,  in  your  eyes,  but  it  is  great 
in  tjie  history  and  legends  of  Greece.  It  is  the  river 
Ilissus." 

"The  Stadium,'*  said  the  professor  as  we  entered  the 
structure,  "is  the  imimense  athletic  field  of  Athens.  It 
was  constructed  about  the  year  350  B.  C.  Five  hundred 
years  later  the  sixty  tiers  of  seats  capable  of  seating 
fifty  thousand  spectators  were  covered  v/ith  white 
marble.  Centuries  afterwards  in  evil  times  athletic 
sports  were  neglected,  the  place  fell  into  disuse,  and  the 
marble  was  converted  into  lime.     In  modern  times  the 


(119) 


I20  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

Stadium  has  been  restored,  perhaps  not  so  large  as  be- 
fore, and  again  the  tiers  of  seats  have  been  covered  with 
white  marble.  In  international  athletic  contests  held 
in  the  restored  Stadium,  Americans  have  comipeted 
successfully  for  the  laurel  crown.  " 

Leaving  the  Stadium,  we  drove  around  the  Royal 
Gardens  through  streets  shaded  by  graceful  pepper  trees, 
caught  glimpses  of  palms,  orange,  and  onamental  trees 
within  the  gardens,  and  stopped  a  few  minutes  in  front 
of  the  extensive  white  marble  palace  of  the  king.  As 
we  passed  through  the  residential  portion  of  the  city  we 
were  impressed  with  the  cleanliness  of  the  well  swept 
streets  and  with  the  purity  of  the  soft  creamy  yellow 
and  pink  colorings  of  the  buildings.  Fortunately  we 
saw  no  great  manufacturing  establishments  belching 
forth  volumes  of  blackening  smoke  to  soil  these  delicate 
shades. 

We  halted  before  the  University,  a  majestic  building 
occupying  a  block  on  a  w4de  boulevard,  and  before  the 
Academy  of  Science,  another  large  white  marble  edifice 
adjoining  the  University,  a  building  much  more  elabo- 
rate than  its  neighbor,  with  Ionic  porticoes,  a  facade 
enlivened  by  bright  coloring  and  gilding,  and  pediments 
adorned  with  statues. 

"What  odd-looking  costumes  those  men  wear.  They 
look  like  ballet  girls  arrayed  for  the  stage,"  said  one  of 
the  ladies  in  our  carriage,  pointing  to  a  group  on  the  side- 
walk. The  men  wore  tights,  low  shoes  with  pompons 
on  the  toes,  black  garters  with  tassels,  blue  jackets 
ornamented  with  many  brass  buttons,  red  skull  caps 
with  large  black  tassels,  and  very  full  skirts.     The  guide 


ATHENS  AND  THE  ACROPOLIS, 


121 


said  that  these  men  were  soldiers  of  the  king's  guard  and 
though  their  uniforms  might  appear  pecuHar  to  our 
eyes  they  did  not  seem  more  strange  than  the  tartans  of 
Scotch  Highlanders  were  to  the  Greeks.  The  king's 
guard,  he  told  us,  is  composed  of  men  from  the  moun- 


GREEK   CHILDREN    WERE   GROUPED    AROUND    A    PUNCH    AND 
JUDY  SHOW. 


tain  regions  of  Greece,  who  dress  in  the  ancient  military 
costume  of  that  section.  The  uniforms  of  the  regular 
Greek  soldiers  are  very  similar  to  those  worn  by  the 
soldiers  of  our  own  country.     The  officers  we  met  were 


122 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


handsome  men  and  especialty  well  uniformed.  The 
well-to-do  and  middle  class  Athenian  people  whom  we 
saw  on  the  streets  were  dressed  in  modern  English  style. 
The  National  Archaeological  Museum  has  a  valuable 
collection  of  antiquities  that  would  require  much  time 
for  examination.  Perhaps  the  most  interesting  to  us 
were  the  old  tombs  from  Mycenae  with  their  resurrected 


\          i 

mmmmasmmmfSS^ 

^.  ^-  w           '^^mmmmammsmm^ 

W^Smi 

^^w^^^^^^H^      'V:  tJ^j^^^l^H^H^^^^^^^^B^^^I 

i^^^F^^K^        XL  ^-           /  .^^^^^^1 

^^k|&...LJ^4-B 

Hpi^^HHBBgg 

^^^^^^^^^^^Hngme^'i 

'^Q^^^^^^^^^^H 

BEFORE    THE    UNIVERSITY^    A    MAJESTIC    BUILDING. 

contents  of  skeletons,  gold  masques,  ornaments,  and 
weapons;  the  reduced  copy  of  the  gold  and  ivory 
statue  of  Athena  Parthenos ;  the  marble  figure  of  a  man 
in  stooping  position  lately  found  in  the  sea ;  the  statue  of 
the  god  Hermes ;  and  the  large  and  beautiful  vases  re- 
covered from  the  excavations.  On  the  vases  scenes  of 
ancient  Greek  life  or  legend  were  represented. 


ATHENS  AND  THE  ACROPOLIS.  123 

"It  was  a  pastoral  scene  of  love-making  carved  on  a 
Grecian  vase  that  inspired  the  poet  Keats  to  write  his 
noted  poem,  'Ode  on  a  Grecian  Urn,'"  said  one  of  our 
friends.  "Let  me  tell  you  my  favorite  stanza,"  and, 
with  an  eloquence  that  brought  out  their  meaning, 
she  repeated  the  beautiful  lines : 

Heard  melodies  are  sweet,  but  those  unheard 

Are  sweeter;  therefore,  ye  soft  pipes,  play  on; 
Not  to  the  sensual  ear,  but,  more  endear'd, 
'  Pipe  to  the  spirit  ditties  of  no  tone : 
Fair  youth,  beneath  the  trees,  thou  canst  not  leave 

Thy  song,  nor  ever  can  those  trees  be  bare; 
Bold  lover,  never,  never  canst  thou  kiss. 

Though  winning  near  the  goal — yet,  do  not  grieve; 
She  cannot  fade,  though  thou  hast  not  thy  bliss. 

Forever  wilt  thou  love,  and  she  be  fair! 

On  both  days  while  in  Athens  we  lunched  at  one  of  the 
hotels  facing  Constitution  Square  and  ate  of  the  delicious 
honey  from  Mt.  Hymettus,  returning  to  the  Moltke  in 
the  harbor  in  time  to  have  a  late  dinner  and  to  spend 
the  night.  In  the  public  park  in  front  of  the  hotel  the 
trees  were  laden  with  oranges.  Beyond  the  park 
through  the  green  foliage  could  be  seen  the  white  palace 
of  the  king. 

While  rambling  through  the  streets  we  saw  a  funeral 
procession.  First  came  many  banners  and  symbols  of 
the  Greek  Church,  carried  by  church  officials ;  then  fol- 
lowed the  casket  borne  by  men,  the  casket  open  and  the 
pale  face  of  the  dead  exposed  to  the  gaze  of  the  on- 
lookers; a  man  came  next  carr34ng  the  lid  of  the  coffin 
filled  with  flowers;  then  priests  in  black  robes,  men  and 


124  ^   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

women  in  black,  and  girls  in  white  holding  wreaths  and 
flowers.  The  people  along  the  way  removed  their  hats 
and  crossed  themselves,  muttering  prayers  as  the  pro- 
cession passed  by. 

The  modern  religion  of  Greece  is  that  of  the  Greek 
church,  a  religion  of  many  ceremonies.  The  priests, 
long-haired,  heavy -bearded  men,  wear  long  flowing 
black  robes  and  black  hats  resembling  our  silk  dress 
hats  turned  upside  down  with  the  brim  at  the  top. 
They,  the  guide  informed  us,  are  men  of  influence;  their 
hands  are  kissed  by  their  people;  their  advice  is  sought, 
and  their  opinions  received  with  deference  by  the  mem- 
bers of  their  church. 

The  stores  for  the  sale  of  candles  to  be  burned  on 
ceremonial  occasions  made  an  interesting  display. 
There  were  candles  of  all  sizes,  ranging  from  six  feet 
in  height,  beautifully  decorated,  which  only  the  wealthy 
could  afford,  down  to  the  small  unadorned  dip  that  the 
smallest  coin  might  purchase. 

"These  candles,"  said  the  guide  while  we  were  pric- 
ing some  of  the  decorated  ones,  "are  used  for  the  rejoic- 
ings at  baptisms,  at  the  festivities  on  wedding  occasions, 
and  for  lightening  the  gloom  around  the  caskets  of  the 
dead.  They  are  given  as  penance  to  the  church,  or  as 
votive  offerings  to  brighten  the  altars  of  the  Virgin  or 
patron  saints. " 

Eikons,  the  sacred  memorials  w^hich  the  Greek  Chris- 
tians hang  in  their  homes,  representing  the  Virgin  Mary 
holding  the  infant  Christ  in  her  arms,  were  also  for  sale 
in  great  numbers.  Some  of  these  were  merely  painted 
boards  or  silvered  or  gilded  metal;  others  were  of  ex- 


ATHENS  AND  THE  ACROPOLIS. 


125 


pensive  material,-  incrusted  with  jewels.  In  all  the 
Eikons,  either  cheap  or  dear,  the  painted  faces  and  heads 
of  the  Virgin  and  child  were  visible  through  openings  in 
the  metal  or  board. 

"At  Easter  time," 
said  one  of  the  dealers 
in  ecclesiastical  wares, 
"  we  sell  thousands  of 
candles  for  the  great 
midnight  celebration 
of  the  lighting  of  the 
candles.  Just  as  the 
Easter  day  is  ushered 
in,  the  Patriarch  from 
his  platform  makes 
the  announcement , 
'Christ  is  risen. '  The 
people  repeat  it  over 
and  over,  the  candles 
are  lighted,  then  raised 
andlowered  three 
times  in  honor  of  the 
Trinity,  and  we  return 
to  our  homes  to  break 
the  three  days'  fast 
bv  a  feast  of  rejoic- 
ing." 

When  returning 
from  the  wharf  to  the  steamer  in  the  evening  some  of 
the  tourists  were  conveyed  in  a  tug  and  others  in  row 
boats.     The  oarsmen  to  save  the  labor  of  rowing  cast 


AND    BLUE    JACKET    ORNAMENTED    WITH 
MANY    BRASS    BUTTONS. 


126 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


their  lines  to  the  tug  and  the  dancing  of  the  little  boats 
on  the  waves  as  they  were  drawn  swiftly  down  the 
bay  in  the  wake  of  the  larger  craft  caused  some  anxiety 
on  the  part  of  the  more  timid  of  the  occupants. 

On  the  evening  of  Tuesday,  the  twenty -fourth  of 
February,  just  as  the  silver-toned  bells  on  the  Russian 
warships  were  telling  the  hour  of  five,  the  anchor  of  the 
Moltke  was  drawn  up  and  the  vessel  almost  impercep- 
tibly moved  around  and  headed  for  the  narrow  outlet 
between  the  breakwaters.     As  we  slowly  steamed  awav 


\.sJm^jLj»Jlki^l 

^^ 

fc^ 

1^^^^ 

i 

^  '■'  -\  &:^^ 

^^H^HHHKIiV 

i 

SOME    IN    A    TUG    AND    OTHERS    IN    ROWBOATS. 

from  the  Russian  vessels,  our  band  played  the  Russian 
national  hymn  and  the  Russian  flag  was  elevated  to  the 
top  of  the  Moltke's  mast  in  a  farewell  salutation.  Im- 
mediately the  crowds  of  Russian  sailors  on  the  warships 
removed  their  hats  and  remained  bareheaded  until  the 
music  ceased.  Then,  in  response,  the  Russian  band 
played  our  national  hymn,  and  as  we  sailed  away,  the 
strains  of  the  music  became  fainter  and  fainter  until  they 
died  awav  in  the  distance. 


ATHENS  AND  THE  ACROPOLIS.  127 

Looking  backward  after  leaving  the  harbor  we  saw 
clearly  defined,  in  the  golden  evening  light,  the  towering 
Acropolis  and  the  Parthenon  crowning  its  summit,  and, 
as  we  sailed  away  from  the  city  which  was  once  the 
centre  of  culture,  refinement,  and  wealth,  we  tried  to  re- 
call the  stories  of  her  glorious  past.  The  figures  of 
legend,  myth,  and  history, — mighty  warriors,  celebrated 
heroes,  eloquent  orators,  illustrious  painters,  renowned 
architects,  great  historians,  immortal  poets,  and  wonder- 
ful deities;  Spartan  mothers,  Thermopylae  defenders, 
and  Persian  invaders;  beautiful  Helen,  muscular  Her- 
cules, crusty  Diogenes,  deformed  ^sop,  silver-tongued 
Demosthenes,  fleet-footed  Mercury,  drunken  Silenus, 
stately  Juno,  and  lovely  Venus, — a  confused  procession 
of  mortals  and  immortals  rushed  across  the  brain. 

"Look,"  said  the  professor  with  note  book  in  hand 
interrupting  our  dreams  of  the  past,  "that  strait  to  the 
left  behind  us  is  the  entrance  to  the  bay  of  Salamis  where 
the  Persian  fleet  of  one  thousand  sail  encountered  the 
smaller  fleet  of  only  three  hundred  Grecian  vessels  in  the 
year  480  B.  C.  The  rocky  brow  of  the  hill  on  the  farther 
side  of  the  strait  is  the  place  where  the  haughty  Xerxes 
sat  in  his  silver-footed  chair  to  gloat  over  the  expected 
annihilation  of  Greek  power.  I  want  to  read  to  you, 
before  we  go  to  our  evening  meal,  the  vivid  description 
of  the  conflict  from  the  tragedy  of  'The  Persians. '  It 
was  written  by  the  poet  Eschylus,  who  himself  was  one 
of  the  heroes  in  the  fight. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
CONSTANTINOPLE  AND  SANTA  SOPHIA. 

ON  Wednesday  morning,  February  twenty -fifth, 
the  ladies  donned  winter  wraps  and  the  gen- 
tlemen heavy  overcoats  for  their  morning  prom- 
enades on  deck.  All  night  the  Moltke  had  steamed 
northward  and  the  region  of  palms  and  orange  trees 
had  been  left  behind.  By  referring  to  the  large 
atlas  of  the  world  in  the  library,  we  found  that  we 
were  in  the  same  latitude  as  that  of  New  York  City. 

As  we  approached  the  entrance  to  the  Strait  of  Darda- 
nelles, the  ancient  Hellespont,  which  connects  the 
^gean  Sea  with  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  the  Turkish 
fortifications  crowning  the  hills  on  both  sides  of  the 
channel  were  plainly  visible.  Under  the  great  guns  of 
the  fortresses  the  Moltke  anchored. 

"Why  do  we  stop  here?"  inquired  one  of  the  tourists 
of  the  surgeon,  who  was  standing  near  watching  the 
shore. 

"This  is  the  quarantine  station,"  replied  the  doctor, 
"and  we  must  wait  here  for  the  official  inspection. 
According  to  Turkish  regulations,  the  passage  of  foreign 
warships  through  the  Dardanelles  is  absolutely  pro- 
hibited at  any  time  and  merchant  vessels  are  not  allowed 
to  enter  during  the  night.  Every  vessel  arriving  here 
must  undergo  inspection  before  receiving  a  permit  to 
proceed.     The  Sultan  guards  this  gateway  to  the  most 

(128) 


(l29) 


I30  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

vulnerable  part  of  his  dominion,  not  only  to  prevent  the 
entrance  of  a  hostile  fleet,  but  to  protect  his  people  from 
the  incursions  of  that  insidious  foe,  the  plague,  which 
sometimes  ravages  the  Eastern  countries.  There  come 
the  oflfiicials  now  in  response  to  our  signals,"  he  added 
as  a  yacht  steamed  out  from  the  shore.  "I  must  go 
with  the  captain  to  welcome  them  at  the  head  of  the 
gangway." 

The  Turkish  quarantine  physician  in  red  fez  and  hand- 
some fur  overcoat,  accompanied  by  his  assistants  and 
the  inspector,  came  on  board.  Madam  Rumor  whispers 
that  a  good  sized  tip  sometimes  obviates  tedious  per- 
sonal examinations  and  insures  prompt  issuance  of  a 
clean  bill  of  health  without  exasperating  delays.  How- 
ever it  was,  the  quarantine  physician,  after  consulting 
with  the  ship  physician,  quickly  found  the  health  con- 
ditions satisfactory,  and  the  inspector  of  cargoes  granted 
his  permit.  The  pilot  who  was  to  guide  the  vessel 
through  the  swiftly  flowing  current  of  the  Hellespont 
joined  us  here,  and  with  him  came  the  dragoman  or 
chief  guide  who  had  been  engaged  by  the  managers  to 
.take  special  charge  of  the  sight-seeing  excursions  of  our 
party  while  in  Constantinople. 

Proceeding  slowly  on  our  way,  we  noticed  half  a  dozen 
Turkish  warships  lying  in  the  stream  near  by.  One  who 
claimed  to  know  said  that  the  Turkish  naval  vessels  had 
been  gathering  barnacles  and  mussels  for  four  years  and 
were  unfit  for  active  service.  But  the  fortresses  guard- 
ing the  strait,  he  said,  were  in  excellent  condition  and 
well  equipped  with  batteries  of  modern  make. 

The  Strait  of  Dardanelles,  for  a  distance  of  forty  miles 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  131 

separating  the  continent  of  Asia  from  that  of  Europe, 
varies  in  width,  narrowing  to  less  than  one  mile  at  some 
places  and  broadening  out  to  four  miles  at  others.  By 
referring  to  the  steamer's  atlas,  consulting  guide  books, 
exchanging  historical  knowledge,  and  questioning  good- 
natured  officials,  the  tourists  obtained  information  about 
the  various  points  of  interest  that  they  were  passing. 
Beyond  the  entrance,  at  the  narrowest  point  of  the 
strait,  the  place  was  pointed  out  where  the  Persian  king 
Xerxes  with  his  vast  army  crossed  the  channel  on  a 
bridge  of  boats  for  the  invasion  of  Europe  in  the  year 
480  B.  C. 

"Little  then,  "  remarked  a  tourist,  "did  that  imperious 
invader  dream  that  within  a  year,  in  humiliation  and 
defeat,  and  with  only  a  poor  remnant  of  that  great 
army,  he  would  recross  that  strait  to  Asia  again.  " 

At  the  same  place  in  the  channel,  we  were  informed, 
Alexander  the  Great  with  his  Greek  legions  crossed 
from  Europe  in  the  year  334  B.  C.  and  continued  his 
victorious  march  until  all  the  then  known  portion  of 
Asia  was  subdued  to  his  rule. 

"Then,"  said  another  tourist,  "when  flushed  with 
victory,  he  wept  for  other  worlds  to  conquer.  To  me 
the  saddest  part  of  Alexander's  history  is  that  he  was 
himself  conquered  by  his  own  appetite  and  never 
returned  to  his  native  shore.  " 

Another  tragic  tale  connected  with  that  place  is  the 
story  of  Hero  and  Leander.  Across  that  mile  of  swiftly 
flowing  current,  the  story  says,  Leander  nightly  swam 
from  Abydos  to  the  tower  on  the  opposite  shore  to  visit 
his  beloved  Hero,  the  priestess  of  Venus.     In  one  of  his 


132  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

nightly  excursions  the  swimmer  was  drowned  in  a  storm, 
and  Hero,  after  hearing  of  Leander's  death,  despairingly 
threw  herself  into  the  sea  to  share  his  sad  fate. 

"There  is  the  height  from  which  Hero  cast  herself," 
said  an  official,  "and  this  is  the  place  where  Lord  Byron, 
in  emulation  of  Leander,  performed  the  same  difficult 
feat  of  swimming  the  channel." 

To  the  right,  on  the  Asian  shore  not  far  away,  was  the 
plain  of  Troy  where  Dr.  Schlieman  won  fame  by  making 
the  excavations  and  discoveries  which  led  to  the  location 
of  the  lost  city  of  Troy.  In  this  ancient  city  of  Troy, 
according  to  Homer,  the  beautiful  Grecian  princess 
Helen,  abducted  by  Paris,  the  son  of  the  King  of  Troy, 
was  detained  for  ten  years.  The  enraged  Greeks  under 
Ulysses  and  Ajax,  seeking  to  rescue  the  princess,  be- 
sieged the  city  and  finally  succeeded  in  entering  its 
gates  and  accomplishing  their  purpose  by  means  of  the 
stratagem  of  a  huge  wooden  horse. 

After  sailing  through  the  length  of  the  Sea  of  Marmora, 
about  one  hundred  and  ten  miles,  we  arrived  at  five 
o'clock  in  the  evening  within  sight  of  the  domes  and 
minarets  that  crown  the  promontory  at  the  entrance 
to  the  Strait  of  Bosporus.  From  the  time  we  caught 
our  first  glimpse  of  a  distant  minaret,  until  the  anchor 
of  our  steamer  was  dropped  in  the  channel,  every 
tourist  was  intent  on  the  picturesque  views  which 
presented  themselves.  While  the  Moltke  was  steadily 
moving  onward  and  our  point  of  view  continually 
changing,  the  dragoman  at  intervals  pointed  out  the 
various  places  of  interest,  now  on  one  side,  now  on  the 
other. 


(^33) 


134  ^   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"The  Strait  of  Bosporus,  which  we  are  now  approach- 
ing, is  here  a  Httle  over  a  mile  in  width,  "  said  he.  "The 
part  of  the  city  you  see  on  the  headland  on  the  north 
shore  of  the  Strait  is  the  oldest  part  of  Constantinople, 
and  is  called  Stamboul.  It  is  occupied  principally  by 
Turks,  Greeks,  Armenians,  and  Jews.  The  most  cele- 
brated mosques,  and  also  the  great  bazaars  in  which 
tourists  delight  to  wander,  are  in  Stamboul. " 

"That  dome  with  six  minarets  surrounding  it,  par- 
tially hidden  by  the  intervening  trees  and  buildings,  is 
the  Mosque  of  Ahmed,  one  of  the  most  interesting  in 
the  city.  Beyond  it  you  can  see  the  dome  and  four  min- 
arets of  the  more  famous  St.  Sophia.  The  name  of  this 
is  probably  familiar  to  you,  for  almost  every  visitor 
whom  I  have  escorted  has  told  me  that  he  had  heard 
of  the  Mosque  of  St.  Sophia." 

"And  that  is  Scutari"  he  continued,  calling  our  atten- 
tion to  the  city  on  the  Asiatic  shore  of  the  strait.  The 
great  square  yellow  building  so  prominent  on  that  side 
is  the  military  barracks.  The  large  structure  nearer 
us  is  the  military  hospital  where  the  English  lady  nursed 
the  soldiers  during  the  war  with  Russia  fifty  years  ago.' 
Perhaps  you  have  heard  of  the  lady  ? " 

We  informed  the  dragoman  that  the  noble  work  of 
Florence  Nightingale  during  the  Crimean  war  was  well 
known  to  the  American  people,  and  her  name  held  in 
high  honor  by  them. 

"The  point  beyond  us  on  the  left,"  said  the  guide  a 
few  minutes  later,  "is  called  Seraglio  Point.  The 
portion  of  the  city  on  the  promontory,  extending  along 
the  Bosporus,  is  about  one  mile  in  length  and  half  a  mile 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  135 

in  width  and  is  called  the  Seraglio.  In  these  extensive 
grounds  are  the  well  guarded  Treasury  buildings  con- 
taining the  accumulated  treasures  of  centuries,  the  Im- 
perial Museum  of  Antiquities,  and  many  other  public 
edifices.  There  also  are  the  palaces,  kiosks,  and  gardens, 
which  were  occupied  by  the  Sultans  and  their  families 
until  the  present  Sultan  changed  his  residence  to  another 
part  of  the  city. 

"The  stream  of  water  to  our  left,"  he  added  as  our 
steamer  rounded  Seraglio  Point,  "is  called  the  Golden 
Horn,  so  named  on  account  of  its  curved  shape.  This 
inlet  of  the  Bosporus,  not  over  one-third  of  a  mile  in 
width,  separates  the  older  Stamboul  from  old  Galata 
and  newer  Pera.  Over  the  two  bridges  across  this 
inlet  streams  of  people  pass  constantly.  Galata  is  the 
business  section  of  the  city  which  includes  the  wharves, 
steamship  offices,  and  wholesale  establishments.  Pera, 
situated  on  the  heights  above  Galata,  contains  the 
residences  of  the  wealthier  class,  as  well  as  hotels, modern 
stores,  and  the  residences  of  the  ambassadors  and  con- 
suls." 

After  passing  the  mouth  of  the  Golden  Horn,  the 
Moltke  slackened  speed  and  anchored  in  the  Bosporus 
apposite  Galata,  a  little  way  from  the  shore.  Promi- 
nent on  the  shore  at  the  water's  edge,  not  far  from  our 
anchorage,  stood  a  small  but  beautiful  white  mosque 
with  delicate  minarets,  and  just  beyond  it  a  snow  white 
palace  of  magnificent  size. 

"The  white  marble  building  that  you  see  extending 
for  some  distance  along  the  Bosporus,"  said  the  guide, 
"is  the  Dolmah  Bagcheh  Palace  of  the  Sultan,  one  of  the 


136 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT, 


magnificent  palaces  which  he  does  not  occupy.  Once 
or  twice  a  year  he  holds  a  reception  there.  In  the  dis- 
tance along  the  water  is  the  Cheraghan  Palace  where  the 
imprisoned  ex-Sultan  Murad,  the  elder  brother  of  the 
present  Sultan,  for  many  years  had  every  luxury  but 
liberty.  And  on  the  heights  just  beyond  those  grounds 
is  Yildiz  Kiosk,  the  palace  where  now  lives  the  present 


THE    BREAD    DEALERS    CONSENTED    TO    BE    KODAKED. 


ruler  of  Turkey,  his  Imperial  Majesty,  Sultan  Abdul 
Hamid.  Strangers  are  not  permitted  to  enter  its 
gates,  but  we  have  obtained  his  Imperial  Majesty's 
permission  to  take  your  party  through  the  Dolmah 
Bagcheh  Palace. " 

Our    steamer    had    barely    anchored    when    a    steam 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  137 

yacht  flying  the  emblem  of  Turkey,  a  red  flag  with  a 
white  crescent  and  star,  appeared  alongside.  Several 
red-fezzed  Turkish  officials,  on  whose  green  frock  coats 
dangled  medals  and  badges,  mounted  the  stairway  to 
receive  the  report  of  the  vessel  and  examine  and  vis6  the 
passports  of  the  passengers.  The  stewards  collected  the 
passports  and  handed  them  to  the  Sultan's  officers, 
who  afterwards  returned  them  stamped  in  queer-look- 
ing characters  with  the  official  seal  of  the  Turkish  govern- 
ment. 

"Captain,  can  you  not  send  us  ashore?"  requested 
some  of  the  tourists  after  the  evening  dinner  was  over. 

"I  would  gladly  send  you  ashore  if  I  considered  it  safe 
for  you  to  go,"  replied  the  Captain,  "but  I  advise  you 
to  remain  on  board.  There  is  little  to  be  seen  after 
sunset  in  this  unlighted  city.  Although  the  principal 
streets  are  lighted  with  gas,  many  of  the  streets  depend 
upon  the  moon  and  stars  and  so  on  cloudy  nights  are 
left  in  utter  darkness.  Strangers  may  with  safety 
wander  around  the  city  during  the  day,  but  it  is  dan- 
gerous for  them  to  do  so  at  night.  The  lower  part  of  the 
city  along  the  wharves  is  infested  with  thieves  who  have 
little  regard  for  the  life  of  an  infidel,  and  who  under  cover 
of  darkness  would  cut  one's  throat  and  cast  the  body  into 
the  stream  in  order  to  secure  a  few  valuables. " 

The  Captain's  advice  was  taken  and  the  evening  was 
delightfully  spent  on  the  vessel.  The  American  Consul 
and  his  wife  came  on  board  to  meet  some  friends  and 
to  welcome  all  the  Americans.  Then,  according  to  a 
plan  which  had  been  made  by  the  managers  of  the  tour, 
a  resident  of  the  citv  delivered  an  instructive  address  on 


138  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

the  history  of  Constantinople.  The  lecturer  told  of 
Constantine  the  Great,  first  Christian  emperor  and 
founder  of  the  city;  of  Justinian,  the  imperial  legislator 
and  builder,  and  his  empress  Theodora,  the  beautiful 
comedian  who  became  a  queen;  of  the  heroic  warrior 
Belisarius  and  his  emperor's  ingratitude;  of  the  Greek 
girl  Irene  who  rose  to  supreme  power;  of  the  bloody 
religious  riots  and  theological  disputes;  of  the  Nicene 
Council  and  adoption  of  the  Nicene  creed;  and  of  the 
pillage  of  Constantinople  by  the  ruthless  Crusaders. 
He  told  also  of  the  marriage  ceremonies,  of  the  art  and 
commerce,  and  of  the  places  of  interest  about  the  city. 
His  remarks  about  the  former  trade  and  literature  of  the 
city  were  most  interesting. 

"During  the  earlier  centuries  of  the  Eastern  Roman 
Empire, "  said  the  lecturer,  "Constantinople,  the  capital, 
was  a  great  centre  of  trade,  an  exchange  market  for  the 
products  of  the  world.  Caravans  brought  the  treasures 
of  the  East  to  the  storehouses  here  to  be  bartered  for  the 
cargoes  of  produce  which  came  in  ships  from  the  West. 
This  exchange  brought  wealth  and  prosperity  to  the 
city.  In  later  centuries  the  Venetians  and  Genoese 
succeeded  in  transferring  much  of  this  business  to 
Venice  and  Genoa  and  the  trade  of  Constantinople 
declined.  In  modern  days  steamships  and  the  Suez 
canal  have  completely  "changed  the  route  of  commerce. 

"Constantinople,  not  only  was  a  centre  of  trade,  but 
in  the  Twelfth  and  Thirteenth  centuries  it  was  the 
centre  of  literature.  During  the  dark  ages,  when  the 
study  of  literature  was  generally  neglected  in  other 
places,  the  lamp  of  learning  burned  brightly  in  this  city. 


(i39) 


I40  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

Libraries  were  established  and  manuscripts  accumulated ; 
but  at  the  time  of  the  Turkish  invasion  a  multitude  of 
the  most  valuable  documents  were  destroyed.  When 
the  Renaissance  brought  new  life  to  the  western  shores, 
the  centre  of  literature  moved  to  Italy,  and  printed 
books  took  the  place  of  manuscripts.  " 

When  we  thought  of  the  present  standing  of  Turkey 
among  the  nations  of  the  world,  it  was  difficult  to  realize 
that  for  centuries  Constantinople  was  the  commercial 
centre  and  the  brilliant  capital  of  the  world.  It  was 
even  more  difficult  to  realize  that  the  country  which 
now  prohibits  the  importation  of  foreign  books  and 
papers  was  at  one  time  the  patron  of  art,  literature,  and 
learning,  the  collector  of  great  libraries  of  illuminated 
manuscripts,  theological  discourses,  and  legal  docu- 
ments.    But  that  was  centuries  ago. 

Thursday  morning  ushered  in  a  bright,  clear,  cool  day. 
We  were  up  early,  eager  for  sight-seeing,  and  little  boats 
soon  carried  us  to  the  custom  house  pier  on  the  Galata 
side.  Open  carriages  drawn  by  wiry  Turkish  horses 
and  driven  by  Turkish  drivers  were  there  in  readiness 
to  carry  us  across  the  Golden  Horn  to  explore  the  sights 
of  Stamboul.  As  our  carriages  rattled  over  the  plank 
pontoon  bridge  with  its  drawbridge  in  the  center,  we 
parsed  through  a  crowd  of  people  moi'e  varied  as  to 
nationality  and  costume  than  can  be  seen  at  almost  any 
other  place  on  the  globe.  The  Turks,  of  course,  pre- 
dominated, their  nationality  being  indicated  by  the 
national  head-gear, — ^the  red  fez.  The  wealthier  Turks 
wore  the  English  style  of  clothing  and  the  red  fez.  The 
costumes  of  the  other  classes  varied  according  to  their 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


141 


occupation.  On  the  bridge  as  our  driver  guided  his 
team  through  the  throng,  we  saw  Turkish  soldiers  in 
blue  uniforms  and  red  fez;  Moslems  wearing  a  green 
sash  around  the  fez  to  indicate  that  they  had  performed 
a  pilgrimage  to  Mecca;    stately-looking  bearded  Greek 


A    STRUCTURE   DIFFERING    IN    DESIGN    FROM    ANY   OTHER 
CHRISTIAN    TEMPLE. 

priests  in  black  robes  and  peculiar  hats;  Nubians  with 
black  glistening  skins  and  tattooed  faces;  Moslem 
priests  with  pure  white  turbans,  and  Moslem  priests 
with  high  green  turbans ;  Russian  or  Hungarian  peasants 
with  coats  of  sheep  skin,  the  fleecy  sides  of  which  were 


142  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

turned  inward;  Dervishes  in  brown  mantles,  and  high- 
coned  brown  hats  without  brims;  Hebrews  in  long 
yellow  coats  and  little  curls  at  the  sides  of  their  heads ; 
Turks  in  gold  embroidered  trousers  and  jackets  and  long 
flowing  blue  sleeves;  Turkish  women  with  faces  closely 
veiled,  and  negro  women  who  concealed  their  features 
behind  white  veils  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Turkish 
women. 

"Those  cakes  looked  so  good,  I  was  almost  tempted 
to  take  one  off  the  tray, "  said  one  of  the  occupants  of  our 
carriage,  as  a  peddler  carrying  on  his  head  a  table  filled 
with  cakes  and  pastry  passed  so  closely  that  his  wares 
were  within  reach. 

"Oh,  how  could  you  think  of  doing  such  a  thing," 
hastily  exclaimed  her  companion,  horrified  at  the 
thought,  "we  should  all  be  placed  in  a  dungeon  and  our 
pleasure  ended. " 

Peddlers  of  dates,  bearing  their  stock  of  fruit  in  huge 
baskets  on  their  backs  and  carrying  scales  in  one  hand, 
held  up  a  sample  of  dates  towards  us  with  the  other 
hand;  dealers  in  nuts  in  the  same  manner  carried  and 
offered  their  wares  to  the  passers-by ;  peddlers  of  ' '  Tur- 
kish delight"  and  other  sweetmeats  arranged  the 
candies  on  their  trays  in  an  attractive  manner ;  and  the 
sherbet  sellers  called  attention  to  the  pink  liquid  in 
large  glass  bottles  suspended  on  their  backs.  At  each 
end  of  the  bridge  were  half  a  dozen  toll  collectors  in  long 
white  overshirts  who  stood  in  line  across  the  way  col- 
lecting the  toll  of  ten  paras,  or  one  cent,  from  each  person 
that  crossed. 

"How  clearly  that  dome  and  the  two  minarets  stand 


(143) 


144  ^  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

out  against  the  sky,"  exclaimed  one  of  the  party,  point- 
ing to  a  great  dome  and  two  dehcate  minarets  with  taper- 
ing peaks  which  rose  above  the  buildings  directly  in 
front  of  us  on  the  other  side  of  the  bridge. 

"That  is  the  Mosque  where  the  Sultans  and  their 
families  went  to  prayer  when  they  resided  in  the  Seraglio 
near  by.  We  will  not  stop  at  this  Mosque  but  will  go 
directly  to  the  Mosque  of  St.  Sophia.  " 

"  Professor, "  said  the  lady  who  in  Athens  had  con- 
fessed her  ignorance  of  history , ' '  please  give  us  some  infor- 
mation about  the  church  of  St.  Sophia  while  we  are 
grouped  here  together  in  front  of  the  building." 

The  professor  expressed  his  willingness  to  do  so,  pro- 
vided we  were  willing  to  take  the  time  to  listen. 

"In  the  year  532  A.  D.,"  said  he,  "Justinian,  the 
Emperor  of  the  Eastern  Roman  Empire,  decided  to  erect 
in  Constantinople  a  church  that  should  be  a  glory  to  the 
city  and  an  honor  to  his  name.  His  desire  was  to  build 
one  'such  as  since  Adam  has  never  been  seen,'  a  structure 
differing  in  design  from  any  Christian  temple  previously 
constructed  and  surpassing  in  magnificence  any  temple 
that  afterwards  might  be  built.  The  empire  was  then 
at  the  height  of  its  power  and  glory,  and  Justinian,  in 
emulation  of  Solomon,  made  demands  on  all  the  coun- 
tries under  his  dominion  for  contributions  of  ivory,  cedar, 
gold,  silver,  precious  stones,  and  the  rarest  marbles. 

"In  order  to  attajin  his  ambitious  design,  the  monarch 
robbed  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Baalbek  of  columns  of 
porphyry,  despoiled  the  Temple  of  Diana  of  Ephesus  of 
its  finest  pillars,  took  columns  of  pure  white  marble  from 
the   Temple   of   Minerva   at   Athens,    and   divested  the 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  145 

shrines  of  Isis  and  Osiris  in  Egypt  of  their  choicest 
granite  columns.  He  called  upon  the  quarries  of  Italy, 
Greece,  and  the  ^gean  Isles  for  marbles  of  every  hue 
produced  by  them,  so  that,  when  completed,  the  temple 
should  contain  the  most  beautiful  marbles  the  world 
could  yield,  and  these  he  ordered  to  be  highly  polished 
and  artistically  arranged.  To  hasten  the  construction, 
ten  thousand  workmen  under  the  direction  of  one  hun- 
dred architects  were  employed,  and  in  less  than  six  years 
the  immense  structure,  'the  great  Church  of  Santa 
Sophia,  or  Heavenly  Wisdom,'  one  of  the  most  famous 
churches  of  the  world,  was  ready  for  dedication. 

"The  great  altar  was  built  of  silver  and  gold,  the  seven 
chairs  of  the  bishops  were  plated  with  silver,  the  crosses 
and  crucifixes  were  composed  of  pure  gold,  and  the  altar 
cloth  and  vestments  were  encrusted  with  precious  stones. 
Jeweled  images  of  saints,  sacred  paintings  of  fabulous 
value,  and  holy  relics  to  be  adored  by  kneeling  worship- 
ers, were  arranged  around  the  walls  of  the  building. 
The  huge  doors  of  the  temple  were  made  of  cedar, 
ivory,  amber,  and  silver;  the  ceiling  glistened  with 
golden  mosaics ;  the  walls  shone  with  polished  marbles : 
and  the  capitals  of  the  columns  were  laced  with  deli- 
cate carvings  inset  with  mother-of-pearl,  silver,  and 
precious  stones. 

"  On  the  day  of  the  dedication  of  the  temple  a  jubilant 
procession  of  patriarchs,  bishops,  priests,  and  people,  in 
admiring  wonder,  entered  the  completed  building  with 
songs  and  rejoicings.  The  Emperor,  at  the  head  of  the 
procession,  overcome  with  pride  and  joy  in  the  glorious 
consummation  of  his  purpose,  threw  himself   upon   the 


146  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

floor  and  exultingly  exclaimed:  'Glory  to  God  who  has 
deemed  me  worthy  to  accomplish  so  great  a  work.  O 
Solomon,  I  have  surpassed  thee!' 

"In  this  sanctuary  for  over  nine  centuries  the  people 
worshiped  God  according  to  the  Christian  faith  in 
great  pomp  and  with  much  ceremony.  The  bishops 
officiated  at  the  golden  altar  reading  from  golden  lettered 
manuscripts,  and  were  assisted  in  the  service  b}^  scores 
of  richly  robed  priests  and  hundreds  of  selected  musi- 
cians, while  the  air  was  filled  with  the  fragrance  of  rising 
incense.  But  during  the  latter  part  of  the  Middle  Ages 
while  the  power  and  glory  of  the  Roman  Empire  was 
gradually  declining,  the  rival  Mohammedan  Turkish 
Empire  in  Asia  was  rapidly  ascending  to  a  dominant 
position.  Finally,  in  the  year  1453  A.  D.,  the  Sultan  of 
Asiatic  Turkey,  Muhammed  II,  determined  to  obtain 
possession  of  Constantinople  and  make  the  city  the 
capital  of  his  empire.  His  army  besieged  the  decadent 
city  and  captured  it  after  a  struggle  of  fifty -three  days. 
When  the  Turkish  troops  entered  in  triumph  they  tore 
the  emblems  of  Christianity  from  their  places  and,  instead 
of  the  cross  of  the  Christian,  they  raised  the  crescent  of 
the  Moslem. 

"In  the  church  of  St.  Sophia  the  conquerors  tore 
down  the  golden  altar,  melted  the  silver  plates,  removed 
the  images  of  saints,  painted  over  the  sacred  pictures, 
and  took  away  the  jewels  and  precious  stones,  changing 
the  interior  to  suit  the  simpler  worship  of  the  followers 
of  Mahomet.  The  name  of  the  building  was  changed 
and  it  was  thereafter  known  as  the  Mosque  of  Saint 
Sophia.     For  four  hundred  and  fifty  years  the  Mosque 


UNIVERSITY 

Of 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


147 


has  been  in  possession  of  the  Turks.  Its  doors  are  open 
at  all  times  for  Moslems  to  enter  freely ;  but  the  entrance 
is  carefully  guarded  to  keep  Christian  or  foreign  visitors 
from   intruding.     The   latter,    however,    may   gain   ad- 


THREE    MEN     RAISED    THE    BURDEX    TO    HIS    SHOULUEKS. 

mission  by  paying  an  entrance  fee  of  forty  cents,  and 
removing  their  shoes  at  the  door  or  lacing  over  their 
shoes  the  loose  slippers  that  are  provided  for  this  pur- 
pose. " 


148  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

On  the  porch  of  the  Mosque  we  put  our  feet  into  the 
loose  shppers,  a  Moslem  attendant  tied  them  on  as  care- 
fully as  the  clumsy  things  could  be  tied,  and  then,  ac- 
companied by  him,  we  entered  the  building.  The  im- 
mense floor,  an  acre  in  size,  was  covered  with  handsome 
heavy  rugs.  As  we  slid,  rather  than  walked,  over  the 
soft  Turkish  carpets,  our  turbaned  guide,  with  sharp, 
piercing,  black  eyes,  watched  carefully  to  see  that  our 
slippers  did  not  become  unfastened  and  drop  off,  and  our 
infidel  shoes  profane  the  holy  enclosure.  And  when  one 
of  the  visitors  laughed  within  the  sacred  edifice,  the 
attendant's  black  eyes  flashed  with  anger. 

It  w^as  not  the  regular  hour  for  prayer  in  the  mosque, 
but  a  number  of"  worshipers  were  devoutly  kneeling 
at  different  places  in  the  interior,  with  faces  turned 
toward  a  black  stone  in  the  south  wall,  which  indi- 
cated the  direction  of  the  holy  city  of  Mecca.  Others, 
squatting  on  their  bare  heels,  were  reading  or  reciting 
in  monotonous  tones  parts  of  the  Koran.  There  are 
no  benches  or  chairs  in  the  building ;  Moslem  worshipers 
do  not  require  seats  while  at  their  devotions.  The 
great  dome,  over  one  hundred  feet  in  width,  rises  in 
grandeur  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  overhead,  sup- 
ported by  four  huge  columns  each  seventy  feet  in  circum- 
ference. A  circle  of  windows,  forty -four  in  number, 
around  the  dome  illumines  the  golden  mosaics  which 
cover  the  ceiling.  A  mosaic  picture  in  the  dome 
representing  the  Almighty,  has  been  obliterated  by  the 
Turks  and  covered  with  green  linen  cloth.  A  verse 
from  the  Koran,  in  gilt  Arabic  characters  almost  thirty 
feet  long,  is  painted  on  this    cloth.     The  sentence,  as 


THROUGH    THE    NARROW    STREETS    OF    THE    CITY. 
(149) 


I50  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

translated,  begins:  "God  is  the  light  of  heaven  and 
earth,"  and  ends,  "God  alone  sheddeth  His  light  on 
whomsoever  He  pleaseth." 

"If  the  Moslems  believe  in  the  Bible  and  in  God  as  a 
supreme  being,  why  did  the}^  destroy  the  mosaic  repre- 
sentation of  God  on  the  ceiling?"  inquired  one  of  the 
visitors. 

"The  Moslems  do  believe  in  the  Bible  and  in  one 
Supreme  God,"  was  the  reply,  "and  it  was  this  very 
belief  that  led  them  to  paint  out  the  picture  of  God 
and  to  destroy  all  the  images  and  paintings  of  saints ; 
for  God's  command  is :  'Thou  shalt  not  make  unto  thee 
any  graven  image,  or  any  likeness  of  anything  that  is  in 
the  heaven  above,  or  that  is  in  the  earth  beneath, 
or  that  is  in  the  water  under  the  earth.  Thou  shalt  not 
bow  down  thyself  to  them.'  " 

"The  Moslems,"  continued  the  guide,  "regard 
Mahomet  as  the  Prophet  of  God,  and  the  Koran  as 
written  by  him  under  the  inspiration  of  God;  but  they 
do  not  worship  Mahomet  or  any  image  or  picture  of 
him." 

We  paused  to  admire  the  four  green  marble  columns 
taken  from  the  Temple  of  Diana,  and  the  polished  shafts 
brought  from  the  Temple  of  the  Sun,  relics  of  those  two 
magnificent  cities,  Ephesus  and  Baalbek,  of  whose 
grandeur  nothing  now  remains  but  broken  stones.  We 
gazed  upward  at  the  eight  immense  green  shields 
covered  with  Arabic  characters,  high  above  our  heads 
on  the  walls.  But  we  doubted  the  miraculous  healing 
power  of  a  small  hole  that  is  always  damp  in  a  bronze- 
covered  pillar,  and  hesitated  also  to  accept  the  tradition 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  151 

that  the  apparent  imprint  of  a  bloody  hand  in  the  marble 
wall  was  made  by  the  Sultan  Muhammed  II  when  he 
rode  into  St.  Sophia  after  the  capture  of  the  city. 

"On  Fridays,"  said  the  guide,  as  we  stood  at  the  foot 
of  the  marble  steps  that  led  to  the  elevated  pulpit,  "the 
priest,  clad  in  a  long  red  robe,  reads  a  prayer  for  the 
Sultan,  and,  while  doing  so,  holds  in  one  hand  the  Koran 
and  in  the  other  a  drawn  sword  to  indicate  that  this 
temple  was  captured  from  the  Christians  by  force.  " 

"That  prayer  rug,"  he  continued  pointing  to  a 
beautiful  carpet  hanging  on  the  wall  near  by,  "was  the 
personal  prayer  rug  of  the  great  conqueror  Muhammed 
II.  There  is  so  much  more  to  be  seen,"  he  added, 
"that  we  could  spend  the  whole  day  here,  but  the 
dragoman  is  beckoning  and  we  must  go  on. " 

We  shook  the  slippers  from  our  feet  in  the  porch  and 
were  driven  through  narrow  streets  to  the  Grand  Bazaar. 

"The  Grand  Bazaar,"  said  the  guide,  "covers  several 
acres.  It  has  one  hundred  entrances.  There  are 
twelve  hundred  narrow  streets  or  passages  under  roof 
within  the  bazaar  and  on  these  streets  are  four  thousand 
little  shops." 

The  Grand  Bazaar,  we  decided,  was  the  enormous 
department  store  of  Stamboul ;  but  we  noticed  that 
each  little  shop  had  its  own  proprietor.  To  man}^  of  the 
visitors,  this  Bazaar  was  the  most  interesting  place  in 
Constantinople ;  for  here  were  found  the  most  tempting 
bargains  in  Oriental  wares,  in  its  narrow  passages  were 
seen  the  native  people  in  their  most  picturesque  costumes, 
and  in  its  maze  of  dimly  lighted  corridors  some  tourists 
were  lost  for  awhile  and  met  with  novel  adventures, 


152  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

The  store  of  Far-Away-Moses  was  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  popular  of  the  shops  in  the  Bazaar  and  that 
genial  trader  did  a  thriving  business.  There  seemed 
to  be  a  magnetic  power  that  drew  the  guides  in  the 
direction  of  certain  shops,  an  unseen  influence  that 
urged  them  to  recommend  certain  places,  and  one  of 
these  jjlaces  was  Moses'  emporium.  Some  of  the  ladies 
found  that  when  they  slipped  away  and  entered  a  shop 
without  a  guide  a  better  bargain  could  be  secured. 

The  price  named  for  articles  in  the  bazaar  shops  by 
the  fezzed  or  turbaned  dealers  was  generally  three  times 
the  price  that  they  would  accept  before  losing  a  sale; 
but  much  tact  was  required  on  the  part  of  the  purchaser, 
and  much  valuable  time  was  occupied  in  the  diplomatic 
struggles  between  the  acute  Yankees  and  clever  Mos- 
lems. When,  however,  the  battle  was  won  and  the 
desired  article  secured  at  one-half  or  one-third  the  price 
at  first  demanded,  the  joy  of  the  purchaser  was  doubled. 
The  person,  who,  after  an  hour's  dickering,  bought  a 
bronze  ornament  for  twenty  piasters,  or  one  dollar  of 
American  money,  was  just  as  happy  over  the  bargain 
as  the  one  who  succeeded  in  purchasing  a  magnificent 
silk  rug  for  twenty  thousand  piasters.  The  money 
drawers  of  the  Moslem  traders  were  swollen  with  their 
contents  but  their  shelves  were  less  crowded  when  the 
Americans  left  the  bazaar. 

When  we  returned  to  the  vessel  we  found  that  during 
our  absence  the  decks  had  been  converted  into  a  rival 
bazaar.  The  tourists  who  had  failed  to  obtain  souvenirs 
had  another  opportunity  to  buy  them;  for  here  were 
displayed  silk  rugs  ranging  in  price  from  three  thousand 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  153 

piasters  downward,  exquisite  embroideries,  rare  silks, 
delicate  fans,  gold-laced  shawls,  fragrant  attar  of  roses, 
and  a  multitude  of  articles  in  bronze,  silver,  and  gold. 

"How  restful  it  is  to  recline  lazily  in  our  comfortable 
steamer  chairs  rolled  up  in  a  rug,  dreaming  or  talking 
over  the  events  of  the  day,  without  any  cares  or  worries 
to  disturb  our  thoughts,"  remarked  one  of  our  friends 
as  we  sat  upon  the  deck  in  the  later  evening  hours 
watching  the  glimmering  lights  on  the  shore. 

"Yes,"  said  another,  "there  seems  to  be  nothing  to 
disturb  the  serenity  of  the  night;  even  the  distant 
barking  of  the  dogs  appears  to  be  in  harmony  with  the 
soft  lapping  of  the  waves  against  the  vessel.  I  feel  that 
I  shall  rest  to-night  in  my  berth,  as  Shakespeare  says, 
in  a  'sleep  that  knits  the  ravel'd  sleeve  of  care, '  after  the 
exertion  of  a  full  day  of  sight -seeing. " 


CHAPTER  IX. 
THE  SELAMLIK  AND  THE  TREASURY. 

ONE  dark  night  in  the  faraway  past,  so  the  story- 
runs,  the  barking  of  dogs  in  the  outskirts  of  Con- 
stantinople wakened  the  sleeping  garrison  in  the 
city,  warning  them  of  the  approach  of  a  crafty  foe  who 
sought  to  surprise  and  capture  the  place.  At  the  same 
time,  the  young  moon,  coming  out  from  under  a  cloud, 
revealed  the  position  of  the  enemy.  The  barking  of  the 
dogs  and  the  light  of  the  crescent  moon  enabled  the  gar- 
rison to  frustrate  the  designs  of  their  foes  and  save  the 
capital  from  capture.  Since  then  the  nightly  bowlings 
of  the  dogs  have  been  tolerated  by  the  Turkish  people 
and  the  crescent  has  had  a  place  of  honor  on  the  Tur- 
kish banner.  To  kill  a  dog  is  an  unpardonable  offense. 
The  dogs,  however,  are  not  well  fed,  well  groomed  pets, 
fondled,  kissed,  collared,  and  blanketed,  as  in  some 
other  countries;  but  are  ownerless,  homeless  creatures 
roaming  at  night  in  great  numbers  through  the  streets 
and  sleeping  by  day  on  the  thoroughfares  and  sidewalks 
regardless  of  passers-by.  The  people  step  over  or  go 
around  the  sleeping  animals  and  do  not  disturb  them. 
The  dogs  seem  to  know  their  privileges,  for  they  will  not 
move  out  of  the  way. 

The  city  is  noted  for  its  dogs,  not  on  account  of  their 
beauty  or  breed,  for  they  are  a  disreputable  lot  of  mon- 
grel curs  and  bear  the  marks  of  many  nightly  brawls, 

(iS4) 


(155) 


156  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

but  on  account  of  the  legions  of  them  and  their  usefulness 
as  scavengers.  At  nightfall  the  residents  of  Stamboul 
empty  their  garbage  cans  in  the  streets  and  the  dogs, 
howling  and  fighting,  dispose  of  every  scrap  before  day- 
light. When  a  Turk  desires  to  express  the  utmost 
contempt  for  a  person  he  calls  him  a  dog. 

"If  you  wish  to  avoid  trouble  while  in  this  city," 
cautioned  the  dragoman,  "neither  disturb  a  sleeping  dog 
in  the  highways, — for  the  dog  will  resent  the  inter- 
ference with  his  slumbers, — ^nor  call  a  Turk  a  dog,  for  the 
anger  of  a  Turk  thus  reviled  is  uncontrollable  until  the 
offender  who  called  him  by  that  vilest  of  epithets  is 
severely  punished." 

A  drive  of  one  and  a  half  miles  along  the  Grand  Rue 
de  Galata,  one  of  the  wider  thoroughfares  in  Galata 
parallel  to  the  Bosporus,  carried  the  tourists  from  the 
custom  house  pier  to  the  gates  of  the  Dolmah  Bagcheh 
Palace.  The  entrance  to  the  grounds  of  the  palace 
is  through  a  gateway  of  marble,  beautiful  in  design  and 
richly  ornamented  with  elaborate  Corinthian  columns 
and  delicate  carvings  of  garlands,  wreaths,  and  urns. 

While  we  gazed  at  the  carvings,  the  officer  in  charge 
of  the  guard  carefully  examined  our  permit.  Then  the 
massive  gates  were  swung  open  for  our  entrance.  With- 
in the  palace  we  ascended  a  magnificent  wide  marble 
staircase,  the  balusters  of  which  were  made  of  clear 
glass.  We  admired  the  intricately  carved  alabaster 
bath-rooms  and  wondered  if  their  neatness  had  ever 
been  disturbed.  We  passed  through  a  multitude  of 
richty  decorated  chambers  and  salons  where  every 
article  was  arranged  in  perfect  order,    and  walked  on 


THE  SELAMLIK  AND  TREASURY.        157 

carpet  strips  laid  for  visitors'  feet  around  the  beautiful 
ball-room,  not  daring  to  tread  on  the  highly  polished 
hard-wood  floor.  Every  apartment  of  the  palace  was 
immaculate,  and  resplendent  in  marble,  porcelain,  inlaid 
woods,  and  golden  mosaics.  The  largest  mirror  in  the 
world  reflected  the  "passers-by  and  costly  paintings 
attracted  the  eyes  of  the  visitors.  The  dark  green  mal- 
achite and  the  rich  blue  lapis  lazuli  harmonized  pleas- 
ingly with  yellow  gold  and  white  marble.  And  yet  this 
grand  show  palace  is  unoccupied  except  by  the  hundreds 
of  care-takers  required  to  keep  it  in  order.  Its  quiet 
is  disturbed  only  by  sight-seers  who  pay  for  the  privilege 
of  inspecting  the  stately  apartments,  and,  on  rare 
occasions,  by  imperial  receptions  which  are  held  in  the 
throne  room.  This  immense  apartment  surpasses  all 
the  others  in  the  elegance  of  its  adornment.  The  dome 
overhead  and  the  walls  and  the  Corinthian  columns 
which  surround  the  room  are  richly  decorated  with 
oriental  designs  in  white  and  gold.  From  the  centre 
of  the  dome  hangs  a  crystal  chandelier  noted  for  its  size 
and  beauty. 

"In  this  throne  room,  "  said  the  guide,  "five  thousand 
persons  can  stand.  On  the  day  after  the  close  of  the 
Fast  of  Ramazan,  which  is  the  first  day  of  the  Feast 
of  Bairam,  the  Sultan  drives  here  from  Yildiz  Palace, 
along  a  road  lined  with  soldiers,  and  holds  a  State 
reception.  Several  thousand  of  the  nobility  assemble 
in  this  room  and  the  Sultan,  seated  on  that  crimson 
and  gold  sofa,  receives  the  homage  of  his  officials.  The 
generals  of  the  army  in  gorgeous  uniforms,  the  heads 
of  the  religious   orders,   holy   men,   and  state   ofiicials 


158 


.4   TRTP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


approach  according  to  their  rank  and  make  their  obei- 
sance to  his  Imperial  Majesty.  They  reverently  kiss 
the  hem  of  his  Majesty's  garment,  press  the  hem  to  their 
foreheads  as  a  seal  of  their  declaration  of  loyalty  to  his 
person,  and  then  retire  backward  from  his  presence. 
During   the   reception    every    face   in   the    assemblv   is 


A    TEAM    OF    GREAT    HORNED    OXEN. 

turned  toward  the  Sultan.  To  turn  one's  back  to  his 
Majesty,  even  for  a  moment,  is  unpardonable.  That 
day  after  Ramazan  is  a  great  day  in  the  city ;  cannons 
thunder,  the  bands  play,  the  mosques  are  illuminated 
at  night,  and  the  people  feast  and  rejoice.  " 


THE  SELAMLIK  AND  TREASURY.        159 

"What  is  the  Fast  of  Ramazan  and  when  does  it 
occur  ? " 

"The  Fast  of  Ramazan,"  repHed  the  guide,  "is  kept 
through  the  whole  month  of  Ramazan,  which  corre- 
sponds to  your  month  of  September.  For  thirty  days 
the  Moslems  do  not  eat  bread  nor  drink  water  during 
the  hours  between  sunrise  and  sunset.  After  sunset 
they  may  refresh  themselves.  The  Prophet  commanded 
that  one  specially  named  day  in  the  month  of  Ramazan 
should  be  kept  as  a  fast  day ;  but  the  date  of  that  partic- 
ular day  was  somehow  lost,  and  now,  in  order  to  make 
sure  of  keeping  the  fast  on  the  day  appointed,  the  Mos- 
lems keep  every  day  in  that  month  as  a  fast  day.  The 
Feast  of  Bairam  immediately  follows  the  end  of  the 
fasting.  This  festival  consists  of  three  days  of  feasting 
and  festivities. " 

Friday  is  the  Mohammedan  Sabbath,  but  we  could 
not  see  that  it  made  much  difference  in  the  trafhc  of  the 
city.  We  asked  the  guide  if  the  Turkish  bazaars  would 
be  closed. 

"No,"  he  replied,  but  more  of  the  faithful  attend 
mosque  on  Friday  than  on  other  days,  and  on  Friday 
each  week  the  Sultan  goes  to  his  special  mosque  with 
great  ceremony." 

The  Sultan's  weekly  visit  to  prayer  is  called  the  Selam- 
lik  or  Sultan's  Procession  to  Mosque.  Our  guide  ob- 
tained a  good  position  for  our  carriage  in  an  open  square 
near  the  mosque  from  which  to  see  the  procession.  The 
parade  was  not  to  occur  until  one  o'clock,  but  in  order 
to  secure  the  place  we  were  there  at  eleven.  The  time 
of  waiting  was  not  tiresome  as  there  was  much  of  interest 


i6o  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

going  on  around  us  all  the  time.  Carriages  of  other 
visitors  assembled  in  the  open  square;  cabs  containing 
invited  dignitaries  rolled  up  to  the  ruler's  palace,  which 
was  within  sight  about  one  block  away;  guards  drove 
the  crowds  from  the  streets;  regiments  of  red-fezzed 
infantry  tramped  b}^  and  formed  in  lines  along  the  street 
between  the  palace  and  the  mosque;  mounted  lancers 
with  flying  pennons  trotted  to  their  positions;  and  the 
bands  took  their  place  near  the  palace.  Uniformed 
policemen  and  spies  in  plain  clothes  circulated  among 
the  carriages  and  sight-seers,  watching  closely  for  sus- 
picious characters,  and  listening  to  remarks  made  by 
visitors.  We  were  advised  by  our  dragoman  not  to 
mention  the  name  of  the  Sultan. 

"How  the  Turks  do  enjoy  their  coffee,"  said  an  oc- 
cupant of  our  carriage,  calling  attention  to  a  group 
squatting  on  the  ground  with  cups  in  hand. 

Near  our  carriage  a  Turk  was  making  coffee  on  a 
portable  stove  and  selling  the  beverage  to  thirsty 
customers ;  an  itinerant  barber  placed  his  portable  stool 
beside  our  carriage  wheel,  opened  his  kit  of  tools  and  was 
soon  busy  lathering  and  shaving  dusky  faces;  a  water 
peddler  with  his  jar  on  his  back  played  a  tune  on  tum- 
blers by  rubbing  them  with  his  fingers ;  a  cake  peddler's 
table  was  upset  by  passing  dragoons  and  he  mournfully 
picked  up  the  fragments.  The  trays  of  the  Turkish 
peddlers  of  candies  and  cakes  were  clean  and  the  ar- 
ticles offered  appeared  fresh  and  appetizing.  We 
yielded  to  temptation  and  bought  some  "Turkish  de- 
light" and  some  hght  flaky  biscuit,  and,  after  eating 
the  dainties,  wished  for  more. 


(i6i) 


i62  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

•*It  is  nearly  one  o'clock,"  said  the  guide  looking  at 
his  watch. 

The  street  cleaners  were  hastily  giving  a  final  polish 
to  the  roadway  over  which  the  Sultan  would  drive  be- 
tween the  lines  of  soldiers.  A  dozen  carts  filled  with 
clean  sand  that  had  been  standing  near  us  were  hurried 
up  the  hill  and  the  white  sand  was  spread  over  the 
Sultan's  path.  The  bands  ceased  playing;  the  soldiers 
stood  at  attention;  the  Muezzin  called  to  prayer;  a 
trumpet  sounded  from  the  gates;  and  from  the  palace 
on  the  hill  carriages  emerged  containing  the  veiled  wives 
of  the  ruler  attended  by  black  eunuchs  on  horseback. 
A  long  line  of  military  officers  in  handsome  uniforms 
followed  on  foot ;  then  a  shout  arose  from  the  assembled 
troops,  and  a  carriage  appeared  drawn  by  a  very  hand- 
some pair  of  horses  in  gold-mounted  harness.  In  the 
carriage  the  Sultan  sat  alone.  The  huzzas  of  the  troops 
continued  until  his  Majesty  entered  the  mosque.  Then 
all  was  silent,  for  the  Sultan  was  at  his  prayers  alone. 
His  wives  and  his  officials  had  been  left  at  the  entrance. 
No  person  was  permitted  to  enter.  The  Iman,  or  priest 
in  charge,  and  the  Sultan  were  the  onty  occupants  of  the 
mosque. 

Without  waiting  for  the  ruler's  return  the  visitors 
hastened  away,  the  carriages  raising  such  a  cloud  of  dust 
that  it  was  difficult  to  see  across  the  road.  A  hasty 
luncheon  in  a  Pera  restaurant  followed,  and  then  we 
turned  toward  Stamboul.  As  we  drove  again  across 
the  Galata  bridge  through  the  ever  interesting  throng 
of  humanity  that  crowds  over  it,  our  attention  was  called 
to  the  manner  in  which  merchandise  is  conveyed  through 


THE  SELAMLIK  AND  TREASURY.        163 


the  narrow  streets  of  the  city.  Wagons  are  rarely  used, 
but  men  carry  the  merchandise  on  their  backs  and 
shoulders.  These  men  passed  us  laden  with  immense 
bales  of  hides,  huge  bundles  of  carpets  and  rugs,  large 
boxes  of  dry -goods,  great  crates  of  fruits  or  vegetables, 
piles  of  trunks, bar- 
rels and  sacks  of 
groceries,  and  cans 
of  oil.  The  pon- 
derous burdens 
were  heaped  upon 
wooden  frames  fit- 
ted to  the  backs 
and  strapped  to 
the  shoulders  of 
the  carriers.  When 
the  load  was  too 
heavy  for  one  man 
to  carry,  it  was 
suspended  on  poles 
and  carried  by  two 
or  more  of  the 
bearers. 

A  high  wall  sur- 
rounds  the  old 
Seraglio  grounds. 
Before  visitors  may  enter  a  permit  must  be  obtained. 
A  permit  including  the  necessary  fees  to  the  keepers 
costs  small  parties  of  visitors  about  five  dollars  each ;  the 
permit  and  fees  for  the  Molkte  party,  so  it  was  rumored, 
cost  the  managers  two  hundred  dollars.     The  captain 


WHAT   A    CONTRAST,      SHE    SAID. 


1 64  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

of  the  guard  at  the  gate  scrutinized  our  permit  and  kept 
us  waiting  until  an  official  was  summoned  to  act  as  our 
conductor.  When  we  arrived  at  the  Treasury  building 
the  huge  door  was  opened  with  impressive  ceremony  and 
the  uniformed  officials  kept  the  tourists  under  close 
surveillance  while  they  were  within. 

Among  the  many  curiosities  that  attracted  attention 
in  the  first  room  of  the  Treasury  was  a  throne  captured 
from  one  of  the  Shahs  of  Persia  four  hundred  years  ago. 
This  Persian  throne  is  made  of  beaten  gold  inlaid  with 
rubies  and  emeralds,  and  is  said  to  be  of  fabulous  value. 
Arranged  in  glass  cases  in  another  room  a  row  of  figures 
represents  the  Sultans  of  past  ages  clothed  in  the  royal 
attire  worn  by  them.  The  white  turbans  of  these 
effigies  are  ablaze  with  jewels.  The  mantles  which 
cover  them  are  of  Oriental  brocade  wrought  in  gold  and 
silver  patterns,  and  the  belts,  swords,  and  daggers  are 
adorned  with  sparkling  gems.  A  suit  of  chain  armor 
worn  by  one  of  the  Sultans  of  olden  times  is  ornamented 
with  gold  and  diamonds.  On  the  second  floor  of  the 
Treasury,  to  which  we  ascended  by  a  narrow  stairway, 
the  most  carefully  guarded  treasure  is  a  throne  used 
by  a  former  Turkish  ruler.  This  Turkish  throne  is 
made  of  precious  wood  inlaid  with  tortoise  shell,  mother 
of  pearl,  and  gold  and  silver  traceries,  and  is  set  with, 
turquoises.  A  canopy  overspreads  the  throne,  and 
beneath  the  canopy,  suspended  by  a  golden  cord,  hangs 
an  enormous  pear-shaped  emerald.  In  cases  around  the 
various  rooms,  crowns,  sceptres,  simitars,  swords,  dag- 
gers, and  talismans,  scintillate  with  rubies,  emeralds, 
and  diamonds. 


THE  SELAMLIK  AND  TREASURY,        165 

"Many  of  the  highly  valued  treasures  stored  in  these 
rooms,"  said  our  friend,  the  professor,  "are  trophies  of 
the  times  when  Crusader  knight,  Persian  prince,  and 
Saracen  warrior  went  forth  to  battle  arrayed  in  costly 
apparel,  and  encamped  under  silken  canopies  or  in 
tents  of  cloth  of  gold.  Then  jeweled  balls  suspended 
from  golden  cords  adorned  the  tent  poles  of  the  warriors, 
and  luxury  and  opulence  abounded  underneath  the  can- 
opies. The  royalty  of  kings  and  princes  moved  with 
them  to  the  field  of  war.  Under  pavilions  of  Oriental 
weave,  silken  carpets  were  spread  over  the  turf  for  royal 
feet  to  tread,  and  thrones  erected  from  which  the  sover- 
eigns issued  their  commands.  Retinues  of  retainers 
rendered  obeisance  and  executed  the  mandates  of  their 
lords.  Caravans  of  camels  laden  with  robes  of  royalty 
and  chests  of  treasure  moved  from  camp  to  camp. 

"Knights  and  warriors  vied  with  each  other  in  the 
splendor  of  their  equipage.  The  trappings  of  their  war 
steeds  were  embroidered  in  silk  and  gold ;  the  breast- 
plates and  helmets  which  protected  their  bodies  were 
embossed  with  silver  or  traced  with  gold ;  the  scabbards 
and  hilts  of  their  weapons  were  encrusted  with  precious 
stones;  and  their  mantles  were  clasped  with  fastenings 
and  buckles  adorned  with  jewels.  In  battle  the  body 
of  a  dead  knight  gave  much  booty  to  the  slayer;  the 
capture  of  a  canopy  enriched  the  captors ;  and  the  defeat 
of  an  army  and  seizure  of  its  camp  gave  to  the  victors 
a  train  of  spoils. 

"For  several  centuries,  the  Turkish  empire  was 
dominant  in  the  East  and  its  armies  victorious  in  the 
field.     It  was  during  these  centuries  of  power  that  the 


1 66  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

Moslem  rulers  gathered  the  great  accumulation  of 
trophies  and  spoils  of  war,  valued  at  untold  milHons, 
which  we  find  stored  in  the  rooms  of  this  marble  edifice.  " 

After  leaving  the  Treasury  we  were  led  by  the  official 
conductor  past  the  building  in  which  the  mantle,  sword, 
and  green  banner  of  the  great  founder  of  Mohammedan- 
ism are  treasured.  These  personal  relics  of  the  Prophet 
are  considered  by  the  Moslems  too  sacred  to  be  gazed 
upon  by  infidel  eyes. 

We  tarried  awhile  in  the  Bagdad  Kiosk,  a  white 
marble  palace  noted  for  its  interior  wall  decoration  of 
blue  tiling,  beautiful  doors  inlaid  with  mother  of  pearl, 
and  handsome  furniture  inlaid  with  inscriptions  of  silver, 
and  thence  proceeded  to  a  marble  pavihon  in  which,  as 
guests  of  the  absent  Sultan,  we  partook  of  refreshments. 
These  refreshments,  consisting  of  Turkish  coffee  in  tiny 
cups  and  Turkish  preserves  on  small  plates,  were 
brought  to  us  by  the  servants  of  the  Sultan.  We  stood 
awhile  on  the  portico  in  the  rear  of  the  pavihon  and 
admired  the  magnificent  view  of  the  harbor  with  its 
shipping,  and  the  surrounding  shores  covered  with 
buildings. 

Leaving  the  portico  and  its  panoramic  view  with  re- 
gret, we  turned  to  the  Museum  of  Antiquities,  intending 
to  inspect  hastily  the  rehcs  of  ancient  times  which  it 
contains.  The  collection,  however,  proved  to  be  much 
more  interesting  than  we  had  expected,  so,  instead  of 
hurriedly  passing  through  the  building,  we  lingered 
around  the  sarcophagi  and  studied  the  hunting  and 
battle  scenes  which  were  exquisitely  carved  on  the 
pohshed  marble  of  the  exteriors  of  the  old  stone  coffins. 


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(167) 


1 68  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

The  most  beautiful  of  these  sarcophagi,  twenty -one  in 
number,  have  been  discovered  within  the  past  thirty 
or  forty  years  at  Sidon  in  Syria.  The  tireless  archae- 
ologists, eager  in  pursuit  of  knowledge  of  the  past, 
found  and  opened  the  graves  in  which  the  dead  kings 
of  Sidon  had  quietly  rested  for  thousands  of  years ;  then 
disinterring  the  heav\^  stone  caskets  they  brought  them 
to  Constantinople  to  be  placed  on  exhibition. 

These  sarcophagi  are  stone  caskets  of  great  size  and 
weight  composed  of  tw^o  pieces,  the  chest  and  lid.  The 
chest  is  hewn  out  of  one  solid  block  of  marble  and  the 
lid  of  another.  The  sarcophagi  range  from  ten  to  twelve 
feet  in  length,  from  five  to  six  feet  in  width,  and  from 
six  to  eight  feet  in  height.  One  of  the  stone  coffins,  made 
of  black  Egyptian  marble  and  named  the  Tabnith,  con- 
tained, when  found,  the  dried  up  mummy  of  an  ancient 
king,  Tabnith,  who  lived  four  centuries  before  the  time 
of  Christ.  An  inscription  on  this  in  Egyptian  hieroglyph- 
ics pronounced  a  curse  upon  the  man  who  should  de- 
spoil the  tomb,  but  the  dreadful  warning  was  not  de- 
ciphered until  the  casket  reached  the  Museum.  Another 
sarcophagus,  called  the  Satrap's,  cut  out  of  Parian 
marble,  somewhat  resembles  a  Grecian  temple  in  form. 
On  the  sides  are  depicted,  in  marble  carvings,  a  funeral 
banquet,  a  governor  on  his  throne,  a  hunting  scene  with 
a  lion  at  bay,  a  frightened  horse  dragging  its  dismounted 
rider,  and  many  other  similar  scenes. 

**  But  this,  in  my  opinion,  is  the  most  attractive 
casket  in  the  collection,"  said  the  professor  as  we  came 
to  one  named  the  Weepers,  on  the  marble  sides  of  which 
a  master  sculptor  of  ancient  times  had  carved  eighteen 


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(169) 


lyo  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

female  forms,  "Notice  how  each  figure  is  portrayed  in 
a  dififerent  graceful  attitude  of  mourning  and  how  each 
is  a  picture  of  sorrow.  And  notice,  too,  the  exquisite 
workmanship  of  the  frieze  with  its  ornamentation  of  a 
hundred  small  figures  in  hunting  scenes." 

Near  to  the  Weepers  is  the  sarcophagus  known  as  the 
Alexander,  the  most  famous  in  the  collection,  by  many 
considered  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world,  and  in  the 
opinion  expressed  by  the  American  Consul  in  Constanti- 
nople, "worth  crossing  the  ocean  to  see."  The  sculp- 
tures on  this  represent  a  battle  between  Greeks  and 
Persians  with  many  figures  and  incidents  of  battle,  and 
elaborate  hunting  scenes  with  many  details  delicately 
worked  out.  These  four  sarcophagi,  and  the  one  named 
the  Lycian  on  which  Amazons  in  four  horse  chariots 
hunting  lions  are  delineated,  attracted  the  most  atten- 
tion from  the  tourists,  but  there  were  scores  of  other 
sarcophagi  in  the  collection  almost  as  interesting. 

In  another  part  of  the  Museum,  called  the  China 
Pavilion,  the  noted  stone  tablet  from  the  Temple  of 
Jerusalem  was  on  exhibition.  This  tablet,  discovered 
at  Jerusalem  in  the  year  187 1,  originally  stood  in  the 
Temple  enclosure  to  mark  the  limit  which  Gentiles  were 
not  allowed  to  pass.  The  Greek  inscription  on  the 
tablet  is  translated  as  follows : 

"No  Gentile  may  pass  beyond  the  railing  into  the 
court  round  the  Temple;  he  who  is  caught  trespassing 
will  bring  death  upon  himself." 

Statues,  pottery,  porcelain,  jewels,  and  antiquities  of 
various  kinds  were  hurriedly  passed  by  until  an  ex- 
clamation of  one  of  the  ladies  caused  us  to  pause. 


THE  SELAMLIK  AND  TREASURY.        171 

"Look  at  his  eyes,"  she  said,  pointing  to  a  bronze 
statue  of  Jupiter.  "Did  you  ever  see  any  eyes  Hke  that 
in  a  statue  ? " 

The  eyes  of  the  god  were  represented  by  two  bright 
rubies  which  gave  them  a  very  pecuUar  expression. 
This  room  contained  many  exquisite  pieces  of  bronze 
work;  one  representing  Hercules  was  particularly  fine 
in  execution. 

"We  will  stop  now  to  view  the  Hippodrome,"  said 
the  guide,  after  driving  a  short  distance  from  the  Museum. 

"But  where  is  the  Hippodrome?"  inquired  a  tourist 
as  we  descended  from  the  carriages  in  a  long  open  square. 

"Alas!  the  building  is  no  more,"  sadly  replied  the 
guide.  "This  square  is  a  part  of  the  ground  on  which  it 
stood.  The  space  was  originally  very  long  and  wide, 
but  that  great  Mosque  of  Ahmed  and  other  buildings 
now  occupy  a  large  portion  of  the  old  circus  grounds. 

"The  ancient  Hippodrome  was  an  oblong  enclosure 
fourteen  hundred  feet  long  and  four  hundred  feet  wide, 
surrounded  by  magnificent  porticos  adorned  with  statues 
of  marble  and  bronze,  and  had  a  seating  capacity  of 
eighty  thousand.  It  was  used  for  chariot  races,  athletic 
sports,  and  bloody  gladiatorial  combats.  Sometimes  the 
seats  were  crowded  with  people,  now  assembled  to  glory 
in  the  triumphal  procession  of  a  returning  conqueror, 
now  to  gloat  over  the  burning  of  heretics  and  criminals 
who  had  been  condemned  to  death  by  the  flames. 

"That  high  red  granite  obelisk  covered  with  hiero- 
glyphics at  the  end  of  the  square  is  called  the  Obelisk 
of  Theodosius  the  Great.  It  was  originally  erected  in 
the  Temple  of  the  Sun  in  Egypt  in  1600  B.  C.  by  a 


172  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

haughty  king  who  inscribed  on  the  stone  a  statement 
that  he  had  'conquered  the  whole  world,'  and  that  his 
'royalty  was  as  firm  as  that  of  the  gods  in  the  sky. '  For 
two  thousand  years  the  obelisk  remained  in  Heliopolis 
as  a  memorial  of  its  builder,  Thotmes  III,  but  for  the 
past  fifteen  hundred  years  it  has  stood  here  as  a  monu- 
ment to  the  Emperor  Theodosius,  who  brought  it  from 
Egypt  as  a  trophy.  In  order  that  he  might  not  be  for- 
gotten, the  Emperor  caused  a  representation  of  himself 
surrounded  by  courtiers,  guards,  and  dancing  girls  to 
be  carved  on  the  base  of  the  obelisk.  These  sculptures, 
as  you  see,  are  in  good  condition.  The  bronze  'Serpent 
Column'  in  the  centre  of  the  square,  representing  three 
serpents  coiled  around  each  other,  once  supported  the 
tripod  used  in  the  ceremonial  services  of  the  Pythian 
oracle  at  Delphi. " 

When  the  guide  had  finished  his  remarks,  our  friend, 
the  professor,  stepped  forward  and  said:  "Some  of  the 
tourists  may  not  be  familiar  with  the  story  of  the  horses 
that  lived  as  long  and  traveled  as  far  as  did  the  'Wander- 
ing Jew'  in  Eugene  Sue's  well  known  romance.  The 
conductor  has  requested  me  to  relate  the  story. " 

"In  some  ancient  time  before  the  Christian  era,  a 
Roman  conqueror  found  in  an  Oriental  city  four  mag- 
nificent horses  that  pleased  him.  He  took  them  to 
Rome  to  grace  his  triumph.  Centuries  later  the 
covetous  Emperor  Constantine  brought  these  same 
horses  from  Rome  to  Constantinople  and  stood  them 
here  to  add  glory  to  the  splendor  of  his  Hippodrome. 
For  nine  hundred  years  the  horses  remained  undisturb- 
ed; then   ruthless    Christian    Crusaders     carried   them 


THE  SELAMLIK  AND  TREASURY.        173 


with  other  spoils  to  Venice.  A  long  rest  at  Venice 
succeeded  until  the  ambitious  Bonaparte  drew  them 
away  to  beautify  his  famous  Capital.  After  the  down- 
fall of  Napoleon  the  prayers  of  the  Venetians  were 
effectual  in  bringing  the  horses  away  from  Paris,  and  now 
these  gilded 
bronze  trav- 
elers, that 
were  coveted 
and  prized  by 
great  rulers  of 
the  world, 
stand  in  front 
of  the  Church 
of  San  Marco 
in  the  city  of 
Venice. " 

As  the  pro- 
fessor ceased 
speaking,  a 
clear  pene- 
trating voice 
was  heard 
from  over- 
head crying: 

"Al-la-hu, 

Ak-bar!   Al-la-hu,  Ak-bar!"  uttering  each  syllable  dis- 
tinctly. 

It  was  the  Muezzin  calling  the  people  to  pra^^er. 
Looking  up  we  saw  him  on  a  little  balcony  near  the 
summit  of  a  minaret  which  stood  within  the  enclosure 


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174  ^   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

of  the  adjoining  Mosque  of  Ahmed.  Then  he  disap- 
peared and  we  heard  more  faintly  his  call  from  the 
farther  side  of  the  balcony.  It  is  the  Muezzin's  duty  to 
repeat  his  calls  from  the  four  sides  of  the  minaret,  to 
north,  east,  south,  and  west.  His  words  were  inter- 
preted for  us:  "God  is  great,"  repeated  four  times  on 
each  side  of  the  minaret. 

Faithful  Moslems  on  hearing  the  call  repeated  his 
words. 

"There  is  no  God  but  God,"  he  called  again,  reciting 
it  twice. 

His  hearers  repeated  this  declaration. 

"Mohammed  is  the  prophet  of  God.  " 

The  people  responded  in  the  same  words. 

"Come  to  prayer." 

"I  have  no  power  or  strength  but  from  God  most 
high  and  great,"  all  true  believers  replied. 

"Come  to  do  good,"  again  the  Muezzin  called. 

"What  God  wills  will  be;  what  he  wills  not  will  not 
be,"  answered  the  people,  all  responses  being  muttered 
in  low  tones. 

"The  ringing  of  bells  to  call  the  people  to  service  is 
forbidden,"  said  the  guide.  "It  is  written  that  when 
the  Mohammedan  meetings  were  first  held  in  Arabia, 
there  was  difficulty  in  gathering  the  people  together  and 
propositions  were  made  to  'Ring  a  bell  as  the  Christians 
do,'  and  to  'Blow  the  trumpets  as  do  the  Jews;'  but 
Omar  cried,  'What!  is  there  not  a  man  among  you  who 
can  call  to  prayer?'  The  prophet  then  said,  'O  Billal! 
stand  and  make  the  call  to  prayer. '  Since  then  the 
melodious  voices  of  the  trained  Muezzins  five  times  each 


THE  SELAMLIK  AND  TREASURY,        175 

day  summon  the  Moslems  to  prayer,  and  the  tall  graceful 
minarets  which  rise  above  the  surrounding  buildings 
were  erected  so  that  the  voices  could  ring  out  over  the 
city." 

We  followed  the  faithful  into  the  mosque,  after  paying 
our  fees  and  donning  the  slippers,  and  stood  quietly 
in  the  rear  of  the  great  auditorium.  The  interior  was 
brightened  by  beautiful  blue  and  white  tiling  which 
lined  the  arches  overhead  and  covered  the  immense 
piers  that  supported  the  roof.  Inside  the  mosque, 
near  the  entrance,  water  was  running  from  spigots  into 
stone  basins.  The  Moslems  stopped  at  the  basins  and 
washed  their  hands  and  feet.  Some  of  the  better  dressed 
worshipers  appeared  to  have  slippers  inside  their  shoes 
and  went  through  the  motion  of  washing  the  feet, 
but  the  poorer  classes  used  the  water  to  cleanse  their 
feet,  and  then  walked  forward  barefooted  on  the  rugs. 
Each  man, — for  there  were  no  women  at  the  service, — 
carried  his  shoes  with  him  and  placed  them  upon  a 
board  on  the  floor  provided  for  that  purpose. 

The  Koran,  the  sacred  book,  which,  as  the  Moslems 
claim,  was  revealed  to  Mahomet  by  the  angel  Gabriel 
and  was  written  by  Mahomet  under  inspiration,  com- 
mands : 

"The  clothes  and  person  of  the  worshiper  must  be 
clean,  the  place  free  from  all  impurity,  and  the  face  turned 
toward  Mecca."     And  also: 

"O  believers!  when  ye  address  yourselves  to  prayer 
wash  your  hands  up  to  the  elbows,  and  wipe  your  heads, 
and  your  feet  to  the  ankles.  " 

The  worshipers,  scattered  around  the  vast  interior, 


176  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

all  facing  the  black  stone  in  the  wall  which  indicates  the 
direction  of  Mecca,  repeated  their  prayers  in  low  tones. 
At  first  they  stood  with  hands  close  at  their  sides,  then 
as  they  muttered  the  prescribed  formulas  the  hands  were 
raised  to  the  sides  of  the  heads,  then  with  hands  clasped 
in  front  the  worshipers  remained  for  a  short  time  in 
devout  attention.  After  bowing  several  times  the 
Moslems  knelt  on  the  Oriental  rugs  continuing  the 
muttered  supplications  and  concluded  their  personal 
devotions  by  bowing  forward  on  their  feet.  The  Iman, 
or  priest,  then  ascended  the  pulpit,  the  worshipers 
formed  in  lines,  and  as  the  priests  read  the  prayers, 
they  went  through  the  same  movements  that  they  had 
previously  made  while  at  their  personal  devotions. 

"Women  do  not  take  any  part  in  the  public  worship 
on  the  floor  of  the  mosque,"  said  the  guide.  "The  lat- 
ticed galleries  are  provided  for  them.  There  they  may 
sit  in  privacy  during  the  service.  The  galleries,  how- 
ever, are  rarely  occupied. " 

The  Mosque  of  Ahmed  has  six  minarets;  St.  Sophia, 
onlv  four.  The  minarets,  slender,  round  towers,  are 
not  attached  to  the  main  edifices,  but  stand  separate 
and  distinct  in  the  courts  surrounding  the  mosques,  with 
some  space  intervening  between  mosque  and  minaret. 

Resuming  our  drive  through  the  very  narrow  streets 
of  Stamboul,  which  are  paved  with  large  rough  cobble 
stones  once  laid  in  place  but  now  very  much  out  of  place, 
we  passed  many  old  unpainted  frame  buildings  with 
stove  pipes  projecting  from  the  windows  of  the  second 
and  third  floors. 

"I  do  not  wish  any  one  ill,"  said  a  tourist  who  at 


(i77) 


1 78  .4   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

home  was  chief  of  a  city  Fire  Department,  "but  I  would 
give  a  ten  dollar  gold  piece  if  I  could  see  how  the  fire 
department  of  this  old  city  manages  to  control  or  ex- 
tinguish a  conflagration  after  it  has  gained  headway 
among  these  tinder  boxes.  The  watchmen  on  the  watch 
towers  surely  cannot  locate  a  fire  and  give  the  alarm 
until  they  see  a  smoke  or  flame  arising.  " 

The  fountains  of  the  city  were  one  of  the  peculiar 
Turkish  institutions  that  attracted  the  tourists'  attention. 
The  Koran  enjoins  all  true  believers  to  abstain  from 
intoxicants,  and  to  perform  regular  ablutions  before 
prayers ;  so  there  are  drinking  foun  tains  at  corners 
where  the  thirsty  assemble  to  drink  from  brass  cups,  and 
washing  fountains  or  basins  outside  and  adjoining  the 
mosques,  as  well  as  inside  these  buildings,  where  Mos- 
lems were  seen  washing  hands  or  feet  regardless  of  our 
curious  eyes.  Some  of  the  drinking  fountains  are  ver}' 
large  and  beautiful.  The  fountain  erected  by  Sultan 
Ahmed  surpasses  all  others  in  grace  of  proportion  and 
beauty  of  design.  This  magnificent  structure  is  orna- 
mented with  carved  arabesques,  inscriptions  in  gilt,  and 
delicately  colored  green  tile.  Above  the  water  tap  may 
be  seen  in  Turkish  characters  the  builder's  mandate: 

"Wayfarer,  admire  this  beautiful  work;  turn  the  tap 
in  the  name  of  Allah ;  drink  thy  fill  and  bless  the 
founder,  Ahmed  Khan." 


CHAPTER  X. 
FROM  THE  BOSPORUS  TO  PALESTINE. 

THE  program  posted  for  Saturday,  February  twenty- 
eighth,  announced  that  the  Moltke  would  leave 
Constantinople  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning  for 
a  trip  to  the  Black  Sea,  a  distance  of  thirty-five  miles. 
As  we  sailed  up  the  Bosporus,  which  narrows  and  widens, 
twists  and  turns,  a  succession  of  picturesque  scenes 
opened  up  before  us.  Scattered  along  the  shores,  which 
for  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  beyond  Constantinople  may 
be  considered  suburbs  of  that  city,  white  marble  palaces 
of  the  rulers,  siimmer  residences  of  the  foreign  ambas- 
sadors, and  villas  of  the  wealthy  Turks  were  seen  inter- 
spersed with  modern  villages  and  ruined  walls  and  cas- 
tles of  past  ages.  Pretty  frame  summer  houses,  groves 
of  dark  green  cypress,  gardens,  boat-houses,  and 
mosques  added  interest  to  the  views. 

"The  sail  up  the  Bosporus  reminds  me  of  one  taken 
on  the  Hudson  River,  but  the  scenery  on  the  banks  is 
Oriental  instead  of  modern,"  remarked  one  of  the 
tourists. 

"The  old  castles  and  ruined  walls,  and  the  legends  con- 
nected with  them,  suggest  the  Rhine,"  commented 
another. 

At  the  water's  edge  on  the  iVsiatic  side,  a  few  miles 
from  the  city,  we  saw  the  beautiful  white  marble  Bey- 
lerbey   Palace,  built  in   the  year    1866  by  Abdul-Aziz, 

(179) 


i8o 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


the  predecessor  of  the  present  Sultan,  as  a  residence  for 
his  harem.  For  their  pleasure  he  surrounded  the  palace 
with  groves  and  gardens  and  established  a  menagerie  in 
the  grounds.  About  eight  miles  from  the  city  all  eyes 
were  turned  toward  a  hill  on  the  European  shore,  where, 
above  a  cluster  of  buildings,  the  Stars  and  Stripes 
floated  in  the  breeze. 

"That  is  the  American  College,  which  is  doing  good 
work  in   Turkev.     It   was  founded  bv   Mr.   A.   Robert 


THE    TURKISH     STUDENTS     WAVED     HATS    AND    FLAGS. 


of  New  York,  and  is  known  as  the  'Robert  College,'" 
said  the  guide.  . 

As  our  steamer  passed  the  college,  the  Turkish 
students  from  roof,  windows,  and  campus  waved  hats, 
handkerchiefs,  and  flags,  and  cheered  energetically, 
and  the  tourists  waved  to  them  in  return.  Just  beyond 
the  college  we  passed  an  old  town  surrounded  by  ancient 
towers  and  time-worn  walls. 

"This    ancient    stronghold,"    said    the    guide,    "was 


(i8i) 


I«2 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT, 


known  as  the  Citadel  of  Europe.  The  fortress  com- 
manded the  Strait  and  enabled  the  Sultans  of  four  cen- 
turies ago  to  levy  toll  on  all  passing  vessels.  At  this 
place,  where  the  Bosporus  is  only  about  half  a  mile  wide, 
the  Persian  ruler,  Darius,  with  his  army  crossed  on  a 
bridge  of  boats  to  invade  Greece.  Here  also  the 
Crusaders  crossed  on  their  way  to  free  the  Holy  Land 
from  the  clutch  of  the  Saracens." 

The  Moltke  sailed  into  the  Black  Sea  merely  far  enough 
to  sweep  around  in  a  wide  circle  and  then,  returning 
through  the  Bosporus,  passed  by  Constantinople  and 
entered  the  Sea  of  Marmora. 

"It  seems  like  parting  with  a  dear  old  friend,"  said  a 
tourist  as  we  looked  back  on  the  fading  domes  and 
waved  farewell  to  mosque  and  minaret.  "We  have  seen 
so  much  of  the  city  in  so  short  a  time.  Every  hour  has 
been  used  to  the  best  advantage  in  the  Turkish  capital.  " 

Sunday,  March  first,  was  not  to  be  a  day  of  rest  for  the 
tourists;  for  the  Moltke  had  arrived  at  Smyrna  at  day- 
light and  was  to  remain  in  the  harbor  of  that  city  only 
until  dark. 

The  principal  reason  for  a  day's  stay  at  Smyrna  was  to 
give  an  opportunity  for  an  excursion  by  train  to  the  site 
of  ancient  Ephesus.  Many  of  the  tourists  took  this  trip 
to  see  the  few  scattered  ruins  that  mark  the  place  where 
once  stood  the  magnificent  Temple  of  Diana.  The 
clerg}^men  of  the  party  desired  to  view  the  place  where 
the  Apostle  Paul  had  fought  in  the  arena  with  wild 
beasts,  and  where  Demetrius  and  his  fellow  silversmiths 
had  led  the  rioters  against  this  Apostle  whose  preaching 
interfered  with  the  sales  of  silver  shrines  for  Diana. 


BOSPORUS  TO  PALESTINE.  183 

Other  tourists,  who  did  not  take  the  excursion  to 
Ephesus,  explored  the  narrow,  badly-paved  streets  of 
Smyrna,  and  visited  the  bazaars.  This  city  would  have 
seemed  more  interesting  to  us  but  for  our  previous 
visit  to  the  more  picturesque  Constantinople.  In  a 
crowded  street  we  encountered  a  flock  of  turkeys  driven 
by  a  native.  The  turkeys  appeared  to  understand  the 
driver's  commands  and  were  more  easily  guided  by  a 
touch  of  his  long  switch  than  would  be  a  flock  of 
sheep  passing  through  a  street  in  an  American  city. 

Setting  sail  again,  we  passed  late  in  the  evening  the 
island  of  Patmos,  where  Saint  John  wrote  the  book 
of  Revelations,  and  on  Monday  morning  we  saw  at  a 
distance  the  island  of  Rhodes,  noted  for  its  historic 
defense  by  the  Knights  of  Malta.  About  nine  o'clock 
Tuesday  morning  the  Moltke  anchored  in  the  Bay  of 
St.  George  some  distance  from  the  shore.  On  the 
surrounding  hill  slopes  rose  the  city  of  Beyrout.  Fresh- 
looking  white  and  yellow  tinted  buildings,  red-tiled 
roofs,  and  a  background  of  green  groves  and  orchards 
interspersed  with  white  villas,  gave  the  city  an  ap- 
pearance of  newness.  The  whole  scene,  with  the  snow- 
capped Mountains  of  Lebanon  beyond,  presented  a 
beautiful  picture  to  the  eye. 

"Beyrout  has  a  population  of  120,000,  and  is  a  pros- 
perous, growing  city,"  said  one  of  the  managers  of  the 
tour.  "It  is  a  centre  of  missionary  work,  and  has 
American  and  German  colleges.  The  old  streets  are 
narrow,  as  are  all  old  streets  in  Eastern  towns ;  but 
they  are  clean.  The  newer  streets  are  of  modern  width. 
Educational  advantages,  foreign  enterprise,  and  Euro- 


i84 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


pean  mercantile  firms  have  infused  new  life  into  the 
native  population. " 

Madame  Barakat,  a  native  of  Syria,  and  a  well-known 
lecturer  and  Bible  reader,  had  very  kindly  given  us 
letters  of  introduction  to  her  Syrian  relatives  in  Beyrout. 
Among  these  were  Mr.  Sarkis,  a  highly  respected  gentle- 
man who  had  been  honored  bv  the  Sultan  with  decora- 


LADEN    WITH    HUGE  TIMBERS. 


tions  for  services  to  his  country,  and  who  was  also  an 
author  and  editor  of  a  daily  newspaper;  and  Mr.  Sabra, 
his  assistant,  a  tall,  fine-looking  man.  Another  was  the 
Rev.  Mr.  Zurub,  pastor  of  the  Congregational  Church. 
The  three  gentlemen  were  able  to  converse  in  English 
as  fluently  as  in  their  own  tongue. 


(i85) 


1 86  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

We  were  very  cordially  received  by  Mr.  Sarkis,  and, 
after  meeting  and  conversing  with  the  other  gentlemen, 
were  shown  through  their  printing  house,  where  Syrian 
type-setters  were  setting  type  to  print  Arabic  letters 
that  looked  like  shorthand  characters,  and  Jewish  girls 
were  employed  binding  pamphlets.  Our  names  were 
given  to  the  printer,  and  in  a  few  minutes  he  presented 
us  with  visiting  cards  containing  the  names  in  Arabic 
letters,  thus: 


W 


"Let  us  visit  a  candy  factory  while  waiting  for  the 
carriages  I  have  ordered,"  said  Mr.  Sabra.  "I  know 
that  the  ladies  are  fond  of  sweetmeats  and  I  can  guar- 
antee these  to  be  perfectly  pure.  We  think  that  our 
candies  are  delicious,"  he  added  as  we  entered  the 
factory,  and  the  ladies  agreed  with  him  after  eating  some 
of  the  sweets. 

The  Syrians  take  pride  in  their  city,  in  its  factories, 
its  hospitals,  its  seminaries  and  colleges,  its  progressive 
business  spirit,  and  the  beauty  of  its  suburbs.  We 
visited  one  of  the  silk  factories  where  hundreds  of 
Syrian  girls  were  engaged  in  unwinding  the  cocoons  of 
delicate  gossamer  that  had  been  tediously  spun  and 
wound  by  the  silk  worms  among  the  leaves  of  the  mul- 
berry trees  in  the  great  orchards  on  the  hillsides. 

"On  the  slope  of  yonder  mountain  we  have  a  villa  in 
which  we  spend  the  hot  summer  months,"  said  Mr. 
Sabra,  pointing  to  the  distant  mountains  as  we  reached 
an  elevation  from  which  a  broad  view  was  obtained 


BOSPORUS  TO  PALESTINE. 


187 


"  If  there  had  been  time  I  would  have  taken  you  there  to 
see  one  of  the  most  beautiful  views  in  Syria.  " 

"The  landscape  is  magnificent  as  seen  from  here," 
we  replied.  The  fruitful  valley  lay  before  us,  beyond 
rose  the  verdant  hills,  and  above  all  towered  the  stately 


CACTI    IN    BEYROUT    MADE    AN    IMPENETRABLE    FENCE. 


mountains  of  Lebanon.  Villages,  hamlets,  villas,  ex- 
uberant gardens,  orchards  of  spreading  mulberry  trees, 
graceful  palms,  fig,  lemon,  and  orange  trees  enhanced 
the  beauty  of  the  scene. 


1 88  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"Our  colleges  and  schools,"  said  Mr.  Sarkis,  "are 
equal  to  those  of  a  European  city.  Our  people  are 
becoming  an  educated  people ;  almost  all  of  the  younger 
generation  can  read  and  write.  My  daughters  have  been 
educated  in  the  American  Seminary  and  can  converse 
fluently  in  French,  German,  and  English,  as  well  as  in 
Arabic." 

In  a  narrow  thoroughfare  we  passed  horses  laden 
with  long  boards  strapped  lengthwise  on  their  backs, 
and  camels  laden  with  huge  timbers  strapped  to  their 
backs  and  sides  in  the  same  manner. 

"This  is  my  home,"  said  Mr.  Sarkis,  as  the  carriage 
stopped  before  a  large  house  surrounded  by  a  small 
garden  and  a  high  wall.  "I  wish  you  to  meet  my  wife 
and  sister  and  daughters." 

Our  hostesses  were  dressed  in  the  English  fashion,  and 
our  hosts,  too,  wore  modern  English  clothes,  but  the 
red  fez  on  their  heads  designated  them  as  Turkish 
subjects.  When  we  expressed  an  interest  in  their  way 
of  living,  the  ladies  took  us  from  the  reception  room, 
which  was  furnished  in  modern  style,  into  their  garden 
where  orange  and  lemon  trees  and  semi-tropical  plants 
were  growing.  They  conducted  us  then  through  the 
spacious  marble-floored  central  hall,  permitting  us  to 
look  into  nursery  and  bedrooms  fitted  up  partly  in 
modern  and  partly  in  Oriental  style,  and  led  us  up  a  stone 
stairway  to  the  lev^l  roof,  which,  with  its  surrounding 
parapet,  recalled  the  one  described  in  "Ben  Hur. " 
Here  fruit  was  served  by  a  Syrian  maid  clad  in  the 
native  costume.  On  our  return  to  the  lower  floor,  our 
hostesses  conducted  us  to  the  divan  salon  or  Oriental 


(i89) 


I  go  A  TRIP  rO  THE  ORIENT. 

smoking  room.  There,  while  we  rested  on  low  couches, 
the  Syrian  maid  passed  around  Turkish  coffee  in  dainty 
cups,  and  then  brought  a  lighted  narghileh  from  which, 
in  turn,  each  one  present  took  a  few  whiffs  of  the  mild 
Turkish  tobacco. 

Mr.  Sarkis  told  us  that  he  had  visited  the  United 
States  at  the  time  of  the  Chicago  Exposition.  He  took 
one  hundred  and  forty  Arabian  horses  to  the  Exposition 
and  had  some  interesting  experiences  while  there. 
The  Rev.  Mr.  Zurub  had  spent  sixteen  months  in 
America  and  spoke  in  the  highest  terms  of  the  kindness 
with  which  he  had  been  received  by  the  American 
people. 

In  the  evening  a  ball  was  given  on  the  deck  of  the 
steamer,  which  had  been  tastefully  decorated  for  the 
occasion.  Our  friends,  Mr.  Sarkis,  Mrs.  Sarkis  and 
sister,  the  daughters,  Fahima,  aged  about  eighteen,  Neda, 
aged  about  fourteen,  and  a  son,  aged  about  sixteen, 
together  with  Mr.  Sabra,  came  on  board  to  visit  the 
ship.  Mr.  Sabra  sang  some  Arabic  songs  and  Fahima 
joined  him  in  a  duet. 

About  fifty  tourists  left  the  Moltke  at  Bey  rout  in 
order  to  take  the  side  trip  of  three  days  to  Damascus, 
the  oldest  city  in  history,  and  to  the  ruins  of  the  great 
Temple  of  Baal  at  Baalbek.  A  narrow-gauge  railway 
extends  across  the  Lebanon  Mountains  from  Beyrout 
to  Damascus.  The  distance  is  but  ninety  miles,  but 
as  the  train  has  to  rise  to  an  elevation  of  nearly  five 
thousand  feet  and  then  descend  to  the  valley  beyond, 
the  average  speed  does  not  exceed  ten  or  twelve  miles 
an  hour.     On  Wednesday  morning  the  steamer  stopped 


BOSPORUS  TO  PALESTINE.  191 

at  the  little  seaport  of  Haifa  just  long  enough  to  send 
ashore  sixty  passengers.  Some  of  these  wished  to  take 
the  side  trip  to  Nazareth  and  the  Sea  of  Gg,lilee  by  car- 
riage; the  others,  to  make  the  excursion  through  the 
interior  of  Palestine  on  horseback,  camping  on  the  way, 
and  rejoining  the  main  party  in  Jerusalem. 

At  noon  on  Wednesday  the  Moltke  anchored  in  the 
unprotected  harbor  of  Jaffa  over  a  mile  from  the  shore, 
as  it  is  not  safe  for  a  large  steamer  to  approach  nearer. 
This  was  the  landing  place  in  the  Mediterranean  most 
dreaded  by  the  tourists;  for  we  had  heard  of  jagged 
rocks  that  projected  their  black  heads  from  the  water, 
and  of  rough  seas  that  on  windy  days  broke  over  the 
rocks  making  the  passage  from  the  vessel  to  the  dock 
very  dangerous.  The  weather,  however,  was  fair  and 
the  sea  unusually  smooth  that  noon  as  the  tourists  one 
by  one  dropped  from  the  platform  at  the  foot  of  the 
stairway  into  the  row-boats  as  they  rose  on  the  swell 
of  the  waves.  The  boats  were  large  and  built  expressly 
for  this  dangerous  harbor.  Each  boat  was  managed 
by  eight  men,  six  rowers,  a  helmsman,  and  a  bowman, 
and  each  boat  carried  about  twenty  passengers.  As  the 
Syrians  labored  hard  at  the  oars  they  chanted  continu- 
ally a  prayer  to  Allah  for  a  fair  passage. 

After'  safely  landing  at  the  stone  steps  of  the  dock, 
we  proceeded  through  the  streets  to  the  special  train 
which  was  waiting  to  carry  us  up  to  Jerusalem,  not 
stopping  to  visit  the  traditional  house  of  Simon,  the 
tanner,  where  the  Apostle  Peter  had  a  vision  on  the 
roof. 

"The  oranges  of  Jaffa  are  noted  as  being  the  finest  in 


192 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


the  world.  Don't  fail  to  buy  some,"  said  a  gentleman 
from  California.  "We  raise  good  oranges  in  my  state, 
but  ours  are^not  quite  equal  to  those  of  Jaffa. " 

Arab  men  and  boys  surrounded  the  tourists  at  the 
station  offering  carefully  packed  baskets,  each  contain- 
ing two  or  three  dozen  fresh,  juicy    oranges  at  what 


IT    WAS    A    TYPICAL    SYRIAN    GROUP. 


seemed  an  extremely  low  price.  When  the  train  started 
every  compartment  contained  one  or  more  baskets  of 
the  delicious  fruit. 

The  journey   from  Jaffa  to   Jerusalem  was   literally 
"up;"  for  the  Sacred  City  is  nearly  three  thousand  feet 


BOSPORUS  TO  PALESTINE.  193 

above  the  sea,  and  four  hours  was  required  for  the  trip  of 
fifty -four  miles.  After  leaving  Jaffa  the  train  passed 
through  a  succession  of  interesting  panoramic  views: 
gardens  where  richness  of  soil  was  manifested  by  the 
rankness  of  the  growth  of  the  plants  and  flowers ;  groups 
of  palm  trees  with  long,  rough  trunks,  and  tufted  heads 
high  in  the  air;  long  rows  of  tall,  narrow-leaved,  ever- 
green eucalyptus  trees ;  orchards  of  orange  trees  where 
yellow  fruit  clustered  amid  the  glossy  dark  green  leaves ; 
orchards  of  almond  trees  covered  with  a  delicate  pink 
bloom;  and  orchards  of  gray  olive  trees  with  a  carpet 
of  grass  underneath,  as  beautiful  as  a  park;  bare  fig 
trees  whose  time  for  leaf  and  bloom  had  not  yet  come; 
and  fences  of  huge  leaved  prickly  cactus  plants  protect- 
ing garden  plots. 

"What  queer  looking  plows  they  have,"  said  a  com- 
panion, as  we  noticed  near  the  train  a  plowman  who 
had  stopped  his  camel,  and  thrown  his  plow,  which 
looked  like  a  crooked  root  with  a  point,  out  of  the  furrow, 
while  he  gazed  at  the  passing  train.  "The  first  gardener 
must  have  obtained  a  plow  of  the  same  kind  from  the 
original  forest. " 

In  stretches  of  sod  the  rich  brown  earth  was  being 
turned  up  by  farmers  with  teams  of  camels,  one  great 
camel  to  each  little  wooden  plow,  or  with  teams  composed 
of  an  ox  and  an  ass  hitched  together.  In  one  field  twelve 
camel  teams  were  plowing  the  sod.  We  use  the  word 
field,  but  there  were  no  fences  except  the  cactus  hedges 
around  small  plots.  The  farm  boundaries  from  ancient 
times  have  been  marked  by  corner  stones  to  which 
Moses  referred  when  he  gave  the  law:     "Cursed  be  he 

13 


194  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

that  removeth  his  neighbor's  landmark."  We  were  in 
the  midst  of  historic  places  mentioned  in  the  Bible.  To 
the  north  lay  the  fertile  level  fields  of  the  Plain  of  Sharon. 
Fields  of  young  wheat  were  beautified  by  the  roses  of 
Sharon, — red  poppies  with  black  centres  and  short 
stems, — which  dotted  the  carpet  of  green  with  flecks  of 
red.  At  Lydda,  where  Peter  healed  the  man  who  had 
the  palsy,  Arab  urchins  begged  the  passengers  to  buy 
little  bunches  of  the  red  poppies  and  other  wild  flowers 
that  they  offered  for  sale.  To  the  south  stretched  the 
Plain  of  Philistia,  the  scene  of  Samson's  adventures, 
and  the  fields  through  which  he  sent  the  three  hundred 
foxes  with  firebrands  tied  to  their  tails.  In  that  direc- 
tion also  lay  battle  fields  where  Philistines  and  Israelites 
struggled  for  supremacy. 

The  towns  and  villages  on  the  route  were  small  and 
mean.  The  better  buildings  were  constructed  of  stone 
with  flat  stone  roofs,  but  many  were  made  of  mud  with 
mud  roofs  on  which  a  crop  of  grass  was  growing.  After 
the  first  hour's  ride,  fertile  rolling  plains  succeeded  the 
level  sandy  loam.  When  about  thirty  miles  from 
Jaffa,  after  a  two  hours'  ride,  the  hill  country  of  Judea 
was  entered.  From  that  point  the  train  traveled  slowly 
and  laboriously  up  the  hills  and  mountains  by  steep 
gradients.  Overhead  in  the  limestone  cliffs  were  many 
caves,  one  of  which  was  pointed  out  as  Samson's  Grotto. 
Wherever  there  was  any  soil  among  the  rocks  and  stones, 
the  grass  grew  luxuriantly,  making  good  pasture  for  the 
herds  of  nimble-footed  black  goats  that  picked  their 
way  along  the  steep  and  rocky  mountain  side.  The 
red  rose  of  Sharon  grew  in  profusion  and  took  possession 


(195) 


196 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


of  the  uncultivated  ground  around  the  trees  and  between 
the  rocks.  At  many  places  the  abundance  of  these 
poppies  and  the  beauty  of  their  groupings  gave  to  the 
land  the  appearance  of  a  park  planned  and  laid  out  by 
a  landscape  gardener.  Nearer  the  summit  the  hills 
were  bleak  and  barren.  Here  was  the  village  of  Bittir, 
a  group  of  little  stone  houses  clinging  to  the  mountain 


THEY   CHANTED    A    PRAYER   TO    ALLAH. 

side,  where  terraces  supported  by  stone  walls  held  up 
small  gardens  on  which  cauliflower  and  other  vege- 
tables were  growing. 

"For  the  past  hour, "  said  a  lady  who  had  been  intent- 
ly gazing  out  of  the  window  of  the  car,  "yes,  for  a  longer 
time,  I  have  been  looking  forward  expecting  to  see  a 
city  burst  forth  impressively  into  sight,  a  city  upon  a 
raountain    top,     'beautiful    for    situation.'     Now    the 


BOSPORUS  TO  PALESTINE.  197 

conductor  tells  us  that  we  are  nearing  our  destination, 
and  yet  cliffs  and  hills  are  all  that  we  can  see.  Where 
is  Jerusalem?     *A  city  set  upon  a  hill  cannot  be  hid.'" 

"You  have  not  read  your  Bible  closely,"  replied  a 
minister  in  our  compartment.  "David  said,  'The  moun- 
tains are  round  about  Jerusalem. '  As  it  was  then  so 
we  shall  find  it  now,  on  hills  surrounded  by  other  hills. 
Do  not  expect  to  see  the  city  of  Solomon's  time  which 
the  Queen  of  Sheba  came  to  visit.  Its  glory  departed 
eighteen  centuries  ago.  I  fear  that  your  imagination 
has  led  you  to  expect  more  than  the  modern  Turkish 
town  which  we  shall  find,  and  you  may  feel  like  lament- 
ing with  Jeremiah,  'Is  this  the  city  that  men  call  the 
perfection  of  beauty,  the  joy  of  the  whole  earth? '  " 

It  was  not  until  we  were  approaching  the  railway 
station,  which  is  situated  in  the  suburbs  about  a  mile 
from  the  city,  that  we  obtained  a  view  of  the  yellow 
walls  and  buildings  of  the  Holy  City,  and  the  sight  then 
was  not  impressive,  as  we  had  expected.  Then  at  the 
station,  amid  the  noisy  cries  of  many  Arab  drivers,  we 
obtained  seats  in  carriages,  and  were  driven  at  break- 
neck speed  over  a  good  road  down  into  the  valley  of 
Hinnom  and  up  a  long  hill  to  the  Jaffa  gate.  v 

The  party  had  been  divided  by  the  managers  into 
sections  for  the  various  hotels,  and  each  tourist  had  been 
given  a  card, with  the  name  of  his  hotel.  Those  who 
were  to  go  to  hotels  outside  the  walls  of  the  city  pro- 
ceeded directly  to  their  destination  in  carriages.  Those 
who  were  to  stay  within  the  walls  descended  from  the 
conveyances  in  front  of  the  Grand  Hotel  just  within  the 
Jaffa  gate,  and  went  the  rest  of  the  way  on  foot  through 


198  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

narrow  streets  that  carriages  could  not  enter.  The 
writer  was  assigned  to  the  Casa  Nova,  or  Hospitium 
Franciscanum,  a  monastery  or  hospital  built  expressly 
for  the  accommodation  of  pilgrims  to  the  Holy  City,  and 
controlled  and  managed  by  Franciscan  monks. 


CHAPTER  XI. 
JERUSALEM. 

ON  Wednesday  evening,  after  our  arrival  at 
Jerusalem,  we  visited  a  small  store  to  purchase  a 
guide-book  of  the  city.  But  the  merchant  would 
not  accept  our  French  or  English  money,  and  we  had  no 
Turkish  money.  We  laid  the  book  down,  but  the  dealer 
said,  "You  take  the  book  and  pay  me  another  time.  " 

"Are  you  willing  to  trust  a  stranger?"  we  inquired. 

"Yes!"  he  replied,  "I  trust  American  any  time. 
You  may  buy  goods,  all  you  want,  three  hundred  dollars' 
worth.  I  trust  you.  When  you  go  home  to  America, 
then  you  send  me  the  money.  " 

"Were  you  never  cheated?"  we  asked. 

"No,"  he  answered,  "I  trust  American  many  time. 
American  always  pay,  but  me  not  trust  Frenchman; 
Frenchman  forget." 

Glad  to  know  that  our  countrymen  bear  such  a  good 
reputation,  we  took  the  book  without  giving  our  names, 
merely  telling  him  that  we  were  staying  at  the  Casa 
Nova  and  would  pay  the  next  day. 

In  our  country  we  can  travel  from  Maine  to  California 
with  one  kind  of  money.  All  that  is  necessary  is  to 
have  plenty  of  it.  But  in  these  foreign  lands  the  cur- 
rency changes  as  we  move  from  one  country  to  another, 
so  that  we  may  have  a  pocket  full  of  money  and  yet 
not  be  able  to  pay  our  bills.     At  Funchal,  Portuguese 

(199) 


200  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

money  was  current ;  at  Gibraltar  and  at  Malta,  English 
money;  at  Granada,  Spanish;  at  Algiers,  French;  at 
Athens,  Greek;  at  Constantinople  and  Jerusalem,  Turk- 
ish. In  Cairo  another  coinage  was  current,  and  in 
Italy  the  Turkish  and  Egyptian  coins  left  over  had  to  be 
sold  to  the  money  changers  or  taken  home  as  souvenirs. 
In  large  cities  the  hotels  and  larger  stores  accepted 
American,  English,  and  French  money  at  its  value,  but 
small  dealers  and  individuals  knew  nothing  of  foreign 
coins  and  wanted  payment  in  their  own  currency. 
As  it  was  desirable  at  all  times  to  have  plenty  of  small 
coins  on  hand,  the  tourists  soon  became  acquainted 
with  the  value  of  shillings  and  pence,  francs  and  cen- 
times, drachmae  and  lepta,  piasters  and  paras.  On 
our  arrival  at  each  port  the  managers  of  the  tour  and  the 
purser  of  the  vessel  obtained  a  large  number  of  small 
coins  of  that  particular  country  so  that  the  needs  of  the 
tourists  could  be  promptly  supplied. 

Our  room  at  the  Hospice  was  rather  cold  but  my 
room-mate  said  there  was  one  compensation,  we  need 
have  no  fear  of  the  hotel's  burning  down  and  so  need 
not  be  anxious  as  to  the  location  of  the  fire  escapes 
before  retiring.  The  Casa  Nova  is  a  stone  building 
with  stone  stairways  and  floors.  In  our  room  there  was 
nothing  inflammable  but  the  mosquito  nettings  and  lace 
draperies  over  the  iron  bedsteads.  Two  candles  fur- 
nished us  with  light,  hempen  rugs  covered  portions  of 
the  black  and  white  marble  floor,  a  gilded  crucifix  hung 
on  the  painted  stone  wall,  and  two  chairs,  a  small  table, 
and  a  washstand  completed  the  furnishing. 

Early  Thursday  morning,  with  bright   anticipations, 


(20l) 


202 


A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


we  started  for  a  visit  to  Bethlehem.     The  drive  of  six 
miles   over   a   good   limestone   road   was   one   of   much 


CAMELS     SINGLE    AND    CAMELS    IN    TRAINS. 

interest.     Our  dragoman  pointed  out  the  well  where  the 
wise  men,  stooping  to  drink,  saw  the  reflection  of  the 


JERUSALEM.  203 

star  in  the  water  before  they  beheld  the  star  itself  in  the 
sky. 

"Why,  how  could  that  be?"  inquired  one  of  the  party. 
"I  thought  the  wise  men  were  following  the  star." 

But  the  guide  did  not  attempt  to  explain.  It  was  his 
business  to  state  facts  in  which  he  had  beHeved  all  his 
life ;  not  to  enter  into  disputes  with  unbelievers  as  to  the 
truth  of  his  statements.  He  showed  us  a  great  rock  in 
the  road  where  Elijah,  wearied  in  his  flight,  lay  down 
to  rest.     It  seemed  to  be  a  hard  bed  for  a  tired  man,  but 


^IHIL     ^^ 

^^^^ 

^'^^ — 

w.            ^ 

i^i  K 

li 

at 

A  kjivi 

kftii 

J 

IP 

*"~- 

RECALLED   TO    :MEM0RY   THE   OLD   LOVE    STORY. 

we  remembered  that  in  olden  times  rocks  and  caves 
were  selected  for  sleeping-places  and  stones  often  served 
for  pillows. 

Camels  were  so  numerous  on  the  road  that  they  lost 
their  novelty, — camels  single  and  camels  in  trains,  with 
great  hampers  swinging  at  their  sides  laden  with  sacks 
of  lime  or  charcoal,  with  building  stone  or  cauliflower, 
with  fish  or  flagstones,  with  chunks  of  wood  and  gnarled 
roots,  with  bags  of  grain  and  crates  of  vegetables,  each 


204  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

camel  carrying  a  quantity  about  equal  to  a  one-horse 
wagon  load.  From  a  hill-top  we  caught  a  glimpse  of  the 
Dead  Sea  lying  far  below  us  in  the  valley  twenty  miles 
away.  We  met  women  on  their  way  to  market  with 
heavy  baskets  of  cauliflower  and  other  vegetables 
poised  on  their  heads,  men  bending  under  distended 
goat-skins  filled  with  water  or  wine  strapped  to  their 
shoulders,  donkeys  bearing  basket -panniers  filled  with 
produce  or  laden  with  bags  of  grain  heaped  on  their 
backs,  Greek  priests  in  black  robes  and  high  hats  carry- 
ing white  umbrellas  for  protection  from  the  sun,  and 
turbaned  Arabs  in  brown  robes  plodding  along  with 
staves  in  their  hands. 

The  mountainous  suburbs  of  the  city  are  composed 
of  limestone,  and  the  limestone  rocks  cropped  out  on 
every  side.  The  rocks  protruding  from  the  soil  were  of 
a  light  gray  color,  but  the  broken  rocks,  the  fences,  and 
the  houses  built  of  stone  had  changed  to  a  light  yellow 
shade  from  exposure  to  the  weather.  The  fields  were 
covered  with  stones  except  where  little  patches  had  been 
cleared  with  great  labor  and  the  stones  built  into  fences 
surrounding  the  small  plots.  The  hill-sides  were  almost 
bare  of  soil.  Where  the  stones  had  been  cleared  away, 
the  soil  of  decomposed  limestone  produced  a  luxuriant 
growth.  The  cauliflower  carried  to  market  was  the 
finest  we  had  ever  seen.  The  few  scattered  olive  trees 
in  the  valleys  appeared  strong  and  healthy  in  their 
light  green  foliage.  The  fig  trees  were  bare,  but  oc- 
casional groups  of  almond  trees  were  covered  with  pink 
bloom. 

During  our  drive  we  saw  peasants  plowing  little  plots 


JERUSALEM, 


205 


with  single  donkeys  and  crooked  wooden  plows,  or 
digging  between  rocks  and  around  grape  vines  with 
clumsy,  heavy -looking  hoes.  The  grape  vines  were 
trimmed  back  to  within  three  or  four  feet  of  the  ground 
and  were  not  supported  or  trellised.  Women  gathered 
the  trimmings  of  the  vines,  bound  them  into  fagots, 


IN    THE    NARROW    STREETS   OF   BETHLEHEM. 


placed  the  fagots  on  their  heads,  and  carried  them  away 
to  the  city  for  firewood.  Not  a  sprig  was  wasted.  The 
old  roots  that  were  dug  out  of  the  ground  were  borne 
away  in  the  same  manner.  In  a  country  without  forests 
and  without  coal  everything  that  will  burn  is  utilized. 
We  saw  girls  carrying  flat  baskets  on  their  heads  and 
the  guide  satisfied  our  curiosity  by  explaining  that  the 


2o6 


A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT, 


baskets  contained  dried  cakes  of  camels'  dung  which 
the  giris  had  gathered  and  were  taking  home  for  fuel. 
Rachel's  tomb,  situated  four  miles  from  Jerusalem, 
and  about  two  miles  from  Bethlehem,  recalled  to  memory 
the  old  love  story:     "And  Jacob  served  Laban  seven 


THE    PEOPLE    OF    BETHLEHEM    WERE    BRIGHT    AND    CHEERFUL. 


years  for  Rachel;  and  they  seemed  unto  him  but  a  few 
days,  for  the  love  he  had  for  her.  " 

Cut  in  the  rock,  near  Bethlehem,  is  an  ancient  well, 
known  as  the  well  of  David.  From  that  point  we  ob- 
tained a  good  view  of  the  square  stone  houses  of  the 


JERUSALEM.  207 

little  town  of  Bethlehem,  which  is  built  on  a  sloping 
hill-side,  and  of  the  great  spreading  Church  of  the 
Nativity,  which  is  the  dominating  feature  of  the  place. 
Beyond  the  city  we  saw  a  verdant  plain,  where  possibly 
Ruth  gleaned,  and,  farther  away,  the  hills  where  prob- 
ably David  led  his  flock  to  "green  pastures"  and  the 
shepherds  of  later  days  received  the  "tidings  of  great 

joy." 

In  the  narrow  streets  of  Bethlehem  our  driver  shouted 
to  men,  women,  and  children  to  clear  the  way  and  make 
room  for  the  carriages  to  pass  through,  snapping  his 
whip  at  them  if  they  did  not  quickly  obey.  When  we 
arrived  at  the  old  Church  of  the  Holy  Nativity  we  were 
told  that  this  venerable  place  is  in  reality  a  group  of 
buildings,  the  original  edifice  having  been  built  fifteen 
or  more  centuries  ago,  and  many  additions  having  been 
made  in  after  years.  We  saw  a  structure  of  yellowish 
stone  walls  pierced  with  small  windows  which  appeared 
to  us  more  like  a  prison  or  a  fortress  than  a  place  of 
worship.  There  were  no  stained  glass  windows.  There 
was  no  imposing  portal  opening  into  the  temple.  On 
entering  the  sacred  enclosure  we  passed  through  a  door 
in  the  stone  wall  so  low  that  we  were  compelled  to  stoop 
and  so  narrow  that  but  one  at  a  time  might  enter. 

"This  doorway,"  said  the  guide,  "should  remind  the 
pilgrims  that  the  birthplace  of  the  Savior  is  to  be 
visited  with  humulity  and  reverence.  " 

In  the  large,  time-worn  interior  of  the  church,  faded 
mosaics,  huge  columns,  and  stone  floors  presented  a 
rather  gloomy  aspect.  The  tourists  hastened  through 
and  descended  to  the  cr\^pt  or  vault  underneath  the 


2o8  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

church.  This  vault  was  paved  with  marble,  and  on  a 
raised  platform  in  the  centre  was  a  large,  handsomely 
decorated  altar.  Suspended  from  the  ceiling  were  many 
ancient  lamps  of  curious  make  and  smaller  lamps  hang- 
ing in  festoons.  On  one  side  was  a  small  room,  called 
the  Chapel  of  the  Nativity,  where  thirty  gold  and  silver 
lamps  threw  a  dim,  soft  light  on  the  scene  below.  In 
the  pavement  before  an  altar  was  a  star  of  silver,  and 
the  words: 

"Hie  de  Virgine  Maria  Jesus  Christus  natus  est." 

Opposite  and  near  the  Chapel  of  the  Nativity  was 
another  small,  rock-walled  room  called  the  Chapel  of  the 
Manger.  In  this  room  the  dim  light  of  golden  lamps 
revealed  a  white  marble  manger  in  which  a  large  wax 
doll  reclined. 

"The  original  wooden  manger  or  cradle  in  which  the 
infant  Jesus  reposed  was  taken  to  Rome, "  explained  the 
guide.  "If  you  return  by  way  of  Rome  you  may  see  it 
in  the  great  church  of  Santa  Maria  Maggiore." 

"The  care  of  the  chapels,  shrines,  and  holy  places  of 
the  Church  of  the  Nativity, "  he  continued,  "is  appointed 
to  the  Latin,  Greek,  and  Armenian  churches.  The 
space  inside  the  building  is  divided.  Each  sect  has  its 
own  particular  portion  to  care  for,  and  an  intense 
jealousy  exists  among  the  rival  religious  bodies.  If 
the  rug  of  the  Armenian  is  accidentally  pushed  over  the 
Latin  line,  the  action  is  resented.  If  the  broom  of  the 
Latin  while  cleansing  intrudes  upon  the  Greek  domain, 
there  is  trouble.  Disputes  have  arisen  from  very 
slight    causes,    blows    have    been    exchanged,    rioting, 


THIS  ROUND-TOPPED  RIDGE  IS  CALLED  THE  MOUNT  OF  OLWES. 


14 


(209) 


iio  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

blood-shed,  and  murder  have  followed.  Priests  at 
times  have  fought  with  priests  until  the  Turkish  soldiers 
intervened.  Now,  by  the  Sultan's  orders,  Moslem 
guards  are  stationed  in  the  church  to  restrain  the  im- 
petuous caretakers  and  prevent  disturbances." 

In  one  of  the  underground  chapels  of  the  church,  a 
dark  and  gloomy  cavern  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  the 
guide  said:  "In  this  grotto  Saint  Jerome  passed  thirty 
years  fasting,  praying,  meditating,  and  writing.  His 
last  communion  was  taken  here." 

We  remembered  that  Domenichino's  celebrated  paint- 
ing in  the  Vatican  at  Rome,  called  the  "Last  Communion 
of  St.  Jerome,"  represented  the  aged  saint  dying  amid 
luxurious  surroundings. 

When  we  came  out  of  the  church,  bright-faced  boys 
and  girls  urged  us  to  buy  their  wares  or  accompany  them 
to  the  shops.  The  little  town  appeared  to  prosper  from 
the  manufacture  and  sale  of  souvenirs  of  carved  mother- 
of-pearl  and  olive-wood.  Crosses,  crucifixes,  rosaries, 
beads,  glove-boxes,  writing  desks,  inkstands,  napkin 
rings,  paper  knives,  and  forks  were  offered  as  genuine 
wood  from  the  olive  trees  of  David's  town,  and  the 
mother-of-pearl  mementoes  were  carved  with  minute 
scenes  of  events  in  the  life  of  Christ  and  of  places  in  the 
Holy  Land. 

After  the  purchase  of  olive  wood  souvenirs  had  been 
made,  the  drive  was  continued  to  the  Pools  which  Sol- 
omon had  built  to  collect  water  for  use  in  the  Temple. 
These  are  situated  among  the  hills  about  eight  miles 
from  Jerusalem.  The  stone  walls  of  the  reservoirs 
were  so  well  constructed  by  Solomon's  architects  three 


(2Il) 


212  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

thousand  years  ago  that  to-day  the  masonry  is  in 
ahnost  perfect  condition.  The  Pools,  we  were  informed 
are  not  in  use  at  the  present  time,  although  water  is 
conveyed  in  pipes  to  Jerusalem  from  springs  near-by. 

The  glare  of  the  sun  on  the  white  road  and  gray  rocks, 
the  lack  of  green  in  the  bare  landscape,  and  the  fine 
dust  from  the  limestone  caused  a  slight  smarting  in  the 
eyes  of  the  travelers.  So  it  was  with  relief  that  in  the 
suburbs  of  the  city,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  Damascus 
gate,  we  descended  a  long  flight  of  stone  steps  into  the 
shade  of  an  excavation  in  the  rocks  about  twenty  feet 
in  depth.  This  open  chamber,  known  as  the  Tombs  of 
the  Kings,  is  about  ninety  feet  square.  At  one  side  is  a 
doorway  in  the  rock  four  feet  high  and  thirty  inches 
wide,  and  beside  the  doorway  stood  a  huge  stone, 
rounded  at  the  corners,  that  might,  by  the  united  efforts 
of  several  men,  be  rolled  in  front  of  the  entrance  so  as  to 
close  it  completely.  We  crawled  through  the  hole  in  the 
rock  and  entered  a  cavern.  The  candles  of  the  guides 
revealed  on  each  side  of  the  cavern  small  rooms  or  caves 
containing  shelves  or  apertures  which  had  been  used 
as  the  sepulchres  of  the  Kings. 

Jerusalem,  situated  on  four  hills,  is  surrounded  by 
hills  which  are  separated  from  the  city  and  from  each 
other  by  deep  valleys  or  gulleys.  We  drove  from 
Jerusalem  to  the  Mount  of  Olives  over  a  well  constructed 
modern  limestone  road  that  wound  among  these  hills 
and  valleys  in  long  curves  and  horseshoes  in  order  to 
reach  a  place  that  seemed  almost  within  a  stone's 
throw. 

"The  summit  of  this  round-topped  ridge,  which  is 


CAREFULLY    TENDED    AND    GUARDED    BY    FRANCISCAN    MONKS. 


(213) 


214  ^   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

called  the  Mount  of  Olives,  is  owned  by  Russia," 
explained  the  guide,  "and  the  Russians  have  erected  an 
observation  tower,  a  chapel,  and  other  buildings  upon 
it.  These  buildings  are  surrounded  by  a  courtyard 
enclosed  within  high  stone  walls,  and  a  fee  must  be  paid 
at  the  gate  in  order  to  gain  admittance.  Within  the 
court  a  small  circular  pavilion  covers  the  place  from 
which,  it  is  claimed,  the  ascension  of  the  Savior  was 
made. " 

As  we  approached  the  gate,  a  group  of  Russian  men 
and  women  were  seen  coming  sadly  away.  We  were 
informed  later  that  these  peasants,  after  tramping  a  long 
distance  on  a  holy  pilgrimage  in  order  to  kneel  down  and 
kiss  the  stone  that  marked  the  sacred  spot  of  the  Ascen- 
sion of  their  Lord,  were  refused  admittance  because 
the}^  had  not  the  required  fee  to  pay  for  entrance.  In 
a  Roman  Catholic  church,  built  on  the  spot  on  Olivet 
where  Christ  is  said  to  have  taught  His  disciples  to  pray, 
the  Lord's  Prayer  is  displayed  on  charts  in  large  letters 
in  thirty -six  different  languages,  so  that  pilgrims  from 
all  parts  of  the  world  can  read  the  prayer  in  their  own 
tongue. 

From  the  summit  of  Olivet,  which  is  two  hundred 
feet  above  the  city  of  Jerusalem,  we  looked  down  over  the 
Holy  City ;  but  a  finer  panoramic  view  of  the  surrounding 
country  was  obtained  afterwards  from  the  Russian 
observation  tower.  The  climbing  of  the  two  hundred 
stone  steps  which  lead  to  the  top  of  the  tower  was  not 
easy,  but  we  felt  amply  repaid  by  the  magnificence  of 
the  view.  Near  the  foot  of  the  mountain  la}^  the  Garden 
of  Gethsemane.     Bevond  and  four  hundred  feet  below 


(215) 


2i6  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

us,  the  little  brook  Kedron  trickled  through  the  narrow 
Valley  of  Jehoshaphat.  Across  the  valley  on  the  op- 
posite heights  of  Mount  Moriah,  only  half  a  mile  away 
in  a  direct  line,  prominent  in  the  foreground,  stood  the 
Mosque  of  Omar,  and  back  of  it  rose  the  square  roof 
and  round  domes  of  the  city  buildings.  Away  off  to  the 
east,  deep  down  in  the  valley,  we  could  see  a  portion  of 
the  Dead  Sea  and  could  trace  the  Valley  of  the  River 
Jordan. 

We  walked  from  the  summit  of  the  Mount  of  Olives 
down  a  steep,  rocky,  crooked,  narrow  lane,  hemmed 
in  by  stone  walls,  to  the  foot  of  the  slope,  as  it  is  con- 
sidered too  dangerous  for  the  tourists  to  remain  in  the 
carriages  while  descending  this  short  cut  to  a  lower  road. 
The  carriages  rejoined  us  later.  At  the  foot  of  the  hill 
there  was  a  piece  of  land  about  half  an  acre  in  extent 
enclosed  by  a  white  stone  fence.  Within  the  enclosure 
was  a  garden  surrounded  by  an  iron  fence.  Between 
the  stone  fence  and  the  iron  railing  was  a  wide  path. 
Within  the  garden  were  eight  gnarled  olive  trees  that 
appeared  to  be  of  great  age,  and  flower  beds  which  were 
carefully  tended  and  guarded  by  Franciscan  monks. 
It  was  not  necessary  for  the  guide  to  tell  us  that  this  was 
the  Garden  of  Gethsemane.  Small  shrines  with  pic- 
tures above  them,  fourteen  in  all,  representing  the  four- 
teen traditionary  stations  of  the  Via  Dolorosa,  were 
arranged  at  intervals  along  the  path  around  the  garden. 
Before  these  shrines  pilgrims  were  kneeling  in  prayer. 
As  we  were  leaving  the  garden  an  old  monk  with  ton- 
sured head,  in  long  brown  robe  girt  about  with  a  hempen 
cord  and  having  sandals  laced  on  his  bare  feet,  presented 


(217) 


2i8  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

each  of  us  with  a  flower  from  the  garden  and  a  few  leaves 
from  one  of  the  ancient  oHve  trees. 

The  Tomb  and  Chapel  of  the  Virgin,  which  is  but  a 
short  distance  from  Gethsemane,  had  a  venerable 
aspect,  and  the  olive  trees  surrounding  it  were  patriarch- 
al in  appearance.  We  crossed  the  sunken  court  and 
descended  a  broad  staircase  of  sixty  steps  to  a  gloomy 
chapel  which  seemed  to  have  been  excavated  in  the 
rock. 

' '  These  tombs  on  the  right  are  the  tombs  of  the  parents 
of  the  Virgin,  Joachim  and  Anna, "  said  the  guide  as  we 
halted  in  the  dim  light.  "That  tomb  on  the  left  is  the 
tomb  of  Joseph,  the  husband  of  Mary.  The  small 
chapel  at  the  end  of  the  grotto  contains  the  empty  tomb 
of  the  risen  virgin.  " 

On  the  road  to  Bethany  we  passed  many  trains  of 
pack  mules,  twenty  or  thirty  in  a  train,  and  caravans 
of  camels  striding  along  in  single  file.  A  light  rope  or 
chain  connected  the  leading  camel  with  the  others  and 
kept  them  from  straggling. 

The  Arab  who  drove  our  carriage  told  us  that  he  was  a 
scholar.  He  explained  by  stating  that  he  could  con- 
verse fluently  in  four  languages,  besides  his  own  native 
Arabic  tongue.  These  languages  were  Turkish,  Rus- 
sian, Latin,  and  French,  and  in  addition,  he  knew  enough 
English  to  give  some  information  to  the  tourists.  The 
linguistic  ignorance  of  the  occupants  of  his  carriage 
seemed  to  impress  him  with  the  idea  that  education  in 
America  is  neglected. 

Bethany,  barely  two  miles  distant  from  Jerusalem,  is 
a  poor  little  village  with  steep,  rough,  dirty  lanes  and 


(219) 


220 


.4   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


a  number  of  old  and  dilapidated  small  stone  houses 
amid  broken  walls  of  other  houses  which  evidently  have 
been  equally  insignificant.  One  of  these  piles  was 
pointed  out  by  the  Bethany  guides  as  the  ruins  of  the 
home  of  Marv  and  Martha,  and  we  were  then  taken  to  a 


AT    THE    EXTRAXCE    TO    THE    TOMB    OF    LAZARUS. 

narrow  lane  where  a  dark  and  slimy  stairway  led  down 
to  the  reputed  tomb  of  Lazarus.  Our  dragoman,  who 
firmly  believed  in  the  traditions  of  the  country,  said  that 
he  could  not  vouch  for  the  statements  made  by  the 
Bethany  local  guides. 

Returning    to    Jerusalem,    we    visited    the    so-called 


JERUSALEM. 


221 


palace  of  Caiaphas,  the  High  Priest.     This  palace  is  an 
excavated  ruin.     Steps  lead  down  to  the  marble  floor, 


THE  RLINS   OF  THE   HOME  OF   MARV     XM'      '      l      MA. 

which  is  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  below  the  present  level 
of  the  street. 

"The  circle  on  the  pavement,"  said  the  custodian, 


222  .4   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"marks  the  place  where  Peter  stood  with  the  soldiers, 
warming  his  hands  by  the  little  fire  which  they  had 
kindled  in  a  brazier,  when  he  was  accused  by  the  maid 
of  being  a  companion  and  follower  of  the  Prisoner  then 
on  trial  before  the  High  Priest.  The  stone  pillar  that 
you  see  in  the  courtyard  of  the  palace  is  the  stone  on 
which  the  cock  was  perched  when  its  crowing  quickened 
Peter's  memory,  softened  his  heart,  and  brought  bitter 
tears  to  his  eyes. " 

After  leaving  the  palace  we  followed  the  guide  through 
a  rough  narrow  street  to  a  view  point  on  the  wall.  Far 
below  us  lay  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  the  village  of 
Siloam,  and  the  site  of  the  pool  to  which  Jesus  sent  the 
blind  man  to  wash. 

"The  walk  to  the  pool  through  the  rough  and  crooked 
streets  would  be  difficult  now  for  a  man  with  good  sight,  " 
remarked  one  of  the  tourists,  "how  much  more  so  would 
it  be  to  a  blind  man  groping  his  way. " 

Permission  to  visit  the  Temple  Area,  or  Haram,  as  it 
is  called  by  the  Moslems,  had  been  obtained  from  the 
Turkish  authorities  by  the  pa3^ment  of  heavy  fees.  We 
proceeded  to  that  place  on  foot  accompanied  by  the 
dragoman.  At  the  gate,  of  the  Area  the  authorities 
furnished  Moslem  guides  to  conduct  the  visitors  through 
the  enclosure,  and  sent  Turkish  soldiers  to  accompany 
the  party  to  restrain  any  possible  irreverent  or  unseemly 
conduct  while  within  the  holy  precincts. 

"The  Temple  Area,  which  probably  covers  the  place 
where  was  once  the  Court  of  the  Temple,  "  explained  the 
dragoman,  as  we  halted  within  the  grounds,  "is  thirty- 
five  acres  in  extent,  about  one  thousand  feet  wide  by 


(223) 


2  24  ^  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

two  thousand  feet  in  length,  and  is  surrounded  by  high 
walls.  It  is  revered  by  the  Moslems  as  one  of  their  most 
holy  places.  This  is  the  Mount  Moriah  hallowed  by  the 
sacrifices  of  Abraham,  glorified  by  the  prayers  of  King 
David,  consecrated  by  the  Temple  of  Solomon,  and 
made  additionally  sacred  b}^  the  ascension  of  the  Prophet 
of  Allah.  The  Moslems  forbid  the  entrance  of  Jews  into 
the  Haram,  although  the  Jews  have  as  great  reverence 
for  the  place  as  the  Moslems. " 

In  the  centre  of  the  Area,  on  a  raised  embankment  or 
platform,  paved  with  marble  slabs,  stood  a  handsome 
octagonal  building  covered  below  the  window  line  with 
marbles  of  various  hues  and  above  that  line  by  decorated 
tiles  of  blue-and-white  porcelain  edged  with  green.  As 
we  stood  on  the  marble  pavement  and  gazed  at  the  tiling 
mellowed  by  age,  and  at  the  round  lead-covered  dome 
above,  the  guide  continued  his  explanations. 

"This  edifice,  called  by  the  Moslems  the  Dome  of  the 
Rock,*'  said  he,  "but  better  known  as  the  Mosque  of 
Omar,  is  built  on  the  site  of  the  Temple  of  Herod,  and 
also  on  the  site  of  the  Temple  of  Solomon,  w^hich  pre- 
ceded that  of  Herod.  Each  side  of  the  octagon  is 
sixty-six  feet  in  length,  and  the  top  of  the  dome  is  one 
hundred  and  fifteen  feet  above  this  platform." 

Underneath  a  small  pavilion  at  the  entrance,  atten- 
dants laced  slippers  to  our  feet  and  then  conducted  us 
into  the  Mosque.  On  the  floor  lay  precious  Oriental 
rugs.  Overhead  in  the  dome,  the  light  entered  through 
richly  stained  glass  windows,  tinting  and  beautifying 
the  interior  and  disclosing  the  mosaic  decorations  of  the 
ceiling  and  the  Arabic  inscriptions  on  the  walls.     At 


JERUSALEM. 


225 


one  side  was  an  exquisitely  carved  wooden  pulpit  inlaid 
with  ivory  and  mother-of-pearl.  In  the  centre  of  the 
Mosque  a  great  rock,  at  least  fifty  feet  long  and  almost 
as  wide,  rose  to  the  height  of  our  heads.     A  beautifully 


WE   WILL  TAKE  THE   PICTURE   AND   INCLUDE   THE  Tl^RKS    IN    IT. 

designed,  gilded  and  bronzed  iron  railing  prevented  infi- 
del fingers  from  touching  the  rock. 

"This  mountain-top,  the  crown  of  Mount  Moriah," 
said  the  Moslem  dragoman,  as  we  stood  reverently  before 
it,  "is  the  place  where  the  arm  of  Abraham  was  stayed 
as  he  lifted  the  knife  to  slay  his  son.  This  rock,  in 
David's  time,  was  the  threshing  floor  of  Araunah,  whose 

X5 


226  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

oxen  trampled  out  the  grain  upon  it  until  the  time  when 
King  David  purchased  the  land  and  built  here  an  altar 
to  the  Lord.  When  King  Solomon  erected  the  temple 
upon  the  site  prepared  and  dedicated  by  his  father  David, 
this  Holy  Rock  became  the  altar  upon  which  the  priests 
of  the  temple  offered  sacrifices.  When  Mohammed,  the 
Prophet  of  God,  took  his  flight  to  Heaven  he  rose  from 
this  sanctified  place,  which  is  nearer  to  Heaven  than  any 
other  spot  on  earth,  leaving  as  a  memorial  the  impression 
of  his  foot  which  you  now  see  there  in  the  rock.  The 
print  of  the  hand  in  the  rock  near  the  footprint  was  made 
by  thfe  angel  Gabriel  when  he  prevented  the  rock  from 
following  the  Prophet  in  his  ascent." 

At  the  foot  of  the  flight  of  steps  which  the  tourists 
descended  on  their  way  from  the  marble  platform  of  the 
Dome  of  the  Rock  to  the  Mosque  of  El  Aksa,  the  tourists 
encountered  Turkish  photographers,  who,  hoping  that 
the  Americans  would  gladly  make  use  of  their  services, 
had  been  patiently  awaiting  their  arrival.  But  the 
tourists  were  well  supplied  with  their  own  outfits,  and 
these  amateurs,  disdaining  the  offered  professional 
services,  secured  snapshots  themselves. 

"What!"  said  one  of  the  amateurs  indignantly,  "let 
the  Turks  take  us?  No!  let  some  of  the  party  stay 
on  the  steps  and  we  will  take  the  picture  and  include 
the  Turks  in  it." 

While  returning  through  the  extensive  grounds  of  the 
Haram,  one  of  the  tourists  lighted  a  pipe.  Immedi- 
ately a  Moslem  guard  approached  and  with  unintelli- 
gible words,  made  it  known  by  his  frowning  face  and 
threatening  gestures,  that  the  pipe  must  be  extinguished. 


CHAPTER  XII. 
THE  CHURCH  OF  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE. 

THE  floor  of  the  vast  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepul- 
chre is  below  the  level  of  Christian  Street.  We 
descended  to  the  church  through  a  narrow  alley 
about  a  hundred  feet  in  length,  which  by  slopes  and  steps 
led  downward.  On  each  side  of  this  alley  peddlers  had 
stands  for  the  sale  of  beads,  rosaries,  crucifixes,  candles, 
and  souvenirs,  which  they  earnestly  besought  the  visitors 
to  buy.  The  church  is  so  surrounded  by  other  buildings 
that  it  could  not  be  seen  until  we  arrived  at  the  foot 
of  the  alley,  where  a  few  steps  to  the  left  led  down  to  a 
wide  stone  paved  court.  Even  then  only  the  rough 
stone  facade  and  the  top  of  the  dome  were  visible. 
The  door  was  guarded  by  Turkish  soldiers,  but  they 
did  not  object  to  our  entrance. 

Within  the  Church,  in  the  centre  of  the  vestibule,  we 
paused  beside  a  marble  slab  six  feet  in  length,  elevated 
slightly  above  the  stone  floor.  A  canopy  overspread 
the  marble  and  at  the  sides  of  the  canopy  stood  six 
immense  ornamented  silver  candlesticks  rising  higher 
than  our  heads.     In  these  were  tall  candles. 

"This  is  the  Stone  of  Unction, "  said  the  guide.  "On 
this  marble  the  body  of  Jesus  lay  while  it  was  anointed 
for  burial.  Two  of  these  candlesticks  belong  to  the 
Greek  Church,  two  to  the  Armenian  Church,  and  two 
to  the  Latin  Church.     In  this  holy  edifice  each  religious 

("7) 


2  28  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

sect  claims  the  privilege  of  taking  part  in  the  worship 
and  in  the  care  of  the  sacred  places." 

Not  far  from  the  vestibule  the  guide  halted,  and 
pointing  to  a  circle  on  the  stone  floor,  said:  "This 
circle  marks  the  place  where  the  Mother  of  Jesus  stood 
at  the  time  of  the  anointing." 

The  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  we  ascertained,  is 
composed  of  many  parts.  A  rotunda,  sixty -six  feet 
in  diameter,  occupies  the  center.  Above  this  rises  the 
dome,  supported  by  eighteen  large  piers.  On  one  side 
of  this  round  room,  an  opening  leads  into  a  Greek 
church;  on  the  other  side,  entrances  between  the  piers 
lead  into  small  chapels.  Grouped  around  outside  of 
these,  but  connected  with  the  central  rotunda,  church, 
and  small  chapels,  are  other  chapels,  rooms,  and  sacred 
places,  the  whole  covering  a  space  of  over  two  acres. 
In  the  centre  of  the  rotunda,  directly  underneath  the 
dome,  stands  a  small  marble  building  twenty -six  feet 
long  by  eighteen  feet  broad,  richly  decorated  with 
carvings,  inscriptions,  and  figures  of  angels.  At  one 
end  of  this  building  there  is  a  small  door  guarded  by 
huge  bronze  candlesticks  ten  feet  in  height  and  over- 
hung with  gold  and  silver  lamps  of  curious  oriental 
design.  Three  golden  crosses  surmount  the  front  of 
this  miniature  building:  one  of  Greek  form  furnished 
by  the  Greek  Church;  one  of  Roman  form,  by  the 
Latins;  and  one  of  the  Syrian  shape,  by  the  Armenians. 
"This  small  building,"  said  the  guide,  "encloses  the 
place  of  the  Sepulchre.  The  interior  is  divided  into 
two  parts.  The  first  3^ou  will  enter  is  the  Chapel  of  the 
Angel.      The  Tomb  of  the  Savior  is  in  the  second  part. " 


(229) 


230 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT, 


rolling   it 


Passing  between  the  lines  of  huge  candlesticks  and 
underneath  the  clusters  of  overhanging  lamps,  we 
entered  the  small  doorway  and  were  in  the  Chapel  of  the 
Angel.  In  the  centre  of  this  small  room  stands  the 
stone  upon  which,  the  guide  said,  the  angel  sat  after 
awav    from   the     entrance    to    the     Savior's 

tomb.  Stooping 
low  we  passed 
singly  through  the 
narrow  opening  to 
the  tomb.  This  is 
a  small  chamber 
about  six  feet 
square ,  the  floor 
and  walls  of  which 
are  covered  with 
white  marble.  At 
the  right  hand 
side  of  the  tomb 
a  marble  slab 
about  two  feet 
wide  extends  the 
length  of  the  cham- 
ber. This  marble 
is  much  worn  by 
the  millions  of  kisses  that  have  been  tearfully  and 
reverently  pressed  upon  it  by  the  pilgrims  of  many 
centuries.  Two  score  of  golden  lamps,  continually 
burning  overhead,  shed  a  soft  but  brilliant  light  upon 
the  tomb.  Our  visit  to  the  interior  of  the  tomb  was 
short ;  for  not  more  than  five  persons  may  stand  in  it 


A    CRUST   IN    HER    HAND,    A   GRIN    ON    HER 
FACE. 


WE    WALKED    THROUGH    THE    NARROW    VIA    DOLOROSA. 


(231) 


23  2  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

at  one  time,  and  other  pilgrims  from  other  lands  were 
waiting  their  turn  to  enter. 

For  a  small  fee  the  local  guides  provided  us  with 
tapers,  for  some  of  the  chapels  and  grottoes  within 
the  vast  cluster  of  the  buildings  of  the  church-were  dark, 
and  in  the  gloomy  recesses  the  holy  places  could  not 
be  seen  without  a  light.  In  the  dark  grotto  of  the 
Syrian  chapel  our  tapers  shed  a  dim  light  on  two  tombs, 
which  the  guide  said  were  those  of  Nicodemus  and  Joseph 
of  Arimathea. 

"This  is  the  Chapel  of  the  Apparition,"  explained 
the  guide,  after  leading  us  to  another  part  of  the  church. 
"Here  the  Lord  appeared  to  Mary,  His  mother,  after  the 
Resurrection.  In  a  niche  beside  the  high  altar  is  a  hole 
in  the  wall.  If  you  hold  your  taper  up  to  it  you  may 
see  within  the  wall  a  part  of  the  column  to  which  the 
Savior  was  bound  during  the  Flagellation.  You  may 
touch  the  sacred  column  with  this  round  stick,  provided 
for  the  purpose,  if  you  wish  to  do  so.  The  stick,  being 
worn  smooth  by  the  numberless  kisses  that  have  been 
pressed  upon  it  by  the  pilgrims  after  touching  the  holy 
column,  can  do  it  no  harm. " 

In  a  vestibule  outside  the  chapel  a  star  in  the  marble 
floor  marks  the  place  where  Christ  appeared  to  Mary 
Magdalene  after  the  Resurrection,  and  a  second  star 
a  few  feet  beyond  marks  the  spot  where  Mary  stood 
when  she  recognized  the  risen  Lord. 

We  passed  from  the  rotunda  into  the  Church  of  the 
Crusaders  or  Greek  Church,  through  a  wide  opening 
directly  opposite  the  door  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  In 
this  large  chapel  the  walls  and  ceilings,  the  seats  of  the 


THE    VERY    STONES    HIS    SACRED    FEET    HAVE    PRESSED. 


(233) 


234  ^   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

choir,  the  high  altar,  and  the  seat  of  the  Patriarch  in 
the  rear  of  the  altar,  are  composed  of  precious  woods 
beautifully  carved  and  ornamented  with  gold  and  silver 
and  jewels.  Hundreds  of  superb  golden  and  silver 
lamps,  varying  in  form  and  design,  hang  suspended 
from  the  ceiling  at  various  heights.  In  the  centre  of 
the  chapel,  standing  in  the  middle  of  a  fancifully  designed 
circle  on  the  checkered  marble  floor,  is  an  urn  contain- 
ing a  marble  ball. 

"This  ball  marks  the  centre  of  the  world,"  explained 
the  guide,  as  we  halted  beside  the  urn.  "About  eight 
centuries  ago  certain  wise  and  holy  men  ascertained, 
by  calculation  or  by  inspiration,  that  this  spot  is  the 
exact  centre  of  the  world.  It  was  marked  in  this 
manner  so  that  the  pilgrims  coming  here  from  all  parts 
of  the  earth  might  see  it  and  carry  the  knowledge  of  the 
wonderful  discovery  back  with  them  to  their  various 
countries. " 

Beyond  the  Greek  Chapel  we  descended,  by  aid  of 
our  burning  tapers,  a  flight  of  thirty  stone  steps  to  the 
ancient,  dimly -lit  Chapel  of  St.  Helena. 

"When  the  Empress  Helena  was  inspired  to  search 
for  the  true  cross,"  said  the  guide,  "she  employed 
workmen  to  excavate  here.  There  is  the  seat  on  which 
she  sat  while  superintending  the  search,  and  there  below 
us  is  the  excavation  in  which  she  found  the  three  crosses, 
the  crown  of  thorns,  the  nails,  and  the  inscription. " 

We  peered  into  the  darkness  below  but  could  see  only 
a  gloomy  hole  about  eight  feet  deep  and  twenty  feet 
across,  a  short  flight  of  steps  cut  in  the  rock,  and  an 
altar  at  one  side. 


CHURCH  OF  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE.     235 


Reascending  to  the  main  floor,  we  halted  at  the 
Chapel  of  the  Mocking.  There  the  guide  showed  us  the 
stone  upon  which  the  Jews  made  Jesus  sit  while  they 
crowned  Him  with  thorns.  The  guide  then  led  the  way 
up  a  flight  of  steps  to  the  Chapel  of  Golgotha,  which  is 
within  the  great  structure  of  the  church  but  upon  the 


THE  OLD    STREET   OF   SORROW   LIES    BURIED   TWENTY   FEET 

BELOW. 

summit  of  a  rock  fifteen  feet  higher  than  the  main  floor. 
At  one  side  of  this  chapel,  where  the  rock  itself  projects 
slightly  above  the  floor,  a  figure  of  the  Christ  in  dying 
agony  is  suspended  upon  the  cross,  and  at  the  foot  of  the 
cross  stand  the  figures  of  Mary,   His  mother,  and  St. 


236  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

John,  both  dejected  and  sorrowful.  These  figures 
appear  to  be  made  of  gold  and  silver.  The  crowns 
on  their  heads  are  covered  with  diamonds,  rubies, 
emeralds,  and  other  precious  stones.  A  hole  in  the 
rock  surrounded  by  a  gold  plate  marks  the  place  where 
the  original  cross  stood.  On  the  right  and  left  are  the 
holes  where  stood  the  crosses  of  the  thieves.  A  movable 
gold  plate  covers  the  crevice  in  the  rock  caused  by  the 
earthquake.  In  this  chapel  the  pictures  on  the  walls 
are  encircled  with  diamonds  and  other  precious  stones. 
Adjoining  this  room  is  the  Chapel  of  the  Crucifixion, 
where,  as  the  guide  informed  us,  Christ  was  nailed  to  the 
cross,  and  close  by  is  the  place  where  the  Virgin  Mary 
stood  during  the  Crucifixion. 

Descending  a  flight  of  steps  to  the  main  floor,  we 
entered  a  small  cavern-like  chamber. 

"This,"  said  the  guide,  "is  the  Tomb  of  Adam,  and 
the  little  chapel  beyond  is  the  Tomb  of  Melchizedek. " 

When  one  of  the  ladies,  doubting  the  truth  of  these 
traditions,  excitedty  began  to  remonstrate  with  the 
guide,  a  clergyman  in  the  part}^  said  to  her:  "It  is 
not  worth  while  to  enter  into  a  dispute  with  the  guide. 
You  cannot  convince  him  that  his  assertions  are  incor- 
rect. Let  us  leave  the  topic  for  discussion  in  the  even- 
ing when  we  cannot  go  out  sight-seeing." 

We  departed  from  the  Church  of  the  Sepulchre  with 
the  intention  of  returning  without  a  guide  to  inspect 
portions  of  the  building  more  leisurely.  Preceded  by 
the  guide,  we  walked  through  the  narrow  Via  Dolorosa, 
pausing  a  moment  at  each  of  the  fourteen  stations,  which 
mark  the  location  of  the  historical  and  traditional  events 


CHURCH  OF  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE.     237 

that  occurred  in  the  street  of  sorrow.  After  the  guide 
had  explained  the  route,  one  of  the  tourists  devoutly 
said:  "Little  did  I  think  a  year  ago  that  I  should  walk 
along  the  very  path  that  has  been  stained  by  the  blood 
drops  of  the  Savior  on  His  way  to  the  Cross,  and  tread 


AT    THE    ENTRANCE    TO    SOLO-MOX  S    (JUARKIKS. 


perhaps  on  the  very  stones  that  His  sacred  feet  have 
pressed." 

A  few  minutes  later  we  were  admitted  to  a  convent 
on  the  Via  Dolorosa.  One  of  the  gray -gowned  nuns, 
after  exhibiting  and  offering  for  sale  laces  and  embroi- 
deries made  by  the  sisters,  led  us  to  an  excavation  in 


238  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

the  rear  of  the  convent.  There  a  courteous  Abbess  met 
us,  and  said:  "The  excavation  made  here  uncovered  a 
part  of  the  original  Via  Dolorosa.  The  old  way  lies 
buried  twenty  feet  below  the  level  of  the  modern  street 
known  by  that  name,  and  at  this  place  is  one  hundred 
feet  to  the  right  of  the  one  on  which  you  were  walking. " 
"You  must  bear  in  mind  the  history  of  Jerusalem," 
continued  the  Abbess  in  reply  to  our  questions.  "Forty 
years  after  the  Crucifixion  Titus  captured  the  city, 
demolished  the  buildings,  and  slaughtered  the  inhabi- 
tants. Jerusalem  became  'heaps'  and  a  'desolation'  as 
predicted  by  the  holy  prophets.  For  a  century  there- 
after a  village  of  huts  built  upon  the  ruins  occupied  the 
site  of  the  city;  then  the  idolatrous  Emperor  Hadrian 
rebuilt  the  city,  laying  out  the  streets  to  suit  his  pagan 
ideas,  and  for  two  centuries  it  was  a  pagan  city  whose 
people  were  devoted  to  the  worship  of  strange  gods  and 
regarded  not  the  sacred  places.  Three  hundred  years 
after  the  Ascension  of  our  Savior,  the  blessed  St. 
Helena,  mother  of  the  Emperor  Constantine,  made  a 
pilgrimage  from  Constantinople  to  Jerusalem.  Inspired 
with  holy  zeal,  she  gave  orders  for  the  erection  of 
churches  on  the  sites  of  the  Nativity  at  Bethlehem  and 
the  Ascension  at  Olivet.  She  prayerfully  sought  for  the 
sacred  tomb  in  which  the  Lord  had  been  laid,  and  her 
efforts  were  rewarded  by  the  finding  of  the  true  cross. 
She  cleared  away  the  accumulated  rubbish  and  built 
the  chapel  on  the  holy  ground,  and  that  chapel  has 
grown  into  the  great  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 
Afterwards  the  locations  of  the  events  on  the  way  to 
the  cross  were  marked  on  the  modern  street   to  corre- 


(239) 


240  .4   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT, 

spond  as  nearly  as  possible  to  the  places  on  the  ancient 
street  which  lay  buried  many  feet  below.  The  finding 
of  a  part  of  the  true  Via  Dolorosa  in  the  excavation 
within  our  enclosure  has  been  a  blessing  to  the  convent. " 

The  Abbess  deserved  and  received  more  than  spoken 
thanks  for  her  courtesy.  We  realized  then  the  truth 
of   her   last   words. 

During  our  walk  we  visited  an  old  Armenian  church, 
which  was  gaudily  decorated  with  red  brocade  hangings 
and  very  antiquated  paintings  quaintly  representing 
scenes  from  Bible  history.  In  the  court-yard  of  the 
church  a  young  Armenian  kindly  offered  us  a  pitcher 
of  water,  which  he  said  had  been  brought  from  a  spring 
outside  the  city  for  the  use  of  the  monks  in  the  adjoining 
convent.  We  received  it  most  gratefully,  for  the  drink- 
ing water  of  Jerusalem  is  noted  for  impurity,  and,  as 
we  had  been  cautioned  against  it,  we  had  abstained 
from  drinking  water  for  three  days. 

"Will  it  be  difficult  for  the  tourists  to  find  their  way 
through  the  narrow  crooked  streets  of  the  city  without 
a  guide?"  inquired  one  of  the  ladies  of  the  dragoman  at 
the  noon  hour. 

"Oh  no!"  he  replied.  "Please  open  your  map.  I 
notice  you  have  one.  You  see  that  the  city  is  divided 
into  four  marked  sections  by  the  two  principal  streets 
which  cross  each  other  at  right  angles:  David  street 
extending  from  the  Jaffa  Gate  at  the  west,  through  the 
center  of  the  city,  to  the  Temple  Area  at  the, east;  and 
Damascus  street  extending  from  the  Damascus  Gate 
on  the  north,  through  the  center  of  the  city,  to  the 
Zion  Gate  on  the  south.     The  bazaars  and  little  stores 


CHURCH  OF  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE.     241 

that  tourists  visit  are  on  these  two  streets,  on  Christian 
street  near  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Jaffa  Gate.  The  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  is  in  the  north-west  section  of  the  city,  known 
as  the  Christian  Quarter;  the  Via  Dolorosa  passes 
through  the  north-east  section,  called  the  Moslem 
Quarter ;  the  Temple  Area  is  on  the  east  side ;  the  Wail- 
ing Place  of  the  Jews  is  near  the  south-west  corner  of  the 
Temple  Area,  in  the  south-east  or  Jewish  Quarter;  and 
the  Citadel  is  in  the  south-west  or  Armenian  Quarter. 
Jerusalem  is  not  a  large  city.  David  Street  is  only  half 
a  mile  in  length,  and  Damascus  Street  from  the  gate 
on  the  north  to  the  gate  on  the  south  is  but  three-fourths 
of  a  mile  long. " 

"This  afternoon,"  said  the  guide  at  the  noon  hour 
on  Friday,  "those  of  you  who  desire  to  do  so  may  go 
with  me  to  the  Wailing  Place  of  the  Jews.  The  Turkish 
authorities  do  not  permit  Jews  to  enter  the  Temple 
Area  so  the  Jews,  on  Friday  afternoons,  congregate  in 
a  narrow  court,  outside  and  adjoining  the  western  wall 
which  encloses  the  Temple  Area,  to  mourn  over  the 
downfall  of  their  beloved  Zion  and  pray  for  the  return 
of  Jewish  dominion  over  the  land  of  their  fathers,  and 
for  the  renewal  of  the  ancient  glory  of  the  City  of 
David." 

When  we  arrived  at  the  Wailing  Place,  we  found  about 
a  hundred  Jewish  men,  women,  and  children  assembled 
in  the  court,  with  faces  turned  to  the  wall,  the  men  at 
one  end  of  the  court,  the  women  at  the  other.  Some 
of  the  mourners  pressed  their  faces  against  the  wall, 
kissing  it   and  muttering  prayers;  some,   as  the  guide 

16 


242 


A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


explained  to  us,  were  reading  the  Talmud;  some  recit- 
ing verses  from  the  Lamentations  of  Jeremiah;  and 
some  chanting  the  penitential  Psalms  of  David. 
Others  we  saw  weeping,  the  tears  running  down  their 


PITIED    THOSE    MISERABLE    LEPERS    AT    THE    GATE. 

faces,  while  one  or  two  looked    around    with  curious 
gaze  at  the  strangers. 

Thence  we  returned  through  portions  of  the  Moham- 
medan and  Jewish  quarters  of  the  city.  The  narrow 
streets  through  which  we  passed, — if  passage-ways  ten 
feet  wide  may  be  called  streets, — are  lined  with  little 
stores.     The    stocks    of    provisions,    groceries,    bread, 


CHURCH  OF  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE.    243 

vegetables,  and  general  merchandise  for  native  con- 
sumption are  displayed  in  the  open  fronts  of  the 
shallow  store-rooms  and  the  proprietors  sit  or  stand 
outside  waiting  for  customers,  like  huge  spiders  waiting 
for  their  prey,  or  with  loud  voices  and  many  gesticula- 
tions bargain  with  the  buyers. 

The  streets  of  the  Mohammedan  Quarter  are  filthy ; 
those  of  the  Jewish  Quarter  are  worse. 

"Are  these  alleys  ever  swept  or  cleaned?"  inquired 
one  of  the  disgusted  visitors. 

"Oh,  yes!"  answered  the  guide,  "the  city,  being 
built  on  the  hills,  has  a  natural  drainage.  Whenever 
there  is  a  heavy  rain  the  flowing  water  washes  the 
streets. " 

"Well,"  said  the  visitor,  "the  city  of  Constantinople 
has  the  reputation  of  being  the  filthiest  city  in  Europe, 
but  it  has  a  brigade  of  canine  street  cleaners  to  assist 
the  rainfalls  in  cleaning  the  thoroughfares.  If  the  city 
of  Jerusalem  were  in  Europe,  it  could  easily  claim  the 
leading  place  in  respect  to  filth;  for  dogs  are  few  here 
and  heavy  rains  do  not  appear  to  be  frequent.  " 

The  tramp  through  these  quarters  was  not  agreeable 
to  any  of  the  senses.  The  ears  were  annoyed  with  the 
jargon  of  many  dialects ;  the  harsh  voices  of  the  natives, 
the  loud  exclamations  of  the  dealers,  and  the  whining 
cries  of  the  beggars  for  backsheesh.  The  eyes  were 
offended  by  the  sight  of  the  crowds  of  dirty  beggars, 
who  stretched  out  hands  in  appeal  and  tried  to  clutch 
the  garments  of  the  tourists  with  their  dirty  fingers, 
until  disgust  drove  away  all  feelings  of  pity.  The  odors 
from  the  foul  thoroughfares,  from  the  messes  of  soft 


244  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

cheese  and  mixtures  of  eatables  offered  for  sale,  from 
the  discarded  and  decaying  cauliflower  leaves  under 
neath  the  stalls,  from  the  pipes  of  Turkish  tobacco, 
and  from  the  donkeys  and  unbathed  human  beings 
with  whom  the  tourists  came  in  close  contact,  were  in- 
haled with  loathing.  The  uneven,  stone-cobbled  paving 
of  the  narrow  streets  without  sidewalks,  the  steps  up 
and  down  the  grades,  and  the  slippery  condition  of  the 
muddy  surface  when  wet  caused  weary  feet. 

"I  will  not  give  away  another  piaster,"  exclaimed 
a  lady  whose  purse  had  been  drawn  upon  frequently 
during  our  tramp.  "I  never  met  such  disagreeable 
beggars.  There  were  many  beggars  in  other  cities,  but 
they  did  not  whine  and  display  their  dirty  rags  so  dis- 
gustingty  as  these  do.  I  pitied  those  miserable  lepers 
at  the  gate,  but  when  I  threw  them  some  money  they 
crowded  around  and  tried  to  touch  me  with  their  diseased 
hands,  instead  of  keeping  at  a  distance  and  crying, 
'Unclean!  Unclean!'" 

The  beggars  were  the  most  objectionable  feature  of 
the  city ;  they  persisted  in  following  visitors  and  it  was 
almost  impossible  to  drive  them  away.  When  rid  of 
one  lot,  others  soon  took  their  place.  Repulsive  cripples 
insisted  on  calling  attention  to  their  deformities ;  sore- 
eyed  children  clamored  for  assistance;  and  little  tots 
with  dirty,  fly-covered  faces,  shrilly  prattled  "Back- 
sheesh." The  streets  were  full  of  these  wretched  crea- 
tures ;  they  congregated  near  the  sacred  places  and  there 
the  clamor  was  so  annoying  that  the  tourists  had  little 
opportunity  for  contemplation  until  they  were  inside 
the  buildings  and  away  from  the  beggars'  entreaties. 


(-^45) 


246 


.4   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT 


We  made  several  visits  to  the  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre  in  order  to  observe  the  people ;  to  view  quietly 
and  leisurely  the  gorgeous  decorations,  especially  those 
in  the  Greek  Chapel  where  each  visit  disclosed  new 
beauties;  and  to  see  the  jewels,  precious  gems,  and 
pictures  encircled  in  diamonds,  in  the  Chapel  of  Golgotha. 


f 

1..';  / 

PASSED    OUT    THROUGH    THE    DAMASCUS    GATE. 

During  one  of  these  visits  we  sat  for  awhile  on  a  bench 
by  the  wall  of  the  church  not  far  from  the  entrance  to  the 
Sepulchre.  It  was  interesting  to  note  the  diversity 
of  costumes  and  to  watch  the  difference  in  the  behavior 
of  the  tourists  and  pilgrims  of  the  various  nationalities. 


(247) 


248  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"Notice  that  Russian  group,"  said  a  companion  as  a 
party  of  Russian  pilgrims  entered  the  church. 

These  people  from  the  North,  long-haired,  heavy- 
bearded,  long-booted,  heavy-coated  men,  and  short- 
frocked,  heavy-shod  women  had  come  there,  we  could 
plainly  see,  on  a  holy  pilgrimage  to  the  tomb  of  their 
Savior,  believing  and  trusting  in  the  reality  of  every- 
thing they  saw.  At  the  Stone  of  Unction  they  pros- 
trated themselves  and  kissed  the  stone  slab,  and  as  they 
rose  we  could  see  the  shaggy -bearded  men  wiping  away 
the  tears  with  their  rough  hands.  Then,  with  uncovered 
heads,  they  slowly  approached  the  entrance  to  the 
Sepulchre,  bowed  down,  crossed  themselves,  knelt 
inside,  and  after  kissing  the  marble  tomb,  backed  out, 
bowing  and  crossing  themselves  until  well  away  from 
the  tomb. 

"The  people  of  other  nationalities  outwardly  show 
more  reverence  for  the  sacred  places  than  do  those  of 
our  own  country,"  commented  my  companion.  "The 
guards  have  just  censured  that  group  of  Americans  on 
the  other  side  of  the  room.  I  could  not  hear  what  was 
said,  but  the  actions  of  the  guards  spoke  louder  than 
words,  and  I  noticed  that  the  loud  talking  ceased  at 
once. " 

The  party  of  Americans  came  laughing  and  chatting 
toward  the  Sepulchre  and  entered  the  tomb  without  any 
appearance  of  reverence  in  their  manner, — a  striking 
contrast  to  the  devout  Russian  pilgrims.  Other  Ameri- 
cans, however,  following,  entered  the  tomb  silently, 
and  came  out  with  a  look  of  awe  upon  their  faces. 
One  of  these  told  us  that  he  had  placed  some  postal 


CHURCH  OF  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE.     249 

cards  and  letters  on  the  tomb  to  be  blessed  by  contact 
with  it  before  mailing  them  to  his  friends.  Another 
had  taken  some  bunches  of  flowers  and  laid  them  on  the 
tomb  for  the  same  purpose  before  pressing  them  for 
souvenirs.  A  party  of  Germans  stood  near  us  for 
awhile,  apparently  arguing  in  low  tones  over  some  state- 
ment of  the  guide,  and  then  quietly  and  with  uncovered 
heads  advanced  and  entered  the  Sepulchre.  Some 
Italians  knelt  for  a  long  time  before  the  door,  and 
Africans,  Greeks,  and  natives  of  countries  unknown 
to  us,  bowed  or  crossed  their  foreheads  or  breasts  before 
the  entrance.  No  other  nationality,  however,  showed 
such  zeal  and  intensity  of  feeling  as  did  the  Russian 
peasants. 

On  Saturday  afternoon  we  visited  the  Church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre  to  be  present  at  the  special  service  held 
on  that  day.  We  found  that  the  number  of  guards  at 
the  door  had  been  doubled,  and  that  companies  of 
armed  Turkish  soldiers  had  been  stationed  within  to 
preserve  order  in  the  assembled  throng  of  sight -seers  and 
worshipers  and  to  keep  a  passage-way  open  through 
which  the  expected  processions  might  pass.  Pushing 
our  way  through  the  crowd  we  obtained  a  good  position 
behind  some  Syrian  women  and  children  who,  attired 
in  gala  costumes,  held  unlighted  candles  in  their  hands. 
At  the  Place  of  Sepulchre  the  oriental  lamps  above  the 
door  and  the  candles  in  the  huge  candlesticks  had  been 
lighted  for  the  special  service,  brilliantly  illuminating 
the  marble  front  of  that  small  building  and  bringing 
into  clear  relief  every  detail  of  the  carved  ornamentation. 
In  the  Greek  Chapel  the  golden  lamps  and  the  candles 


2  50  .4   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

at  the  altar  were  burning,  and  the  chapel  was  ablaze 
with  reflected  glory. 

"They  are  coming,"  whispered  some  one  as  the 
tramping  of  feet  on  the  stone  floor  was  heard. 

A  procession  of  Greek  priests  in  gorgeous  garments, 
swinging  censers  of  smoking  incense  and  bearing  aloft 
a  golden  cross,  marched  to  the  Sepulchre,  made  obeisance 
there,  then  proceeded  slowly  around  the  building  several 
times  and  entered  the  Greek  Chapel  where  a  short 
service  was  held.  After  the  Greeks  had  left  the  building, 
a  procession  of  Armenian  priests  appeared  clad  in  black 
silk  robes  and  peculiar  looking  black  silk  hoods  draped 
over  their  heads.  They  were  led  by  a  venerable  Patri- 
arch arrayed  in  a  magnificent  embroidered  robe.  The 
Patriarch  knelt  and  kissed  the  Stone  of  Unction,  then 
the  procession  marched  singing  to  the  Sepulchre,  which 
they  entered,  two  priests  at  a  time.  After  this  part 
of  the  ceremony  was  concluded  the  priests  marched 
singing  three  times  around  the  room,  while  a  bell  in 
the  gallery  merrily  clanged  an  accompaniment.  When 
the  Armenians  had  withdrawn,  a  procession  of  Roman 
Catholics  entered  singing.  The  chanting  was  accom- 
panied softly  by  an  organ  in  an  adjoining  chapel.  The 
censer  bearers  waved  their  smoking  bowls  until  the 
whole  place  was  fragrant  with  the  odor  of  the  incense. 
Tonsured  monks  with  sandaled  feet,  in  gowns  of  brown, 
girt  with  hempen  cord;  censer  bearers,  cross  bearers, 
brazier  bearers,  and  choir  boys  in  white  embroidered 
surplices  and  skirts  of  scarlet ;  priests  in  black ;  bishops 
in  purple;  and  higher  dignitaries  in  capes  of  fur  and 
long-trained  robes, — all  these  marched  round  and  round 


CHURCH  OF  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE.     251 

bearing  lighted  candles  and  chanting  the  ritual  to  the 
strains  of  the  organ,  and  then  proceeded  toward-  the 
Latin  Chapel.     Our  Syrian  neighbor  and  her  children 


DAVID    STREET    IS    ONLY    HALF    A    MILE    IX    LENGTH. 

lighted  their  candles  and  joined  other  worshipers  with 
candles  in  the  rear  of  this  procession,  and  we  followed 
to  the  Chapel  where  all  knelt  for  service. 


252  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

Palestine  appeared  to  us  to  be  a  land  where  history 
and  tradition  were  so  curiously  mixed  that  it  was  difficult 
to  know  where  history  ended  and  tradition  began.  Dur- 
ing our  tramps  around  the  city  of  Jerusalem  and  its 
vicinity  the  guides  pointed  out  the  spring  where  the 
Virgin  Mary  washed  the  clothes  of  the  infant  Jesus  in  the 
same  way  that  we  saw  other  women  in  the  East  washing 
clothes  on  the  banks  of  public  streams ;  the  hill  of  evil 
counsel  where  the  avaricious  disciple  had  been  tempted 
by  gold  to  betray  his  Master,  and  the  field  where  the 
horror-stricken  traitor  ended  his  life;  the  place  just 
without  the  Gate  of  St.  Stephen  where  the  sainted 
Stephen  knelt  and  prayed  for  his  persecutors  until  the 
stones  cast  by  the  infuriated  Jews  crushed  out  his  life; 
the  spot  where  the  Apostle  James  was  beheaded, 
commemorated  by  the  church  of  St.  James  which  now 
stands  on  that  location ;  the  large  room  outside  the  Zion 
Gate  in  which  the  Lord  washed  the  disciples'  feet  and 
partook  of  the  Last  Supper;  the  tomb  of  the  wayward, 
long-haired  Absalom,  and  the  mausoleum  that  covers 
the  resting-place  of  his  father,  King  David;  the  foot- 
print of  Jesus  in  the  rock  and  the  hole  made  by  His 
staff  on  the  Mount  of  Olives;  the  imprints  of  the 
Savior's  feet  in  the  rocky  floor  made  during  the  time 
of  the  scourging ;  the  site  of  the  house  in  which  the 
Virgin  lived  with  the  disciple  John  after  the  Crucifixion. 

Palestine  was  noted  in  olden  times  as  a  land  flowing 
with  milk  and  honey.  At  the  Casa  Nova  we  drank 
of  the  milk,  the  milk  of  the  black-haired  goats  that  fed 
along  the  hillsides,  and  ate  of  the  honey,  which  was  of 
delicious   flavor.     The   Svrian  waiters   who   served  our 


CHURCH  OF  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE. 


'53 


meals  and  also  cared  for  our  bedrooms  were  picturesque- 
ly dressed  in  long  gowns  of  blue  striped  material  falling 
to  their  ankles,  and  encircled  with  bright  sashes,  and 
these  men  at  all  times,  whether  making  beds  or  serving 
tables,  wore  on  their  heads  the  red  fez  of  Turkish  sub- 
jects. The  managers  of  the  Hospice,  the  Franciscan 
monks,  wore  the  garb  in  which  the  monks  of  that  order 
are  always  seen,  brown  gown,  rope  girdle,  rosary  with 
pendant  cross,  and  sandals. 

On  Sunday  a  cold  rain  fell  during  the  day,  making  it 
unpleasant  for  sight -seeing  and  confining  the  travelers 
to  the  house  during  most  of  the  day. 

"How  disappointing  this  is  to  be  kept  in  the  house  by 
the  rain,"  exclaimed  a  discontented  tourist  while 
watching  the  rain  drops  glide  down  the  window-pane. 

"Have  you  thought,"  said  another  who  was  busily 
engaged  with  guide-book  and  pencil,  "that  until  to-day 
not  one  unpleasant  day  has  interfered  with  our  trip  ? 
The  temperature  has  been  neither  uncomfortably  warm 
nor  disagreeably  cold,  but  just  delightful  for  the  exertion 
of  sight-seeing. " 

The  tourists  having  made  a  request  for  some  heat  in 
the  house,  one  of  the  gowned  Arab  servants  carried  a 
brazier  into  the  reception  room,  placed  a  handful  of 
charcoal  in  it  and  lighted  a  fire.  As  we  gathered  around 
the  little  fire  trying  to  warm  our  hands,  one  could 
realize  the  scene  many  centuries  ago,  in  the  Palace  of 
Caiaphas,  when  the  soldiers  coming  in  at  midnight  from 
the  cold  hills,  kindled  a  fire  in  the  midst  of  the  hall,  and 
Peter,  shivering  from  cold  and  fear,  joined  the  group 
c^round  the  brazier  to  warm  himself. 


254  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"I  have  been  trying  for  the  past  three  days,"  re- 
remarked  an  elderh^  clergyman,  "to  realize  that  these 
bare  hills  were  once  'a  land  flowing  with  milk  and  honey, ' 
producing  'grapes,  pomegranates,  and  figs '  in  abundance. 
To-day  I  have  been  thinking  of  the  changes  that  the 
tempests  of  a  few  short  years  have  made  in  the  hills  of  my 
own  native  state.  New  Hampshire,  since  the  rapacious 
lumber-men  have  been  denuding  our  mountains  of  the 
forests.  There,  the  unprotected  soil  is  being  washed 
away  by  the  heavy  rains,  gulleys  have  been  formed,  the 
brooks  have  diminished  or  dried  up,  and  the  part  of  our 
once  beautiful  White  Mountains  that  has  been  cut  over 
is  desolate  indeed.  Now,  since  thinking  of  the  changes 
that  have  occurred  in  a  decade  at  home,  I  can  more 
fully  realize  the  changes  that  centuries  have  made  here, 

"  Looking  backward,"  said  he,  "  I  can  see  more 
clearly  in  my  mind  the  picture  that  David  saw  with 
the  eye  of  an  artist,  and  described  with  the  heart  of  a 
poet,  when  these  bare,  gray,  rocky,  treeless  hills  were 
crowned  with  forests  that  protected  the  soil  from  the 
beating  storms;  when  these  slopes,  now  furrowed  with 
gulleys  and  spread  with  stones,  were  covered  with 
orchards  and  clad  with  verdure,  where  the  flocks  might 
'lie  down  midst  pastures  of  tender  grass;'  and  when 
these  dried  up  waterwa^^s  were  purling  brooks,  where  the 
flocks  were  'led  beside  the  waters  of  quietness. '  I 
believe  that  David's  description  of  this  country  was  a 
true  picture  of  the  land  as  it  appeared  then.  'Thou 
waterest  the  ridges  thereof  abundantly;  thou  settlest 
the  furrows  thereof;  thou  makest  it  soft  with  showers; 
thou  blessest  the  springing  thereof.     The  pastures  are 


(255) 


256  .4   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

clothed  with  flocks;  the  valleys  also  are  covered  over 
with  corn;  they  shout  for  joy,  they  also  sing.' " 

"In  those  days  the  vicinity  of  Jerusalem  was  beautiful 
with  palm  trees,"  continued  the  clergyman,  "and  the 
City  of  Palms  was  but  fifteen  miles  away.  Now  the 
City  of  Palms  is  a  squalid,  unhealthful  village,  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  Jerusalem  it  is  difficult  to  obtain  a  leaf  of  the 
palm. " 

The  low  spirits  caused  by  the  drizzling  rain  during 
our  last  evening  in  the  Sacred  City  were  increased  by 
telegraphic  news  received  from  Jaffa.  The  telegram 
stated  that  the  weather  was  stormy  and  the  waves  run- 
ning high,  and  that  if  the  sea  did  not  subside  we  might 
not  be  able  to  embark.  This  information  caused  con- 
siderable anxiety  among  the  timid  members  of  the  part}^ 
and  many  surmises  were  made  as  to  the  developments 
of  the  following  day.  As  usual,  all  the  arrangements 
for  our  departure  had  been  carefully  made  in  advance 
by  our  managers.  We  were  notified  that  the  Syrian 
bell  boys  would  waken  us  at  five  o'clock,  and  our  bag- 
gage must  be  ready  at  five-thirt}" ;  breakfast  would  be 
served  at  six  o'clock;  the  carriages  would  be  at  the 
Jaffa  Gate  at  six-thirty ;  and  the  train  would  leave  the 
Jerusalem  station  at  seven. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
CAIRO  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS. 

ON  Monda}^  morning,  after  enjoying  our  usual 
breakfast  at  the  Casa  Nova  of  boiled  eggs, 
rolls  and  pure  honey,  good  coffee,  and  delicious 
oranges,  we  bade  farewell  to  our  tonsured  hosts  and  the 
staff  of  gowned  attendants.  The  carriages  were  waiting 
near  the  Jaffa  Gate  to  convey  us  to  the  station.  The 
train  moved  off  promptly  at  the  appointed  hour,  and 
looking  backward,  we  took  our  farewell  glimpse  of  the 
Tower  of  David  and  the  yellow  walls  of  the  Holy  City. 
During  the  three  hours'  ride  to  Jaffa  the  threatening 
clouds  passed  away,  the  sun  re-appeared,  the  rough 
winds  changed  to  soft  breezes,  and  our  depressed  spirits 
rose  correspondingly.  By  the  time  the  orange  groves 
in  the  suburbs  of  Jaffa  came  into  sight,  the  tourists 
were  in  a  gay  and  cheerful  humor.  But  when  we  ar- 
rived at  the  pier  of  Jaffa,  we  discovered  that  the  sea 
still  felt  the  effects  of  the  gale.  The  surf  was  rolling 
high  and  the  angry  waves  were  breaking  violenth^  over 
the  ugly-looking  rocks  in  the  harbor,  hiding  them  for 
an  instant  from  view  and  sending  the  snowy  spray  high 
into  the  air.  As  we  looked  out  toward  the  Moltke  riding 
at  anchor  a  mile  away,  many  of  the  gay  faces  became 
sober.  The  boatmen  holding  the  tossing  boats  to  the 
pier  urged  us  to  embark. 

17  (257) 


258  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"But  timorous  mortals  start  and  shrink  to  cross  the  narrow  sea, 
And  linger  trembling  on  the  brink  and  fear  to  launch  away  " 

"Oh,  I  cannot  venture!  Go  without  me!  Leave  me 
behind!"  exclaimed  one  of  the  ladies,  trembling  and 
almost  fainting  through  fear.  "Those  black  rocks 
momentarily  emerging  and  disappearing  seem  like  the 
heads  of  terrible  monsters  waiting  to  devour  us  as  soon 
as  we  come  within  their  reach." 

"Do  not  be  alarmed,"  said  one  of  the  officials  on  the 
pier,  encouragingly.  "The  sea,  as  you  say,  has  a 
threatening  look,  but  I  assure  you  that  if  there  were  any 
danger  we  would  not  permit  you  to  attempt  the  passage. 
These  Svrian  boatmen  have  been  carrying  passengers 
for  years  and  know  every  rock  in  the  harbor.  They 
brought  the  Damascus  tourists  from  the  Moltke  without 
mishap  this  morning  when  the  sea  was  rougher  than  now. 
Trust  the  boatmen  and  you  will  soon  be  safely  on  board 
the  steamer." 

As  our  boat  in  its  passage  over  the  stormy  billows 
plunged  downward  into  the  trough  of  the  sea,  and 
horizon,  ship,  and  land  were  hidden  from  view,  we 
thought  that  the  uplifted,  on-coming  crests  of  the  weaves 
would  engulf  the  boat  beneath  them;  but,  expertly 
handled  by  the  trained  rowers,  the  craft  rose  with  each 
immense  surge  and  safely  passed  the  breakers.  The 
Syrian  boatmen,  who  had  been  continually  chanting 
their  hymns  to  Allah  while  plying  their  oars,  suddenly 
stopped  singing. 

"Bachsheesh!  Backsheesh!"  they  cried,  ceasing  to 
row,  while  one  of  them,  dofhng  his  fez,  passed  it  around 
the  boat   for   contributions.     The   passengers,   grateful 


(259) 


2  6o  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

for  safety,  dropped  their  coins  into  the  fez;  again  the 
oars  were  put  in  motion,  the  chant  was  resumed,  and  in 
a  few  minutes  the  boats  were  alongside  the  vessel. 

Then  came  the  difficulty  of  getting  on  board  the 
steamer ;  for  the  little  boat  lay  underneath  the  platform 
at  the  foot  of  the  ship's  ladder,  tossed  by  the  billows. 
As  each  heaving  swell,  however,  bore  the  boat  upward, 
two  sturdy  seamen  on  the  platform,  reaching  down, 
grasped  a  passenger's  arms  and  drew  him  up  while  the 
boatmen  assisted  from  underneath.  In  this  way,  one 
with  each  wave,  the  tourists  safely  embarked.  The 
passage  from  the  pier  to  the  steamer  affected  the  tourists 
in  various  ways :  many  were  frightened,  notwithstanding 
the  assertion  of  the  official  that  the  dangers  were  more 
apparent  than  real;  others  were  exhilarated  by  the 
tossing  waves  and  enjoyed  the  thrilling  experience. 

"I  was  so  interested  in  watching  the  muscular  develop- 
ment of  the  boatmen  as  they  pulled  at  the  oars,  and  in  ad- 
miring the  dexterity  and  skill  with  which  they  managed 
the  boat,  that  I  did  not  think  of  danger, "  remarked 
a  man  who  had  been  stroke  oar  on  a  college  crew. 

While  the  tourists  were  being  transferred  to  the  ship, 
the  band  on  deck  was  playing  "Home,  Sweet  Home," 
and  the  Captain  and  other  officers  standing  at  the  head 
of  the  stairway  gave  a  friendly  greeting  to  the  wanderers 
as  they  came  on  board. 

"It  is  pleasant  to  be  welcomed  back  in  this  friendly 
manner,"  remarked  one  of  the  ramblers  to  another 
as  they  entered  their  cabin,  "and  then  it  is  so  homelike 
here  in  our  stateroom,  with  our  photographs  and  nick- 
nacks  pinned  around  the  walls. " 


H 
M 

< 

I 

Pi 
o 

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(261) 


262  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

A  busy  afternoon  of  re-packing  followed  the  departure 
from  Jaffa,  for  on  the  following  day  the  tourists  were 
to  leave  the  steamer  at  Alexandria  to  remain  twelve 
days  in  Egypt.  Clothing  that  was  considered  suitable 
for  the  climate  of  that  warmer  region  was  carefully 
selected  and  condensed  into  the  smaller  receptacles, 
and  every  article  that  the  tourists  supposed  would  not 
be  required  was  left  in  the  staterooms. 

On  Tuesday  morning,  March  tenth,  at  seven  o'clock, 
the  Moltke  was  anchored  in  the  commodious  port  of 
Alexandria,  which  is  enclosed  by  long  stone  breakwaters 
that  have  been  built  into  the  sea  to  protect  the  harbor. 
Many  vessels  were  at  the  docks  or  at  anchor  in  the  port, 
and  a  handsome  white  yacht  flying  the  imperial  flag  of 
Germany  lay  within  a  stone's  throw  of  our  steamer. 

' '  The  Crown  Prince  of  the  German  Empire  is  visiting 
Egypt  and  that  is  his  yacht,"  said  one  of  the  officers. 

The  morning  was  bright  and  clear.  It  was  a  delight 
to  breathe  the  warm  salt  air  and  feel  its  invigoration. 
Overhead  the  sky  was  brilliantly  blue  and  the  sea  reflec- 
ted it  in  various  hues. 

Did  you  ever  see  such  wonderful  coloring  on  the 
waters  of  sea  or  river?"  asked  an  enthusiastic  beholder. 
"Near  by  the  sea  sparkles  in  the  morning  sunlight  in 
azure  and  olive  and  darkens  into  sapphire  and  emerald, 
and  there  beyond  the  breakwater  it  changes  to  tints  of 
violet  and  purple.  I  have  heard  that  the  colors  of  the 
Mediterranean  are  beautiful ;  now  I  know  they  are." 

The  row  boats  that  were  to  carry  us  ashore  gathered 
around  the  steamer.  The  bare-footed  boatmen,  with 
faces   of  various   shades   from  light   yellow  to  intense 


(263) 


2  64  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

black,  were  attired  in  red  fez,  white  bloomers,  and  long 
red  sweaters. 

At  the  custom  house  on  the  dock  the  custom  officials 
accepted  the  statement  of  the  managers  that  the  baggage 
of  the  tourists  contained  nothing  dutiable,  and  the 
baggage  was  passed  without  examination.  A  special 
train  was  on  the  pier  ready  to  convey  the  party  to 
Cairo.  Beggars  and  peddlers  attempted  to  approach 
the  train  to  ask  alms  or  sell  their  wares,  but  were  driven 
away  with  whips  by  black  Nubian  soldiers  in  dark  blue 
uniforms,  who  appeared  to  take  delight  in  snapping  at 
the  bare  legs  of  the  intruders. 

It  was  just  noon  when  our  train,  the  second  special 
section,  moved  out  of  Alexandria  through  long  rows  of 
large  warehouses;  for  Alexandria  is  the  chief  seaport 
of  Egypt  and  exports  the  cotton,  grain,  sugar,  rice,  and 
other  productions  of  the  valley  of  the  Nile.  As  the 
train  passed  rapidly  southward  through  the  delta  of  the 
Nile,  we  realized  that  we  were  in  a  land  entirely  different 
from  any  that  we  had  previously  visited.  The  trip 
of  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  to  Cairo  will  be  re- 
membered by  the  tourists  as  a  panoramic  succession  of 
interesting  pictures  of  agricultural  life.  The  land  on 
both  sides  of  the  railway  was  a  black,  sandy  loam,  level 
almost  as  a  floor,  intersected  and  broken  only  by  the 
canals  and  irrigation  ditches.  For  some  distance  out 
of  Alexandria  the  Mahm.udiyeh  canal  was  in  sight. 

"There  is  a  scene  that  is  familiar  to  me!"  exclaimed 
one  of  the  party.  "A  landscape  hanging  in  the  art 
gallery  of  our  city  represents  the  light  blue  water  of  a 
canal  mirroring  tufted  palms  and  wing-like  sails.     It 


(265^ 


266 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


was  painted  by  a  noted  artist,  who  has  successfully 
reproduced  many  beautiful  Egyptian  views." 

Nile  boats  with  breeze-filled  canvas,  caravans  of 
camels  on  the  embankment  of  the  canal,  and  trains 
of  donkeys  laden  with  marketing  for  the  city  by  the  sea, 
seemed  stationar}^  as  we  rushed  by.  The  land  appeared 
to  be  thoroughly  cultivated.  There  were  no  fences  or 
waste  corners  in  sight.  Every  foot  of  workable  ground 
was  utilized  for  raising  crops. 

"  Irrig£:tion    makes    this    almost    rainless    region    the 


EACH    ARAB  S    CART    CONTAINED    HIS    WIVES. 

most  fruitful  on  the  globe,"  remarked  one  of  the  man- 
agers of  the  tour.  "By  the  aid  of  irrigation  the  Egyp- 
tian farmers  can  raise  two  or  three  crops  every  year. 
To  do  so,  however,  they  must  labor  incessantly  and 
give  the  land  thorough  cultivation.  Irrigation  with 
them  is  not  opening  the  gates  of  a  sluiceway  and  letting 
the  water  flow  over  the  land.  It  means  severe  labor, 
pumping  the  water  up  from  the  ditches,  canals,  or 
river,  in  which  the  surface  of  the  water  mav  be  ten  or 


(267) 


268  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

twenty  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  land.  The  pumps 
are  the  same  kind  that  the  people  used  in  the  days  of 
the  Pharaohs,  and  the  methods  of  cultivation  are  the 
same  as  in  those  ancient  times,  without  modern  agricul- 
tural implements  or  modern  machinery.  Three  crops, 
therefore,  does  not  mean  great  prosperity,  but  simply 
enables  the  Egyptian  farmer  to  pay  taxes  that  would 
seem  enormous  to  an  American  farmer,  and  then  to  have 
a  surplus  sufficient  to  supply  his  very  moderate  wants. " 

The  monotony  of  the  level  stretches  was  varied  by 
groups  of  palm  trees  whose  tall  rough  trunks  upheld 
graceful  heads  of  outstretched,  drooping  leaves,  and  by 
villages  of  small  mud  huts  roofed  with  stalks  of  sugar- 
cane, sufficient,  we  imagined,  in  that  dry  country,  to 
protect  the  inmates  from  the  burning  noonday  heat, 
and  to  shelter  them  from  the  chilling  night  dews.  Oc- 
casionally the  train  stopped  at  large  and  apparently 
prosperous  towns,  where  there  were  substantial  stone 
buildings  and  busy  factories.  At  these  stations  Arab 
venders  offered  coffee,  lemonade,  fruit,  and  other  re- 
freshments to  appease  the  hunger  and  thirst  of  the 
travelers. 

The  fields  were  full  of  life.  Each  cultivated  acre  had 
its  dark-hued  laborers  with  hoes,  or  bare-legged  toilers 
drawing  water  from  the  ditches  for  irrigating  the 
thirsty  land,  or  plowmen  guiding  teams  of  ungainly, 
striding  camels  or  dark  gray,  crooked-horned  oxen. 
In  the  lush  meadows  many  of  these  curious-looking 
animals  were  grazing.  The  camels,  the  small  donkeys, 
and  the  gray  oxen  or  water-buffaloes  as  the  natives  called 
them,  tied  to  stakes,  were  restricted  to  the  pasturage 


(269) 


2  70  .4   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

within  reach  of  their  tethers.  Along  some  of  the  irrigat- 
ing canals  naked  dark-skinned  men  and  boys  splashed 
about  in  the  water,  or  stood  unabashed  on  the  bank  of 
the  stream,  gazing  at  the  passing  train. 

"Look  at  that  scene,"  cried  one  of  the  passengers. 
"I  wonder  whether  our  cattle  at  home  would  not  enjoy 
similar  treatment. " 

In  the  canal  some  naked  boys  were  mounted  on  a 
buffalo,  and  near  them  an  Arab,  also  in  the  water,  was 
scrubbing  the  back  of  another  buffalo,  to  the  evident 
enjoyment  of  that  animal. 

As  we  approached  Cairo,  the  great  valley  of  the  delta 
narrowed,  and  mountain  boundaries  loomed  up  in  the 
distance.  Far  away  to  the  right  the  tops  of  the  Pyra- 
mids, looking  very  small,  silhouetted  the  sky.  On  the 
left,  high  hills  broke  the  landscape,  and  presently  the 
buildings  and  minarets  that  crowned  the  hills  were 
outlined  on  the  horizon.  Handsome  villas,  beautiful 
gardens,  good  roads,  and  increasing  traffic  in  the  suburbs 
indicated  the  nearness  of  a  prosperous  city. 

Just  four  hours  after  leaving  Alexandria  our  train 
entered  the  station  at  Cairo,  where  hot  el -runners,  cab- 
men, and  porters  gave  the  passengers  a  noisy  reception. 
Complete  arrangements  having  been  made  in  advance 
for  our  party,  we  had  time  to  take  in  the  novel  sights 
leisurely.  The  party  had  been  divided  into  two  sec- 
tions; one  section  booked  for  the  famous  Shepheard's 
Hotel,  the  other  section  for  the  Hotel  Grand  Continental. 
The  avenues  through  which  we  were  driven  on  the  way 
to  the  Hotel  were  bordered  with  large  shade  trees. 
The  streets  were  full  of  hfe.     The  buildings  were  modern, 


o 


<  < 

<  w 

Q 
W 

w 
> 
o 

X 

C/2 


(271) 


272  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

seemingly  of  French  style,  with  a  mixture  of  Oriental 
architecture. 

"What  a  contrast,"  said  one,  thinking  aloud  of  the 
city  we  had  left  but  two  days  ago,  as  our  carriage  glided 
smoothly  over  the  well  paved  highways.  "Did  two 
cities  ever  present  a  stronger  contrast  than  Jerusalem, 
with  streets  narrow,  rough,  filthy,  and  depressing  to  the 
spirits,  and  Cairo,  with  avenues  broad,  smooth,  clean, 
and  pleasing  to  the  senses.''  The  interest  in  the  city 
of  Jerusalem  had  to  be  stirred  by  the  memorials  of  the 
sacred  events  of  the  past ;  the  discomforts  of  the  present 
had  to  be  overlooked.  The  city  of  Cairo  appeals  to  us 
at  once  as  a  pleasure  ground  with  attractions  on  all 
sides,  and  the  promise  of  comfortable  surroundings." 

The  hotels  of  Cairo  are  famous  throughout  the  world 
for  the  magnificence  of  their  appointments,  the  cosmo- 
politan character  of  their  guests,  and  the  novelty  of  the 
sights  that  may  be  seen  at  their  doors.  When  we  drove 
up  to  the  Hotel  Grand  Continental,  a  military  band  was 
giving  an  afternoon  concert  in  the  beautiful  Esbekieh 
Gardens  opposite  the  hotel.  On  the  wide  pavement  in 
front  of  the  piazza  of  the  hotel,  dragomen  in  elaborate 
Arabic  costumes  were  offering  their  services  as  guides 
or  interpreters.  "Want  a  guide?  want  a  guide?"  they 
inquired  of  all  strangers  who  they  thought  might  need 
such  service.  Arab  urchins,  whose  hands  may  have 
once  been  clean,  offered  picture  postal  cards  for  sale; 
bootblacks  solicited  patronage  and  beggars  asked  for 
alms;  match  peddlers  endeavored  to  dispose  of  their 
little  boxes ;  flower  sellers  thrust  their  bouquets  forward 
into  notice;  dealers  in  scarabs  and  miniature  mummy 


CAIRO  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


273 


cases  proclaimed  the  virtues  of  their  charms;  and 
venders  of  beads  offered  endless  varieties  of  their  fanciful, 
colored  Egyptian  wares.  Interest  in  the  scene  was 
heightened  by  the  variety  of  the  characteristic  flowing 
gowns  peculiar  to  the  natives  of  Egypt.  On  the  piazza, 
groups  of  guests  were  taking  afternoon  tea,  and  listening 


MAY    TAKE    CAMELS    OR    DONKEYS    AND    RIDE. 


to  the  music  in  the  park  opposite,  or,  seated  comfortabty 
in  wicker  chairs,  found  amusement  in  watching  the  ani- 
mated throng  on  the  sidewalk ;  in  observing  the  arrivals 
and  departures  on  donkeys  and  in  victorias ;  and  in  view- 
ing the  constant  panoramic  procession  on  the  street. 

18 


2  74  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

The  head  porter,  in  gorgeous  uniform,  received  us  with 
the  air  of  a  proprietor ;  Arab  bell  boys  in  bright  red  silk 
gowns  responded  to  the  call  of  the  manager  and  con- 
ducted us  to  our  rooms ;  and  Arab  men  in  white  gowns 
brought  up  our  luggage.  There  were  French  maids  on 
each  floor  to  attend  to  the  calls  of  the  ladies ;  but  Arab 
men  in  spotless  robes  made  the  beds,  cared  for  the 
rooms,  and  took  the  place  of  chambermaids.  These 
Arab  men  were  seated  in  the  wide  halls  when  not 
employed  at  their  tasks,  but  whenever  a  guest  approached 
the}^  rose  and  stood  at  attention,  appearing  very  tall 
in  their  white  drapery.  In  the  dining  room  the  English 
head  waiters  in  dress  suits  contrasted  strangely  with 
the  dark-skinned  Arab  waiters  in  handsome  silk  gowns 
of  various  colors. 

On  the  evening  we  arrived  in  Cairo  the  large  gardens 
of  Shepheard's  Hotel  were  beautifully  illuminated  with 
thousands  of  electric  lights  and  hundreds  of  Chinese 
lanterns  festooned  among  the  shrubbery.  Two  military 
bands  alternately  played  selections  from  favorite  com- 
posers during  the  evening.  An  exhibition  of  fire-works 
made  a  brilliant  display,  and  this  was  followed  by  a 
"battle  of  confetti"  in  the  garden  and  a  dance  in  the 
hotel.  Our  party  bought  packages  of  paper  confetti 
and  joined  the  gay  crowd  of  merrymakers  in  casting 
handfuls  of  the  colored  squares  of  paper  at  each  passer- 
by. At  the  dance  the  great  variet}^  of  handsome  uniforms 
worn  by  the  English  officers  attracted  our  attention, 
the  red  jackets  of  some  of  the  men  being  particularly 
noticeable  among  the  light  gowns  of  the  French  and 
English  women. 


CAIRO  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


275 


Plans  to  utilize  our  time  to  the  best  advantage  were 
carefully  made,  so  that  during  our  one  week  in  Cairo 
we  might  give  precedence  to  the  places  of  particular 
interest,  and  see  them  at  the  most  suitable  hours. 

When  we  visited  the  Egyptian  Museum,  the  wealth 


THE    CLIMBERS    DWINDLED    IX    SIZE. 


of  antiquities  displayed  within  its  commodious  and  well- 
lighted  halls  held  us  with  a  grasp  from  which  it  was 
difficult  to  break  loose.  The  mummies  of  the  old  kings 
who  had  been  dead  for  thirty  centuries  urged  us  to 
remain.     "We  will  tell  you  the  story  of  remote  ages," 


276 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


they  seemed  to  say.  There  Ramses  II,  with  gray  hair, 
thin  beard,  and  pierced  ears,  the  great  conqueror,  builder 
of  temples,  erector  of  statues,  and  maker  of  history, 
lay  peacefully  at  rest.  His  lips  were  firmly  closed,  his 
hands  folded  across  his  breast.  His  high  forehead 
indicated  the  judgment  with  which  he  governed,  and 


AFTER    REACHING    THE    TOP    OF    CHEOPS. 

the  strong  nose  suggested  the  greatness  of  his  power. 
And  near  him,  in  hieroglyphic-covered  coffins,  reposed 
Seti  I,  constructor  of  magnificent  edifices;  Ramses  III, 
oppressor  of  the  Israelites ;  and  many  other  famous  kings, 
queens,  priests,  and  warriors.  The  wooden  statue  of  a 
village  sheik  with  good-natured  face  and  crystal  eyes, 


H 

1^ 
W 
Q 

H 

m 

U 
H 

H 
p— I 
en 

q; 

w 
> 

u 


(277) 


278 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


and  the  tinted  limestone,  lifelike  statues  of  Prince 
Rahotep  and  his  wife  Nofret,  could  they  have  spoken, 
might  have  revealed  the  secrets  of  ages  long  before  the 
times  of  the  mummies ;  and  the  gray  stone  figure  of 
Chepren,  which  was  found  in  the  well  of  the  temple  of 


THE    PENNIES    APPARENTLY    CANNOT    BE    FOUND. 

Gizeh,  might  have  explained  the  mysteries  of  pyramid 
and  sphinx. 

From  the  parapet  of  the  citadel  which  crowns  the 
heights  above  Cairo,  we  gazed  at  the  extended  view  of 
roofs,   mosques,   minarets,   and  tombs   of   caliphs,   and 


CAIRO  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS.  279 

listened  to  the  story  of  the  massacre  of  the  Mamelukes 
and  the  legend  of  the  one  who  marvelously  escaped  by 
leaping  on  his  horse  over  the  parapet  to  the  ground 
sixty  feet  below.  To  convince  us  of  the  truth  of  this 
legend,  the  dragoman  showed  the  impression  of  the 
horse's  hoofs  in  the  stone  coping  on  the  wall.  The 
large  Mosque  of  Mehemet  AH,  on  the  heights,  is  built 
of  pure  alabaster  and  carpeted  with  costly  rugs.  The 
older  Mosque  of  Sultan  Ahmed,  at  the  foot  of  the  citadel 
hill,  is  built  of  sandstone  taken  from  the  Pyramids,  and, 
although  partly  in  ruins  and  with  bare  stone  floors,  it  is 
yet  beautiful. 

"This  mosque  make  Ahmed  glad.  He  not  want 
another  built  like  it,  so  he  chop  hand  off  architect," 
explained  our  good-natured  dragoman,  whose  control 
of  English  was  limited,  but  he  endeavored  to  relate  the 
legends  and  give  information. 

While  returning  from  the  citadel  we  came  by  an  open- 
air  market,  where  Egyptians  of  many  types  were  gather- 
ed in  groups  around  piles  of  merchandise  and  vegetables. 
Here  our  camera  man,  taking  advantage  of  an  opportune 
moment,  caught  a  dense  mass  of  faces  before  the  natives 
became  aware  of  his  presence. 

On  Friday  afternoon  we  visited  the  Monastery  El 
Akbar  to  see  the  religious  exercises  of  the  Twirling 
Dervishes,  which  take  place  there  every  Friday  after- 
noon. The  shrill  music,  the  fanatic  faces,  the  obeisance 
to  the  leader,  the  whirling  men,  the  naked  feet,  and  the 
never-touching  skirts,  just  as  we  beheld  them,  are 
pictured  vividly  by  Canon  Rawnsley,  in  his  "Idylls 
and  Lvrics  of  the  Nile, " 


28o  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

THE  DANCING  DERVISHES. 

The  shrillest  pipe  man  ever  played 
Was  making  music  overhead, 
And  in  a  circle,  down  below. 
Sat  men  whose  faces  seemed  to  show 
Another  world  was  all  their  trade. 

Then  up  they  rose,  and  one  by  one. 

Shook  skirts  down,  following  him  who  led 

To  where  the  elder  brother  sat — 

All  gaberdine  and  conic  hat, 

Then  bowed,  and  off  for  Heaven  they  spun. 

Their  hands  were  crossed  upon  their  breast. 
Their  eyes  were  closed  as  if  for  sleep. 
The  naked  foot  that  beat  the  floor, 
To  keep  them  spinning  more  and  more, 
Was  careless  of  all  need  for  rest. 

Soon  every  flowing  skirt  began 
Its  milk-white  spinning  plane  to  keep, 
Each  brother  of  the  holy  band 
Spun  in  and  out  with  lifted  hand, 
A  Teetotem  no  longer  man. 

The  gray  old  man,  their  leader,  went 
Throughout  his  spinning  fellowship. 
And  reverently  to  the  ear, 
Of  every  dervish  circling  near, 
He  spake  a  soft  encouragement. 

The  piper  piped  a  shriller  psalm. 
The  dancers  thro'  their  mystery  moved, 
Untouched,  untouching,  and  the  twirl 
That  set  our  giddy  heads  awhirl. 
Served  but  to  give  their  faces  calm. 


CAIRO  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS.  281 

We  drove  from  Cairo  to  the  Pyramids  of  Gizeh,  a 
distance  of  ten  miles,  over  a  substantial  macadamized 
avenue.  This  broad  highway,  elevated  eight  or  ten 
feet  above  the  adjoining  lands  in  order  to  protect  it 
from  the  flood  of  water  during  the  time  of  inundation, 
was  bordered  for  seven  miles  with  large  shade  trees,  and 
was  in  perfect  condition.  On  one  side  of  the  avenue 
an  electric  tramway  extended  from  the  bridge  at  Cairo 
to  the  Mena  House  Hotel  near  the  Pyramids. 

"We  might  have  reached  our  destination  more  quick- 
ly in  the  cars, "  said  our  manager  as  an  electric  car  sped 
by  us,  "but  at  such  speed  we  should  have  missed  much 
that  is  strange  and  curious.  We  thought  it  preferable 
to  take  the  trip  in  open  carriages. " 

The  scenes  along  the  way  as  we  drove  to  the  Pyramids 
were  indeed  novel.  In  the  gardens  in  the  environs  of 
the  city,  the  cabbage,  onions,  beans,  and  strawberries 
were  in  readiness  for  the  market,  and  in  the  fields,  the 
clover  and  forage  plants,  dark  in  color  and  luxuriant  in 
growth,  were  ready  for  the  sickle,  but  the  wheat  was 
yet  green.  The  fellahs — the  Egyptian  farm-laborers — 
were  cutting  the  rank  clover  in  square  patches  and 
stacking  it  on  the  backs  of  camels  or  donkeys.  Along 
the  road  stalked  camels  beneath  huge  stacks  of  fragrant 
clover,  and  donkeys  so  laden  with  newly-cut  forage 
that  only  their  heads  and  feet  could  be  seen.  A  crooked- 
horned  ox  with  an  Arab  farmer  on  his  back  ambled  by. 
A  cavaran  of  camels  laden  with  blankets,  tents,  and 
military  supplies,  accompanied  by  a  guard  of  white- 
helmet  ed  English  soldiers,  almost  blocked  the  road 
as  they  marched  past.     Bronzed-faced  natives   seated 


282     •  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

in  the  shade  dealt  in  sugar-cane  stalks,  cutting  pieces 
of  cane  from  the  pile  of  stalks  beside  them  as  they  were 
sold.  Turbaned  Arabs  sauntered  by,  chewing  with 
evident  enjoyment  the  sweet  stalks  which  they  had 
purchased.  Bedouins  from  the  desert  rode  past  on 
camels  bedecked  with  tasseled  trappings,  swaying  back 
and  forth  as  they  rode.  "Women,  partly  veiled,  coming 
from  the  wells,  balanced  on  their  heads  large  earthen 
bottles  filled  with  water. 

"There  are  many  pyramids,"  said  the  guide,  as  our 
carriage  emerged  from  the  shade  of  the  trees  and  the 
Pyramids  were  seen  in  the  distance,  "but  Cheops  is 
the  greatest,  and  it  is  the  one  that  is  ascended  by 
visitors ;  the  other  Pyramids  are  viewed  at  a  distance 
but  are  visited  by  few.  Cheops  is  four  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  in  height  and  each  side  of  the  base  measures 
seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  It  was  originally  much 
larger  and  higher  but  the  outer  layers  of  stone  w^ere  torn 
down  and  carried  away  to  Cairo  to  build  mosques  and 
palaces.  The  adjacent  Pyramid  of  Chepren  is  almost 
as  large  but  as  some  of  the  steps  are  cased,  it  is  more 
difficult  to  ascend.  When  we  arrive  at  the  pyramids 
you  may  take  camels  or  donkeys  and  ride  around  the 
base  of  Cheops.  Or  if  you  prefer  to  go  on  foot,  you 
may  walk  around  it,  but  walking  in  the  sand  is  tiresome. 
Then  we  will  proceed  to  the  Sphinx  and,  after  viewing  it, 
descend  to  the  excavated  temple  near  the  Sphinx. 
Afterwards,  those  who  feel  equal  to  the  exertion  may 
climb  to  the  summit  of  Cheops.  As  this  Pyramid  is 
built  of  huge  blocks  of  stone  about  three  feet  in  thick- 
ness   each    stc])    upward    requires    some    effort.     The 


THE    TOMB    MOSQUE    OF    THE    KHALIF    KAFF    BEY    WAS 
THE  FINEST. 


(283) 


284  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

Bedouins,  however,  will  assist  you  in  the  ascent,  two 
of  them  mounting  the  step  ahead  and  drawing  you  up 
while  a  third  pushes  behind." 

As  we  neared  them,  the  Pyramids,  which  at  first  had 
seemed  small  and  haz}-  in  the  distance,  became  distinct 
and  grew  in  size.  When  very  close  to  them  they  appeared 
enormous,  but  their  magnitude  was  not  fully  appreciated 
until  some  hours  later,  after  we  had  tramped  through 
the  sand  around  the  four  sides  of  great  Cheops.  After 
that  walk,  a  distance  of  more  than  half  a  mile,  we  could 
judge  with  greater  exactness  the  immense  proportions 
of  the  extensive  base.  The  slope  of  the  sides  prevent- 
ed a  fair  conception  of  their  height  when  looking  upward 
at  them;  but  after  reaching  the  top  of  Cheops,  panting 
with  the  exertion  of  the  laborious  climb  in  which  we  had 
been  assisted  by  three  Bedouins,  we  looked  down  at  the 
midgets  moving  on  the  sand  below,  and  were  convinced 
that  the  altitude  stated  by  the  guide  was  not  exaggerated. 

The  Pyramids  of  Gizeh  stand  upon  a  plateau  about 
four  hundred  acres  in  extent,  which  appeared  to  be 
thirty  or  more  feet  above  the  level  of  the  surrounding 
country.  The  surface  of  this  plateau  is  a  barren  sandy 
tract,  bordered  by  cultivated  land  on  the  side  toward 
the  Nile  and  merging  on  the  west  into  the  Libyan  desert 
which  stretches  to  the  distant  hills.  Just  as  far  as  the 
inundation  of  the  Nile  spreads  or  the  irrigating  water 
was  pumped,  the  land  was  fertile;  where  the  surface  rose 
above  the  height  reached  by  the  water,  the  land  was  a 
barren  waste.  Almost  as  suddenly  as  landing  from  an 
emerald  sea  on  to  a  desert  shore,  we  stepped  from  a 
rich  growth  of  verdure  to  a  bare  slope  of  yellow  sand. 


CAIRO  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


28s 


At  the  foot  of  the  Pyramid  of  Cheops  a  gesticulating, 
vociferous  throng  of  Bedouins  crowded  about  us,  shout- 
ing in  Arabic  mixed  with  a  few  intelHgible  Enghsh  words. 
Camel-drivers  and  donkey  bo^^s  offered  the  services  of 
their  animals  to  make 
the  circuit;  helpers, 
almost  dragging  us 
away  in  their  eager- 
ness, insisted  that  we 
should  climb  to  the 
summit ;  and  guides 
with  candles  in  their 
hands  importuned  us 
to  accompany  them 
into  the  gloomy  in- 
terior. After  a  selec- 
tion of  camels  and 
donkeys  had  been 
made  by  those  who 
desired  to  ride,  the 
clamorous  crowd  of 
natives  separated,  and 
we  were  allowed  to 
start  accompanied  by 
but  a  few,  who  fol- 
lowed in  case  they 
should  be  needed. 
"Madam  might  drop 
her  shawl,  or  want  her  umbrella  carried,  or  need  an  arm 
to  steady  her  in  the  saddle, "  explained  the  guide. 

"For  scores  of  centuries,"  remarked  the  professor, 


ASTRIDE    ITS    MOTHER  S    SHOULDERS. 


286  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

as  we  stood  before  the  Sphinx,  "the  strong  winds  from 
the  west  have  carried  particles  of  sand  from  the  desert 
and  deposited  them  around  the  Pyramids.  Now  the 
original  base  of  Cheops  lies  twenty  or  thirty  feet  be- 
neath banks  of  sand  and  debris  that  have  collected 
around  it.  In  the  same  manner  the  encroaching 
particles,  drifting  like  the  light  dry  snows  of  the  prairies, 
have  almost  engulfed  the  Sphinx.  Many  times  in  the 
past  the  sand  has  been  shoveled  away  to  prevent  the 
Sphinx  from  being  hidden  from  sight,  and  if  this  excava- 
tion in  which  it  now  stands  should  be  neglected  for  a 
time,  the  desert  winds  would  fill  the  pit  again  and 
gradually  cover  the  monument.  The  Granite  Temple 
adjacent  to  the  Sphinx  was  covered  over  so  completely 
in  the  progress  of  centuries  that  its  location  was  for- 
gotten. It  is  but  fifty  years  since  the  French  archaeol- 
ogist Mariette  discovered  and  excavated  the  interior 
of  this  large  structure,  the  exterior  of  which,  as  you  see, 
yet  remains  embedded  in  sand  as  far  as  the  capstone 
on  the  walls. " 

After  descending  the  steps  that  led  down  to  the  floor 
of  the  buried  temple  and  passing  through  rooms  con- 
structed of  blocks  of  alabaster,  we  stood  in  the  main 
hall,  surrounded  by  monolithic  pillars  of  granite  which 
supported  enormous  blocks  of  the  same  material  over- 
head. The  guide  said  that  these  huge  blocks  of  granite 
had  been  brought  from  quarries  at  Assuan,  far  up  the 
Nile,  but  he  could  not  tell  how  the  ancient  Egyptians 
had  been  able  to  handle  the  monoliths. 

"My  theory  may  not  be  correct,"  said  the  professor, 
as    we    turned    to     him    for    a    reply   to    the    query 


o 

'/I 

o 


(287) 


288  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"but  I  will  state  it.  We  know  how  the  great  blocks 
of  limestone  that  were  used  in  the  erection  of  the 
Pyramids  were  brought  from  the  Libyan  mountains ; 
for  the  father  of  history,  Herodotus,  relates  the 
stor)\  He  says  that  the  Egyptians  constructed  a 
solid  road  sixty  feet  wide  of  polished  stone  from  the 
quarry  in  the  L^^-bian  mountains  and  over  this  smooth 
roadbed  dragged  or  rolled  the  huge  blocks.  He  also 
states  that  as  the  work  progressed,  these  blocks  were 
lifted  by  machines  from  step  to  step  and  imbedded  in 
their  places  in  the  pyramid.  When  granite  or  other 
stone  had  to  be  brought  from  a  great  distance  for  the 
erection  of  temples  and  palaces,  as  for  this  granite  and 
alabaster  temple  of  the  Sphinx,  the  Egyptians  probably 
adopted  the  simplest  way  of  conveying  the  material 
in  a  land  where  task-masters  drove  tens  of  thousands 
of  slaves  to  labor  on  the  public  works.  That  is,  they 
probably  excavated  canals  from  the  Nile  to  the  quarries, 
supplementing  these,  where  necessary,  with  stone  road- 
ways or  slides,  and  made  other  canals  from  the  Nile  to  the 
location  selected  for  the  buildings,  and  transported  the 
unwieldy  masses  of  stone  on  barges  to  their  destination. " 

"I  made  some  calculations  for  comparison  last  night, " 
continued  the  professor,  seeing  that  we  were  interested 
in  his  statements.  "Professor  Petrie,  the  archaeologist, 
says  that  there  are  over  two  million  large  blocks  of 
stone  in  the  Pyramid  of  Cheops,  or  ninety -two  million 
cubic  feet. " 

"Now,  Professor,"  said  one  of  the  ladies,  interrupting 
him,  "you  are  getting  above  our  comprehension  when 
you  soar  into  millions. " 


CAIRO  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


289 


"Am  I?"  he  replied.  "Well,  I  will  leave  the  millions 
and  give  you  something  more  familiar.  The  Capitol 
at  Washington  is  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long, — 
just  the  length  of  each  side  of  the  base  of  Cheops, — but 
the  Capitol  is  not  half  that  in  width.  The  Capitol 
covers  an  area  of  three  and  one-half  acres ;  the  Pyramid 
spreads  over  thirteen  acres,     The  apex  of  the  Pyramid 


BEARING    ON    HIS    BACK    AN    UNWIELDY    GOATSKIN, 

is  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet  higher  than  the  head  of 
Freedom  on  the  dome  at  Washington.  The  Capitol 
is  a  hollow  structure ;  the  Pyramid,  a  solid  mass,  except- 
ing the  comparatively  small  chamber  of  the  tomb  and 
passage  ways.  The  stone  used  in  the  construction  of 
Cheops  would  be  sufficient  to  build  the  Capitol  and  the 
Library  of  Congress,  and  there  would  be  enou8:h  material 

19 


290  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

left  over  for  capitol  buildings  in  each  of  the  states  in 
the  Union.  When  you  have  time,  calculate  how  many 
miles  of  stone  wall  might  be  constructed  with  ninety- 
two  million  cubic  feet  of  stone.  It  is  only  by  compar- 
ison that  we  can  comprehend  the  stupendous  bulk  of 
these  magnificent  monuments,  and  realize  the  prodig- 
ious amount  of  labor  that  was  required  for  their  erec- 
tion." 

It  was  but  a  short  drive  from  the  Hotel  Grand  Con- 
tinental to  the  Muski,  the  narrow  street  that  is  the  centre 
of  the  bazaar  district,  a  district  which  every  visitor  is 
sure  to  find  soon  after  his  arrival  in  Cairo,  When  we 
entered  the  crowded  Muski,  we  left  the  broad  avenues 
of  the  modern  city  behind  and  walked  in  narrow  Oriental 
streets  through  which  carriages  are  not  allowed  to  go. 

"Everything  is  novel  and  interesting  in  this  busy 
thoroughfare,"  said  one  of  our  party.  "I  suggest  that 
we  move  along  very  slowly  and  stop  frequently.  See 
that  lemonade  vender  with  the  brass  tank  strapped  to 
his  back.  When  he  bent  forward  the  water  flowed 
from  the  spout  over  his  shoulder  into  the  cup  he  held 
in  his  hand,  without  his  touching  the  tank.  He  is 
waiting  for  his  customer  to  produce  the  pennies  that 
apparently  cannot  be  found." 

The  street  scenes  in  the  Muski  were  so  kaleidoscopic 
that  it  is  impossible  to  give  more  than  a  suggestion  of 
their  character.  A  few  representative  scenes  can  be 
^iven  and  around  these  the  imagination  must  picture  a 
constantly  changing  throng,  not  hurrying  as  in  busy 
American  cities,  but  moving  leisurely  in  the*  Eastern 
manner.     The  crowd  was  orderly,  but   not   quiet,  for 


(29t) 


292  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

tongues  were  in  constant  use.  Merchants  and  customers 
chattered  and  parleyed.  Venders  of  Hcorice  water 
and  sweetmeats  did  not  permit  their  presence  to  be 
overlooked,  and  donkeys  occasionally  joined  in  the 
chorus.  Each  figure  unfamiliar  to  our  AVestern  eyes, 
in  turban  or  in  fez,  in  slippers  or  in  bare  feet,  in  scant 
gown  of  cotton  or  full  robe  of  silk,  was  a  subject  worthy 
of  being  considered  individually. 

A  baby,  astride  its  mother's  shoulder,  clung  to  her 
head  while  she  walked  along  and  made  her  purchases, 
apparently  unconscious  of  her  child.  A  bare-footed 
water  carrier,  bearing  on  his  back  an  unwieldy  goatskin 
distended  with  its  contents,  cried,  "Water  for  sale." 
A  donkey  boy  pushed  aside  the  crowd  to  let  the  closely 
veiled,  silk-mantled  lady  rider  pass  through  on  her 
caparisoned  donkey.  Muscular  fellahs,  or  peasants, 
in  brown  skull  caps,  and  blue  shirts  which  reached  to 
their  ankles,  their  feet  bare,  their  teeth  remarkable 
for  whiteness,  sauntered  along  chewing  stalks  of  sugar- 
cane. Women  of  the  poorer  class  passed  by,  wearing 
scanty  gowns  of  plain  blue  cotton,  heavy  copper  brace- 
lets, and  nose  ornaments  of  brass,  which  held  in  place 
the  veils  that  covered  the  lower  part  of  their  faces  but 
did  not  conceal  the  beauty  spots  tattooed  on  their  fore- 
heads. A  funeral  procession,  with  professional  mourners 
chanting  monotonously  a  hymn  to  Allah,  followed  a 
casket  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  men.  And  these 
curious  scenes,  which  we  tried  to  catch  with  the  camera, 
formed  but  unimportant  parts  in  an  ever-moving 
picture  in  which  were  intermingled  the  costumes, 
colors,  and  facial  characteristics  of    dervishes,  priests, 


CAIRO  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


293 


and  soldiers,  of  Arabs,  Nubians,  Turks,  and  Americans. 
The  Muski  and  the  crooked  Httle  passage-ways  that 
intersected  it  were  Hned  with  small  shops  where  many 
of  the  dealers  sat  cross-legged  on  platforms  within  arm's 
reach  of  their  stock  of  goods.     The  stores  for  the  sale  of 


IN   THE   COURT  OF  THE  ALABASTER   MOSQUE  IS   A   FOUNTAIN. 

each  kind  of  goods  had  a  special  quarter  of  their  own. 
At  one  place  we  saw  the  shops  of  the  coppersmiths  with 
stocks  of  bright  kettles,  pitchers,  basins,  trays,  and 
pans;  at  another,  the  stores  of  the  shoemakers,  where 
hundreds  of  bright  red  slippers  dangled  on  lines  over- 


294  ^   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

head.  In  one  crooked  alley,  but  four  feet  in  width,  we 
watched  the  goldsmiths,  squatted  in  narrow  quarters, 
busily  at  work  with  brazier  and  blowpipes  and  curious 
little  tools,  hammering,  twisting,  and  welding  chains  of 
gold,  and  making  ornaments  of  silver  filagree. 

We  bought  souvenirs  at  the  stalls  of  the  fez  dealers, 
where  but  one  st3de  of  headgear  was  sold,  always  red 
in  color,  and  with  prices  varying  according  to  the 
quality  of  the  cloth  and  lining.  We  stopped  at  the  ware- 
rooms  of  the  brass-smiths,  which  were  larger  in  size 
than  the  ordinary  shops,  and  found  these  filled  with  an 
array  of  hammered  trays,  censers,  bowls,  tankards, 
curiously  wrought  lamps,  and  ornamented  candlesticks, 
that  attracted  many  buyers.  We  looked  into  the  little 
factories  of  the  saddlers,  which  were  gay  with  red 
and  yellow  trappings  for  donkeys  and  horses,  and 
where  the  saddlers  were  stitching  with  bright  colored- 
threads. 

The  light  open-front  workshops  of  the  makers  of 
hempen  camel  harness  were  hung  with  the  twisted 
rope  and  tassel  adornments  of  variegated  colors  with 
which  the  Bedouin  delights  to  array  his  ship  of  the 
desert.  The  stores  of  the  grocers  were  adorned  with 
long  decorated  candles  suspended  by  the  wicks.  We 
saw  hundreds  of  tiny  bazaars  for  the  sale  of  perfumes, 
placed  side  by  side  in  a  narrow  lane  where  the  air  was 
scented  with  musk  and  attar  of  roses ;  and  we  walked 
through  narrow  streets  where,  each  kind  in  its  own 
section,  earthen  water  jars,  lanterns,  books,  ornamented 
leather  work,  gems,  and  precious  stones  were  displayed 
for  sale. 


CAIRO  AND  THE  PYRAMIDS.  295 

The  guide  insisted  that  we  should  spend  a  Httle  time 
in  the  carpet  stores  in  a  side  street.  We  yielded  to  his 
entreaties,  and  were  surprised  by  the  immense  stacks 
of  exquisite  silk  rugs;  but  to  the  courteous  salesman's 
offer  to  show  us  everything  in  his  place,  we  were  com- 
pelled by  lack  of  time  to  reply,  "Another  day. "  When 
we  arrived  at  the  more  prominent  silk  bazaars,  the 
ladies  wished  to  buy  some  light  shawls  interwoven  with 
gold  thread  and  table  covers  embroidered  with  silk. 
They  soon  found  out,  however,  that,  as  in  the  other 
Oriental  cities,  much  time  would  be  required  for  bar- 
gaining, and  so  the  shopping  was  put  off  until  the  sight- 
seeing was  over. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
LUXOR  AND  KARNAK. 

THE  Nile  party  No.  2,  consisting  of  forty-two  per- 
sons, left  Cairo  on  Friday  morning,  March  thir- 
teenth, in  sleeping  cars.  '  The  cars  were  painted 
white  outside,  finished  in  cherry  inside,  and  divided  into 
rooms,  each  room  having  two  comfortable  berths  and  a 
washstand,  and  a  passageway  along  the  side  of  the  car. 
We  ate  our  dinner  that  evening  and  breakfast  the  fol- 
lowing morning  in  a  modern  dining  car  attached  to  the 
train. 

At  nine  o'clock  on  Saturday  morning  the  train 
arrived  at  our  destination,  the  town  of  Luxor,  about 
four  hundred  miles  south  of  Cairo.  The  Hotel  de 
Luxor,  at  which  we  stayed,  was  situated  in  the  midst 
of  a  large  irrigated  garden  where  palms  cast  a  grateful 
shade  and  roses  and  lilies  bloomed  among  tropical 
plants.  Within  this  hotel,  built  with  thick  stone  walls 
and  floored  with  flagstones,  the  tourists  found  a  pleas- 
ant refuge  from  the  heat  when  they  returned  from 
excursions  into  the  desert.  In  its  cool  dining  room, 
decorated  in  the  old  Egyptian  style  with  figures  of  gods 
and  goddesses,  with  lotus  blossoms  and  papyrus  flowers, 
with  hieroglyphics  and  symbols,  painted  on  frieze, 
walls,  and  window  sash,  the  tourists  were  waited  on  by 
white-robed,  white-turbaned,  red-sashed,  red-slippered 
natives. 

(296) 


(297) 


298  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

The  flies  were  a  great  pest.  They  were  numerous 
and  annoying,  although  we  found  that  they  did  not 
bite  so  hard  nor  tickle  the  skin  so  much  as  do  the  flies 
in  our  countr3^  Among  the  first  purchases  made  by 
the  tourists  in  Luxor  were  fly  brushes  made  of  palm 
fiber  or  of  white  horsehair  with  wooden  handles  and 
loops  to  attach  them  to  the  wrist.  It  was  amusing  to 
see  English,  German,  and  American  tourists  switching 
at  the  flies  with  their  horsetail  brushes  while  the  natives 
passively  endured  the  crawling  insects.  Egyptian 
mothers  in  the  village  permitted  the  flies  to  creep  over 
the  babies'  faces  and  settle  in  clusters  around  their 
eyes  without  attempting  to  drive  the  tormentors  away, 
either  too  lazy  to  do  so  or  desirous  that  the  babies 
should  become  hardened  to  the  annoyance.  We  pitied 
the  infants,  however,  and  some  of  the  ladies  of  our  party 
became  very  indignant  over  the  indifference — cruelty 
they  called  it — of  the  mothers.  We  saw  many  older 
children  afterwards  whose  skin  appeared  to  be  insensible 
to  the  tickling  feet ;  for  they  made  no  attempt  to  brush 
away  the  flies  which  covered  their  faces. 

Our  party  was  joined  during  the  morning  by  another 
party  of  tourists.  After  luncheon  we  all  proceeded  to 
the  end  of  the  shaded  garden,  where,  at  the  gateway,  we 
found  Mahmoud,  the  dragoman  who  had  been  selected 
to  take  charge  of  the  expedition.  His  assistants  were 
assembled  there  and  with  them  were  eighty  donkey 
boys,  each  with  his  donkey,  a  number  of  jinrikisha  men 
with  carts,  and  chair  men  with  chairs.  The  donkey 
boys  were  of  all  ages  from  lads  scarcely  in  their  teens  to 
veterans  of  ^[three-score    years.     The  donkeys  were  of 


(299) 


300 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


various  sizes  but  the  largest  were  not  over  four  feet  high. 
The  jinrikishas  had  each  two  attendants,  one  man  to 
pull  in  the  shafts  of  the  cart  and  one  to  push.  The 
chairs  borne  on  poles  on  the  shoulders  of  men  had  each 
six  carriers,  four  to  carry  and  two  as  a  relay.  Chairs 
or  jinrikishas  were  chosen  by  the  tourists  whose  bodies 
required  careful  treatment  and  by  those  who  preferred  to 


THEY    BROUGHT    WATER    IN    GOATSKINS    FROM    THE    NILE. 

travel  in  luxury.  The  donkeys,  however,  were  selected 
by  the  majority,  who  considered  it  a  far  greater  pleasure 
to  ride. 

"This  way!  this  way!  ladies  and  gentlemen,  if  you 
please!"  exclaimed  Mahmoud,  and  the  merry  cavalcade 
of  eighty  tourists  and  one  hundred  attendants  started 


BUILT   OVER   FORTY   CENTURIES    AGO. 
(301) 


30  2  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

off  through  the  village,  donkey  boys  chattering,  donkeys 
braying,  and  riders  gaily  chaffing  one  another  on  their 
appearance  in  the  saddle;  the  long-legged  professor 
holding  up  his  feet  to  prevent  them  from  scraping  the 
ground  and  the  jolly  stout  parson  mounted  on  the 
smallest  donkey.  Each  donkey  was  followed  by  a 
donkey  bo}'  who  whipped  the  patient  beast,  jabbed  him 
with  a  sharp  pointed  stick,  twisted  the  animal's  tail,  or 
talked  to  him  in  Arabic,  when  it  was  necessary  to  urge 
him  to  greater  speed.  When  urged,  the  donkeys  were 
fast  walkers.  But  whether  the  donkeys  were  walking, 
trotting,  or  galloping,  the  boys  with  little  exertion 
managed  to  keep  close  to  their  heels,  and  the  jinrikisha 
men  and  chair  men  could  keep  up  such  a  rapid  speed 
with  their  loads  that  it  was  difficult  to  leave  them  in  the 
rear. 

My  donkey  boy,  aged  about  sixteen,  told  me  that  his 
name  was  Abda  Mohammed  and  that  the  medium  sized 
white  donkey  on  which  I  rode  was  known  as  Alice 
Lovell.  With  broad  smiles  which  showed  a  perfect  set 
of  white  teeth,  he  repeated  over  and  over  again,  at 
intervals  during  the  short  ride,  "Alice  Lovell,  nice 
donkey,  good  donkey.  Abda,  nice  boy,  good  donkey 
boy,"  doubtless  thinking  that  if  I  could  fully  realize 
that  fact  the  backsheesh  at  parting  would  be  larger. 

A  half  hour's  ride  on  an  embanked  road  across  fields 
and  desert  sands  brought  us  to  the  ruins  of  a  great  arch, 
formerly  one  of  the  gateways  into  the  magnificent 
ancient  temples  of  Karnak,  but  now  an  entrance  way 
to  the  famous  ruins.  There,  the  Egyptian  guards 
ordered  us  to  show  our  government  permits,  or  monu- 


HAVE    ENDURED    THROUGH    MANY    AGES. 


(303) 


304  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

ment  tickets,  as  our  dragoman  called  them,  without 
which  we  could  not  inspect  the  ruins. 

"Oh!  I  have  forgotten  my  ticket!"  said  one  of  the 
tourists.     "I  left  it  with  my  satchel.     What  shall  I  do?" 

At  luncheon  before  starting  Mahmoud  had  cautioned 
the  tourists  to  be  careful  not  to  forget  their  permits, 
and  his  cautionary  words,  "Monument  tickets  are  very 
much  wanted,"  were  familiar  and  often  repeated.  A 
hurried  consultation  was  held  and  the  difficulty  over- 
come, but  the  forgetful  one  and  others  were  warned  that 
it  must  not  occur  again. 

In  order  to  provide  a  fund  to  be  used  in  excavating, 
preserving,  and  caring  for  the  ancient  temples  and 
tombs,  the  Egyptian  government  requires  a  permit  cost- 
ing six  dollars  to  be  taken  out  by  each  person  desiring 
to  visit  these  places,  and  without  such  a  permit  he 
cannot  enter.  At  Cairo  the  managers  of  the  tour  had 
obtained  from  the  government  for  each  member  of  the 
Nile  party  a  little  cloth  bound  "Service  des  Antiquites 
L'Egypte"  made  out  in  the  name  of  the  holder.  This 
open-sesame  for  the  iron  gates  was  given  to  each  person 
with  the  warning  that  it  must  not  be  forgotten. 

We  stopped  to  view  and  kodak  one  of  the  huge 
Propylons  or  outer  gate  ways  and  found  there  some 
visitors  who  had  driven  to  Karnak  in  modern  carriages 
instead  of  using  the  Oriental  way  of  conveyance  that 
we  had  taken.  An  avenue  of  Sphinxes  with  rams'  heads 
was  also  stowed  away  in  the  kodak  to  be  brought  to 
light  at  some  future  time. 

"These  stupendous  ruins  of  Karnak, "  said  the  drago- 
man, "were  once  a  group  of  magnificent  temples  cover- 


LUXOR  AND  KARNAK.  305 

ing  an  area  of  many  acres.  The  most  ancient  of  the 
structures  was  built  over  forty  centuries  ago.  Other 
temples  were  added  and  alterations  and  improvements 
made  during  the  ages  following  when  the  city  of  Thebes 
was  a  prosperous  capital;  but  for  over  two  thousand 
years  these  places  of  worship  have  been  abandoned 
and  the  sand  of  the  desert  has  collected  around  them, 
almost  burying  them  out  of  sight.  The  Egyptian  gov- 
ernment for  a  number  of  years  has  had  many  natives 
excavating,  and  also  has  been  raising  some  of  the  fallen 
columns. " 

As  we  passed  through  the  temple  grounds  we  saw  a 
number  of  men  and  boys  at  work,  as  the  dragoman  had 
stated.  These  excavators  scooped  the  sand  and  debris 
into  small  baskets,  while  a  taskmaster  stood  over  them, 
whip  in  hand.  Then  placing  the  filled  baskets  on  their 
heads  they  started  off  in  long  lines,  singing  as  they 
marched  to  the  deposit  heap.  The  men,  we  were 
informed,  earned  twenty-five  cents  a  day  at  this  labor, 
and  the  boys  ten  to  fifteen  cents  a  day. 

"One  thing  noticeable  about  these  most  magnificent 
ruins  in  the  world,"  continued  the  guide,  as  we  halted 
in  the  great  court,  "is  that  the  architecture,  the  sculp- 
ture, the  inscriptions,  of  the  earlier  temples  is  equal,  if 
not  superior,  to  the  workmanship  of  a  later  date.  The 
construction  work  done  under  the  great  kings  Ramses 
I,  Seti  I,  Ramses  II,  and  Amenophis  III,  who  ruled  over 
Egypt  thirteen  centuries  before  the  Christian  era,  has 
never  been  surpassed.  Stones  of  immense  size  were 
handled  by  their  architects  in  some  manner  unknown 
at  the  present  day,  and  walls  and  columns  were  erected 


3o6  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

of  such  solidity  and  strength  that  they  have  endured 
through  these  many  ages.  The  First  Pylon  or  gigantic 
portal  to  the  Temple  of  Amnion,  which  was  dedicated 
to  Ammon-Re,  the  King  of  the  Gods,  is  three  hundred 
and  seventy -two  feet  wide,  with  walls  sixteen  feet  thick 
and  one  hundred  and  forty -two  feet  high.  The  won- 
derful Hypostyle  Hall,  or  Hall  of  Columns,  is  three 
hundred  and  thirty-eight  feet  long  by  one  hundred 
and  seventy  feet  broad." 

"Before  we  enter,  let  me  read  you  what  the  noted 
Egyptologist  Rawlinson  says  with  reference  to  this 
Hall  of  Columns,"  said  the  professor,  drawing  out  his 
note  book.  "He  writes:  'The  greatest  of  all  Seti's 
work  was  his  pillared  hall  at  Karnak,  the  most  splendid 
single  chamber  that  has  ever  been  built  by  any  architect, 
and  even  in  its  ruins  one  of  the  grandest  sights  that  the 
world  contains. " 

The  huge  columns,  some  in  place,  some  leaning,  and 
others  prostrate,  were  an  impressive  sight.  The  guide 
called  our  attention  to  the  inscriptions  that  covered 
all  the  columns  and  to  the  traces  of  coloring  that  might 
still  be  seen  on  the  protected  parts.  In  order  that  we 
might  more  fully  realize  their  size,  he  suggested  that  we 
measure  the  circumference  of  one  with  our  arms.  It 
required  six  of  us  with  outstretched  arms  to  span  one  of 
the  larger  columns. 

As  we  passed  through  the  various  halls,  Mahmoud 
interpreted  and  explained  many  of  the  historical  inscrip- 
tions and  reliefs  with  which  the  ancient  Egyptian  kings 
had  covered  the  walls,  commemorating  the  victories 
they  had  gained  over  their  enemies.     One  wall  pictured 


< 

< 

< 

o 

<: 

o 

w 
h-) 

H 

w 

K 

H 


(307) 


3o8  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

the  triumph  of  Shishak  over  Rehoboam,  the  son  of 
Solomon.  The  captured  cities  were  represented  by 
circles  each  enclosing  the  name  of  the  city ;  the  captives, 
by  rows  of  Hebrews  bound  with  cords.  King  Shishak 
stood  over  the  captives  grasping  a  group  of  them  by 
the  hair  and  smiting  them  with  a  club,  and  slaves  carried 
the  golden  treasures  that  had  been  stripped  from  the 
temple  at  Jerusalem,  and  the  plunder  taken  from 
Rehoboam's  palace. 

On  our  return  to  Luxor  my  donkey  boy  Abda  and  I 
had  a  disagreement.  I  gave  him,  as  backsheesh,  a  tip 
equal  to  a  man's  wages  for  a  full  day's  work  in  Egypt; 
but  he  pleaded  with  tears  in  his  eyes  for  "more  back- 
sheesh," and  departed  apparently  in  great  anger. 

After  resting  awhile  in  the  cool  halls  of  our  hotel,  we 
walked  to  the  ruins  of  the  great  Temple  in  the  village  of 
Luxor,  close  by  the  river  bank  and  not  far  from  the  hotel. 

"In  the  year  1884,"  said  Mahmoud,  as  we  assembled 
around  him  in  the  ruins  where  the  gigantic  columns  rose 
forty  feet  above  our  heads,  "  I  was  living  in  a  house  that 
stood  just  over  where  we  are  now  standing  and  I  did  not 
know  that  a  part  of  the  temple  was  buried  in  the  earth 
underneath.  The  government  officials,  after  much 
haggling  and  complaining  about  the  prices  my  neighbors 
and  I  demanded,  bought  the  houses  and  lands  of  us, 
about  thirty  properties  in  all,  and  gave  us  other  lands, 
so  that  the  excavations  could  be  continued.  That 
year  this  part  of  the  temple  was  uncovered.  The  little 
white  mosque  at  the  corner  could  not  be  purchased,  as 
that  ground  is  sacred  and  must  not  be  disturbed  to 
uncover  ruins  underneath  it.  " 


p 
< 
w 

K 

W 

H 

iz; 
o 

en 

<: 

Q 

i-i 


(309) 


3IO 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


■'This  edifice,  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  Ammon," 
continued  the  guide,  "was  erected  by  King  Amenophis 


EMBELLISHED    THE    TEMPLE    WITH    STATUES    OF    HIMSELF. 

Ill  thirty -three  hundred  years  ago;    but  King  Ramses 
II,  one  hundred  years  later,  added  to  the  structure  and 


LUXOR  AND  KARNAK.  311 

made  it  a  memorial  of  his  reign  by  embellishing  the 
temple  with  statues  of  himself  and  covering  the  exterior 
walls  with  reliefs  and  inscriptions  picturing  and  describ- 
ing his  triumphs." 

We  saw  two  colossal  sitting  statues  of  Ramses  forty - 
five  feet  in  height,  one  of  which  was  completely  excava- 
ted, the  other  buried  breast  high  in  rubbish,  and  in  a 
court  of  the  temple  were  many  gigantic  standing  figures 
of  Ramses  placed  between  the  pillars.  Beside  one  of 
these  was  a  small  figure,  representing  the  queen  Nefer- 
tari,  which  just  reached  to  the  height  of  the  knees  of 
Ramses. 

"The  king  desired  to  indicate  by  the  size  of  the  statues 
that  he  was  a  great  conqueror,"  said  the  dragoman. 
"His  wife  was  the  daughter  of  Pharoah  who,  while 
bathing  in  the  Nile,  found  the  Hebrew  babe  hidden 
among  the  papyri  plants.  " 

"If  Nefertari  was  the  princess  who  rescued  Moses, 
she  deserved  a  larger  statue,"  responded  one  of  the 
tourists. 

"This  series  of  scenes  represents  the  victory  at 
Kadesh  in  Syria,"  explained  the  guide  as  we  stood  be- 
fore a  wall  covered  with  pictorial  representations  of 
conflict  cut  in  the  stone.  "Here  is  the  King  in  his 
chariot  charging  with  fury  on  his  foes  amid  flying  arrows. 
Notice  the  dead  and  wounded  scattered  over  the  held  of 
battle  and  the  Hittites  flying  in  confusion.  At  one  side 
you  see  the  Egyptian  camp,  and  on  the  other  side  the 
fortress  of  Kadesh  and  the  Syrian  king  amazed  at  the 
sight  of  his  army  in  wild  flight.  The  hieroglyphics  that 
cover  the  side  of  the  tower  give  a  detailed  account  of 


312  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

the  battle  and  of  the  glorious  deeds  of  valor  performed 
by  King  Ramses.  There  were  originally  two  large 
obehsks  here  in  front  of  the  temple,  but  one  of  them 
was  taken  to  Paris  a  number  of  years  ago. " 

"Yes,  I  saw  it  there,"  remarked  one  of  the  -psiTty, 
"but  the  inscriptions  on  the  one  at  Paris  looked  worn 
and  weather-beaten;  while  those  on  this  obehsk  are 
almost  as  distinct  as  when  they  were  cut  in  the  pink 
granite  three  thousand  years  ago." 

On  the  morning  of  March  fifteenth,  after  an  early 
breakfast,  we  started  at  seven  o'clock  to  visit  the 
Tombs  of  the  Kings  and  the  temples  on  the  west  side 
of  the  Nile, — ^the  village  of  Luxor  and  the  temples  of 
Luxor  and  Karnak  being  on  the  east  side.  Crossing 
the  river  in  ferry  boats  propelled  by  sails  and  oars,  the 
tourists  found  donkeys,  boys,  chair-men,  lunch  carriers, 
guides,  and  extra  men  crowding  the  western  shore. 
We  had  hardly  landed  when  the  donkey  boys  surrounded 
us,  gesticulating,  shouting  the  merits  of  themselves 
and  their  beasts,  and  pleading  that  their  donkeys  might 
be  selected.  Much  to  my  surprise,  Abda,  the  offended 
and  angry  boy  of  the  Karnak  ride,  pushed  his  way  to 
my  side  with  Alice  Lovell  and  smilingly  claimed  me  as 
his  friend  and  benefactor,  with  the  familiar  tale :  ' '  Ahce 
Lovell  a  good  donkey;  Abda  a  good  donkey  boy,"  so 
our  relations  were  renewed. 

The  ladies  decided  that  the  men's  saddles  would  be 
more  comfortable  for  a  long  ride,  and  that  there  would 
be  less  danger  of  the  saddle  turning;  so  side  saddles 
were  generally  dispensed  with  and  most  of  the  women 
mounted   astride.     From  the   landing   we  rode  slowly 


BESIDE    ONE   OF   THESE    IS    A    SMALL    FIGURE   OF    THE    QUEEN. 


(313) 


314  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

over  a  long  stretch  of  loose  sand,  tiresome  to  the  donkeys, 
and  then  along  a  good  path  on  the  embankment  of  an 
irrigating  ditch.  The  sun  was  sending  down  hot  rays 
by  the  time  we  reached  our  first  halting  place,  the  Temple 
of  Kurna,  and  we  were  glad  to  dismount  and  seek  shelter 
and  rest  in  the  shade  of  the  great  walls  while  we  ex- 
amined the  beautifully  executed  reliefs  and  inscriptions. 

In  the  treasure  chamber  of  the  temple,  Mahmoud  re- 
lated the  story  of  the  architect  who  built  the  chamber 
for  King  Seti.  "This  rascal  of  an  architect,"  said 
Mahmoud,  "left  one  stone  loose  so  that  he  could  secretly 
remove  it  and  enter  the  chamber  to  steal.  The  robber 
was  caught  in  the  act  of  carrying  off  the  treasure  and 
fittingly  punished  as  you  may  see  represented  in  the 
reliefs  on  the  walls.  This  man  pictured  here  in  disgrace 
and  chains  as  a  warning  to  ill-doers  was  the  first  thief  in 
Egypt,  but  I  am  sorry  to  say  he  was  not  the  last. " 

After  leaving  the  Temple  of  Kurna,  which  is  situated 
near  the  cliffs  that  bound  the  Nile  valley,  our  procession 
entered  a  narrow  ravine  through  which  the  path  leads  to 
the  Tombs  of  the  Kings.  Here  we  met  another  large 
party  of  Americans  and  we  all  rode  together  for  some 
distance,  one  of  the  tourists  meeting  a  friend  whom 
she  had  not  seen  for  seven  years.  We  passed  two 
Englishmen  with  their  guide,  who  moved  off  the  path 
and  gazed  through  their  eye-glasses  in  mild  astonish- 
ment at  our  animated  cavalcade  in  varied  costumes; 
while  we  in  turn  looked  at  their  immaculate  sporting 
outfits  and  thought  how  lonely  the  couple  must  be, 
traveUng  through  these  dismal  solitudes.  Our  party 
had  not   thought   it   worth   while  to   purchase  special 


(315) 


3i6  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

riding  outfits  for  the  few  days  in  the  desert,  but  had 
utilized  what  they  had.  For  protection  from  the  sun 
some  used  white  helmets  or  cloth  neck  protectors,  some 
covered  their  heads  and  necks  with  veils  or  tied  down 
their  soft  hats,  others  wore  straw  hats  or  caps  regardless 
of  sunburn. 

Overhead  was  an  unclouded  sky;  at  each  side  rose 
yellow  limestone  cliffs  glaring  in  the  noonday  sun,  and 
underneath  white  sand  and  limestone  chips  reflected  the 
burning  rays.  Not  a  sign  of  vegetation  relieved  the  eye 
in  this  waterless  gorge  during  our  one  hour's  ride  from 
Kurna  to  the  Tombs. 

"Backsheesh!  backsheesh!"  demanded  the  donkey 
boys,  as  we  dismounted. 

"Why  do  you  want  backsheesh  now?" 

"Boy  don't  want  backsheesh,  donkey  want  back- 
sheesh, donkey  eat  hay  while  man  in  tombs.  " 

In  order  that  the  Tombs  may  be  satisfactorily  ex- 
amined by  visitors,  the  government  has  built  an  electric 
light  plant  in  the  gorge  and  the  thirty-five  tombs  are 
illuminated  by  electricity.  Our  party  entered  and 
examined  the  six  of  these  tombs  which  are  considered 
the  most  interesting.  At  each  of  these  an  Egyptian 
guard  politely  scrutinized  the  "Services  des  Antiquites," 
although  it  was  printed  in  French  that  he  could  not 
read,  and  then  permitted  the  holder  to  enter. 

In  Tomb  No.  17,  we  descended  a  passage  hewn  in  the 
limestone  cliff,  about  ten  feet  wide,  ten  feet  in  height, 
and  three  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in  length,  which  leads 
inward  and  downward  by  inclines  and  steps  to  the  rest- 
ing-place of  King  Seti,  a  tomb  prepared  during  his  life 


STOOD    IN    THE    COLONNADE    AT    MEDINET    HABU. 


(317) 


3i8 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT, 


to  be  the  receptacle  for  his  mummified  remains  after 
death.  The  smooth  poUshed  walls  and  ceilings  of  the 
corridors  and  chambers  were  sculptured  by  the  best 
artists  of  Seti's  time  with  reliefs  of  great  beauty,  repre- 
senting scenes  of  a  sacred  character.     The  praising  of  the 


i 


I 


-<t 


AT    THE    TOMBS    OF    THE    KING. 


great  God  Ammon-Re,  the  offering  of  incense  and  gifts 
to  various  deities,  the  passage  of  the  boat  of  the  sun, 
the  punishments  in  the  underworld,  the  sacred  sun- 
disk,  animal-headed  gods,  patron  goddesses,  fierce 
demons,  sacred  animals,  winged  serpents,  flying  spirits, 


LUXOR  AND  KARNAK.  319 

evil  genii,  coiled  snakes,  and  creeping  scarabs  are  por- 
trayed repeatedly. 

Mahmoud  explained  the  pictures  and  inscriptions  as 
we  slowly  went  forward,  stopping  frequently  to  inspect 
more  closely  those  of  greater  interest. 

"After  Seti's  death,"  said  Mahmoud,  as  we  stood  in 
the  chamber  of  the  tomb,  brilliantly  lighted  by  the 
electric  bulbs,  "his  body  was  embalmed  and  with  great 
pomp  and  ceremony  the  mummy  was  carried  from  the 
palace  in  the  great  city  of  Thebes  through  the  dismal 
gorge  and  deposited  in  a  magnificent  alabaster  sar- 
cophagus that  had  been  prepared  for  its  reception  in  this 
chamber  in  the  limestone  rock  ninety  feet  below  the 
surface  of  the  ground.  Then  the  tomb  was  closed  and 
sealed  so  that  the  body  of  the  king  might  remain  in 
peace  until  it  should  be  called  forth  at  the  end  of  time 
to  undergo  trial  before  the  god  Osiris. 

"For  hundreds  of  years,  the  mummy  lay  tranquilly 
in  its  sealed  tomb  ;  then  the  seals  were  rudely  broken  and 
the  tomb  was  despoiled  by  robbers  who  washed  to 
obtain  the  valuables  deposited  with  the  body.  When 
this  despoliation  was  discovered,  the  rulers  of  the  Empire 
removed  Seti's  mummy  and  the  mummies  of  other 
kings  to  a  tomb  near  the  Temple  of  Der-el-bahri  which 
could  be  more  closely  guarded.  There  the  mummies 
remained  until  the  year  1881,  when  they  were  taken 
away  to  the  Museum  at  Cairo." 

"And  now,"  said  one  of  the  visitors,  as  the  guide 
concluded,  "after  thirty  centuries  of  repose,  the  proud 
features  of  this  oppressor  of  the  Israelites,  little  the 
worse  for  the  lapse  of  time,  are  exposed  in  the  great 


3  20  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

hall  of  the  National  Museum  in  Cairo  to  the  gaze  of  the 
rude  multitude  from  whom  he  desired  to  be  hidden,  and 
his  alabaster  sarcophagus  is  admired  by  visitors  in  the 
Soane  Museum  of  London." 

Almost  all  the  articles  of  value  in  the  Tombs  that  the 
robbers  did  not  succeed  in  carrying  away,  as  well  as  the 
mummies  and  sarcophagi,  have  been  removed  to 
museums  in  the  large  cities,  the  most  valuable  being 
retained  for  the  Museum  in  Cairo.  In  the  tomb  of 
Amenophis  II,  however,  the  mummy  of  the  king  in  a 
decorated  coffin  remains  for  the  inspection  of  visitors. 
Above  the  head  of  this  ruler  of  the  ancient  empire,  a 
modern  electric  bulb  hangs,  illuminating  the  rugged 
features  and  showing  every  detail  of  high  nose,  sunken 
cheeks,  and  straggling  hair  on  the  head  and  chin.  The 
tombs  of  Ramses  III,  Ramses  IV,  and  Ramses  IX  were 
interesting  each  in  its  own  way.  That  of  Ramses  III 
had,  in  addition  to  the  sacred  scenes,  pictures  of  agricul- 
tural and  family  life;  plowing,  sowing,  reaping,  baking, 
slaughtering,  and  cooking. 

"Shall  we  return  through  the  gorge  or  take  the 
shorter  path  over  the  cliffs  and  obtain  a  view  of  the  Nile 
valley?"  inquired  the  dragoman. 

Some,  dreading  the  exertion  under  a  broiling  sun, 
chose  the  level  road  on  a  donkey's  back.  Others,  intent 
on  obtaining  the  view,  started  to  climb  the  zigzag  path 
regardless  of  the  glare  of  the  sun,  the  donkey  boys 
following  with  the  donkeys.  The  view  from  the  summit 
amply  repaid  us  for  the  climb.  On  one  side  we  looked 
down  into  the  desolate  valley  of  the  Tombs.  On  the 
other  we  saw  the  rich  green  valley  of  the  Nile,  with  groups 


(32i) 


322 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


of  palms,  villages,  and  temples.  Directly  below  at  the 
foot  of  the  yellow  cliff,  and  in  strong  contrast  to  it,  was 
the  white  marble  temple  of  Der-al-bahri.  And  not  far 
from  the  temple  was  a  cottage,  which  at  once  became 
interesting  to  the  tired  party  when  the  guide,  pointing 
to  it,  said:     "That  is  the  rest-house.     A  good  luncheon 

will  be  ready  on  the 
tables  when  you  arrive 
there. " 

We  had  been  riding 
on  a  very  narrow  trail 
along  the  edge  of  a 
precipice,  but  now  we 
dismounted  and  de- 
scended, on  foot,  a 
winding  path,  too  steep 
and  dangerous  for  riding, 
that  led  us  to  the  rest- 
house  in  the  valley  be- 
low. Here,  at  the 
Chalet  Hatasu,  as  it  was 
named,  the  servants  had 
unpacked  the  hampers 
which  they  had  brought 
from  the  hotel  at  Luxor,  and  the  hungry  travelers 
were  soon  seated  around  well-spread  tables.  During 
the  meal  a  throng  of  scantily  clad  men,  boys,  and 
small  children  assembled  outside  the  Chalet.  These 
bare-footed  Arabs  offered  for  sale  scarabs,  stone  mummy 
images,  mummified  feet,  skulls,  beads,  and  trinkets  so 
clamorously  and  persistently  that  our  dragoman  had  to 


POSED    TO    BE    KODAKED. 


(323) 


324 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


use  his  long  lashed  whip  to  clear  the  way.  After  leav- 
ing the  chalet,  naked  boys,  apparently  from  four  to  ten 
years  of  age,  followed  us  with  outstretched  hands,  beg- 


TWO    WEATHER-WORN    FIGURES    OF    PRODIGIOUS    SIZE 

ging  for  backsheesh.     Some  of  these  boys  earned  money 
by  posing  to  be  kodaked. 

■.The  walls  and  columns  of  the  Ramesseum,  the 
magnificent  temple  built  by  Ramses  II,  and  those  of 
Medinet  Habu,  the  great  temple  built  by  Ramses  III, 
were  covered  with  pictures  in  relief,  made  in  the  golden 
days  of  Theban  prosperity. 


LUXOR  AND  KARNAK.  325 

"The  ancient  artists,  to  perpetuate  their  work,  used 
chisels  on  lasting  stone  instead  of  brushes  on  perishable 
canvas,"  remarked  the  professor  as  we  examined  the 
reliefs,  "and  their  pictures  carved  on  the  stone  walls 
have  endured  through  centuries." 

We  saw  battle  scenes  with  the  king  leading  in  the  fray, 
archers  discharging  arrows,  charioteers  riding  down  the 
foe,  and  enemies  fleeing  in  dismay ;  triumphal  marches 
with  the  king  borne  aloft  on  a  canopied  litter,  fan- 
bearers  waving  fans,  musicians  blowing  trumpets  and 
beating  drums,  courtiers  bearing  standards,  and  captives 
led  in  chains ;  festal  processions  with  the  king  marching 
in  front,  the  sacred  white  bull  festooned  with  wreaths, 
maidens  carrying  flowers,  and  priests  bearing  images; 
and  nations  paying  tribute  to  the  king  upon  his  throne, 
Nubians  bringing  leopard  skins,  giraffes,  and  grinning 
apes,  and  princes  presenting  gems,  costly  vases,  and 
golden  shields.  One  picture  at  Medinet  Habu  repre- 
sented the  soldiers  cutting  off  the  right  hands  of  their 
enemies  who  had  been  slain  in  battle  and  bringing  these 
gruesome  emblems  of  the  dead  to  the  secretaries  to  be 
counted  and  recorded.  The  secretaries  had  counted 
and  recorded  twelve  thousand  five  hundred  and  thirty- 
five  hands.  To  enumerate  the  many  interesting  scenes 
sculptured  on  the  temple  walls  would  be  like  cataloguing 
a  picture  gallery. 

At  the  Ramesseum,  the  enormous  Colossus  of  Ramses 
lay  broken  on  the  ground,  overthrown  by  some  mighty 
force. 

"This  huge  granite  figure,"  said  Mahmoud,  "was, 
before  its  fall,  the  largest  statue  ever  carved  out  of  one 


3  26  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

block  of  stone.  Its  height  was  nearly  sixty  feet,  the 
fingers  three  feet  long,  and  its  weight  has  been  estimated 
at  one  thousand  tons." 

The  Colossi  of  Memnon,  the  two  enormous  seated 
figures  in  the  midst  of  level  cultivated  fields,  were 
passed  and  photographed  as  we  returned  to  Luxor. 
Their  hugeness  may  be  judged  by  comparing  their  size 
with  the  height  of  the  tourists  alongside  in  the  illustra- 
tion. 

"During  the  weeks  of  inundation  each  year,"  said 
Mahmoud,  after  he  had  told  us  the  dimensions  of  the 
statues  and  the  mythical  stories  associated  with  them, 
"these  grain  fields  as  far  as  the  vegetation  extends  are 
covered  with  water  to  a  depth  of  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet. 
When  the  Nile  is  at  its  height  the  heads  of  the  great 
Colossi,  surrounded  by  water,  rise  forty  feet  above  the 
flood." 

A  bath  and  a  thorough  brushing  of  clothes  at  the  hotel 
removed  the  desert  sand.  We  sipped  our  afternoon  tea 
in  the  shaded  garden  and  then  the  party  of  forty-two 
persons  boarded  the  Nile  steamer  Amasis  in  time  for 
an  evening  dinner  on  the  boat.  Suit  cases  and  satchels 
were  unpacked  and  the  staterooms  made  cozy,  for  the 
Amasis  was  to  be  the  tourists'  home  for  a  number  of 
days  during  the  trip  down  the  Nile. 


CHAPTER  XV. 
ON  THE  NILE. 

AT  daylight  on  Monday  morning,  March  sixteenth, 
the  Amasis  steamed  away  from  Luxor  and  by 
nine  o'clock  had  arrived  at  the  landing  for 
Dendera.  The  donkey  boys  of  Dendera,  having  been 
notified  of  our  coming,  were  waiting  with  their  donkeys. 
In  a  few  minutes  the  tourists  were  mounted  for  a  half 
hour's  ride  on  narrow  paths  through  green  barley  fields 
to  the  ruined  temple.  I  rode  on  a  donkey  named  Whis- 
key and  Soda,  with  my  donkey  boy  Hassan  running 
behind  prodding  the  animal  occasionally  with  a  sharp- 
pointed  stick,  and  yelling  "Haow!  Haow!"  to  urge 
Whiskey  and  Soda  to  a  more  rapid  gait.  Along  the  paths 
through  the  fields  many  children  ran  to  greet  us  with 
outstretched  palms.  Their  costumes  were  those  of  the 
Garden  of  Eden  before  the  fall ;  but  having  been  informed 
of  our  approach,  the  bronze  colored  youngsters  had  dec- 
orated themselves  for  the  occasion  with  wreaths  of  green 
barley  around  their  waists  and  crowns  of  the  same 
material  on  their  heads.  The  little  Arabs,  bright-eyed, 
smooth-limbed,  and  handsome  featured,  attractive  and 
picturesque  in  appearance,  shouted  with  glee  when  a 
few  small  coins  were  thrown  among  them. 

"Look  at  that!"   exclaimed  one  of  the  party.     "I 
have  heard  of  the  shepherds  carrying  the  lambs  on  their 

(327) 


3  28  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

shoulders,  but  here  is  a  man  coming  with  the  foal  of  a 
donkey  in  his  arms." 

"What  a  dear  little  pet,"  said  the  ladies  as  the  Arab 
passed  us  with  the  young  donkey  nestling  contentedly 
on  his  breast. 

"The  famous  Temple  of  Dendera  was  not  so  magnifi- 
cent nor  so  large  as  the  temples  of  Karnak  and  Thebes," 
said  the  guide,  as  we  stood  before  the  gates,  "but  it  was 
more  richly  decorated  with  carvings  and  paintings. 
Every  inch  of  column,  wall,  and  ceiling  was  carved  with 
hieroglyphic  and  pictorial  decorations.  These  were 
painted  in  bright  colors  which  are  yet  faintly  visible. 
This  structure  is  a  modern  one  compared  with  Karnak; 
for  Karnak  was  an  ancient  temple  more  than  one 
thousand  years  old  when  King  Ptolemy  began  the 
erection  of  this  building  just  before  the  Christian  Era. 
An  inscription  on  the  walls  states  that  the  time  required 
for  its  construction  was  one  hundred  and  eight  years, 
six  months,  and  fourteen  days.  When  Egypt  became  a 
Roman  province  after  the  death  of  Cleopatra,  the  Roman 
emperors  continued  the  construction  of  the  unfinished 
temple.  Augustus,  Tiberius,  Caligula,  Claudius,  and 
Nero  are  represented  in  reliefs  on  the  walls.  The  temple 
was  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  the  Goddess  Hathor, 
the  Egyptian  Venus,  or  goddess  of  love  and  beauty." 

"Why  was  the  temple  built  here  two  miles  away  from 
the  river,  instead  of  near  the  banks  of  the  Nile?"  in- 
quired a  tourist. 

"It  was  because  this  terrace  is  higher  than  the  valley," 
answered  Mahmoud.  "Remember  that  these  green 
fields  through  which  we  rode  are  made  fertile  by  the 


'-T     I  nc 


UNIVERSITY 

OF 


(329) 


330  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

overflow  of  the  Nile;  then  I  think  that  the  reason  for 
building  on  this  plateau  will  be  plain  to  you." 
"But  why  was  it  built  in  a  depression?" 
"  It  was  not  originally  in  a  hole,  "  explained  the  guide, 
"but  was  built  on  level  ground.  Some  sixteen  hundred 
years  ago  the  Christian  Roman  Emperor  Theodosius 
forbade  the  worship  of  idols.  After  that  time,  the 
worship  of  the  goddess  Hathor  being  discontinued,  the 
temple  was  neglected  and  a  village  of  mud  huts  sprang 
up  around  it.  These  huts,  built  of  sun-dried  bricks, 
crumbled  to  dust  in  the  passage  of  years  and  were 
trampled  under  foot.  Again  and  again  new  huts 
supplanted  the  old  until  in  the  course  of  centuries  the 
debris  accumulated  many  feet  in  depth.  When  the 
government,  fifty  years  ago,  undertook  to  restore  the 
temple,  the  workmen  had  to  begin  by  shoveling  mud 
huts  off  the  roof. " 

We  descended  a  long  flight  of  steps  to  reach  the  level 
of  the  floor  of  the  excavated  temple,  and  passing  the  blue- 
uniformed  guards  entered  the  grand  hall  of  columns. 
The  hall,  as  the  guide  had  told  us,  was  richly  decorated. 
Master  sculptors  had  carved  every  available  space  on 
the  walls  and  columns  with  hieroglyphic  inscriptions 
and  beautiful  reliefs;  master  artists  in  color  had  heigh- 
tened the  effect  with  tint  and  shade.  Looking  up  we 
saw,  pictured  on  the  ceiling,  the  Egyptian  deity.  Nut, 
the  goddess  of  the  sky,  controlling  the  movements  of  sun 
and  stars ;  the  rays  of  the  sun  shining  in  blessing  on  the 
head  of  Hathor;  the  moon  issuing  from  Nut's  mouth; 
the  signs  of  the  Zodiac;  the  flying  Hours  of  day  and 
night ;  and  the  sailing  boats  of  the  planets. 


RICHLY    DKCORATED    WITH    CARVINGS    AN'I>    I'Al  NTl  NCiS. 


(33^) 


33^ 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


The  guide  raised  a  stone  trap  door  less  than  two  feet 
square  in  the  stone  floor  and  through  this  small  entrance 
we  squeezed,  candle  in  hand,  and  descended  a  stone 
stairway  to  explore  the  dark  crypt  underneath.  Al- 
though the  ladies 
screamed  when  the 
bats,  disturbed  and 
blinded  by  the 
light,  flew  wildly 
overhead,  they 
bravely  followed 
the  guide.  The 
long  passage  was 
but  three  feet  in 
width  and  we  won- 
dered  why  the 
dragoman  had 
brought  us  down 
into  its  close  and 
gloomy  recesses; 
but  when  magne- 
sium wires  were  lit, 
our  wonder  turned 
into  admiration, 
for  the  sputtering 
white  light  re- 
vealed on  the  smooth  sidewalls  most  beautiful  reliefs  in 
well  preserved  coloring. 

"Did  you  see  anything  remarkable  in  that  dark 
cellar?"  inquired  a  voice  from  above  as  we  ascended 
through  the  trap. 


OFFERED    INCENSE    TO    THE    GODS. 


ON  THE  NILE. 


333 


"Why  didn't  you  come  along?"  was  the  laughing 
response. 

"I've  not  trained  down  to  the  proper  size  yet," 
rejoined  the  fat  man  who  could  be  jolly  on  all  occasions. 


ENTERED   THE   GRAND    HALL   OF    COLUMNS. 


"Do  you  think  that  a  man  of  my  size  could  squeeze 
through  a  hole  like  that?" 

By  a  long  stone  stairway  of  easy  steps  we  ascended 
leisurely  to  the  roof,  stopping  frequently  to  admire  the 
ceremonial  procession  of  priests  pictured  on  the  walls 
of  the  staircase.     From  the  flat  stone  roof  we  saw  on 


334  ^  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

one  side  the  green  cultivated  fields  extending  to  the 
river's  edge  and  on  the  other  side  the  yellow  desert 
stretching  to  the  distant  cliffs. 

"This  is  a  picture  of  Cleopatra  and  her  son  Csesarion,  " 
said  Mahmoud,  as  we  inspected  the  reliefs  on  the  outer 
walls,  "and  this  is  King  Ptolemy  offering  incense  to  the 
gods  Osiris  and  Isis,  and  hawk-headed  Horus  their  son. 
Here  also  is  Hathor's  picture  repeated  many  times." 

The  trip  down  the  river  Nile  on  the  fine  steamer 
Amasis,  which  had  been  chartered  for  us,  was  thoroughly 
enjoyed  by  the  forty-two  people  who  made  up  the  party. 
The  staterooms  were  bright  and  clean  and  the  meals 
served  were  equal  to  those  of  a  first  class  hotel.  The 
captain  and  his  officials  did  all  they  could  to  make  the 
trip  pleasant  for  us.  Life  on  board  was  a  life  of  ease; 
the  air  though  warm  was  balmy  and  restful,  and  cares 
were  forgotten.  The  centre  of  the  upper  deck  was 
roofed  over  but  open  at  the  sides  with  rugs  on  the 
floor,  easy  chairs,  small  tables,  and  a  piano.  In  this 
open  piazza-parlor  we  sipped  the  coffee  that  was  served 
to  us  there  after  luncheon  and  after  dinner.  There,  too, 
we  partook  of  the  tea  and  cakes  that  were  handed  around 
at  four  o'clock,  and  when  we  returned  from  excursions 
on  shore,  tired  and  warm,  we  found  refreshing  lemonade 
ready  to  quench  our  thirst. 

Our  dragoman,  Mahmoud  Achmed,  the  Egyptian 
conductor  of  all  our  sight-seeing  excursions  on  land, 
was  an  interesting  character  and  became  a  great  favorite. 
He  was  a  native  of  Luxor  and  while  we  were  at  that 
place  his  bright-eyed  little  girl,  neatly  dressed,  came  to 
meet  us.     Mahmoud  had  a  fund  of  information  regard- 


ON  THE  NILE. 


335 


ing  the  history  of  the  country,  the  legends  of  the  gods, 
and  the  fabulous  deeds  of  the  ancient  kings.  He  had  a 
most  interesting  way  of  interspersing  history  with 
mythical  tales  and  humorous  incidents,  and  so  kept  the 
party  in  high  spirits.  Mahmoud  was  noted,  too,  for  his 
ability  to  answer  intelligently  all  reasonable  inquiries 


RELIEFS  ON   THE  OUTER   WALL. 

and  for  his  great  patience  in  replying  to  many  questions, 
that  must  have  appeared  to  him  very  silly.  Each  day 
on  the  boat  while  we  were  all  seated  at  dinner,  Mahmoud 
came  into  the  dining  saloon  and  announced  the  program 
for  the  following  days,  always  beginning:  "Ladies  and 
gentlemen,  if  you  please,"  and  closing  with,   "Monu- 


336  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

ment  tickets  are  very  much  wanted.  Galloping  donkeys 
is  not  allowed." 

For  some  one  to  mislay  or  forget  a  permit  was  a  daily 
occurrence  and  the  caution  had  to  be  repeated  often. 
As  to  the  donkeys,  the  riders  paid  no  attention  to  the 
restriction,  but  walked,  trotted,  or  galloped  the  donkeys 
as  they  felt  inclined. 

During  the  daytime  Mahmoud  wore  a  plain  gown 
suitable  for  traveling  on  shore  in  heat  and  dust,  but  in 
the  evenings  he  was  resplendent  in  robes  of  silk.  One 
night,  at  the  request  of  one  of  the  ladies,  he  brought  to 
the  mid-deck  five  handsome  silk  gowns  to  be  inspected 
by  the  tourists.  He  also  brought  his  book  of  references 
written  by  people  whom  he  had  conducted.  In  this  we 
read  the  dignified  prose  of  preacher  and  college  presi- 
dent, the  practical  remarks  of  business  men,  and  the 
nonsensical  lines  of  the  rhymster.  One  of  his  feminine 
admirers,  seemingly  impressed  by  the  dragoman's  silk 
robes,  polite  attention,  and  general  good  humor,  had 
left  the  following  jingle  on  the  record : 

Who  guided  us  all  about  the  show, 
Whether  we  wanted  to  go  or  no, 
And  always  pleased  and  made  us  go? 

Mahmoud. 
Who  whipped  the  donkey  when  he  fell 
And  then  the  donTcey  boy  as  well, 
And  dressed  himself  a  howling  swell? 

Mahmoud. 
Who  sat  so  sweetly  at  my  feet 
With  red  tarbouche  and  slippers  neat 
And  stirred  my  heart  with  many  a  beat  ? 

Mahmoud. 


(337) 


338  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

And  now,  when  all  thi.  trip  is  done 
Rides  to  temples,  and  tombs,  and  fun, 
We  may  forget  them  all  save  one, 

Mahmoud. 

Mahmond  took  great  pride  in  showing  his  many 
references  in  prose  and  rhyme,  and  the  members  of  our 
party  were  glad  to  contribute  in  prose  to  his  collection. 
But  at  the  end  of  the  week  we  presented  him  with 
another  testimonial  of  a  more  practical  kind. 

"The  Nile  is  a  most  wonderful  river, "  remarked  the 
professor  one  evening  as  we  sat  on  the  open  deck  watch- 
ing the  moonlight  glisten  on  the  green  water.  "Several 
other  rivers  rival  it  in  length;  the  Congo  is  noted  for  its 
size;  the  Amazon,  swelled  by  great  tributaries,  dis- 
charges a  volume  of  water  immensely  greater;  and 
the  Missouri,  including  the  Mississippi  to  the  Gulf, 
may  be  longer;  but  the  Nile  is  unique  in  that  for  twelve 
hundred  miles  it  flows  without  a  tributary  through  a 
rainless  region.  Not  a  drop  of  rain  nor  a  single  brook 
adds  to  its  volume  in  all  that  distance,  and  a  hot  sun, 
canals,  ditches,  sakiyehs,  shadoofs,  and  water  carriers 
are  continually  taking  away  from  it  throughout  every 
mile  of  its  winding  course.  The  river  is  wider  here  but 
it  has  less  volume  than  one  thousand  miles  farther  up 
the  stream.  It  is  unique  also  in  the  regularity  of  the 
annual  inundations,  which  begin  on  almost  the  same  day, 
continue  the  same  length  of  time,  and  rise  to  an  almost 
similar  height  each  year,  and  have  done  so  annually  for 
untold  centuries.  In  our  land  a  flood  is  a  disaster  caus- 
ing loss  and  sorrow;  in  this  country  it  is  a  blessing  pro- 
ducing wealth  and  joy.     When  the  slowly  rising  waters 


ON  THE  NILE. 


339 


each  year  reach  the  figures  on  the  stone  column  of  the 
Nilometer  which  show  that  the  Nile  has  spread  abroad 
his  fertile  bounty  by  covering  the  cultivable  lands,  and 
has  filled  the  dams  and  ditches  for  future  needs,  the 


TWAS    SCENES    LIKE    THESE    WE    I.OOKKI)    ll'OX. 

news    is    spread    abroad    and    the    people    rejoice   with 
festivities  and  processions." 

Before  taking  the  trip  on  the  Nile  we  had  thought  that 
the  days  on  the  river  might  become  monotonous  and 
tiresome;  but  we  found,  on  the  contrary,  that  ever\' 
hour  was  full  of  interest.  Each  day  some  excursion  on 
shore  was  taken.     One  day  the  patient  donkeys  carried 


340 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


the  tourists  on  a  long  trip  to  the  ruins  of  the  great 
temple  of  Seti  at  Abydos  to  view  its  sculptured  columns 
and  famous  list  of  kings.  On  another  day  carriages 
conveyed  us  to  the  rock  tombs  on  the  limestone  hills 
above  Assiout  and  we  visited  the  bazaars  and  the  noted 
potteries  of  that  busy  town.     On  the  last  day  of  our 


TROD    ROUND    AND    ROUND    THE    WHEEL. 


sail  the  donkeys  of  Bedrashen  were  called  into  service 
for  a  ride  through  the  palm  forest  and  green  fields,  past 
the  fallen  columns  of  Ramses,  to  Sakkara,  the  tombs 
of  the  sacred  bulls,  and  the  pictured  tombs  of  Ptahhotep 
and  Ti. 


(341) 


342 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


"This  is  the  height  of  enjoyment,"  said  a  member 
of  our  party  one  day  while  we  were  lounging  in  easy  chairs 
taking  afternoon  tea  on  the  deck,  and  lazily  watching 


DOTTED    WITH    PILES    OF    YELLOW    WATER-JARS. 


the  panoramic  scenes  as  the  Amasis  steamed  down  the 
river. 

It  was  scenes  like  these  we  looked  upon.  Along  the 
banks  of  the  river  at  short  intervals,  the  shadoof  man, 
or  drawer  of  water,  w4th  his  shadoof  resembling  an 
old-fashioned  spring-pole   or  well  sweep,   drew  up   his 


ON  THE  NILE.  343 

dripping  bucket  and  lowered  it  again,  his  only  garment 
an  apron  at  the  waist. 

All  through  the  day  the  red-brown  man 
Stands  on  his  perch  in  the  red-brown  bank; 
Waters  never  more  gratefully  ran, 
Cucumbers  never  more  greedily  drank. 

— Canon  Rawnsley. 

Where  the  bank  was  very  high,  a  series  of  two,  three, 
or  four  natives,  each  with  his  spring-pole,  raised  the 
water  one  to  the  other  until  it  reached  the  top  and  was 
poured  into  the  little  channels  that  carried  it  over  the 
rich,  but  very  thirsty  soil  of  a  rainless  land.  On  the 
river-bank,  also,  interspersed  with  the  shadoofs  of  the 
poorer  class  of  agriculturists,  the  more  prosperous 
farmers,  who  were  the  happy  possessors  of  buffaloes  or 
camels,  lifted  the  irrigating  water  from  the  stream  by 
means  of  sakiyehs,  or  wooden  power  wheels,  which 
creaked  unceasingly  as  the  patient  camels  or  buffaloes, 
with  eyes  covered  by  blinders  of  mud,  trod  round  and 
round  the  wheel. 

Rough  clout  upon  his  patient  head, 

The  stately  camel  round  doth  go, 

With  gentle  hesitating  tread ; 

And  yoked,  and  blind  with  frontlets,  made 

Of  black  Nile  mud,  the  buffalo 

Plies  with  him  his  unequal  trade. 

— Canon  Rawnsley. 

A  large  Dahabeahwith  rugs,  easy  chairs,  and  piano  on 
deck,  and  the  stars  and  stripes  hanging  listlessly  over- 
head, floated  by,  propelled  by  fourteen  Arab  rowers — 
there  being  no  wind  to  fill  the  sails.     A  drove  of  gray 


344  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

buffaloes,  forty  in  number,  were  taking  their  bath, 
splashing  the  water  like  a  party  of  schoolboys  in  a 
swimming  pool.  A  group  of  women  filled  earthen  jars 
at  the  water's  edge,  and  with  the  dripping  jars  on  their 
heads  mounted  the  steep  river  bank.  Here  and  there 
were  irregular  groups  of  mud  huts,  intersected  by 
crooked  alleys  and  surrounded  by  date  palms,  little 
villages  where  doves  were  flying  overhead  and  from 
which  came  the  sound  of  barking  dogs  to  mingle  with 
the  puffs  of  the  steamer.  Flat-bottomed  boats  freighted 
with  sugar  cane  lay  with  drooping  sails  in  a  noonday 
calm,  or,  later  in  the  day,  sped  before  the  evening  breeze. 
Near  the  pottery  towns  the  river  banks  were  dotted 
with  yellow  water  jars  in  scattered  piles  ready  for  ship- 
ment to  the  city  market.  Immense  stacks  of  the  sugar- 
cane just  harvested  had  been  brought  to  the  shore  for 
conveyance  to  the  sugar  factories.  And  fields  of  cotton 
covered  with  w^iite  bloom  extended  into  the  distance. 

We  could  see,  too,  the  fertile  Nile  valley,  not  more  than 
ten  miles  in  breadth  at  its  widest  part,  bounded  on 
both  sides  by  ranges  of  yellow,  barren  cliffs.  On  the 
western  side  the  cliffs  were  farthest  away;  on  the 
eastern  side  the  valley  was  narrow,  and  the  cliffs  were 
sometimes  distant,  sometimes  so  near  that  they  com- 
pletely crowded  out  the  cultivable  soil  and  approached 
to  the  water's  edge. 

"There  is  something  peculiar  in  the  air  of  this  dry 
land,"  observed  one  of  the  tourists  after  sitting  quiet 
awhile.  "The  atmosphere  lends  a  softness  to  the  out- 
lines of  distant  objects  and  adds  delicate  tints  in  the 
afternoon  light.     See  how  the  barren  cliffs  are  glorified 


f    (345) 


346  .1   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

with  a  flush  of  pink,  the  wheat  fields  are  a  briUiant 
green,  and  the  barley  fields,  almost  ready  for  the  har- 
vest, are  golden.  Even  the  mud  huts  and  the  white- 
washed mosque  of  that  village  on  the  western  shore  have 
lost  their  crude  outlines  and  have  become  picturesque. 
At  sunset  the  western  sky  will  change  to  crimson  and 
the  eastern  cliffs  will  change  to  gold.  The  sunsets, 
though,  are  not  so  gorgeous  in  coloring,  nor  do  they 
show  such  striking  contras'ts  as  I  have  seen  occasionally 
in  my  western  home,  but  they  are  beautiful.  " 

During  the  latter  part  of  our  sail  down  the  Nile,  where 
the  river  broadened  and  was  shallow,  we  had  some 
interesting  experiences  with  sandbars. 

"This  is  the  Amasis'  last  trip  of  the  season, "  said  one 
of  the  officers  as  we  stood  on  the  upper  deck  at  the  bow 
of  the  steamer  watching  two  sailors  poling  below. 
"The  Nile  always  falls  rapidly  in  the  spring,  the  channels 
change,  new  sandbars  form,  and  navigation  becomes 
difficult.  The  water  is  now  very  low,  and  we  have 
to  be  careful  and  alert  wherever  the  river  broadens  as 
it  does  here  before  us. " 

On  account  of  the  indications  of  shallowness  ahead 
the  Amasis  was  steaming  very  slowly,  occasionally 
merely  drifting  with  the  current,  '  The  two  Arab  boat- 
men stationed  in  the  bow  continually  tested  the  depth 
of  the  water  with  poles  and  shouted  in  Arabic  the  results 
of  their  measurements  to  the  anxious  commander  on  the 
deck  above.  Notwithstanding  these  precautions,  our 
steamer  occasionally  scraped  on  the  sandbars,  sometimes 
sticking  on  them  for  a  short  time. 

"Sureh^    this    is    an    unluckv    dav,"    exclaimed    the 


ON  THE  NILE. 


347 


captain  later,  looking  at  his  watch  as  we  came  within 
sight  of  a  railroad  bridge  with  a  draw  in  it  that  was  then 
being  closed  for  an  approaching  train.  "It  is  now  four 
o'clock,  and,  according  to  the  official  rules,  that  draw- 
bridge is  closed  for  the  day  and  will  not  be  opened  for 
steamers  to  pass  through  until  nine  o'clock  to-morrow 


SHOVING    FROM    ITS    DECK    WITH    LONG    POLES. 

morning.  We  shall  have  to  anchor  here  until  that  time. 
That  last  stop  of  half  an  hour  on  the  sandbar  robs  us  of 
half  a  day's  time. " 

The  delay  at  the  bridge  was  provoking,  but  a  greater 
test  of  the  temper  of  the  officers  and  patience  of  the 


348  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT, 

passengers  was  to  come.  On  Friday  morning  while  at 
breakfast  we  felt  a  jar  that  caused  the  vessel  suddenly  to 
stop.  We  heard  an  unusual  pufifing  of  the  engine 
and  felt  vibrations  that  caused  the  steamer  to  tremble 
and  the  dishes  to  rattle. 

"What's  the  matter?  What's  the  trouble?"  cried 
several. 

"Struck  another  sandbar,"  laconically  remarked  the 
doctor  at  the  end  of  the  table.  "Eat  your  breakfast. 
We'll  be  off  in  a  few  minutes. " 

But  succeeding  events  proved  that  the  doctor  was  a 
false  prophet.  For  during  the  next  twenty  hours  the 
Amasis  lay  helpless  in  the  midst  of  the  stream,  notwith- 
standing all  the  attempts  of  the  officials  and  crew  to 
free  her  from  the  bar,  and  it  was  not  until  Saturday 
morning  that  their  efforts  were  crowned  with  success  and 
the  steamer  floated  free. 

However,  we  took  the  doctor's  advice  the  first  morn- 
ing and  finished  our  omelet  and  coffee.  Then  we  hurried 
to  the  deck  to  investigate  and  ask  numberless  questions 
of  the  worried  officials.  Our  baggage  had  been  packed 
in  anticipation  of  landing  before  noon  at  Cairo,  which 
was  but  sixty  miles  distant,  and  we  feared  that  a  delay 
might  interfere  with  our  plans  for  a  busy  afternoon  of 
sight -seeing  in  the  city. 

"'Misery  loves  company,'  says  an  old  proverb.  If 
that  is  true  we  should  be  happy,"  remarked  one  of  the 
tourists  as  we  gathered  on  the  deck  gazing  at  an  ani- 
mated scene.  "Look!  There  are  thirty  boats  in  the 
same  predicament  as  our  own." 

Within  sight  in  different  directions  on  the  wide  river 


(349) 


350  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT, 

lay  thirty  loaded  feluccas  stranded  on  the  bars,  and  in 
addition  to  these  were  sixty-five  others  not  aground. 
Alongside  of  one  laden  with  live  cattle  a  dozen  sailors 
were  in  the  shallow  water,  shouting  and  splashing, 
endeavoring  to  push  their  sloop  off  the  bar.  On  many 
of  the  stranded  sloops  the  sailors  were  transferring  parts 
of  their  cargoes  to  other  boats  which  were  not  aground. 
At  some  places  the  dark-hue  d  laborers  were  shoveling 
grain  from  a  stranded  felucca  into  a  lighter  one;  at 
others  they  were  carrying  unwieldy  bundles  of  sugar- 
cane from  one  deck  to  another.  Here  they  were  hand- 
ling, with  much  difficulty,  large  blocks  of  stone;  there 
throwing  yellow  water-jars  one  at  a  time,  passing  red- 
bricks  slowly,  or  shifting  stacks  of  green  clover  from 
deck  to  deck.  They  accompanied  the  work  of  disbur- 
dening the  vessels  with  strange  cries  and  chants  in  which 
the  name  of  Allah  noticeably  recurred,  occasionally 
stopping  to  test  the  result  of  their  labor  by  plunging 
into  the  water  and  pushing  the  felucca,  or  by  shoving 
from  its  deck  with  long  poles. 

One  of  the  officers  of  the  Amasis  with  some  sailors  in 
a  row-boat  carried  an  anchor  to  its  cable's  length  from 
the  steamer  and  dropped  it  in  the  water,  then  a  donkey- 
engine  on  deck  to  which  the  cable  was  attached  was 
started  and  the  steamer  shook  with  the  throbs  of  the 
engine  endeavoring  to  pull  it  off  the  bar  toward  the 
anchor.  Unsuccessful  in  tugging  the  steamer  in  that 
direction,  they  raised  the  anchor  into  the  row-boat 
and  took  it  to  other  locations  one  after  another ;  but  the ; 
engine  panted  and  throbbed  in  vain.  In  the  meantime 
the  captain  had  gone  to  a  village  on  the  shore,  had  hired 


(350 


352  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

sixty  natives,  and  brought  them  out  in  boats.  The 
Arabs,  dropping  off  their  long  blue  gowns,  and  arrayed 
only  in  loin  cloths,  jumped  into  the  water,  which  was 
not  over  three  feet  in  depth.  Then,  placing  their 
shoulders  against  the  steamer,  the  gang  of  naked  Arabs, 
chanting  in  unison  a  prayer  to  Allah  for  help  and  protec- 
tion, pushed,  or  pretended  to  push,  in  order  to  assist 
the  puffing  engine  in  its  task.  With  intermissions  for 
rest,  the  pushing,  the  throbbing,  and  the  chanting  of 
the  Arabic  song,  "Allah  il  Allah,  Allah  il  Allah,"  con- 
tinued during  the  remainder  of  the  day. 

There  was  so  much  of  interest  happening  around  them 
that  the  passengers  could  scarcely  take  time  to  eat  their 
meals,  and  their  disappointment  in  not  reaching  Cairo 
was  almost  forgotten. 

"This  has  been  to  me  one  of  the  most  interesting  days 
of  the  trip.  I  will  mark  it  with  a  red  letter,"  said  one 
of  our  party  in  the  evening.  "  I  do  not  regret  the  delay. 
I  would  not  have  missed  those  amusing  and  novel 
sights  for  anything." 

When  efforts  were  resumed  at  dawn  on  Saturday,  the 
Amasis  floated  free,  and  before  noon  we  arrived  at  Cairo. 
Our  joyous  trip  on  the  Nile,  with  its  pleasant  associations 
of  fellow  voyagers,  dragomen,  donkey  boys,  temples, 
tombs,  and  gallops  over  the  sand,  was  at  an  end. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 
NAPLES  AND  POMPEII. 

BY  noon  on  Sunday,  March  twenty-second,  the  va- 
rious parties  had  reassembled  as  one  large  family 
on  board  the  Moltke  in  the  harbor  of  Alexandria, 
and  shortly  afterward  they  saw  the  land  of  the  palms  dis- 
appear from  sight  below  the  horizon.  Friends  and 
acquaintances  who  had  chosen  different  excursions  on 
land  and  had  been  separated  for  some  time  had  many 
experiences  to  relate  to  one  another.  Some,  who  had 
taken  the  Damascus  trip,  gave  a  description  of  the  mag- 
nificent ruins  of  the  famous  temple  of  Baalbek  and  of  the 
enormous  size  of  the  granite  blocks  which  lay  scattered 
over  the  ground  at  that  place,  and  displayed  bargains  in 
hammered  brass  and  silken  rugs  which  they  had  secured 
in  the  bazaars  of  the  oldest  city  in  the  world.  Others, 
who  had  taken  a  sail  on  blue  Galilee  and  a  journey  on 
horseback  through  the  interior  of  Palestine,  told  of  the 
unexpected  luxuries  of  camp  life,  of  squalid  villages  and 
more  squalid  inhabitants,  of  bridgeless  streams  that  had 
to  be  forded,  of  Arab  camps  and  Bedouin  chiefs,  and  of 
towns,  mountains,  plains,  and  wells,  the  names  of  which 
were  familiar  to  the  student  of  the  Bible.  They  showed 
to  their  friends  albums  in  which  they  had  pressed  the 
flowers  gathered  in  villages  where  the  Savior  once 
strayed,  or  culled  in  fields  through  which  He  probably 
had  trod.     Some  who  had  taken    a  carriage  ride  to  the 

23 


354 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


Dead  Sea  and  the  River  Jordan  described  the  lonehness 
of  the  road  and  the  armed  Bedouin  protectors  who 
accompanied  them,  the  dilapidated  condition  of  Jericho, 
the  desolate  shores  and  bitter  salty  taste  of  the  Sea,  the 
muddy  banks  of  the  River  Jordan  and  a  row  on  the 
rapid  stream.     Their  souvenirs  were  vials   filled  with 


ON    THE   BANK   OF   THE   RH^ER   JORDAN. 

salt  water  from  the  Sea,  and  bottles  of  the  fresh,  but  not 
very  clear  water  from  Jordan's  stream. 

"The  only  place  where  we  were  treated  with  disre- 
spect during  our  trip  was  in  Hebron,"  said  one  of  a 
group  around  a  table  in  the  library.     "There  the  natives 


NAPLES  AND  POMPEII.  355 

were  an  ill-tempered  set.  They  scowled  as  if  resentful 
of  our  presence,  and  when  we  were  driving  away  some 
hoodlums  of  the  town  threw  chunks  of  mud  and  stone 
after  our  carriage. " 

"That  reminds  me,"  said  another,  "of  a  picture  I 
want  to  show  you.  On  the  landing  at  Esneh  up  the 
Nile  we  thought  that  our  clothes  would  be  torn  to  pieces 
by  the  natives,  but  not  through  ill-will.  The  donkey 
boys  were  so  eager  to  secure  our  custom  that  a  struggle 
ensued  in  which  donkey  boys,  donkeys,  and  tourists 
were  inextricably  mixed  until  the  dragoman  used  his 
whip.  My  brother  took  a  snap-shot  of  the  scene  just 
as  Achmet  raised  his  whip." 

Some  of  the  tourists  had  stayed  ten  days  in  Jerusalem, 
some  twelve  days  in  Cairo,  others  had  been  at  Philae 
and  the  Cataract  of  the  Nile.  Each  one  was  enthusias- 
tic over  his  trip  and  appeared  to  be  satisfied  with  the 
way  in  which  the  eighteen  days  in  Palestine  and  Egypt 
had  been  spent. 

Monday  dawned  cloudy  with  some  wind  and  rain,  and 
although  the  weather  was  not  stormy,  the  boat  had  that 
uneasy  motion  which  had  been  felt  once  before  on  the 
Mediterranean.  Many  of  the  tourists,  believing  pre- 
vention better  than  cure,  remained  in  their  staterooms, 
or,  snugly  wrapped,  reclined  in  their  steamer  chairs  on 
deck  and  had  luncheon  served  to  them  there,  fewer  than 
half  the  seats  at  the  dining  table  being  occupied. 

On  Tuesday,  however,  the  sea  was  as  smooth  as  a 
river.  The  "Captain's  Dinner,"  which  had  been  post- 
poned from  the  previous  day  on  account  of  the  weather, 
was  announced  for  the  evening,  and  the  dining  room 


356 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


was  handsomely  decorated  with  flags,  garlands  of  arti- 
ficial roses,  and  additional  lights  for  the  special  occasion. 
The  depression  of  Monday  was  forgotten  and  the 
tourists  were  in  a  happy  humor. 

At  the  dinner  the  Captain  made  a  neat  speech  referring 
to  the  pleasant   relations   during  the  voyage  and  the 


FILLED    VIALS    WITH    WATER    FROM    THE    DEAD    SEA. 

separation  which  was  shortly  to  take  place.  The 
judge,  in  behalf  of  the  passengers,  responded  in  a  jovial 
vein.  "Three  cheers  for  the  Captain"  were  given  with 
enthusiasm,  followed  by  "He's  a  jolly  good  fellow," 
heartily  sung.     Every  one  arose  as  the  orchestra  played 


NAPLES  AND  POMPEII.  357 

"America,"  and  later,  when  the  stars  and  stripes  were 
dropped  from  overhead,  all  rose  again  to  accompany 
the  orchestra  in  the  "Star  Spangled  Banner."  Then 
the  electric  lights  were  turned  out  and  while  we  sat  in 
darkness,  the  stewards  and  waiters,  dressed  in  fantastic 
costumes  of  various  nations,  entered  and  in  a  long 
procession  marched  around  the  room,  each  waiter  carry- 
ing aloft  an  illuminated  tower  of  ice-cream,  and  each 
steward  a  dish  of  bonbons.  When  the  bonbons,  con- 
taining whistles  and  fancy  caps,  were  opened,  the 
dignity  of  judge,  professor,  and  minister  was  laid  aside 
and  the  tourists  were  a  joyous,  noisy  crowd  of  children. 

While  we  were  at  dinner  the  promenade  deck  was 
cleared  of  chairs,  decorated  with  flags,  and  illuminated 
with  Chinese  lanterns  in  preparation  for  a  masked  ball 
which  was  to  be  the  crowning  and  closing  event  of  the 
day.  In  this  fancy-dress  carnival  many  of  the  pas- 
sengers appeared  dressed  in  fantastic  gowns  prepared 
during  the  day,  or  as  Orientals  in  costumes  that  had  been 
purchased  in  Eastern  cities. 

While  the  maskers  and  onlookers  were  enjoying  the 
music  and  sport,  the  Moltke  was  steaming  northward 
through  the  Strait  of  Messina.  On  the  right  shone  the 
lighthouses  of  Italy  and  the  lights  of  the  Italian  town 
of  Reggio ;  on  the  left  gleamed  the  flash-lights  of  Sicily 
and  long  rows  of  twinkles  revealed  the  location  of  the 
large  city  of  Messina. 

On  rising  Wednesday  morning  we  found  the  sea 
perfectly  smooth  with  scarcely  a  ripple  to  disturb  its 
blue  surface.  The  Moltke  was  speeding  through  the 
waters  with  an  almost  imperceptible  motion.     On  our 


358  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

left  was  the  island  of  Capri,  famous  for  its  blue  grotto, 
and  the  morning  sunlight  playing  on  its  rugged  shores, 
revealed  a  white  road  cut  in  the  rocky  cliffs,  zigzagging 
up  the  side  of  the  hill  from  the  village  at  the  base  to  the 
village  on  the  summit.  As  the  steamer  coasted  the 
Italian  shore,  we  saw  dimly  through  the  mist  the  bay 
and  town  of  Salerno,  then  picturesque  Sorrento  perched 
among  the  rocks,  and,  in  the  distance,  fog-crowned 
Mount  Vesuvius  with  a  thin  column  of  smoke  ascending 
from  the  crater,  and  many  towns  and  villages  at  its 
base.  Directly  ahead  of  us  were  the  bay  of  Naples  and 
the  city,  partialty  hidden  from  our  sight  by  a  fog.  Just 
before  reaching  the  quarantine  station  a  small  steamer 
crowded  with  passengers  emerged  from  the  fog  and 
crossed  the  course  of  the  Moltke,  narrowly  escaping  de- 
struction. 

The  Moltke  dropped  anchor  at  quarantine  and  a 
yellow  flag  was  run  to  the  top  of  the  mast  to  remain 
floating  there  until  the  Italian  physician  had  completed 
his  examination  and  was  convinced  that  there  were  not, 
and  had  not  been,  any  cases  of  plague,  cholera,  or  con- 
tagious disease  on  the  ship.  During  the  detention  at 
quarantine  a  large  mail  was  brought  on  board.  We 
crowded  eagerly  into  the  office  inquiring  for  letters. 
The  stewards,  not  taking  time  to  distribute  the  mail  in 
the  boxes,  called  out  the  addresses,  and  little  thought 
was  given  to  anything  else  until  letters  and  papers  were 
obtained  and  the  news  from  home  devoured. 

The  fog  soon  rolled  away  and  Naples,  beautifully 
situated  on  the  crescent -shaped  shores  of  the  bay,  was 
disclosed  to  view.   From  the  deck  of  the  steamer  we  saw  a 


THE    GREAT    DOORWAY    OF    THE    TEMPLE   OF    HORUS    AT    EDFU. 


(359) 


36o  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

picture  unsurpassed  in  color  and  composition  by  any 
previously  beheld,  excepting,  perhaps,  the  view  of 
Constantinople  from  the  Bosporus,  or  the  panorama 
of  Algiers  seen  from  the  sea ;  but  each  one  of  the  three 
pictures  was  unique  and  beyond  comparison.  But 
here,  as  at  Constantinople,  distance  lent  an  enchantment 
to  the  view ;  for  a  closer  inspection  after  landing  revealed 
on  the  white  and  yellow  and  pink  buildings  ravages  of 
time  and  unsightly  stains  of  smoke  and  grime  unnoticed 
from  the  bay. 

We  had  no  sooner  reached  the  street,  ready  for  sight- 
seeing, than  the  cabriolet  drivers  thronged  about, 
importuning  us  to  ride  in  the  low  open  carriages  that 
comfortably  carry  two  persons. 

"How  much  to  the  Cathedral?"  we  asked  one  of  the 
drivers,  using  an  expression  that  we  thought  the  Italian 
might  comprehend, 

"One  lira  the  course,  one  and  a  half  lire  the  hour," 
he  succeeded  in  getting  us  to  understand. 

"Only  ten  cents  each.  And  it's  fully  two  miles  to  the 
Cathedral!"  exclaimed  my  companion.  "But  we  have 
a  number  of  places  to  visit,"  he  added,  "and  it  will  be 
better  to  engage  the  cab  by  the  hour.  Show  him  your 
watch  and  make  a  note  of  the  time. " 

At  the  entrance  of  the  Cathedral,  the  beggars  asking 
alms  reminded  us  of  the  description  of  similar  scenes  at 
the  gate  of  the  Temple  in  the  Savior's  time.  A  blind 
man  standing  by  the  door  called  loudly  upon  the  passers- 
by  to  have  pity  on  him,  a  cripple  seated  on  the  steps 
with  rough  crooked  crutches  by  his  side  stretched  out 
his  hand  for  aid,  and  a  fat  dirty  woman  with  a  tiny 


(36i) 


362  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

babe  in  her  arms  whiningly  cried,  "poveretta  mia! 
poveretta  mia!" 

The  regular  services  in  the  Cathedral  were  over  when 
we  entered,  but  many  people  were  in  the  building. 
Some  were  in  silent  adoration  before  the  Cross  at  the  mag- 
nificent high  altar;  some  were  worshiping  at  the  foot  of 
the  Virgin,or  praying  at  the  shrines  of  the  saints;  others 
were  contritely  kneeling  at  the  confessional  boxes  with 
faces  close  to  the  little  grated  windows,  whispering 
deeds  of  misdoing  to  the  confessor  within  and  awaiting 
the  father's  words  of  penance  or  of  absolution.  We 
followed  a  crowd  of  Italians  who  were  going  into  a 
chapel  at  the  side  where  preparations  were  being  made 
for  a  special  service.  There  being  no  pews  or  sittings 
in  the  chapel,  but  a  few  plain  chairs  for  hire,  we 
paid  the  verger  two  cents  for  the  use  of  a  chair  and 
waited.  Wooden  benches  were  placed  in  line  to  form 
an  aisle  and  a  number  of  women  and  children  knelt 
at  the  benches,  each  holding  a    large    unlighted  candle. 

A  cardinal  in  a  red  robe  came  down  the  aisle,  ac- 
companied by  a  surpliced  acolyte  bearing  a  cup  of  oil. 
As  the  cardinal  passed  each  kneeling  person,  he  dipped 
his  thumb  into  the  oil  and  then,  repeating  a  formula, 
made  a  sign  of  the  cross  with  his  thumb  on  the  worship- 
er's forehead.  A  priest  in  black  cassock  and  a  chorister 
in  white  followed  the  cardinal,  the  priest  wiping  the 
foreheads  with  a  piece  of  cotton  and  the  chorister  taking 
the  candles  which  were  handed  to  him  as  offerings  to 
the  church. 

The  doors  of  the  magnificently  adorned  Cathedral 
were  open  to  rich  and  poor  alike ;  but  the  poor   were 


NAPLES  AND  POMPEII.  363 

in  the  majority,  and  among  them  appeared  such  cases 
of  slovenly  poverty  as  we  had  not  seen  elsewhere, 
not  even  in  Jerusalem  or  Constantinople,  for  in  the  Mos- 
lem cities  fountains  were  at  the  gates  of  the  mosques 
and  no  worshiper  entered  the  sacred  edifice  with  soiled 
hands  or  feet.  Three  cases  of  slovenliness  we  noted  par- 
ticularly. A  woman  of  middle  age,  with  tangled  hair, 
torn,  untidy  dress  and  soiled,  stockingless  feet  par- 
tially covered  by  dilapidated  slippers,  was  violating  the 
rules  of  the  church  by  sidling  up  to  strangers  and 
stealthily  begging  within  the  building;  a  boy,  probably 
sixteen  years  of  age,  hatless,  shoeless,  coatless,  with 
pantaloons  in  need  of  patches  and  body  in  need  of 
soap,  stood  gazing  curiously  at  the  ceremony;  and  a 
man  whose  whole  attire  consisted  of  a  ragged  shirt  and 
cotton  trousers,  with  marks  of  grime  on  hands,  neck, 
and  face,  leaned  carelessly  against  a  pillar  with  bare  feet 
thrust  forward.  But  these  were  extreme  and  exceptional 
cases  of  untidiness,  the  worshipers  generally  being  neatly 
clad  and  careful  of  their  personal  appearance. 

The  military  band  was  playing  on  a  platform  when 
we  visited  the  park  and  the  paths  and  the  grass  plats 
were  filled  with  people,  many  standing  and  a  few  seated 
on  chairs.  Noticing  some  unoccupied  chairs,  we  sat  down 
to  listen  to  the  music  and  watch  the  life  and  movement 
of  a  Neapolitan  crowd.  We  had  scarcety  taken  our 
places  when  a  w^oman  w4th  a  badge  and  a  bag  ap- 
proached, demanding  ten  centessimi  for  each  seat. 
"Gratia!"  she  said  when  paid,  and  "Gratia!"  we  re- 
sponded, grateful  for  a  comfortable  resting  place. 

"I  thought,  before  we  started  on  this  trip,  that  sight- 


364  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

seeing  prolonged  day  after  day  might  become  monot- 
onous and  that  I  might  lose  interest,"  remarked  one  of 
the  group  seated  on  the  chairs,  "but,  on  the  contrary, 
I  find  continual  variety.  Our  drive  through  the  beauti- 
ful residence  section  and  suburbs  on  the  heights  this 
morning  was  charming,  and  the  extensive  landscape 
and  marine  view  from  the  Convent  of  Camaldoli  is 
unsurpassed,  save  by  the  view  from  Mustapha  Supe- 
rieur.  Each  place  visited  has  differed  so  thoroughly 
from  all  the  others  that  my  interest  is  as  intense  now  as 
when  we  landed  at  fascinating  Funchal. " 

"In  each  city  I  am  compelled  to  replenish  my  stock 
of  films;  I  find  so  many  pleasing  subjects,"  replied  an 
artist  who  always  had  his  camera  with  him.  "  Did  you 
see  those  women  on  the  hillside  road  at  Capri  carrying 
wine  kegs  on  their  heads?  They  posed  for  me  to  take 
a  picture  of  the  group.  It  was  not  necessary  to  tell 
them  to  look  pleasant ;  every  face  wore  a  smile.  I  am 
sorry  that  my  kodak  does  not  reproduce  colors.  The 
dresses  of  the  women,  though  worn  and  faded,  were 
very  picturesque  in  their  combinations  of  scarlets,  blues, 
and  yellows. " 

"And  I  regret  that  cameras  cannot  reproduce  the 
beautiful  azure  and  silver  tints  of  the  interior  of  the 
Blue  Grotto  just  as  we  saw  it  yesterday,  "  said  one  of  the 
ladies  who  was  collecting  photographs  and  postal  cards. 
"I  want  a  good  picture  of  the  Grotto  Azzurra  but  I 
cannot  find  one.  Those  that  are  offered  for  sale  are 
such  poor  imitations. " 

After  the  concert  was  over,  we  entered  the  salt  water 
aquarium  of  Naples,  which  is  famous  throughout  Europe 


NAPLES  AND  POMPEII.    '  365 

as  the  finest  and  largest  ichthyological  collection  in  the 
world.  In  the  glass  tanks  curious  sea  fish  darted 
through  the  water,  grotesque  sea  monsters  crawled 
over  the  pebbles,  and  transparent  jelly  fish  floated 
slowly;  pink  and  white  sea  anemones,  like  a  bed  of 
flowers,  opened  and  closed,  and  diminutive  sea  animals, 
almost  invisible,  spread  thread-like  tentacles;  sponges 
and  coral  grew  upon  the  rocks,  and  mollusks  showed  by 
their  movements  that  they  had  life. 

One  evening  we  drove  to  the  suburban  village  of 
Posilipo  and  from  the  cliffs  at  that  place  saw  the  sun 
descend  in  glory,  a  golden  ball  dropping  into  a  radiant 
sea.  While  we  were  returning,  a  picturesque  beggar 
with  a  crooked  stick  and  one  string  across  it  trotted 
alongside  our  carriage,  trying  to  convince  us  that  he  was 
a  musician  and  his  music  worth  a  penny.  At  dusk,  an 
Italian  boy  ran  alongside  the  carriage,  opened  and  lit 
the  carriage  lamps  while  the  horse  was  moving  at  a  rapid 
gait,  and  asked  for  payment. 

Naples  is  a  city  of  striking  contrasts.  It  was  inter- 
esting to  study  them.  We  drove  over  well  paved  streets, 
admiring  marble  palaces,  great  hotels,  and  beautiful 
homes ;  but  with  feelings  very  different  from  admiration 
we  walked  through  narrow,  filthy  thoroughfares,  densely 
populated,  where  networks  of  clothes  lines  with  gar- 
ments of  all  colors  hung  overhead.  We  saw  high- 
spirited  horses  and  superb  carriages  in  the  avenues  and 
parks,  and  teams -of  handsome  cream-colored  oxen  in 
the  suburbs:  but  we  saw  also  in  the  highways,  small, 
rough-coated  donkeys  overburdened  with  panniers  of 
fruit;  tall,    bony    horses    mismatched    with    diminutive 


366 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


donkeys ;  incongruous  teams  composed  of  a  cow  and  a 
donkey,  or  a  large  ox  and  a  small  cow;  and  a  team  even 
more  grotesquely  made  up  of  a  horse,  a  cow,  and  a 
donkey.  We  saw  the  elite  of  the  city  elegantly  dressed 
in  the  latest  fashion  promenading  in  the  shopping  dis- 
tricts ;  but  on  the  sidewalks  of  the  tenement  district  we 
saw  slovenly  barefooted  women  washing  clothes,  cook- 
ing maccaroni,  scrubbing  children  in  a  tub,  and  comb- 
ing children's  hair  with  fine  combs,  regardless  of  our 
curious  gaze.     Here,  too,  we  saw  boys,  apparently  eight 


PEASANT    GIRLS    THEIR    BURDENS    BEAR. 

or  ten  years  of  age,  playing  in  the  streets  with  no  other 
clothing  than  a  shirt  reaching  to  the  knees,  and  women 
peddlers  of  mineral  water  dressed  in  ragged  red  blouses 
and  blue  skirts,  who,  with  disordered  hair  and  stocking- 
less,  slipshod  feet,  shuffled  by  pushing  hand-carts  filled 
with  earthen  jugs. 

On  the  avenues  street  peddlers  besought  us  to  purchase 
canes,  matches,  coral  beads,  and  souvenirs  cut  out  of 
lava,  but  asked  prices  four  or  five  times  their  actual 


(367) 


368  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT, 

value.  On  the  narrow  streets  dealers  in  cooked  viands 
for  the  home  trade  did  an  active  business  at  low  prices, 
but  did  not  think  it  worth  while  to  offer  us  the  hot 
potatoes,  maccaroni,  fried  fish,  and  stewed  meats  which 
they  prepared  on  little  sidewalk  stoves. 

The  trip  from  Naples  to  Pompeii  was  made  by  rail  in 
less  than  an  hour.  At  the  gates  of  the  enclosure  we  each 
paid  an  admission  fee  of  two  lire,  or  forty  cents,  and 
official  guides  were  assigned  to  conduct  the  party  through 
the  streets  of  the  excavated  city. 

"About  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,"  explained 
the  guide,  "a  farmer  ploughed  up  some  objects  of  art  in 
this  locality.  The  government,  hearing  of  the  discovery, 
ordered  investigation  to  be  made.  Removal  of  the  soil 
disclosed  a  house  and  furniture  and  articles  of  value. 
The  excavations,  carried  on  irregularly  for  a  century, 
then  continued  regularly  but  slowly  for  the  past  fifty 
years  and  still  in  progress,  revealed  the  ancient  city  that 
had  been  smothered  in  ashes  and  buried  from  sight  for 
eighteen  hundred  years.  The  wooden  roofs,  crushed  in 
by  the  weight  above  them,  had  crumbled  into  dust,  but 
the  walls  and  columns,  the  altars  and  statues,  the  foun- 
tains and  baths,  the  paved  streets  and  mosaic  pavements, 
and  the  frescoes  on  the  walls  had  been  preserved  by  the 
covering  of  ashes,  and  were  in  almost  as  good  condition 
as  when  deserted  by  the  terror-stricken  inhabitants.  All 
articles  of  value,  as  soon  as  found  by  the  excavators, 
were  carried  away  to  the  museums  and  carefully  pre- 
served ;  but  the  uncovered  walls  were  left  exposed  to  the 
weather,  and,  as  you  will  see,  are  badly  damaged  and 
defaced.     The  government  for  the  past  few  years,  how- 


NAPLES  AND  POMPEII. 


369 


ever,  has  been  protecting  the  newly  excavated  build- 
ings by  enclosing  and  roofing  them  over,  and  in  these 
we  shall  find  the  beautiful  Pompeian  red  and  blue  colors 
and  the  dainty  frescoes  well  preserved  on  the  walls. " 

This  ancient  city  of  probably  only  twenty-five  thous- 
and inhabitants  had  improvements  that  we  now  des- 
ignate as  modern.     The  streets,  just  wide  enough  for 


BEARING    PANNIERS    OF    KRL'ITS    AND    VEGETABLES. 

one  wagon  track  with  narrow  footways  on  each  side, 
were  paved  with  square  flat  stones  in  which  the  chariots 
had  cut  deep  wheel  ruts.  The  public  baths  had  separate 
rooms  for  men  and  women,  exercise  courts,  sweating 
rooms,  furnace  heat,  hot  baths,  cold  baths,  capacious 
marble  plunge  tanks,  and  cooling  rooms  in  which  the 
bathers,  cleansed,  oiled,  and  perfumed,  could  rest  after 

34 


370  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

the  bath.  The  water  supply  was  distributed  through 
the  city  in  the  same  manner  as  in  our  own  cities.  Lead 
water  pipes  conducted  the  water  through  streets  and 
into  buildings.  Bronze  stopcocks  governed  the  foun- 
tains, and  bronze  inlets  and  outlets  regulated  the  supply 
at  the  marble  baths. 

"The  Pompeian  plumbers  used  good  material  and  did 
good  work,"  commented  a  manufacturer  after  examin- 
ing   the    plumbing. 

"If  I  could  produce  paints  that  would  endure  for 
centuries,  and  have  them  laid  on  as  the  Pompeian  artists 
applied  them,  my  fortune  would  soon  be  made,"  re- 
marked another,  who  had  been  impressed  particularly 
by  the  brightness  of  the  red  and  blue  on  the  walls  of  the 
House  of  Sallust.  "But,"  he  added,  "the  secret  of 
making  paint  that  will  endure  the  ravages  of  time  has 
been  lost. " 

In  a  baker's  shop  we  saw  four  small  stone  mills  in 
which  grain  had  been  converted  to  flour  by  hand  power, 
the  stones  having  been  revolved  by  means  of  long  wooden 
handles.  Near  the  mills  was  an  oven  similar  to  those 
of  the  present  time. 

"In  this  oven  a  number  of  loaves  of  bread  were 
found,"  said  the  guide. 

"Yes,"  answered  one  of  our  party,  "we  saw  fourteen 
loaves  in  the  Museum  of  Naples  yesterday  and  were  told 
that  it  was  the  oldest  bread  in  existence.  The  loaves 
were  well  preserved  in  form  but  were  as  black  as  char- 
coal." 

Our  interest  in  Pompeii  was  heightened  by  our  pre- 
viously having   visited   the    Naples    Museum,  where    a 


NAPLES  AND  POMPEII. 


371 


multitude  of  articles  found  during  the  excavations  were 
on  exhibition.  There  we  had  examined  hundreds  of 
objects  of  art,  marble  statues,  bronze  statues,  mosaics, 
vases,  frescoes,  and  paintings;  we  had  seen  thousands 
of  ornaments  for  personal  adornment,  necklaces,  cameos, 
bracelets,    rings,    chains,    and    toilet    accessories    and 


MADE    A    PICTURE    THAT    PLEASED    THE    ARTIST. 

had  looked  at  numberless  articles  for  household  use,  such 
as  stoves,  lamps,  dishes,  and  kitchen  utensils.  Even  food 
was  not  lacking  in  the  exhibition,  being  represented  by 
olives  in  a  jar,  oil  in  bottles,  charred  walnuts,  almonds, 
figs,  wheat,  and  eggs.  These  things,  abandoned  by  the 
fugitives  in  their  wild  flight,  helped  us  to  imagine  the 


372  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

taste  and  manner  of  living  of  the  Pompeians  before  the 
destruction  of  their  city. 

"This  is  the  Amphitheatre,"  said  the  guide,  as  we 
assembled  around  him  in  the  arena  of  a  large  structure  . 
"Here  fights  between  wild  beasts,  gladiatorial  combats, 
and  other  great  spectacles  took  place.  Underneath  the 
seats  on  one  side  are  the  dens  where  the  lions  and  tigers 
were  kept  in  a  starving  condition  to  make  them  fero- 
cious, and  underneath  on  the  other  side  are  the  dun- 
geons where  prisoners  were  confined  until  forced  into 
the  arena  to  meet  the  wild  beasts.  On  the  hill  nearby 
are  the  barracks  where  the  gladiators  lived  and  trained 
for  combats.  An  announcement  of  an  oldtime  enter- 
tainment remains  inscribed  on  one  of  the  stone  walls. 
It  reads  as  follows: 

Twenty  pairs  of  gladiators,  at  the  expense  of  Decimus,  a 
priest,  and  ten  pairs  of  gladiators,  at  the  expense  of  Lucretius, 
will  fight  at  Pompeii  on  the  eleventh  of  April.  There  will  te  a 
complete  hunting  scene,  and  the  awnings  will  be  spread. 

Another  inscription  on  the  wall  stated: 

On  the  dedication  of  the  baths,  at  the  expense  of  Mains, 
there  will  be  a  hunt,  athletic  sports,  showering  of  perfumes, 
etc.,  at  the  Amphitheatre. 

"There  was  also  a  Tragic  Theatre  in  Pompeii,"  con- 
tinued the  guide.  "It  was  reserved  for  dramatic  per- 
formances. The  stone  tiers  seated  an  audience  of  five 
thousand.  The  Amphitheatre  and  the  Tragic  were 
open  to  the  sky,  but  both  were  provided  with  awnings 
that  could  be  spread  above  the  seats  to  protect  the 
people  from  the  sun.  " 


(373) 


374  ^   T^RIP   ^0  THE  ORIENT. 

Almost  all  of  us  had  read  Bulwer-Lytton's  novel, 
"The  Last  Days  of  Pompeii,"  and  were  familiar  with 
his  vivid  description  of  the  fearful  eruption  of  Vesuvius 
which  overwhelmed  the  city  in  the  year  A.  D.  79, — ^the 
darkness,  the  terror  of  the  people,  the  hasty  flight,  the 
roar  of  explosions,  the  volcanic  lightnings,  the  scorching 
ashes,  the  sulphurous  fumes,  and  the  hot  rain.  Very 
interesting  to  us  were  the  places  described  by  Bulwer 
in  his  novel;  the  dwelling  of  the  magistrate  Pansa,  the 
villa  of  the  wealthy  Diomede  where  eighteen  skeletons 
surrounded  by  provisions  and  jewels  had  been  found, 
the  house  of  the  poet  Glaucus  whose  threshold  was 
guarded  by  the  mosaic  of  a  chained  dog  with  the  now 
well  known  motto  'Cave  Canem'  or  'Beware  of  the  Dog. ' 
Most  interesting,  perhaps,  was  the  Temple  of  Isis,  in 
which  the  most  exciting  incidents  of  Bulwer 's  novel 
took  place.  There  the  guide  showed  us  the  altar,  the 
well,  the  secret  stairway,  the  platform  from  which  the 
oracle  spoke,  and  the  spot  where  the  skeleton  of  the 
priest  with  an  ax  was  found. 

"Broken  columns  and  ruined  walls  are  all  that  remain 
of  the  grandeur  of  the  Forum,"  explained  the  guide  as 
he  led  the  way  through  a  triumphal  arch  into  a  large 
area.  "These  extensive  marble-paved  floors  were  once 
decorated  with  statues  of  the  illustrious  men  of  Pompeii." 

"The  Forum  was  a  bustling  place,"  he  continued,  as 
we  stood  in  the  centre  of  the  area.  "In  the  open  court 
the  people  met  to  exchange  opinions  and  obtain  the 
news.  On  the  porticoes  the  money  changers  made 
loans  and  the  brokers  sold  real  estate  and  grain.  It  was 
the  poUtical  center  of  the  city.     Here  the  magistrates 


(375) 


376  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

administered  justice.  Here  the  populace  met  with  joy- 
ful acclamations  to  raise  a  favorite  to  power,  and  here, 
too,  angry  mobs  gathered  to  compel  an  offending  ruler 
to  vacate  his  office.  It  was  the  religious  centre  as  well ; 
for  adjoining  the  Forum  are  the  ruins  of  the  Temple 
of  Mercury,  the  Temple  of  Venus,  the  Temple  of  Jupiter, 
and  the  Temple  of  Augustus." 

When  we  were  ready  to  leave  Pompeii,  after  a  tramp 
through  other  streets  and  a  visit  to  the  Museum,  the 
subject  of  giving  a  fee  to  the  guide  was  considered.  At 
the  gate  when  entering  we  had  read  a  notice  stating  that 
guides  furnished  by  the  government  were  not  permitted 
to  accept  fees  from  visitors.  The  guide  assigned  to  us, 
however,  had  been  very  obliging  and  had  given  much 
interesting  information.  Appreciating  this  we  slipped 
into  his  hand  secretly  at  parting  a  token  of  our  good  will. 
"Gratia!  Gratia!"  very  heartity  he  responded,  assuring 
us  that  our  gift,  the  forbidden,  was  acceptable. 

After  returning  from  Pompeii  to  our  steamship  we 
found  that  although  the  evening  hours  had  arrived,  the 
harbor  was  still  a  scene  of  animation.  Scores  of  Italian 
stevedores  were  carrying  baskets  of  coal  on  their 
shoulders  from  barges  into  the  bunkers  of  the  Moltke. 
Near  by  other  laborers  were  hoisting  crates  of  lemons 
and  oranges  and  lowering  them  into  the  hold  of  an 
English  steamer.  A  little  rowboat  with  a  stove  on 
board  was  running  a  brisk  restaurant  business,  selling 
bread,  coffee,  fried  eggs,  fried  potatoes,  and  fried  fish 
to  boatmen  and  laborers,  who  managed  to  devour  the 
viands  without  assistance  of  plate,  knife,  or  fork. 

Alongside  our  steamer  a  number  of  boys  in  a  rowboat 


NAPLES  AND  POMPEII.  377 

were  making  a  distracting  noise  with  tin  pans  and  crude 
instruments,  looking  up  in  the  hope  that  some  one  would 
pay  them  for  creating  a  disturbance.  In  another  boat, 
gaily  attired  Neapolitan  musicians  played  and  sang 
popular  airs  in  a  pleasing  way  that  drew  coins  from  the 
pockets  of  the  hearers.  At  the  close  of  each  piece  of 
music  one  of  the  women  held  a  spread  umbrella  upside 
down  to  catch  the  coppers  that  were  dropped  into  it 
from  the  deck  thirty  feet  above. 

"The  daylight  ends  too  soon,"  regretfully  observed 
one  of  our  party,  an  artist  of  considerable  reputation, 
who,  seated  in  his  favorite  nook  near  the  stern,  was 
endeavoring  to  complete  his  color  notes  and  sketches 
of  the  picturesque  scenes  before  the  darkness  hid  them 
from  view.  "But  the  sky  above  the  mountain  is 
reddening  and  the  glow  of  Vesuvius  will  give  me  work 
for  to-night. " 


CHAPTER  XVII. 
NICE  AND  MENTONE. 

THROUGHOUT  the  cruise  to  the  Orient,  up  to  the 
time  of  departure  from  Naples,  our  party  of 
tourists  had  the  great  steamer  to  themselves, 
there  being  no  other  passengers  on  board.  At  Naples, 
however,  a  change  took  place.  As  the  Steamship 
Company  granted  us  the  privilege  of  remaining  over 
in  Europe  and  returning  later  in  the  season  in  some 
other  steamer  of  the  same  line,  a  large  number  of  the 
tourists  left  the  Moltke  at  Naples  for  side  trips  on  the 
Continent,  and  many  more  intended  to  leave  at  Nice; 
so  that  not  more  than  one-fourth  of  the  original  number 
was  booked  to  return  direct  from  Nice  to  New  York. 
During  the  time  our  steamer  lay  at  Naples  a  cargo  of 
freight  was  taken  on  board,  and  on  the  day  of  departure 
one  thousand  steerage  passengers  ascended  the  gang- 
way, some  with  valises  of  curious  shape,  a  few  dragging 
trunks,  but  the  greater  number  with  all  their  posses- 
sions in  bags  or  bundles. 

At  ten  o'clock  on  the  night  of  March  thirtieth,  we 
stood  at  the  rail  watching  the  lights  on  the  shore  gradu- 
ally disappearing  from  sight  as  the  Moltke  steamed 
away  from  the  harbor. 

"What  must  be  the  thoughts  of  these  Neapolitan 
exiles  as  they  sail  away  from  'Sunny  Italy, '  their  place 
of  birth,  their  homeland,  and  their  friends?"  mused  my 

(378) 


NICE  AND  MENTONE. 


379 


friend,   referring   to   the   emigrants   gazing   farewell   to 
their  native  land. 

"There  is  sadness  in  their  hearts,  for  their  faces  and 
attitudes  show  it,"  said  he,  answering  his  own  question. 
"Some  of  the  women  are  shedding  tears.  But  they  are 
all   hopeful.     They   have   heard  that   in   the   promised 


MANY   CLOTHES-LINES    WERE  FILLED. 

land  there  is  plenty  of  work,  high  wages,  enough  to  eat, 
and,  what  is  far  better,  opportunity  to  rise.  In  Italy 
there  is  scarcity  of  work,  low  wages,  a  chunk  of  black 
bread,  and  nothing  better  to  look  forward  to  in  the 
future. " 


38o  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"You  are  right,  young  man,  there  is  something  to 
look  forward  to  in  America,  an  opportunity  to  rise  in  the 
world,"  said  a  fellow  tourist,  well  known  as  a  man  of 
wealth  and  distinction.  "I  can  symphathize  with  these 
poor  people  who  are  seeking  to  better  their  condition. 
Thirty  years  ago  I  was  a  poor  man,  leaving  Europe  in 
the  steerage  as  an  emigrant  to  the  land  of  promise.  I 
worked  my  way  to  the  West,  became  a  miner,  and  met 
with  success. " 

"To  reach  America  appears  to  be  the  desire  of  many 
in  Itaty,"  remarked  another.  "In  the  elevator  of  one 
of  the  hotels  in  Naples  I  found  the  elevator  boy  studying 
an  English  spelling  book.  He  said,  'I  am  going  to 
America  as  soon  as  I  have  money  enough;  there  is  a 
chance  for  me  to  become  something  if  I  can  get  to  New 
York. '  A  cab  driver  asked  me  if  I  knew  his  cousin  in 
Chicago.  'My  cousin,'  said  he,  'saved  enough  money 
to  buy  a  third-class  passage  to  New  York.  That  was 
just  three  years  ago.  Now  he  is  sending  money  home  to 
his  friends  to  take  them  over.  He  must  be  doing  well. 
We  never  have  any  money  to  give  away. '  Money  to 
spare  for  his  friends!  That  told  the  cabman  the  story 
of  a  golden  land.  " 

On  Tuesday,  as  we  sailed  northward,  we  passed  the 
island  of  Elba,  on  which  the  banished  Napoleon  re- 
mained ten  months  after  his  abdication.  We  endeavor- 
ed to  recall  the  history  of  the  events  that  preceded 
the  great  Emperor's  first  downfall;  the  campaign  in 
Russia,  the  burning  of  Moscow,  the  winter  retreat,  the 
depletion  of  the  grand  army  by  frost  and  hunger.  But 
when  the  little  island  of  Monte  Cristo  came  in  sight, 


NICE  AND  MENTONE.  381 

memory  brought  to  mind  pleasanter  recollections, — 
Dumas'  story  of  the  "The  Count  of  Monte  Cristo,"  so 
wonderful  in  our  youthful  days,  Edmond  Dantes' 
escape  from  the  dungeon,  the  cave  on  the  island,  and  the 
fabulous  wealth  concealed  therein. 

On  the  day  of  arrival  at  Nice,  hundreds  of  owners  of 
automobiles  from  all  parts  of  Europe  were  assembled 
in  that  city  for  trials  of  speed;  the  morning  races  had 
taken  place  and  the  dust-covered  racers  were  just  com- 
ing in  from  their  fast  runs.  On  the  way  to  the  hotel  we 
saw  an  automobile  run  over  one  man  and  knock  another 
down.  An  excited  French  woman  who  was  rolled  over 
in  the  dust  but  not  injured  followed  the  offending  car 
to  the  garage  with  tongue,  hands,  and  arms  all  in  rapid 
motion.  She  was  giving  the  chauffeur  a  tongue-lashing 
and  calling  his  attention  to  her  soiled  clothing.  Her 
tirade  prompted  the  chauffeur  to  draw  some  coins  from 
his  pocket  and  place  them  in  her  hand,  and  then  her  hurt 
feelings  apparently  were  quickly  relieved. 

Nice  has  a  dehghtful  climate.  It  is  protected  from 
the  cold  winds  of  the  north  by  hills  and  mountains 
and  fanned  by  the  mild  breezes  of  the  sea.  Royalty, 
beauty,  and  wealth  make  their  abode  in  this  favorite 
resort  on  the  shore  of  the  Mediterranean  during  the 
winter  season,  and  English  lords,  French  counts,  Russian 
princes,  German  barons,  and  American  millionaries  so- 
journ at  the  magnificent  hotels  or  reside  in  beautiful 
villas. 

The  season  of  gaiety  was  just  closing  when  we  arrived 
and  the  hotels  were  not  crowded,  yet  there  was  much 
to  see.     It  was  a  pleasure  to  drive  on  the  clean,  well- 


382  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

paved  avenues,  which  are  shaded  by  great  trees  and 
lined  with  handsome  homes  and  white  stone  hotels, 
passing  lawns  and  gardens  filled  with  palms,  roses, 
choice  flowers,  and  blooming  vines.  It  was  interesting 
to  stroll  along  the  sea  front  for  two  or  three  miles  on  a 
stone  pavement  fifty  feet  wide,  the  popular  promenade 
of  the  city,  with  the  waves  of  the  blue  sea  rolling  almost 
to  your  feet  on  one  side  and  the  wide  avenue  filled 
with  handsome  teams  and  motor-cars  of  every  descrip- 
tion on  the  other.  It  was  entertaining  to  secure  a 
chair  in  the  park  during  the  afternoon  concert, 
and,  comfortably  seated,  listen  to  the  military  band, 
admire  the  gowns  of  the  French  women,  and  note  the 
variety  of  uniforms  worn  by  the  French  ofificers.  Those 
afternoons  in  the  park  were  very  restful  for  there  was  no 
hurry  nor  confusion  nor  crying  of  wares  for  sale,  and  the 
balmy  sea  breeze  had  a  soothing  effect  on  the  nerves. 

The  weather  was  delightful  and  the  air  pure  and  clear 
when,  on  the  morning  of  April  fourth,  a  party  of  sixteen 
filled  the  seats  of  a  four -horse  drag  for  a  drive  from 
Nice  to  Mentone  over  the  famous  Corniche  road,  a  round 
trip  of  over  forty  miles,  noted  as  one  of  the  finest  drives 
in  Europe.  We  had  decided  to  go  to  Mentone  over  the 
Upper  Corniche  road,  which  winds  among  the  moun- 
tains, and  return  by  the  Lower  Corniche  road,  which 
follows  the  shores  of  the  sea. 

Our  driver  snapped  his  long-lashed  whip  and  the 
horses  started  off  as  gaily  as  if  they  shared  our  exuberant 
spirits. 

"That  is  the  river  Paillon,"  said  the  driver,  pointing 
to  a  diminutive  stream  in  the  midst  of  a  wide  stony  bed. 


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384  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

"The  river  has  very  httle  water  in  it  now,  but  when  the 
snow  melts  in  the  mountains  it  becomes  a  torrent. " 

The  Httle  stream  had  a  peaceful  look.  Many  washer- 
women were  busily  at  work  along  its  banks,  many  clothes 
lines  were  filled  with  drying  garments,  and  sheets  were 
bleaching  on  the  stones.  A  number  of  red  objects  in 
the  distance  proved,  as  we  drew  nearer,  to  be  a  company 
of  red-trousered  French  soldiers  washing  their  linen  in 
the  stream.  Another  company  in  red  trousers  and 
white  shirts  marched  by  us,  carrying  their  bundles  to 
the  river.  After  leaving  the  river  we  passed  an  immense 
public  wash  trough  where  forty  women  were  washing 
clothes  and  apparently  having  a  social  time.  There  was 
room  at  the  trough  for  double  that  number. 

The  macadamized  road  winding  up  the  mountain  side 
in  easy  grades,  supported  at  many  places  by  walls  of 
substantial  masonry,  was  in  perfect  condition.  Oc- 
casionally as  our  team  moved  slowly  upward  we  heard 
the  "honk,  honk"  of  a  horn  and  a  racing  automobile 
making  a  time  record  flew  swiftly  by  and  was  soon  out 
of  sight,  or  rushing  down  grade  around  sharp  curves 
at  tremendous  speed  toward  us  caused  some  hearts  in 
our  coach  to  palpitate  in  anxiety  until  the  racer  had 
safely  passed. 

"At  this  spot  a  Russian  Count  and  his  friend  were 
killed  on  the  morning  of  the  races,"  said  our  driver  as 
we  rounded  one  particularly  sharp  curve.  "The  count, 
expecting  to  be  a  winner  in  the  race,  was  speeding  his 
motor-car  at  the  rate  of  fifty  miles  an  hour,  when  it 
swerved  against  the  rocks  and  he  and  his  friend  were 
hurled  over  the  wall  and  crushed  to  death." 


25 


(385) 


386  A   TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

As  we  ascended  the  mountains  we  saw  on  the  slopes 
below  us  orchards  of  gray  olive  trees,  in  the  valleys 
orchards  of  dark  green  orange  and  lemon  trees  filled 
with  yellow  fruit,  clean  looking  white  or  yellow  or  pink 
houses  with  red  tile  roofs  dotting  the  landscape,  and  the 
white  stone  Hotel  Regina,  beautiful  for  situation,  stand- 
ing prominent  on  a  summit.  The  rocks  in  the  channel 
of  the  Paillon  appeared  to  be  a  bed  of  pebbles.  In  the 
distance,  to  the  south,  could  be  seen  the  buildings  of  the 
city  we  had  left  and  the  glistening  waters  of  the  sea 
beyond;  on  the  north,  wooded  hills  and  terraced  moun- 
tains ;  and  far  away,  the  snow  covered  summits  of  the 
Alps.  While  we  gazed  at  one  of  these  scenes  of  beauty, 
the  soft  mellow  tones  of  a  convent  bell  came  pleasingly 
to  our  ears. 

"Why  is  it  the  bells  ring  so  sweetly  here?"  inquired 
one  of  the  occupants  of  our  coach.  "It  must  have  been 
melodious  notes  like  these  that  pleased  the  ear  of  the 
poet  Moore. 

At  each  turn  of  the  road  our  point  of  view  changed 
and  the  panorama  unrolled  before  us.  We  looked  down 
upon  a  series  of  beautiful  pictures.  The  Mediterranean 
lay  two  thousand  feet  below  us,  its  surface  reflecting 
every  shade  of  blue  and  green,  its  coast  a  succession  of 
inlets,  bays,  promontories,  and  peninsulas.  White 
roads  winding  among  the  shrubbery  on  the  peninsulas 
looked  like  white  ribbons  on  a  green  background,  the 
red  tiled  houses  like  little  toys,  and  the  harbor  of  Ville 
Franche  like  a  pond  on  which  floated  tiny  boats  that 
a  child  might  play  with. 

-What  a  picturesque  town!"  exlaimed  a  tourist. 


NICE  AND  MENTONE.  387 

"That  is  the  city  of  Eze.  It  is  a  very  old  city,"  said 
the  driver. 

"Perched  among  the  mountains,  with  its  odd  castle 
on  a  detached  hill  top,"  said  one  of  the  tourists  "it  re- 
minds me  of  a  painting  by  one  of  the  old  masters. 
Cimabue,  I  think,  or  Perugino.  I  cannot  remember 
which.  I  am  constantly  regretting  while  traveling 
abroad  that  we  are  not  more  proficient  in  history  and  art. 
While  the  professor  and  the  artist  were  with  the  party 
we  could  turn  to  them  for  information.  But  now  we 
must  depend  upon  ourselves." 

"Not  necessarily,"  replied  another,  "for  we  have 
Baedeker  and  the  guides;  and  there  are  the  drivers, 
too,  to  call  upon  when  they  can  understand  our  English 
or  we  can  understand  their  French." 

For  some  distance  beyond  Eze  the  road  followed  the 
side  of  rugged  limestone  cliffs  surmounted  by  fortifica- 
tions and  signal  stations.  At  the  old,  queer-looking 
town  of  La  Turbie,  while  the  horses  rested  for  an  hour, 
we  selected  postal  cards  and  took  kodak  views.  Soon 
after  leaving  La  Turbie,  while  descending  the  mountain, 
we  looked  down  upon  the  little  principality  of  Monaco, 
its  capital,  the  city  of  Monaco,  the  palace  of  the  Prince 
built  upon  a  rocky  promontory,  and  the  white  buildings 
of  Monte  Carlo. 

Mentone  is  a  popular  winter  resort  on  the  Mediter- 
ranean with  handsome  houses  and  flower-filled  gardens. 
Vineyards  and  groves  of  orange,  lemon,  and  fig  trees, 
cover  the  hillsides  surrounding  the  city.  We  lunched  in 
Mentone,  and  were  entertained  under  the  palm  trees 
of  the  hotel  garden  by  a  band  of  Italian  musicians,  one 


388 


A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 


of  whom,  an  amusing  character  actor  as  well  as  singer, 
responded  cheerfully  to  our  requests  for  special  selections 
and  solos. 

Our  return  from  Mentone  to  Nice  was  through  a  suc- 
cession of  towns  and  villages.  Along  this  coast  road 
are  many  white  hotels,   comfortable-looking  villas,  and 


THROUGH     THE    PARK    THAT    SURROUNDS    THE    CASINO. 

trimly  kept  lawns.  In  the  gardens  there  were  century 
plants,  orange,  lemon,  and  palm  trees,  and  rose  bushes 
of  great  size  covered  with  bloom.  On  the  tops  of  the 
garden  walls,  plants  of  various  kinds  were  growing. 
Some  of  the  walls  were  covered  with  long  clusters  of 


NICE  AND  MENTONE.  389 

pink  geraniuiTLs,  some  gracefully  festooned  with  masses 
of  overhanging  heliotrope,  and  others  draped  with 
trailing  vines  aglow  with  scarlet  bloom.  The  exuberant 
growth  and  bloom  of  these  flowers  attracted  much 
attention  and  drew  forth  exclamations  of  delight. 

"Did  you  ever  see  geraniums  and  heliotropes  growing 
in  such  luxuriance?"  asked  one  of  the  ladies. 

"Only  in  my  own  state,"  replied  a  Calif omian. 
"There  the  plants  grow  to  immense  size  and  bloom  in 
profusion." 

"Do  not  forget  charming  Funchal,"  said  another. 
"Remember  that  there  we  saw  geraniums  and  fuschias 
of  wonderful  size,  and  vines  of  pink  bouguainvillia  that 
covered  the  mountain-side  cottages." 

At  Monte  Carlo,  as  we  drove  through  the  park  that 
surrounds  the  white  marble  gambling  jjalace,  we  ad- 
mired the  magnificent  parterres  of  flowers,  the  beds  of 
pansies  being  especially  beautiful  in  variety  of  color  and 
size  of  the  flowers.  On  the  piazza  of  the  Caf^  de  Paris, 
where  a  band  was  playing,  we  had  afternoon  tea  and 
from  there  watched  the  throng  of  visitors  who  were 
moving  along  the  palm-lined  paths  or  were  ascending 
or  descending  the  marble  steps  of  the  Casino. 

"Is  there  a  charge  for  admittance? "  we  inquired  of  the 
guard  at  the  entrance  of  the  white  palace. 

" No, "  he  replied.  "Present  your  visiting  card  at  the 
desk  of  the  Secretary  in  the  corridor.  He  will  approve. 
Then,  after  you  have  registered  your  name,  a  card  of 
admission  will  be  given  you." 

In  the  decorated  rooms  where  the  games  of  chance 
were  in  operation,  many  handsomely  gowned  women  and 


3  90  A  TRIP  TO  THE  ORIENT. 

well-dressed  men  were  moving  from  place  to  place  con- 
versing in  quiet  tones,  but  crowds  were  centered  around 
the  roulette  tables,  where  the  chairs  were  all  occupied 
and  many  people  were  standing.  We  joined  the  throng 
around  one  of  these  and  saw  that  the  table  was  divided 
into  numbered  spaces,  some  colored  red  and  some  black. 
In  the  centre  of  the  table  was  a  little  wheel  with  spaces 
to  correspond  in  number  and  color  to  those  on  the  table. 
The  stakes  were  silver  five  franc  pieces,  one  or  more. 
No  other  coins  nor  bills  were  permitted  on  the  table. 

"I  will  try  it,"  said  one  of  our  party  after  watching 
the  game  awhile.  "I  will  place  a  five  franc  on  number 
seven  black. " 

The  table  was  dotted  with  silver  coins.  The  croupier 
touched  a  spring  that  sent  a  small  ball  spinning  around 
the  wheel.     The  ball  stopped  in  space  three  red. 

"Three  red  wins,"  announced  the  croupier. 

A  woman  with  gray  hair  and  large  diamonds  in  her 
ears  picked  up  her  winnings  and  added  them  to  the 
stack  of  silver  on  the  table  in  front  of  her,  and  the 
croupiers  with  wooden  rakes  raked  in  scores  of  coins 
that  had  been  laid  on  losing  numbers. 

At  some  of  the  tables  in  the  magnificent  apartments 
of  the  Casino  the  stakes  were  higher,  twenty  franc  gold 
pieces  being  used,  and  at  these  tables,  eager  players, 
infatuated  with  the  game,  hazarded  handfuls  of  gold  on 
the  turn  of  the  wheel. 

The  chances  to  win  or  lose  appear  to  be  about  even, " 
said  the  Californian.  "They  must,  however,  be  in 
favor  of  the  Casino;  for  the  company  requires  a  large 
income   to   meet   the    enormous    expenses   incurred   in 


(39i) 


392  A    TRIP  rO  THE  ORIENT. 

keeping  up  this  handsome  palace  and  grounds  with 
thousands  of  employees,  croupiers,  guards,  gardeners, 
and  care-takers.  In  addition,  the  company  pays  a 
heavy  tax  to  the  Prince  of  Monaco,  and  yet  is  said  to 
have  large  profit. 

When  our  coach  arrived  at  the  hotel  in  Nice  some  one 
remarked:  "You  appear  to  be  enthusiastic  over  your 
drive."  We  were;  there  was  no  doubt  about  it,  and 
we  might  well  have  added  that  we  were  just  as  well 
pleased  with  the  whole  trip  to  the  Orient.  We  started 
with  great  expectations  and  we  were  not  disappointed. 

At  Nice,  when  the  Moltke  sailed  for  New  York,  we 
parted  with  feelings  of  regret  from  many  pleasant  friends 
and  companions  whose  acquaintance  we  had  made  dur- 
ing the  trip,  and  with  whom  we  had  been  agreeably 
associated  on  sea  and  on  land. 


OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 
on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 

Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


9Jun'6lJLl 


JUN9 


I71T 


k^i^  is  lecaji  «iref  — 


HbCDU)    Pa.27  71  .41^2  7 


'^'»^''»ef 


LD  21A-50w-12,'60 
(B6221sl0)476B 


General  Library 

University  of  California 

Berkeley 


W  UVbfaLi 


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/I 


O^C  Ci 


207385 


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